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These Loving Eyes posted:First of all, what kind of features should I be looking for when deciding what kind of studio headphones I should get? Currently I'm consider getting a pair of Extreme Isolation EX-29s because I find it convenient to be able to block background noises easily (especially when you live with someone). It seems to have the normal frequency rate so are there any other things that could make them a poor choice? Like DeathBySpoon says, the AKG K240 is an excellent choice; more or less the studio standard for headphone monitoring, or at least used to be. An alternative (if they still make them) is the K340, which is easier on the ears for very long sessions.
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Jul 16, 2010 23:14
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DeathBySpoon posted:-Headphones: The problem with closed headphones like that is that they tend to create resonance problems with lower frequencies. Bass comes out way boomier and exaggerated compared to open ear. I've found that background noises really aren't as much of a bother compared to an inaccurate response. I use a pair of these and they are absolutely fantastic: Underflow posted:Like DeathBySpoon says, the AKG K240 is an excellent choice; more or less the studio standard for headphone monitoring, or at least used to be. An alternative (if they still make them) is the K340, which is easier on the ears for very long sessions. Found them for 93 euros on that same site I linked. Guess I'll go with them then.  DeathBySpoon posted:-Keys: Personally, I find that 25 is plenty for me, but I am by no means a pianist or keyboard player. I think that the smaller, the better, because it's more convenient to have it right there on the desk to play around on instead of having to actually sit down at it. I could be totally off here, it's just personal preference. Yeah, I think I'm also going to go with just 25 keys. Also, it'll be easier if I drag my laptop and all the external devices around often. DeathBySpoon posted:-Drums: The Addictive Drums demo has a really good kit and it doesn't expire or add beeps or anything. As far as guitar, samples / synthesized usually isn't recommended, but this is a pretty decent heavy rhythm guitar sample pack: Thanks for the drum link! I remember using Drumkit from Hell around 8 years ago when I was a teenager but that was some  version I got from a friend. Got to try out that Addictive demo though. It looks like that Toontrack (the company behind DKfH) also has a product called EZDrummer which is only 90 euros and at least the demo clips sound decent. Got to have a look at that too then.And yeah, I know synthetisized guitar sucks major balls but since I'll be composing guitar and bass driven music, I'll try to somehow give an idea to the guitarist what I'm after. But well, it isn't the most crucial thing since the actual version will always be recorded with the real thing. DeathBySpoon posted:I hope this helped! It definitely did, thanks!
These Loving Eyes fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 23:21
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Anyone ever used Intune guitar picks? Opinions? 144 picks for 40 dollars (what is that.. like 27 euros or something) seems like a good deal if they're good picks.
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Jul 18, 2010 02:12
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Is there an alternative ($<400 price range) to the Alesis Performance Pad if you need a set of good bouncy stick-use drum pads for midi controls in a compact box? Can't find the regular Control Pad for sale over here in Euro-land, not even used, and the Rolands are outta my league.
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Jul 20, 2010 02:10
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A friend of mine wants to use a Pignose amp as a loud speaker for his MP3 player. Would that work or are there line/speaker level input problems?
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Jul 22, 2010 17:52
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scuz posted:A friend of mine wants to use a Pignose amp as a loud speaker for his MP3 player. Would that work or are there line/speaker level input problems? It'll work, but it'll sound bad. Guitar speakers aren't full-range.
