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Alright, I see your point I bill my work out, as a master saddle maker, for 25/hr but saddles take a very long time. I guess I will just make them myself. I've got lots of experience wood working so they shouldn't present a problem. I'll post them here when there are done.
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Jul 12, 2010 16:33
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Not an Anthem posted:I'm gonna buy my first lathe mostly for bowl turning, although I'm gonna try to do some spindle work for chair construction. I found a great deal on a grizzly 8691 3/4 hp lathe but the bed is "formed" rather than cast and the only thing I've found on that is over time the head and tail can go out of alignment through bending, POSSIBLY. I don't think you can go too wrong with that for $100. Don't know if it applies to you, but if you are going to do anything that is off balance, like natural edged bowls or lumps of burr, you are going to need to bolt the lathe down which I am not sure you can with that one, and it may well bend the entire machine if it is not cast. The headstock is cast though, so it could be okay. You may well find it hasn't got a large enough motor to turn anything really sizeable as well. 14" swing is utterly massive however, it should be more than a match for any spindle work. I have no idea how they have included electronic variable speed on it for that kind of price, that is really really useful. I just paid the equivalent of $38 for a new 3/4" scraper, you lucky sod.
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Jul 13, 2010 00:35
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My boss gave me a free mini set of spindle/scrapers/etc (8pc) and I just ordered a 3/8" crown pro-pm bowl gouge (50$), the narex bench chisel set that won "best value" (no poo poo!) award (6pc, 60$), and a medium grit diamond honer (10$) to keep edges good between sharpenings.. As for turning live edge bowls I think you can do it with the tailstock in. Rough out the bowl with the live edge facing the headstock, finishing cuts, make a tenon, then chuck it. At that point it won't be off balance. I've done big faceplate stuff that's thrown lathes around a bit though. edit- reading the Frugal Woodturner by ernie conover at the moment.. such a good book!
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Jul 13, 2010 02:58
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I am entertaining the thought of making a new coffee table for myself. I love the look of live edge wood and my father in law can get me any size/thickness red cedar from his sawmill. I haven't built anything from massive wood yet, just glued MDF boxes together, so I want to keep the design pretty simple. I'm thinking of some kind of simple trestle base for the slab to rest on. Anyone have any ideas to throw out, or any pitfalls I need to look out for when I work with this stuff?
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Jul 15, 2010 02:45
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Bah - this thread didn't bookmark and I missed the responses. Oh well; I'm pretty happy with how my table turned out. Did end up going with poly on it. Really love the tabletop. Nearly the entire table is from recycled wood. E: one more shot: 
unprofessional fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Jul 15, 2010 |
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Jul 15, 2010 16:18
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unprofessional posted:Bah - this thread didn't bookmark and I missed the responses. Oh well; I'm pretty happy with how my table turned out. Did end up going with poly on it. Really love the tabletop. Nearly the entire table is from recycled wood. Are you planning on stripped the paint on the legs?
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Jul 15, 2010 17:53
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Paint stays - it's covering crappy old 2x4s. Will just distress it a little bit. It's not quite as bright white as it looks in the pics.
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Jul 15, 2010 19:13
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One FYI to anyone who checks in on this today: Woodcraft is in the last day of a 40% off sale (plus free shipping on orders over $25) for select items. I picked up a tenoning jig and a mortising attachment along with some of those Dalmation hardwood pieces, because why the hell not: http://www.woodcraft.com/catalog/tent-sale.aspx And a question: Does anyone buy their hardwood online? I'm having a hell of a time finding reasonably priced hardwood in the dimensions that I need and was wondering if anyone had sources that were still decent deals after shipping.
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Jul 15, 2010 20:32
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Shipping $$ will depend on proximity of course. http://www.walllumber.com/
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Jul 16, 2010 18:42
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wormil posted:Shipping $$ will depend on proximity of course. Looks like the 20 bf packs are MUCH better than my local store's prices. After tax they charged about $11/bf for 8/4 hard maple and that's giving them the benefit of the doubt since it was planed to 1.5" actual thickness. $7/bf shipped is much nicer and makes the cutting boards I'm making more realistic in price. Now I might end up having to get my blades sharpened after all that hard maple but at least I won't be paying out the wazoo for the wood. 
