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Autism Sundae posted:Are there any TSBs for any other door stuff (MK6 obviously)? This is seriously the weirdest thing, I lubed all seals and the right door is completely fine now but left door creaks when I go over bumps. That was the only open TSB that came up for door-associated problems on the newer GTI/Golf. Here's an old trick to find exactly where the creak is coming from (if it's in the door seal). Open the door and cover the entire seal with masking tape, close the door and go for a ride. If the squeak is gone, it's your door seal, if not then it's something else. If it IS the door seal, take 3-4 inches of tape off and drive again. Keep repeating this until the squeak re-appears. Whatever part of the seal you just removed tape from is likely very close to where the seal is causing the noise. Lube the area with a little petroleum jelly or Chapstick and drive again. Misalignment of the door or striker can certainly cause this problem but the dealership should be sending it to a body shop to confirm the door is hung correctly.
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Jul 23, 2010 00:08
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My door is creaky too, and having driven a 4-door Golf in the UK for the past 2 weeks without hearing any of these noises from either the front left or front right doors, my car's squeaks from the doors are definitely a little out of the usual. Makes me think I should have gotten the 4-door one instead, but oh well. Thanks for the TSB number, if I have trouble convincing them I'll mention it.
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Jul 23, 2010 00:12
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my1999gsr posted:That was the only open TSB that came up for door-associated problems on the newer GTI/Golf. Here's an old trick to find exactly where the creak is coming from (if it's in the door seal). Open the door and cover the entire seal with masking tape, close the door and go for a ride. If the squeak is gone, it's your door seal, if not then it's something else. If it IS the door seal, take 3-4 inches of tape off and drive again. Keep repeating this until the squeak re-appears. Whatever part of the seal you just removed tape from is likely very close to where the seal is causing the noise. Lube the area with a little petroleum jelly or Chapstick and drive again. Misalignment of the door or striker can certainly cause this problem but the dealership should be sending it to a body shop to confirm the door is hung correctly. That's a good trick, I'll try this today. Should I cover the seals on the door itself though or on the inner seals that are inside the car? I lubed all the seals already though but I don't know what else it could be.
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Jul 23, 2010 00:31
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On the turbo idling thing: a lot of why you don't have to idle turbo VW's is the fancy oils they use. Cheaper oils will break down if they're left in a hot turbo with no circulation. I don't usually idle my 98 TDI before shutdown, but in the rare occasion that I'm stopping immediately after going 40+ MPH I will.
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Jul 23, 2010 05:16
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minivanmegafun posted:I'm going to be storing my 2008 Rabbit for a little under a year. After getting it scratched sitting on the street, and realizing I hadn't put gas in it in over a month, I decided it's not worth the risk of damage it has parked on the street. Anything I should do to it now? If you don't plan to check on it during that time, I'd suggest putting it on jackstands to keep from ruining the tires.
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Jul 23, 2010 16:22
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Is TSB 2023699 just for wind noise specifically?
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Jul 23, 2010 18:45
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Also my1999gsr would you recommend the dry type silicone lubricant or the wet type? 3M has both of them listed as fixes for door seal squeaks, plus there's this thing: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...2gl8M8JBGMJXGbl which I guess is just all-purpose grease? And hey, hate to keep bothering you about this again :ironycat: but do you happen to know the size of the hex key for the two rubber bump stops for the hatch?