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Jul 22, 2010 20:45
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OK, so I just got a Focusrite Saffire 6 USB audio interface, and it came with Ableton Live Lite 8, which I'm trying to configure. I installed the Saffire drivers from the CD that came with it, and also went to their software support page to get any driver updates, which I also installed. I then plugged in the interface, opened Live, went to preferences and tried to configure it as my audio input source. However, under the "Driver Type" dropdown, the only options are CoreAudio and No Audio, and I've been led to believe that I should be seeing an ASIO option for my Saffire. Basically, I have no way of selecting the Saffire as my actual input/output source, and I'm not really sure why. Doubly strange is that in the "Midi Sync" tab of Live preferences, it seems that the MIDI ports of the Saffire have been recognized. What gives here, why can't I get my Saffire as my input/output source? I'm sorry, this is probably the most basic question but I just feel so helpless already.  Thanks in advance for any help!edit: this problem has seemed to resolve itself, hopefully all is good! Sharks Eat Bear fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 04:17
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What kind of guitar do you figure this is? Obviously it's a Gibson SG. But it seems to have only a single-coil at the bridge? Is there a model number for this? Or is it a custom-shop job? [answered] Remaining question: What is the alternate setup to get this type of tone without spending a billion dollars? IE would any single-coil/bridge number get the job done, or does the thinness and construction of the SG have a lot to do with the tone? What would the closest Agile setup be?   Edit. Looks like it's a Gibson SG Jr. Clockwork Sputnik fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 21:43
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:What kind of guitar do you figure this is? Obviously it's a Gibson SG. But it seems to have only a single-coil at the bridge?
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Jul 25, 2010 03:42
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I've been skulking around, but I can't seem to find anything... Is anyone aware of a thread with tips/tricks/pointers on sight-reading? I've only been doing it for a couple weeks, and it's loving hard... I could really use some help. I don't know how people can look ahead while sight-reading and still know what the hell they're doing! My eyes don't work like that... I think my peripheral vision is retarded. I can understand what's going on in a measure if I look at it slowly and play it out, but then at that point I've memorized it; which I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to do. :/ gently caress... Edit: I guess it'd be helpful to mention that I'm a pianist.
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Jul 26, 2010 04:58
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My wife has a bass with active pickups. After about an hour of playing, it sort of fizzles out and dies. But then the next day, it works fine (for about another hour). This is definitely not a battery issue. When it cut out last night, we tried two different brand new batteries in it and got nothing. Put the original battery back in and gave up for the night. Picked it back up today, plays fine. Any idea what's going on here?
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Jul 26, 2010 05:19
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SugarPlumDemon posted:I've been skulking around, but I can't seem to find anything... It sucks, but the only way to get better at sight reading is to practice sight reading more. The more you play the more your hands just get to recognize shapes of chords and intervals when you see them on the page. It's hard to explain the connection between what you are reading ahead and what your hands are doing to catch up, but it just sort of happens after a while. Make sure to start with something within your capability, and try and read new material as often as possible. Even something that is way below your skill level can be useful just to be able to play it mostly correct at a glance.
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Jul 26, 2010 08:53
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SugarPlumDemon posted:
Oh hi, you appear to be me. My lack of sight-reading skill is in the process of loving up my entire education (at a school with no performance program no less). In any case, as a still-awful-but-improving sight reader the only real advice I can offer is to try reading intervalically as much as possible. I've found it to be much faster to translate a major third up on the page to the same thing on the keyboard or fretboard than to use note names. Obviously you can't do it purely this way and everyone is different, but this has helped me as much as anything. Basically, the more I'm able to use notes I've already read as reference points for subsequent ones the better I seem to fare. Lately I've just been writing on-paper exercises in a big-rear end music rudiments book and I'll be damned if it hasn't been doing me a whole lot of good. I felt like an absolute tool sitting in the airport writing exercises "for students eight and up" but going through the simple stuff just drills it into your head like only repetition can. The last third of the book is a little closer to a non-embarassing level too. Also https://www.musictheory.net has some nice flash card style exercises for notes, key signatures, clefs, and general good poo poo. Probably the least wasteful internet time-waster that I know of. And finally, I guess just hang in there. I spent like thirteen years not being able to read for poo poo because it just made my brain hurt and was horrible and frustrating and humiliating. It's still all of these things for me now, only much more so. Hope you have better luck.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:51
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SugarPlumDemon posted:sight reading Another thing I like to do is to make sure to feel the meter and imagine how the first few bars sound, at least rhythmically, at whatever tempo i choose before I start. This helps to set a reasonable pace for reading. Also, after I've identified the key signature I'll play through the scale a few times to get the sharps/flats into my hands, so I don't have to think about that the first time it comes up in the music.