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Jul 16, 2010 20:54
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Making slow progress on building a hamper to make the wife happy. Nothing too fancy, probably a little bit bigger than it needs to be, but oh well. Oak plywood backing and internal shelves, solid oak frame, with two drawers on the bottom for linens. Once I get the front frame part done i'm cutting out the 1/8" oak plywood inset panels to slot in with my router. The main compartment up top will hold three 14x14x28 thick cloth hamper baskets. We'll be staining it to match the rest of the bedroom furniture. More pictures to come as I make progress! 
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Jul 17, 2010 04:38
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Got the narex bench chisels that fine woodworking rated best value/edge retention.. 6pc for 60$ shipped. These things are killer and a STUPID deal, get em at Highland woodworking before they're sold out for another year! Picked up a 3/8 bowl gouge for 30$ off too. Yaaaay
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Jul 18, 2010 20:36
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My cutting boards seem to be coming out nicely, but it really accents the limitations of my planer and the need for me to build a small drum sander. I'm using a very old and heavy craftsman belt sander (because the newer plastic POS I was given died) but it's rather uneven. I have a cheap craftsman table saw, that tried to kill me once, collecting dust in the basement. I could cannibalize the motor and make a drum sander with 2x4s and some ply.... Is building a specialized tool to build a project going over the line?
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Jul 19, 2010 05:43
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Related to DIY drum sanders.. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=91415 It'd be really hard to get the speed right so you don't set fire to the piece. The drum sander we have at work is huge and has a built in light that blinks when the feed is too fast for the size of work (aka, THIS IS GOING TO CATCH FIRE STOP), it'll automatically slow the feed down. It would be a cool project though, try it, just keep the sander SLOW
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Jul 19, 2010 14:06
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Not an Anthem posted:Related to DIY drum sanders.. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=91415 Yeah, I looked up the manual and the saw was supposed to run at 1,750 RPMs under no load. I think I'd need to reduce it down to 300-500 RPM for safety. That shouldn't be too hard though, a 2" pulley at the motor and a 10" at the drum and put them about 15" apart from center and it should drop it down to 350rpm if my math is right.
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Jul 19, 2010 19:38
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What's the latest thoughts on the Shopsmith equipment? I've got a few of the tools that it has but due to limited space can't keep items like my table saw (old heavy as gently caress cast iron beast) out and was thinking that for smaller projects one of these might be a decent trade-off. I found a full Mark 5 with a bunch of extra accessories on Craigslist for only $650 (new price over 2k) that has been used very little. Just wanted to check and see if anyone knew about the longevity/quality of them. Thanks.
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Jul 19, 2010 20:20
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Tindjin posted:What's the latest thoughts on the Shopsmith equipment? I've got a few of the tools that it has but due to limited space can't keep items like my table saw (old heavy as gently caress cast iron beast) out and was thinking that for smaller projects one of these might be a decent trade-off. I found a full Mark 5 with a bunch of extra accessories on Craigslist for only $650 (new price over 2k) that has been used very little. Just wanted to check and see if anyone knew about the longevity/quality of them. Thanks. I've never used one (so take it with a grain of salt) but when I was buying my tools last winter I seriously looked into it. The reviews seemed to say that, while they generally do everything OK they aren't excellent at anything. The table saw tends to be lacking some of the nicer features but, depending on the version, provides you a large table to work with. The one that stood out for me said that while he appreciated the amount of space it saved him, he felt that the time it took to change machines made it negligible on productivity.
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Jul 19, 2010 21:18
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Tindjin posted:What's the latest thoughts on the Shopsmith equipment? My Oft Repeated Take: If you are space constrained and want to combine tasks, then get a combo Jointer/Planer (several companies are making these now, Rikon, Jet, Etc.) and a good Radial Arm saw (Old DeWalt or Delta/Rockwell, or a newer Stromab, Maggi, or Omga). This is as "combined" as I would get and still be able to do everything well. My $.02 Edit: One of the primary strengths of this setup is that both tools can be placed near a wall and used that way. There is no need for wheeling things out and then putting them back up which is one of the most aggravating aspects of woodworking in a confined space. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 19, 2010 23:02
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Went to Woodcraft today for the 1st time.  ::edit:: So my post isn't all about fapping... Regarding this image:  What would be the best way to secure the inner boxes to the case itself, being it would be holding books? I would image creating a 5-sided inner box, then screwing the back of that piece to the case. Instead of using fiberboard for the backs, just use the same plywood all-around? Also, what's the best way to make this shape? I'd like to have the plywood at least 1/2 in thick.  Thanks all. JoeWindetc fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 19, 2010 23:11
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JoeWindetc posted:No solution to offer; just wanted to compliment you on the look of your room.