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Jul 23, 2010 19:22
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Autism Sundae posted:That's a good trick, I'll try this today. Should I cover the seals on the door itself though or on the inner seals that are inside the car? I lubed all the seals already though but I don't know what else it could be. I'd do it with the main rubber seal that's on the car and not the door itself. The majority of squeaks related to door seals that I've diagnosed have been from the upper seal along the top of the door. You can also try adjusing the door latch striker - moving it inboard will result in the door sealing much tighter against the seal. Don't overdo it though - it's hard on the latch and can shorten the life of the seals.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:26
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Opensourcepirate posted:On the turbo idling thing: a lot of why you don't have to idle turbo VW's is the fancy oils they use. Cheaper oils will break down if they're left in a hot turbo with no circulation. I don't usually idle my 98 TDI before shutdown, but in the rare occasion that I'm stopping immediately after going 40+ MPH I will. We only started recommending synthetic oils to our 1.8T owners a few years ago - until then they got plain old Castrol 5W-30 unless the customer specifically asked for something else. Even the older turbo diesels didn't automatically get synthetic oil like they do now either. I certainly wouldn't run anything other than synthetic oil in a turbo engined car though.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:29
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Autism Sundae posted:Is TSB 2023699 just for wind noise specifically? That's all it specifies for cause in the paperwork attached to the TSB. I think the hex you need is 4mm or 5mm. I can't remember exactly - it's been a long time since I adjusted the bumpstops on a hatch. You can use either seal lubricant - I like to be able to spray it on a cloth and apply it that way for less mess.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:32
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my1999gsr posted:I'd do it with the main rubber seal that's on the car and not the door itself. The majority of squeaks related to door seals that I've diagnosed have been from the upper seal along the top of the door. You can also try adjusing the door latch striker - moving it inboard will result in the door sealing much tighter against the seal. Don't overdo it though - it's hard on the latch and can shorten the life of the seals. Yeah I'm 99% sure it's the upper seal at this point. The way it sits there is visibly different from the passenger door, the seal on driver side is pushed up and in a bit. The reason why I'm bringing up the TSB is because it seems to lead to replacement of door seals with updated models. My issue is basically same as this guy's, I think: http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6604 I'm fairly sure B-pillar ticking is related to the seals somehow as well, I hear it on the driver side now and it never happened before. Is applying wet-type lube after dry-type bad at all? Seems like overkill but I'm just trying to find something that can fix this and dry lube didn't do it. Dealer found some door seal grease thing for Eos as well, they say it might work.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:48
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[quote="Autism Sundae"] Yeah I'm 99% sure it's the upper seal at this point. The way it sits there is visibly different from the passenger door, the seal on driver side is pushed up and in a bit. The reason why I'm bringing up the TSB is because it seems to lead to replacement of door seals with updated models. The Eos stuff is very good at quieting rattles - I was going to recommend it but describing a VW-specific lube is a little difficult. Anyways, it's overkill to use wet and dry lube - if one doesn't work then the use of another won't help.
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Jul 24, 2010 03:33
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Perhaps a bit older than the regular VW query; are brazilian repro parts for old bugs as bad quality as I've read about? I need six new indicator units (Indicators 10/1963 - 7/1974 on this page), this is what my bug uses for tail lights on the rear arches... The rubber on the current ones has totally shriveled up and died, so I need to do a swap out. You can see the price difference, £60 for 6 Brazilian lamps or £240 for 6 German classics  The other option is to cannabalise the current lamps into two working indicators on the arches, fill/paint the 4 holes and put two Duolamps on stalks over the exhausts for the brake/running lights... What do folks reckon? Pic below for reference, I'd put the duos somewhere between the top horn of the exhaust and the bottom of the back arch if I bought them.
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Jul 24, 2010 19:45
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Used VW Eos: good idea or bad idea?
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Jul 25, 2010 17:42
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MALCOLM XTREME posted:Used VW Eos: good idea or bad idea? Well, that depends on what you plan to do with it. The roof system has been mostly problem-free since launch (besides the odd squeak - it's a cabrio after all) and it's very quick and smooth. There's not a lot of trunk space with the roof retracted though so your golf clubs will be in the back seat if you're travelling with the top down. There's a fairly large recall going on now for a certain range of the Eos that results in replacement of the transmission Mechatronic unit to fix a harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shift - the notices have recently been mailed out to owners. The engines (2.0T in Canada and both the 3.2 and 2.0T in the US) work well and have lots of get up and go with a stiff chassis. Like most VW cars, the Eos has a nice interior with very supportive seats and a decent-sized back seat for passengers. If you're looking for a retracting hard-top cabriolet and you don't care for the styling of the Mercedes then the Eos is worth a look. I much prefer the A3 with it's large sunroof but it's just not the same as a full convertible.
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Jul 25, 2010 18:26
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Sometimes when my 2009 Rabbit has been sitting for a few hours (I usually notice it when leaving for work in the morning, and going home at the end of the day) the engine will rev itself a bit when I first start the car. It's not really strong, but it's definitely above a normal idle. If I put it in gear and let go of the brake, the car will lurch forward. Letting the engine run for about 5 seconds brings it back down to a normal idle, and the car will act normally for the rest of the trip. Anything to worry about? Also, does anyone use 0W-30 motor oil? It costs the same as the 5W-30 Mobil 1, and I figure if there's no other difference I might as well get the extra couple MPGs.