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Jul 27, 2010 00:25
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Is there a decent way to paint a pickguard that won't look like rear end or cause weird textures or anything? I can't find quite what I'm looking for online, though I've found things that will work. I'd like to give a go at just painting the thing though if it can be done quickly (I'm horribly impatient) and effectively. I'm worried about regular paints coming off when they're struck by the pick and having a weird texture, and I don't know about rattlecanning it. It's a white pickguard for a black Standard Stratocaster and I'm looking for a dark purple or midnight blue. If it can't be done well though I'll get a black pickguard and go for the Gilmour look I guess. Has anyone ever painted a pickguard before? Any tips? Should I start a new thread for this?
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Jul 30, 2010 02:24
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Paramemetic posted:Is there a decent way to paint a pickguard that won't look like rear end or cause weird textures or anything? I can't find quite what I'm looking for online, though I've found things that will work. I'd like to give a go at just painting the thing though if it can be done quickly (I'm horribly impatient) and effectively. I'm worried about regular paints coming off when they're struck by the pick and having a weird texture, and I don't know about rattlecanning it. Krylon Fusion works on plastics great.
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Jul 30, 2010 02:34
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Thumposaurus posted:Krylon Fusion works on plastics great. It looks like good stuff. It says it dries to handle after an hour - would that be dry enough to put the electronics back on it and play, or ought I wait 7 days to play it so it's "fully chip resistant?" I have other guitars I can play if I have to wait, but I think it's understandable that I want to play the poo poo out of this thing since it's new. Edit: Or maybe that's the impatient impulsive ADHD in me.
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Jul 30, 2010 02:44
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I've got a Jazz guitar audition coming up in a month or so, it's for a personal instruction class at the university I go to. I need 7 minutes of material from the jazz idiom, and they want me to play lead lines. Anyone have any song recommendations and available music?
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Aug 1, 2010 19:22
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I have Superior Drummer basically up and running but I can't get control surfaces working. I've been using it in Reaper for the most part. My question mostly pertains to after I get the MPD thing that came with it set up properly. Is there a pedal I can assign to control the hi-hat open/closed settings? I mostly plan to program rhythms to trigger the samples, but hi-hat won't sound right unless I play it in and I'd like to be able to do that in real time. I'm not a drummer, I don't want a whole V-ket setup. Is there a cheap-ish pedal controller that will work for this purpose?
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Aug 1, 2010 22:45
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I'll give $10 to anyone who can tab this song out for me. I am a guitar noob and no way I can figure this out but I love the hell out of this song. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh6ioy6EOI0
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Aug 1, 2010 23:15
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Regular_John posted:I'll give $10 to anyone who can tab this song out for me. I am a guitar noob and no way I can figure this out but I love the hell out of this song. That song is hard to tell because that guitar is out of tune in god knows what way. From what I can tell most of the strings are sharp, but some could be flat, and lord knows what tuning he's using. That said, I gave it my best shot by using Amplitube to detune the guitar 35 cents sharp on the pitch shifter pedal, and these are the chords I have: e-------------------------------- b-------------------------------- G----8------3-----8------------- D----8------3-----8----8-------- A----9------4-----6----8-------- E---(7)-----2-----------6-------- Get a cheapo classical, leave it in your trunk for a couple of days and then play around liberally. (please don't pay me money)
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Aug 2, 2010 04:26
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I play my acoustic mostly in C. Are there any really amazing strings that sound good or are meant for a tuning that low. I understand using a heavier gauge helps when de-tuning but I haven't been able to find anything more specific.
