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Korwen posted:I have never used Simple Green to strip plastic minis, and I am about to need to. Do you use it diluted or not? Do you do the whole "toothbrush until it's clean" and then wash it off with some warm soapy water and then call it a day? How good of a job will this do of getting my minis back to pre-crappy undercoat condition? Don't dilute it, just toss em in tupperware and pour in the simple green. Leave them in for a couple days and take a metal brush to them (that's what I do and it doesn't hurt them at all) and they should be fine. Paint will cling to plastic ones but the metal ones will be nearly pristine.
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Jul 26, 2010 01:10
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Nice work kingmob, simple and extremely effective!
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Jul 26, 2010 01:22
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Korwen posted:I have never used Simple Green to strip plastic minis, and I am about to need to. Do you use it diluted or not? Do you do the whole "toothbrush until it's clean" and then wash it off with some warm soapy water and then call it a day? How good of a job will this do of getting my minis back to pre-crappy undercoat condition? If you want to get rid of the undercoat as well, and have access to a Dollar Tree, I'd actually recommend LA's Totally Awesome over Simple Green if you don't mind of disposing of the stuff properly: LA's is a little different, and will eat through primer quite quickly as well as paint. If you just want stuff that you can throw down the drain after wards though, stick with Simple Green.
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Jul 26, 2010 07:00
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Cross Postin' Dis:  I'm having a really fun time painting piggly wigglies:   
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Jul 26, 2010 14:53
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KingMob posted:Cross-posting from the Warmahordes oath thread: They are ace. What is your recipe for the greens?
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Jul 26, 2010 18:02
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Mr Beens posted:They are ace. No recipe per se, just straight paint colours shaded with Army Painter Quickshade Strong Tone. Wedgewood Green (Ceramcoat) Khaki Tan (Americana) Rosewood (Americana) Army Painter Desert Yellow primer/basecoat spray. Metallics, and all other minor colours (Ceramcoat) Yep, cheapo paints all the way.
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Jul 26, 2010 20:20
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How do you protect metal models from oxidisation? Is it just priming? Ive had some Squigs for about 2 years in the same box as a Skarsnik I bought a few weeks ago and the Skarsnik is already decaying but the Squigs look brand new. My Casket of Souls really took a rapid nosedive before I whacked some paint on it aswell, but my Ushabti were fine. Is it just the specific composition in that particular metal that defines how fast it will decay, or is it something else? I like to have my minis unprimed until I am ready to paint them.
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Jul 26, 2010 22:56
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I dont think oxidation really makes any difference, Ive primed yellow looking models and they dont have any surface damage
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Jul 26, 2010 23:05
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Question on varnish, I decided to try and be cheap about it and picked up a can of clear flat varnish at Home Depot. I've never used it before so I tried spraying it on some old test minis but it seemed to do two things i didn't want. It didn't seem to coat all that well and metal seemed to become more of a flat Grey instead of metallic. Any suggestions for getting an even coat and did the varnish I get was totally wrong for the job?
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Jul 27, 2010 00:34
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Question on varnish, I decided to try and be cheap about it and picked up a can of clear flat varnish at Home Depot. I've never used it before so I tried spraying it on some old test minis but it seemed to do two things i didn't want. It didn't seem to coat all that well and metal seemed to become more of a flat Grey instead of metallic. Any suggestions for getting an even coat and did the varnish I get was totally wrong for the job? No answer other than "dont be cheap". Buy testors model master gloss in the little cans for 5 dollars
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Jul 27, 2010 00:42
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PaintVagrant posted:No answer other than "dont be cheap". Buy testors model master gloss in the little cans for 5 dollars See if i can find some, around here the nearest place with model varnish is where i play but its likely not all that cheap
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Jul 27, 2010 01:02
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Ezekiel_980 posted:See if i can find some, around here the nearest place with model varnish is where i play but its likely not all that cheap It usually is carried in RC "true hobby" type stores, yanno trains and junk. If youre in the US I carry it in my store.
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Jul 27, 2010 01:39
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How would I go about stripping fully assembled temple guard that have been prime/basecoated in Krylon Patio Furniture Red?
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Jul 27, 2010 02:00
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sansuki posted:How would I go about stripping fully assembled temple guard that have been prime/basecoated in Krylon Patio Furniture Red? lol You need to get simple green if you are talking plastic Lizards. You can chuck them in there for two nights then it will brush off using something with very stiff bristles like a smallish dog brush (my dog died but the soul still burns) or I've heard some people use steel wool.
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Jul 27, 2010 02:33
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J Bjelke-Postersen posted:lol I left them in for 3 months and came back with a wire brush, and nothing. I think they are chemically bonded. Not my painting, told a friend I would help him strip them.
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Jul 27, 2010 02:45
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Ok you hosed then afaik
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Jul 27, 2010 02:45
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Yeah I think anything strong enough to strip enamel or whatever the gently caress that dude used will probably wreck the models
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Jul 27, 2010 02:51
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I don't know where I want to go with this guy. The green is okay, and the stomach is on it's way, but how can I make the face pop better?  Also, my first Krylon white primered model!