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Jul 21, 2010 17:22
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Finally used the lathe I spent a couple weeks restoring. Simple, yet satisfying. 
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Jul 21, 2010 18:42
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JoeWindetc posted:Went to Woodcraft today for the 1st time. Do you mind if there are joints or do you want the corners smooth and appearing as one piece? If you want them smooth you could look to make plywood in that shape out of thin pieces of hardwood that are built with a half lapped joint on one of the sides. You'll likely want to use the vacuum method to do this... I've never had to do anything like that but I've seen it done before. I've considered making some chairs using this method but never found the time. Here's some light reading on the subject: http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/welcome.htm Anubis fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 23:14
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Can anybody take a stab at ID'ing the wood in my tabletop? Came out of an Amish guy's woods, here in michigan. Here's a picture before staining: Also, the white will be gone, soon. My lady friend had some extra paint in a shade that should be much more complimentary. I never really got the sort of antiquing look I was hoping for. Also, this rocks: ChaoticSeven posted:unprofessional fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 23:36
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ChaoticSeven posted:A $50 to $70 an hour shop rate is pretty common. There are lot's of shops with higher rates than that. You set a shop rate to target the work you want to get, and weed out the stuff you don't want to do or can't afford to do. I don't make a living or really advertise my woodworking (aside from a single SAMart thread) and I still get generous job and commission offers that would literally end up with me going in the hole after materials, time, consumables, electricity, machine wear, bit wear blah blah blah. I've gotten these on the forums, but the worst always come from friends and family. As a lawyer I get this all the time. I always send the person a bill with the $2500, etc. bill I would have sent to a normal person and show where I applied a "friends and family" discount to the bill. That way they know that my time is not worth the $250 they gave me and they won't refer people to me telling them that I am cheap. It really bugs that referral when they get quoted a significantly higher bill than our mutual friend told them he paid. Always make sure people know what the true value of your services are.
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Jul 22, 2010 01:48
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Anubis posted:Do you mind if there are joints or do you want the corners smooth and appearing as one piece? If you want them smooth you could look to make plywood in that shape out of thin pieces of hardwood that are built with a half lapped joint on one of the sides. You don't want to do bent laminations where the shape is a complete line with no beginning and no end (i.e. complete circle etc.) Trust me, you don't want to do this At all Ever I mean, you CAN, and I have, but you don't WANT to. Or at least you wont after the first one.
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Jul 22, 2010 04:15
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GEMorris posted:You don't want to do bent laminations where the shape is a complete line with no beginning and no end (i.e. complete circle etc.) I never said it was easy, just that if he wants to do it that way that's the way he'd have to do it.
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Jul 22, 2010 04:44
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My craftsman of an uncle generously gave me his old Dewalt 2hp radial arm saw (20 something years old). I currently have an old 1hp Sears cast iron table saw. My woodworking shop is short on space though and I'm considering keeping only one (although my arm could be twisted to keep both). I also have a Makita miter saw (not compound or sliding unfortunately but I'd love to have one) Thoughts? dwoloz fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 05:31
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Thanks for the tips Anubis, GEMorris... well, we'll see, haha. In return, I present you all with the work of Steven Spiro, local woodworking artist here. Example:  Click here for the full 885x600 image.
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Jul 22, 2010 06:27
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Jesus that is ugly as poo poo. Why is it so many highly skilled woodworkers make the most appalling impossible-to-use heavy overly built crap  Sorry for the vitriolic subjective opinion, but that is burning my retinas.
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Jul 22, 2010 17:11
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JoeWindetc posted:Also, what's the best way to make this shape? I'd like to have the plywood at least 1/2 in thick. Quoting myself, but what about kerfing the wood to achieve said shape? Anyone have any experience with this method?
