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My 02 WRX wagon started overheating while sitting in a traffic jam. I got off the highway and got some fresh air and the temp started dropping. I took it to my mechanic yesterday after checking and seeing no coolant in the reservoir. Diagnosis: Cracked Radiator  $400 for a new rad, labor, Subaru S coolant, and a synthetic oil change and she's ready for pickup.I'm just  that with an empty radiator she drove a few miles quite happily air cooled!
toplitzin fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 20:37
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Trintintin posted:I'm going to look at a 1998 2.5 rs later tonight. It has freshly redone head gaskets, water pump, and timing belts. Its the 5speed and it has 120k miles on it, less then 100 miles put on since the gaskets and such. The guy is asking 5000, but I'm not paying over 4500 if it comes to that. Anything I should be wary of? Why go through all that work and only put on 100 miles?
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Jul 20, 2010 20:47
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CharlesM posted:Why go through all that work and only put on 100 miles? Because if it wasn't done, you couldn't ask anywhere near 5k for it. "Did you do the scheduled maintenance on the car?" "Nope" "Oh well then good luck with the sale" edit: Curious why he's asking 5k for it when KBB's valuation is 3k9 in excellent condition: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/subaru/impreza/1998/private-party-value/pricing-report?condition=fair&id=7032&equipment=265758|true&mileage=120000 Amandyke fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 20:55
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CharlesM posted:Why go through all that work and only put on 100 miles? Thats why I'm going over it like crazy haha. He says he needs the money to pay for tuition this quarter, which is very possible (I know the 'oh god I'm 4 grand short for classes that start in 2 weeks' panic) but it still raises a warning flag. That said, its exactly what I'm looking for in a 2.5 because I shouldn't have too much to worry about besides normal 12 year old car stuff. Edit: Amandyke posted:KBB value Yeah thats going to be a pretty large talking point on me talking him down. I wouldn't mind paying a bit over kbb, but 5000 is pretty ridiculous. It's also been posted on craigslist for nearly a month now, so I'm hoping cash talks. Trintintin fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 20:56
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toplitzin posted:I'm just Do you think it cracked in traffic, or had it been like that for awhile? I can't imagine you'd not be able to smell hot coolant, especially stuck in stop and go traffic.
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Jul 20, 2010 21:42
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HA! 5 grand for that car, yeah right. Every body panel had some sort of a dent on it that he couldn't justify, the right rear quarter was completely rusted through, the left rear quarter was drat close to completely rusted through, it needed a full new exhaust, the motor mounts were all sorts of super worn out, there was some serious clutch issues, the CEL was on from an o2 sensor, the sideskirts were half blown off and hanging on by a thread, and the front bumper had some serious chips in the bottom. After bringing all of this up to him, he said "4500". So the search continues.
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Jul 21, 2010 01:53
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I have been seeing lots of talk about accessory belts failing and doing nasty damage when they flail about the engine compartment, and mine are starting to show cracks. I looked around on google but the only thing I could find for a how-to was for a 2000 legacy GT, mine is the same model but just an 05. Is this set of directions the same way it is done on my car? Oh, and what do they mean by P/S?the internet posted:It's a pretty straightforward affair: Also, something broke on my glove compartment latch, the drat thing keeps popping open while I drive and the handle no longer moves the bolt. Any idea how difficult this would be to fix? I would really prefer to learn how to do it myself and avoid paying absurd amounts of money for a stupid piece of plastic.
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Jul 21, 2010 06:32
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Power Steering (I think). For simply changing the belt you should only need to loosen the tensioner then slip the belt off, but I'm not sure what else would get in the way on your car.