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Jul 25, 2010 18:45
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Toebone posted:Sometimes when my 2009 Rabbit has been sitting for a few hours (I usually notice it when leaving for work in the morning, and going home at the end of the day) the engine will rev itself a bit when I first start the car. It's not really strong, but it's definitely above a normal idle. If I put it in gear and let go of the brake, the car will lurch forward. Letting the engine run for about 5 seconds brings it back down to a normal idle, and the car will act normally for the rest of the trip. Anything to worry about? My wife's '07 Rabbit 2.5 idles really high on startup as well. Whenever I drive it, I wait for the idle to dip back down before shifting into drive. I think she asked a service tech about it and they said it was normal, but I'm curious to hear what my1999gsr has to say about it.
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Jul 25, 2010 18:57
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DropShadow posted:My wife's '07 Rabbit 2.5 idles really high on startup as well. Whenever I drive it, I wait for the idle to dip back down before shifting into drive. I think she asked a service tech about it and they said it was normal, but I'm curious to hear what my1999gsr has to say about it. Mine (2008) does likewise, but it will drop down as soon as I drop it in to reverse and let the clutch out.
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Jul 25, 2010 20:09
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So the CEL came on in my '06 GLI while accelerating onto the highway (changed gear around 4-5k RPM). It is solid and the booklet says it is an issue with the exhaust system and that the MFD should tell me something about it, but the MFD isn't saying anything. How much of a chance this is it a turbo issue, perhaps the DV valve? The wastegate is still very audible and no strange noises/feel has occurred. This is a non-chipped GLI with 62k miles, serviced at 60k.
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Jul 25, 2010 21:23
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Toebone posted:Sometimes when my 2009 Rabbit has been sitting for a few hours (I usually notice it when leaving for work in the morning, and going home at the end of the day) the engine will rev itself a bit when I first start the car. It's not really strong, but it's definitely above a normal idle. If I put it in gear and let go of the brake, the car will lurch forward. Letting the engine run for about 5 seconds brings it back down to a normal idle, and the car will act normally for the rest of the trip. Anything to worry about? I've seen this with every car I've ever had or driven (to various degree of course). Engine's not going to run at your normal idle RPM from a cold start right away, that's just how it works. Just to give you an idea my GTI's normal idle is 790 or so, just below 800 RPM, and from a cold start it revs at 1200 or so then drops to normal very quickly. If you're running at 3K or something ridiculous before it settles then yeah it's possibly a problem.
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Jul 25, 2010 21:29
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my1999gsr posted:Well, that depends on what you plan to do with it. The roof system has been mostly problem-free since launch (besides the odd squeak - it's a cabrio after all) and it's very quick and smooth. There's not a lot of trunk space with the roof retracted though so your golf clubs will be in the back seat if you're travelling with the top down. There's a fairly large recall going on now for a certain range of the Eos that results in replacement of the transmission Mechatronic unit to fix a harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shift - the notices have recently been mailed out to owners. The engines (2.0T in Canada and both the 3.2 and 2.0T in the US) work well and have lots of get up and go with a stiff chassis. Like most VW cars, the Eos has a nice interior with very supportive seats and a decent-sized back seat for passengers. If you're looking for a retracting hard-top cabriolet and you don't care for the styling of the Mercedes then the Eos is worth a look. I much prefer the A3 with it's large sunroof but it's just not the same as a full convertible.
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Jul 25, 2010 21:49
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I have a 2007 Audi A3 with the 2.0t and the DSG. It's killed its second set of front tires at barely 23000 miles. They're the OEM Pirelli P6 all-seasons, the failure mode was the same with both sets, normal tread wear on the inside and outside of the tires but the middle is gone down to the belts in big spots, with the left worse than the right. It's like if the tires were badly overinflated, but the pressures are fine. I'm still on the original rears and their wear is normal and minimal, far as I can tell. Looking around the 'net, there seems to be a lot of hate about these tires on this car, but that failure's pretty odd. Is there any way the car itself (i.e. suspension adjustment) could be off and doing this or are the Pirellis really just that bad? And what other 225 45 R17 94H all-season tires would you guys recommend? I drive aggressively but not that roughly, and I need something that can survive a Connecticut winter.