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Aug 2, 2010 07:10
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Regular_John posted:I'll give $10 to anyone who can tab this song out for me. I am a guitar noob and no way I can figure this out but I love the hell out of this song. Haha drat, that guy on the stairs is bored as gently caress Seems to be Some Bmaj7/Bsus2 variations x24342 x24422 x24322 x24422 F#maj7 2x332x (you could also try 24332x, if you fret the 4 with your pinky you can flatten it out to get 24442 if you want to mess around) D#m x68876 A#m x13321 and an occasional trip to G#m/G#m7 after the Bmaj7 stuff 466444 464444 And he does that little B D# F# riff at one point too. This is all in standard, I have a feeling he's 'tuned' down to Eb, not that I can talk. Send me all your moneys!!! (not really)
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Aug 2, 2010 23:45
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I have a Presonus Firestudio, and it's FW400. I recently bought a new Mac Pro, and that ONLY has FW800 ports. I've managed to track down a rather expensive 800 <-> 400 cable, but had another question that's been bugging me for years. I should know the answer, but I don't. This is my first interface with ADAT/TOSLINK/Optical connections. My Mac Pro has optical ports as well. Why is it that I cannot connect the interface to my computer through that, INSTEAD of using firewire? Would I be answering my own question by guessing that it's because the optical connections in this case are just for audio and no other data?
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Aug 10, 2010 13:45
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Rupert Buttermilk posted:I've managed to track down a rather expensive 800 <-> 400 cable, Sorry to not directly answer your question (although I'm pretty sure your surmise is correct), but if you haven't already bought that cable, you can get one for $4.60 on monoprice. Monoprice gets a lot of love on the forums, and for good reason.
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Aug 10, 2010 15:04
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Manky posted:Sorry to not directly answer your question (although I'm pretty sure your surmise is correct), but if you haven't already bought that cable, you can get one for $4.60 on monoprice. Monoprice gets a lot of love on the forums, and for good reason. DAMMIT!!! Bought it months ago, but thanks for the site! EDIT: Have to order a DVI cable, and $5 plus about $6 for shipping is a great deal, seeing as though the local stores would probably charge me at least $25. Rupert Buttermilk fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 16:14
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Do decent, cheap, earplugs exist? I have a cheapo set of Hearos Jam Sessions that I don't like wearing that sound like poo poo, is there anything between this and custom plugs? e: The ones I have are foam, are the plastic/gel ones any clearer? the wizards beard fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 23:56
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the wizards beard posted:Do decent, cheap, earplugs exist? I have a cheapo set of Hearos Jam Sessions that I don't like wearing that sound like poo poo, is there anything between this and custom plugs? I just bought these http://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-High-Fidelity-Earplugs-White/dp/B0015WNZ9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1281481250&sr=8-1 for drumming. I like them. My ears like them (also known as, they don't ring painfully afterward). A bit uncomfortable the first couple times you wear them, but they work well and are easy to clean. The balance is pretty decent too, they cut out enough high so that cymbals dont hurt your ears but yet don't sound horrible, and there's only a tiny bit of added bass. (Edit: its still quieter, but it takes a little more high away than it does bass. Sort of sounds like drums recorded with a single room mic with them in) They also come with a cord so you can hang them around your neck and a little rubber case thing. Ninja Toast! fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 00:03
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Ninja Toast! posted:I just bought these http://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-High-Fidelity-Earplugs-White/dp/B0015WNZ9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1281481250&sr=8-1 I like these, too. I have them on my keychain and use them at band practice with no issues. They can increase your own singing volume depending on how far you insert them, which is actually a plus for me because I hear myself better.
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Aug 11, 2010 00:11
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I can't find Etymotic stuff in Europe but Elacin seem to be the same thing, thanks guys.
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Aug 11, 2010 00:42
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Maybe I'm overthinking this, but... how do I EQ programmed drums? If I were to record an actual kit, I would have a number of different mics for different drums and cymbals that I could EQ and balance individually. So each drum or cymbal is basically its own track. But, at least as far as I can tell, when I program drums, the whole kit is on one track, so any EQ or balance changes wouldn't be applied to individual drums, but to the kit itself. Is there a simpler solution than programming each drum individually as its own track? Can you change the EQ/balance of an individual drum or cymbal within the programmable kit? Hope this makes sense, thanks in advance for any help!