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Jul 21, 2010 07:56
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Changing the belts is pretty simple. Like Ephpatha said just loosen the tensioners and they should slip right off. Just BE SURE to loosen the LOCK bolts first (especially on the AC belt, so help me that retarded nylon tensioner nut can suck it). You might have to push down on the alternator to get the belt to come off, just put some weight on it, it'll swing down. In other news I've since gotten through my seafoam riddled tank of gas, cleaned my maf, replaced my air filter, replaced spark plugs and reset my ECU after all of that to see if my issues have gone away regarding that horrible DAM reading.  Click here for the full 951x691 image. Things appear to be looking very good! DAM is at 16 right now after a few 2nd-3rd gear pulls. Dynamic advance is always in the positive (even up to 12 degrees which I had no idea it could go that high). Going to give it a few days, maybe a full tank before I go back to the cobb stage 1 OTS map.
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Jul 21, 2010 18:06
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Man, I should really consider getting an APv2 (or at least a Tactrix cable). My APv1 has like no logging facilities that I can determine whatsoever. Hopefully on Sunday, I'm making a mini road trip to go to a local rally builder and get a compression/leakdown test done and my sparkplugs swapped for one step cooler (the PO left me a box of NGK iridiums). Here's hoping my engine is healthy. Is there anything other than the usual that I should get them to take a look at while I'm there? I'm planning on just asking for them to check the motor mounts really quickly to make sure that's not the source of my A/C vibration. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 18:14
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My friend says the power loss he feels when the A/C is on in his 2010 STi is extremely noticeable. Is that par for the course?
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Jul 21, 2010 19:42
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If my 06 is any indication, yes. It's a four banger after all. I suspect you can reduce it with a replacement underdrive(?) pulley but I don't know what the consequences of that are (if any).
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Jul 21, 2010 19:47
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Trintintin posted:HA! 5 grand for that car, yeah right. .... After bringing all of this up to him, he said "4500". Just as a point of reference, I paid 4500 for an '03 impreza ts (137k on the clock though), but then again I'm in New England...
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Jul 21, 2010 20:12
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kimbo305 posted:My friend says the power loss he feels when the A/C is on in his 2010 STi is extremely noticeable. Is that par for the course? Driving mine with the AC on is painful so yes I believe so. Just tell him to put it into S# when using the AC - assuming he's not driving around in S# like (me) a nutjob.
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Jul 21, 2010 20:31
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OWLS! posted:Just as a point of reference, I paid 4500 for an '03 impreza ts (137k on the clock though), but then again I'm in New England... Good to know, I live in NJ so it's not that far off.
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Jul 21, 2010 21:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If my 06 is any indication, yes. It's a four banger after all. I suspect you can reduce it with a replacement underdrive(?) pulley but I don't know what the consequences of that are (if any). That's what I brought up with him, but what about a tune? Is there enough wiggle room to get some extra torque from a tune with no other mods?
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Jul 21, 2010 22:45
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kimbo305 posted:That's what I brought up with him, but what about a tune? Is there enough wiggle room to get some extra torque from a tune with no other mods? I'd wait for someone who's put an underdrive pulley on their car to chime in (Amandyke?), but that would be my firm suggestion. If he's worried about warranty service for having the pulley on, it's fairly easy to swap later and I don't see SOA denying engine warranty service for an aftermarket accessory pulley. e: vvv Yeah, I think he's looking for low end torque. My main driveability concerns are that the A/C makes it bog when I pull away from lights; my understanding is that the WRX engine is basically handing out an avalanche of torque once the turbo is going, but before that there's not a huge load you can tune for. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 22:52
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kimbo305 posted:That's what I brought up with him, but what about a tune? Is there enough wiggle room to get some extra torque from a tune with no other mods? You mean like this? http://cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4503  Stage 1 == No mods.