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Jul 25, 2010 22:09
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Snowdens Secret posted:I have a 2007 Audi A3 with the 2.0t and the DSG. It's killed its second set of front tires at barely 23000 miles. They're the OEM Pirelli P6 all-seasons, the failure mode was the same with both sets, normal tread wear on the inside and outside of the tires but the middle is gone down to the belts in big spots, with the left worse than the right. It's like if the tires were badly overinflated, but the pressures are fine. I'm still on the original rears and their wear is normal and minimal, far as I can tell. Did you get the tires replaced on warranty and have they been rotated regularly (like during service intervals)? I plan on putting a winter set on which will at least extend the life of the all seasons. Heres one of those images with the types of wear...
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Jul 25, 2010 22:56
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The Audi dealer wouldn't replace the tires under warranty, they said they looked overinflated and that excess wear was Pirelli's problem. Pirelli was unresponsive and I didn't want to drive around on belts while they dickered. This seems to be normal behavior. Neither I nor the dealer noticed any odd wear at the 5k mark, and the first set was showing belts on both fronts by 8500. At the 15k mark the second set looked fine but at 23k the left one looks like hell and the right is beginning to show. Edit - pics:   Left tire, which is the far worse of the two. Looks like classic overinflation, but pressures are fine. The first pair wore the same way. I'm wondering if there's something strange with the setup of the car that could be excessively heating the tires somehow and causing pressure to rise excessively when I'm on the highway or something. Googling around brings up other people with this car/tire combo and the same problem, and the recommended corrective action seems to be to get a different brand of tire. Another point, the first pair became visibly worn out around this point in the summer as well, so maybe exposure to 100+ degree Virginia weather (I just moved) could have been a factor. Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 23:20
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When I went in for my courtesy check for my VW they gave me a checklist of what they went over and exact measurements of the treads even. Do they do that with your service? I have the same tires I think, but hardly any miles yet. They did mention the warranty is with Pirelli, not VW.
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Jul 25, 2010 23:35
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I have a 2010 Golf TDI, and I need to mount a front license plate on it. Am I best off just going in and having the dealership drill the front bumper? I've seen forums where people build out a mounting bracket using bolts, spacers, washers, and a few other things that doesn't seem to complicated, but it doesn't look exactly easy to get access in behind the grill (either top or bottom, although preferably bottom) on my Golf. Is it actually relatively easy to get in there with enough room to put the washers and bolts in to secure it to the grill?
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Jul 26, 2010 00:01
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mastermind2004 posted:I have a 2010 Golf TDI, and I need to mount a front license plate on it. Am I best off just going in and having the dealership drill the front bumper?  for me.
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Jul 26, 2010 00:06
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JHVH-1 posted:When I went in for my courtesy check for my VW they gave me a checklist of what they went over and exact measurements of the treads even. Do they do that with your service? Nope - I got receipts from the dealer down in VA with helpful messages like '5K SERVICE PERFORMED' and the consumables/parts used. The 5K one mentions 'INCLUDES TIRE ROTATION' but the 15K one doesn't. I was actually rather disappointed, I'd rather get an actual checklist. I'll see if the dealer up here in CT does it differently for the upcoming 25k service.
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Jul 26, 2010 00:06
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My 03 GTI has a squeal in the power steering when turned to lock, I'm assuming I might need to add a little fluid. Are there any fluids other than OEM stuff that are compatible? IE, stuff I can find at Autozone.
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Jul 26, 2010 02:50
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How often should I rotate the tires on my GTI, is it every 5K or so?
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Jul 26, 2010 03:23
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^^^^If you live in a normal climate and only have 1 set of wheels, 5k is usally a nice round number. I rotate mine each time I switch between summer/winter sets.mastermind2004 posted:I have a 2010 Golf TDI, and I need to mount a front license plate on it. Am I best off just going in and having the dealership drill the front bumper? I assume your state "requires" a front plate. But here's a better question. Are you going to be parking somewhere that you will get ticketed for not having a plate? I'm going on years with no front plate (florida car) and have only been pulled over once, and got off with a warning mostly cause the cop was probably looking for drug runners (I was going the speed limit on i-10 leaving Texas with a box truck following me, neither of us had front plates). Personally I just hate the look of a front plate on most vehicles.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:19
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The rubber creaking noises from driver side door get louder with temperature, and are at its worst if I leave the car in the sun for a while. This kind of confirms that it's the seals to me... I've been reading mk6 forums and apparently creaking seals are a common problem, especially for 3-doors. I'm looking into some kind of permanent solution (dealer gave me a part number for some clear tape to put above the door but it's not really a great way to do this), but can something like this: http://www.1z-usa.com/einszett_gummi_pflege.html work pretty well on the seals? my1999gsr, not sure if you would know but what's proper alignment for doors on a mk6 GTI? Is there an easy way to tell if something's not aligned right? The upper seal on left door looks pushed in, but both doors close normally.