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Jul 22, 2010 17:19
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Not an Anthem posted:Jesus that is ugly as poo poo. Why is it so many highly skilled woodworkers make the most appalling impossible-to-use heavy overly built crap Not everything useful has to be Shaker or Mission style. Some people like (really) obvious flair, and this dude appears to have that in spades. I'd use that desk and probably love it. It reminds me of the swamps 
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Jul 22, 2010 21:45
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Not an Anthem posted:Jesus that is ugly as poo poo. Why is it so many highly skilled woodworkers make the most appalling impossible-to-use heavy overly built crap +1,000 There is no excuse for this, period. I'm not even letting this fly under the banner of "hey, different people have different tastes you know". This is just as Not an Anthem said, overly built, low functionality item. If it was beautiful then that could compensate for the usability, but it is far from beautiful. Uggh, I mean just basic composition and color choices are bad enough. Add the fact that it is referencing a kidney-shaped desk but in that horribly thick 90's woodworking style with every corner rounded over. Just gross surfacing imho, doesn't matter what material it is in.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:24
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The drawer is what was really offensive, honestly. Its hard to see with all the leper desk legs.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:52
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Guys, I think I like loving around with the lathe. I decided to try out a cheap pen kit today, Wall Street II from Woodcraft, with eucalyptus burl. I think it looks pretty cool. I'll be ordering some higher end kits I think.
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Jul 23, 2010 02:06
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My order from wall lumber came in today, looks fairly good. There are two knots on the maple but they actually gave me 21+ bf so it should work out fairly well.
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Jul 23, 2010 04:02
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dwoloz posted:My craftsman of an uncle generously gave me his old Dewalt 2hp radial arm saw (20 something years old). I currently have an old 1hp Sears cast iron table saw. My woodworking shop is short on space though and I'm considering keeping only one (although my arm could be twisted to keep both). I also have a Makita miter saw (not compound or sliding unfortunately but I'd love to have one) My Great Uncle (who I learned about 40% of what I know about woodworking from) made a lot of furniture in his workshop with a Craftsman RAS and no tablesaw. I'd worked on a few projects with him when I was growing up, but it wasn't until I was older and taking on large projects by myself that I realized how impressive that was. Maybe it's because I've got a tablesaw-centric shop, but I can't imagine working without one. He made it work though and he made some beautiful furniture. I'd keep them both if you can - especially if you ever think you might be able to expand your shop eventually. ChaoticSeven, did you use the wine stopper hardware from Woodcraft? Are you happy with the quality?
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Jul 23, 2010 11:49
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I got the bottle stopper hardware from PSI. They look fine and are pretty heavy, but after I'd already bought 10 of them I read a few things about them getting tarnished and the chrome peeling in wine and vinegar bottles. Then again, others said they had no problems. From now on I'll probably be ordering Ruth Niles stainless. The PSI ones would probably be fine for oils, though.
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Jul 23, 2010 17:57
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Anything chromed is a bad plan in the long run. Go stainless or go home, really.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:46
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I've got a huge screened-in porch on the back of my house, and I bought a little LCD TV to put back there, along with a tiny amplifier for some speakers and a little network music receiver. I want to build a locking cabinet to hold all of this stuff, so that somebody can't just walk up and pick it up and leave. Basically, I want a dart board cabinet-type thing with a lock on the front. I was getting ready to draw up some plans, but I've been trying to think of a more unique way to build this than a dart board cabinet. I'll do it if I can't think of anything else, but I was wondering if anybody had any ideas for a unique cabinet door substitution. I was thinking about a tiny garage door-type rollup door, but I don't know if anybody makes anything like that. Basically, I'm just looking for any innovative ideas anybody has.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:24
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The Human Cow posted:I've got a huge screened-in porch on the back of my house, and I bought a little LCD TV to put back there, along with a tiny amplifier for some speakers and a little network music receiver. I want to build a locking cabinet to hold all of this stuff, so that somebody can't just walk up and pick it up and leave. Basically, I want a dart board cabinet-type thing with a lock on the front. I was getting ready to draw up some plans, but I've been trying to think of a more unique way to build this than a dart board cabinet. I'll do it if I can't think of anything else, but I was wondering if anybody had any ideas for a unique cabinet door substitution. I was thinking about a tiny garage door-type rollup door, but I don't know if anybody makes anything like that. Basically, I'm just looking for any innovative ideas anybody has. you could make a Tambour door. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=4968
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Jul 24, 2010 00:53
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