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Jul 21, 2010 22:53
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Trintintin posted:HA! 5 grand for that car, yeah right. Every body panel had some sort of a dent on it that he couldn't justify, the right rear quarter was completely rusted through, the left rear quarter was drat close to completely rusted through, it needed a full new exhaust, the motor mounts were all sorts of super worn out, there was some serious clutch issues, the CEL was on from an o2 sensor, the sideskirts were half blown off and hanging on by a thread, and the front bumper had some serious chips in the bottom. After bringing all of this up to him, he said "4500". Good luck with the search. To give you an idea. Three years ago, I paid $4200 private party for my 1999 Impreza 2.5RS. No rust, no mods, all stock. It had 160k on the chassis with and engine rebuild around 130k. They are out there... You're going to be fighting against the idea that the car is "rare" and desirable now. Personally, I'd stay away from the '98s and shoot for an '00 or '01.
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Jul 21, 2010 23:00
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To be honest, I'm starting to see 99RSes with medium-high mileage being resold for more than high-mileage 02-04 WRXes. They are rare, particularly in Canada where the easy accessibility of JDM turbo engines makes an unsafe swap pretty easy. That said, GF wagon prices are probably as low as they're going to get, and they're still great rallycross cars. I'd buy a GF over a GC chassis and swap in JDM WRX wagon parts, but that's probably just because I love wagons. Once I get the room, I plan to pick up a 97-01 OBS with dings and dents and work it up. The lowest-priced Subarus in my area seem to be late 90s Foresters; you can pick up one with huge miles and a blown head gasket for under a grand (extremely rare for any import car to be this cheap in AB). The GC is an incredibly sexy Subaru though; even the four-door 00-01 models have a great look to them. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 21, 2010 |
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Jul 21, 2010 23:14
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I certainly wouldn't say no if someone gave me the keys to a 22b...
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Jul 21, 2010 23:26
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Amandyke posted:You mean like this? http://cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4503 God loving damnit I need to get an AP.
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Jul 21, 2010 23:38
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GC's go for stupid money here in New England. I actually think if my car were a GC instead of a bugeye I'd get more money if/when I try and sell it.
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Jul 22, 2010 00:15
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Slow is Fast posted:GC's go for stupid money here in New England. I actually think if my car were a GC instead of a bugeye I'd get more money if/when I try and sell it. You probably would, everyones really turned on to the idea of RSTI's it seems and any clean bodied gc is going for crazy prices. I'm not even locked into wanting a 2.5, it just fits in my price range of 5 grand. Ideally I would love a bugeye wagon with around 100k miles on it, but from what I've seen those can't be had for under $7,000 or 170k+ miles. I've been living on craiglook and nasioc but no luck yet.
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Jul 22, 2010 00:37
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kimbo305 posted:My friend says the power loss he feels when the A/C is on in his 2010 STi is extremely noticeable. Is that par for the course? I think a bit6 of it is heatsoak. 100F+A/C=pulled on by VW buses.
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Jul 22, 2010 00:58
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Starting to think I should just start a thread for my ongoing checking and rechecking/logging of my car... Drove home after work today and the car is maintaining a DAM of 16. Click here for the full 1159x842 image. No retarded timing, AFR's look good. Gotta love a healthy, happy motor.
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Jul 22, 2010 01:36
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I got the stereotypical P0420 code on my '04 Subaru Outback Wagon. Obvious guess is bad O2 sensor since the car has about 130k miles on it. I've never changed an O2 sensor. Is this something that I could do easily? I understand I'll need an O2 socket. Should I just replace both the front and rear O2 sensor?
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Jul 23, 2010 16:18
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c355n4 posted:I got the stereotypical P0420 code on my '04 Subaru Outback Wagon. Obvious guess is bad O2 sensor since the car has about 130k miles on it. I've never changed an O2 sensor. Is this something that I could do easily? I understand I'll need an O2 socket. Should I just replace both the front and rear O2 sensor? If it's anything like my WRX was, it's easy as hell. You just have to open an access panel in the front passenger side wheel well. You can go to autozone and rent an O2 socket for free. They charge you for the tool and then refund the money when you return it. The only issue I had was getting the line out of all the little plastic clips and I broke like half of them. Other than that, I think the job took me all of 20 minutes.