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Jul 27, 2010 03:07
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Hey dudes  SCI FI GREATCOATS IN DIS BITCH     
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Jul 27, 2010 03:15
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Gonna need a bunch of those mind flayer heads.
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Jul 27, 2010 03:46
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sansuki posted:How would I go about stripping fully assembled temple guard that have been prime/basecoated in Krylon Patio Furniture Red? LA's Totally Awesome is probably your last resort.
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Jul 27, 2010 03:46
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sansuki posted:How would I go about stripping fully assembled temple guard that have been prime/basecoated in Krylon Patio Furniture Red? You can't. Krylon's patio furniture paints do, in fact, chemically bond to the surface of plastics. The paint itself has small levels of the same chemicals that plastic cement has, which of course bonds the pigment forever. If you really want to save them... Well, e-Bay them and get some money for them at least. Sorry buddy. 
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Jul 27, 2010 04:10
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Is the paint thick as all get out? Can we see a photo to scrutinise and then laugh at?
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Jul 27, 2010 04:13
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Quick question about bases: do people usually put ballast/flocking on the clear plastic flight bases, or are they left as clear plastic? Most bases I've seen are clear, but I chalk that up to the painter also being too lazy to finish (or sometimes start) painting their models. Will they look unfinished without a proper basing, or is the clear plastic the better way to go?
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Jul 27, 2010 05:52
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Whats a good recipe for a cool grey that pairs well with bright orange? Also turquoise and dark purple yay or nay?
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Jul 27, 2010 06:14
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Two Headed Calf posted:Also turquoise and dark purple yay or nay? i've done it, after your first 30 bretonnian knights you start running out of color combinations. it looks good but I wouldn't do a whole army that way.
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Jul 27, 2010 06:18
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Jul 27, 2010 07:02
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Ok, who makes the underwater chaos dwarf looking dudes, those are awesome?
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Jul 27, 2010 15:05
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Mr.Booger posted:Ok, who makes the underwater chaos dwarf looking dudes, those are awesome? http://www.fantization.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=25 http://cavalcadewargames.com/cavalcade/Dragonblood_Dark_Mariners.html Pretty awesome miniatures indeed, though the 3 he posted are the only 3 they have made so far.
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Jul 27, 2010 17:20
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Anyone have a good recipe for batch painting flesh, particularly faces? It's about time I get some of these drat guardsmen going.
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Jul 27, 2010 18:11
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Gonna be looking to buy some paints from you tomorrow PV! Gotta get some painting done up ins.
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Jul 27, 2010 18:30
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Jarofmoldymayo posted:Gonna be looking to buy some paints from you tomorrow PV! Cool, Im getting a bunch of new poo poo tomorrow, finishing off most of the p3 range (I think I might have every paint, but Im not 100%) and some new warmachine toys, etc.
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Jul 27, 2010 18:38
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uncle jimbo posted:Anyone have a good recipe for batch painting flesh, particularly faces? It's about time I get some of these drat guardsmen going. I've seen a few people advocate Dheneb Stone foundation washed with Ogryn Flesh as a good way to batch paint flesh. Test it out on a model beforehand though in case you feel like it needs layers of Elf Flesh or w/e. v  v
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Jul 27, 2010 19:40
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bhsman posted:I've seen a few people advocate Dheneb Stone foundation washed with Ogryn Flesh as a good way to batch paint flesh. Test it out on a model beforehand though in case you feel like it needs layers of Elf Flesh or w/e. v Dheneb Stone then washed with gryphonne sepia or devlan mud (depending on the skin tone you want) works well for me.
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Jul 27, 2010 19:42
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vomit brown with a coat of your favorite wash works really well too. vomit is essentially the same color as the old bronzed flesh that I think they have discontinued outside of the starter set for whatever reason
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Jul 27, 2010 19:49
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Tadhg posted:Quick question about bases: do people usually put ballast/flocking on the clear plastic flight bases, or are they left as clear plastic? I like to cover the bottom with a small amount of really, really wispy cotton and dry-brush it a sandy light brown. It gives the look of kicked up dust. PaintVagrant posted:Cool, Im getting a bunch of new poo poo tomorrow, finishing off most of the p3 range (I think I might have every paint, but Im not 100%)
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Jul 27, 2010 19:56
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I know that superglue dissolves stryofoam, but spray varnish won't, will it? I don't want to gently caress up a whole bunch of scenery...
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Jul 27, 2010 20:38
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most aerosol sprays do melt foam as far as I've experienced it, just try a quick test spray on a scrap piece OR make sure you cover every square inch of foam in glue and paint so that the spray can't affect it one way or the other.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:42
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enri posted:most aerosol sprays do melt foam as far as I've experienced it, just try a quick test spray on a scrap piece OR make sure you cover every square inch of foam in glue and paint so that the spray can't affect it one way or the other. Think I'll just get some brush-on. Safer.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:45
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The melting is usually caused by the propellants in the cans so i would wager that the varnish would so the same, still give it a test on something.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:47
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