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Jul 26, 2010 19:14
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Toebone posted:Sometimes when my 2009 Rabbit has been sitting for a few hours (I usually notice it when leaving for work in the morning, and going home at the end of the day) the engine will rev itself a bit when I first start the car. It's not really strong, but it's definitely above a normal idle. If I put it in gear and let go of the brake, the car will lurch forward. Letting the engine run for about 5 seconds brings it back down to a normal idle, and the car will act normally for the rest of the trip. Anything to worry about? The newer drive by wire cars all seem to have this complaint at one time or another. I've done a basic setting for the throttle module with no success as well. It's not a problem per se - think of it more as a quirk.
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Jul 26, 2010 22:50
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Alighieri posted:So the CEL came on in my '06 GLI while accelerating onto the highway (changed gear around 4-5k RPM). It is solid and the booklet says it is an issue with the exhaust system and that the MFD should tell me something about it, but the MFD isn't saying anything. How much of a chance this is it a turbo issue, perhaps the DV valve? The wastegate is still very audible and no strange noises/feel has occurred. This is a non-chipped GLI with 62k miles, serviced at 60k. It so, so hard to say why your MIL is on in a situation like this. The owner's manual tends to use the MIL light as an emissions equipment warning. Basically, it's VW's way of saying "Hey stupid, if you keep driving you're likely to damage your catalytic converter and it's expensive." There are so many other scenarios that will result in a MIL light that its being an exhaust-related fault is pretty remote. Odds are it's the DV or maybe a problem with the throttle control module - both have been problems on the 2.0T motors pretty much since they hit the market.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:00
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Where is the secondary air pump located on a 2.7T A6? I'm throwing codes about it after getting my car back from the shop for a TC change and I'm wondering if they broke something or if it's coincidental.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:05
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MALCOLM XTREME posted:Do they break a lot? Are they expensive to repair? No more expensive than a GLI or GTI of the same age. The roof has been mostly problem-free and it's the only feature that's really different.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:05
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Snowdens Secret posted:I have a 2007 Audi A3 with the 2.0t and the DSG. It's killed its second set of front tires at barely 23000 miles. They're the OEM Pirelli P6 all-seasons, the failure mode was the same with both sets, normal tread wear on the inside and outside of the tires but the middle is gone down to the belts in big spots, with the left worse than the right. It's like if the tires were badly overinflated, but the pressures are fine. I'm still on the original rears and their wear is normal and minimal, far as I can tell. For a while almost all Audi vehicles came equipped with P6 tires and they've been far better than the sub-par Continental tires that came before. From the pictures you posted it really looks like the front tires have been WAY over-inflated though. If you check your tire pressure, do your front tire pressure readings match the rears? There's not really any way that an alignment issue would cause a wear pattern like you have though - it's pretty much a text book description of a tire that's been over-inflated.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:16
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Snowdens Secret posted:Nope - I got receipts from the dealer down in VA with helpful messages like '5K SERVICE PERFORMED' and the consumables/parts used. The 5K one mentions 'INCLUDES TIRE ROTATION' but the 15K one doesn't. I was actually rather disappointed, I'd rather get an actual checklist. I'll see if the dealer up here in CT does it differently for the upcoming 25k service. Audi only recommends one tire rotation - at 5000 miles.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:19
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DoktorLoken posted:My 03 GTI has a squeal in the power steering when turned to lock, I'm assuming I might need to add a little fluid. Are there any fluids other than OEM stuff that are compatible? IE, stuff I can find at Autozone. The power steering fluid for VW is a mineral-based fluid but I'm not sure if you can find a compatible fluid anywhere but over the counter at VW. The PS fluid isn't very expensive from VW anyways and you won't need much so it might be worth the peace of mind to buy the right stuff. It's green and smells like bad cooking oil.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:24
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Neon Machete posted:Where is the secondary air pump located on a 2.7T A6? I'm throwing codes about it after getting my car back from the shop for a TC change and I'm wondering if they broke something or if it's coincidental. The secondary air pump is on the driver's side rear of the engine in the area of the vac. line to the brake booster. The lines from the pump are all corrogated plastic and tend to crack and leak if you even look at them wrong so it's very possible that they were disturbed during a repair.
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Jul 26, 2010 23:31
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