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Jul 23, 2010 16:27
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bull3964 posted:All the '11 WRX and STI reviews are hitting today and is making me anxious for when I can buy one. In all, nothing TOO revolutionary about the two models, but they've both been tweaked for the better in the handling department. I'm looking to buy an 09/10 WRX and debating if I should wait a few months for the 2010's to drop due to the 2011's arriving or whether I should just go ahead and get an 09 for around $21K or $22K. Was there a big difference between an 09 and 10 like the 40 HP between the 08 and 09? E: But I'm reading the 08 may be underrated on paper? But Edmunds ran the 08 WRX to a 5.9 0-60, while the 2009's are rated at 4.5-4.7 or so. I'd much rather get the faster one, but if the 08's are underrated, then I'd go that route, due to the price. Regnevelc fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 21:29
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09-11 wrx are all pretty much the same. 08 has a smaller turbo and lovely tires among other things
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Jul 25, 2010 22:39
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The biggest difference is in the body work which is largely aesthetic but it has some advantages. The widebody fenders allow it to have a 1.3 in wider track than the 2010 models and has allowed them to use a wider wheel so 235's are the standard rubber now. They also included slightly stiffer rear bushings for the 2011 models Inside, they've done some tweaks to the interior styling which make it feel a little more upscale and the stock audio system has bluetooth integration now (including A2DP streaming support). In all, not a huge jump, but a lot of nice small tweaks to refine the car. But yeah, the 09 and 10 models are pretty much exactly the same. Good luck trying to find a closeout '10 model though, they haven't had any around here in months. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 22:40
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That's where I am hoping my uncle can locate me one. He has a string of dealerships in VA and Maryland, so I should get a good deal on it regardless. I think I'd rather have an 09 just given it'll be cheaper and the same as an 10.
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Jul 25, 2010 23:03
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The 2010 wrx does have roughly 20 more hp than the 2009 due to increased boost/better stock tune, if that's important to you.
blargle fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 23:22
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blargle posted:The 2010 wrx does have roughly 20 more hp than the 2009 due to increased boost/better stock tune, if that's important to you. So, it's pushing 285? It's not to terribly important to go from 265 to 285, but the 225hp WRX seems very underpowered.
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Jul 25, 2010 23:56
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Kageneko posted:This weekend I went trunk swapping. Looks good. I have always loved that big STi wing.
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Jul 26, 2010 00:45
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Well the loving dealership never called me back then sold the car, but it was a blessing. I found another 03 one owner blue Forester only this one has 40k fewer miles and all receipts for everything and it is cheaper. I've committed to buying it though it may take some time to actually get it. That said, it has 79k on the stock EJ25. Will I be satisfied with the 165hp or whatever it is or are there some easy non invasive mods that will make it a more fun car? There doesn't seem to be much love for the Foresters around here. Did I make a mistake? 
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Jul 26, 2010 07:27
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It's still an impreza underneath, but a non-turbo is going to be pretty slow. I think you can reflash them now but it won't be much of a change. We put a downpipe intake and tuned an fxt the other day and picked up something like 60whp.
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Jul 26, 2010 07:48
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toplitzin posted:My 02 WRX wagon started overheating while sitting in a traffic jam. I got off the highway and got some fresh air and the temp started dropping. I took it to my mechanic yesterday after checking and seeing no coolant in the reservoir. You didn't get another stock Subaru radiator did you?
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Jul 26, 2010 08:53
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jamal posted:It's still an impreza underneath, but a non-turbo is going to be pretty slow. I think you can reflash them now but it won't be much of a change. You can reflash '05+ NAs. Nothing prior.
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Jul 26, 2010 14:31
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Well, I found a good deal on an 09 Subaru, but it is a good 500 miles from me  . I have no problem buying a car that way, but I'd like to inspect and test-drive it first. Kind of hard to do that.E: Read reviews about the dealership.. maybe I know why it's such a good deal. Looks to be a sleazy organization .
Regnevelc fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 16:07
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