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Aug 12, 2010 01:40
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One way of going about it is to actually program each kit piece on a separate track. This allows you to make a better stereo image as well. The newer drum VSTs like Superior Drummer and (I believe) BFD also have various mic settings and allow for individual tracking. If you aren't using a VST that allows for it, I think tracking kit pieces separately is probably the best way to go, especially if the idea is to sound like (or close to) the real thing. Even if it isn't, it will still be easier to EQ individual tracks than one combined track. The ability to pan will also reduce the headache.
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Aug 12, 2010 03:38
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Can a Fender Twin Reverb be laid on its back for storage, or should it only be stored standing upright?
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Aug 12, 2010 22:11
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codyclarke posted:Can a Fender Twin Reverb be laid on its back for storage, or should it only be stored standing upright? Yes, no problem. Best way is to cover the back with something rigid, so nothing can fall into the speaker compartment; wrap the whole thing in an old blanket and/or bubble plastic; then put it face down (speaker magnets up). e: I forgot what the rationale is behind putting it face down, but it's something important. Underflow fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 11:47
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You can't drop things into or step on the speaker cones.
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Aug 13, 2010 14:12
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the wizards beard posted:You can't drop things into or step on the speaker cones. Yeah, that's it. That's the problem with habits, you forget the reasons behind them.
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Aug 13, 2010 18:04
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Maybe I'm overthinking this, but... how do I EQ programmed drums? If I were to record an actual kit, I would have a number of different mics for different drums and cymbals that I could EQ and balance individually. So each drum or cymbal is basically its own track. But, at least as far as I can tell, when I program drums, the whole kit is on one track, so any EQ or balance changes wouldn't be applied to individual drums, but to the kit itself. Is there a simpler solution than programming each drum individually as its own track? Can you change the EQ/balance of an individual drum or cymbal within the programmable kit? Hope this makes sense, thanks in advance for any help! Uh, depends on what you're using for the drums. Ableton Drum Rack lets you click to expand it in session view, and you can pan/mix/EQ each bit individually I think EZDrummer and some others let you do that stuff, but from within the plugin.
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Aug 13, 2010 22:43
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Guy's selling the following equipment locally for what look like great prices: MOTU 828 Firewire Audio Interface - $25 Roland Edirol SD-20 USB Synthesizer Module - $40 Looking around online this seems like a good deal, but maybe that's because I don't know what the equivalent would be in other brands. I've got absolutely nothing right now and am going to get a little 49 key midi/synth. We're in a somewhat isolated community so some stuff can go for pretty cheap in the classifieds if people don't want to bother with eBay or shipping. Thoughts? edit: VVV - Yeah it looks like it's definitely not what they're currently selling. Here's a pic:  Click here for the full 675x392 image. Hopefully he's got something set-up where he can show me it works, but I wouldn't be surprised based on the other stuff he's selling if he wouldn't be able to. Thanks for your help. edit2: Called and it was gone. 
odiv fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 21:48
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odiv posted:MOTU 828 Firewire Audio Interface - $25
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Aug 14, 2010 22:19
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Anyone know of a company that makes replacement shortscale bass necks? I have a '71 Musicmaster that used to belong to my brother (he never took to it) and there's a chance the neck is beyond help. I still need to raise the action at the nut and see about replacing the bridge and/or tuners*. Poor thing may get it's own thread depending on how much fixing up has to be done. I looked at Warmoth and USACG and googled around and haven't seen anyone offering a 30" scale replacement neck. I'd love to keep the current neck on but it's been semi-professionally made fretless and the first few fret positions just may not be playable. The other issue is that I'm not sure how consistent the neck pockets on these early 70s Musicmasters are. I'd love to have the option of a ready-made replacement if one exists. *I can't find drop-in replacements for any of the hardware either, incidentally. The tuners have no bushings and a smaller diameter than the standard type. The bridge can probably swapped for a Hipshot with the narrowest spacing they make.
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Aug 16, 2010 21:09
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