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I just bought a Diana F+ with 35mm back and bought three rolls of 800 35mm film and three rolls of 200 120 film. Now, I'm wondering at how much light these films actually need. I brought my first 35mm roll to the photo lab to see how it went but it'll take another week for me to get it back. I assume that 800 ISO is capable of getting enough light in a normal snapshot during the day with the lowest aperture setting. But what if I use the pinhole function for several minutes while shooting the flash 10+ times(at night in my room)? Would that cause the film to be overexposed? The manual says to do it like that but then I realized that's for 120 film.
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Jul 24, 2010 15:36
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If you don't want to invest in a light meter, and I wouldn't for a Diana, you should play around with a chart like this to get an idea of what ranges you should be looking at.
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Jul 24, 2010 16:14
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NeilPerry posted:I just bought a Diana F+ with 35mm back and bought three rolls of 800 35mm film and three rolls of 200 120 film. I was surprised how fast the Diana would over expose on pinhole 'mode'. Shooting inside in a badly lit room only required ~3 minutes of exposure. In any case you can use this to figure it out. If you have an iPhone it's a godsend for lo-fi photography because you can use it to calculate exposures etc.
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Jul 24, 2010 17:27
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Martytoof posted:Do we HAVE fans, or do we USE fans? When I let film dry, I try to use a different bathroom because of the amount of dust stirred up by opening and closing the door.
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Jul 24, 2010 18:40
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In the 35mm roll of Ilford Delta 400 I just developed, the whole film is like this An image  A frame  Some frames are totally unaffected but in general, it's almost fine at the beginning of the film and totally unacceptable towards the end - this is from the middle. I am hoping this is to do with the film leader retriever I used rather than that my camera is leaking? Zegnar fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 22:03
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Zegnar posted:In the 35mm roll of Ilford Delta 400 I just developed, the whole film is like this I dont think it is the leader retreiver. Looks like light leaks to me, possible uneven development, maybe the roll stuck together a little in the tank?
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Jul 24, 2010 23:05
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fronkpies posted:I dont think it is the leader retreiver. I've looked through all the photos and the line is at the same point in every frame... looks like a camera light leak or sticky shutter 
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Jul 24, 2010 23:48
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If you feel like experimenting and have some film to burn you could try finding a scene that will be roughly properly exposed at 1s, setting your camera to BULB mode with the lens cap on, firing the shutter, uncovering the lens, covering the lens after a second, then letting the shutter close in darkness. That would at least tell you if its the shutter or not. Obviously you'll get camera shake when putting the cap on, but you're not really worried about image quality, just light leaks.
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Jul 25, 2010 00:51
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Martytoof posted:If you feel like experimenting and have some film to burn you could try finding a scene that will be roughly properly exposed at 1s, setting your camera to BULB mode with the lens cap on, firing the shutter, uncovering the lens, covering the lens after a second, then letting the shutter close in darkness. That would at least tell you if its the shutter or not. I am tempted to rule out a shutter failure since the fogging goes over the sprocket holes... and yet the fogging is at the same place in every frame in which it appears...
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Jul 25, 2010 03:27
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Oh yeah, huh -- weird. Good point though. Only other thing would be a light leak at the loading seals, but then wouldn't the film be exposed to pure white if the light is just leaking in all the time? A mystery! 
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Jul 25, 2010 03:44
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*sigh* Just had Babby's first film jam on my Nikon F5. I must have loaded it wrong. Anyway, I'm gonna get the film developed and see what turns out (if anything). 
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Jul 25, 2010 04:36
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Martytoof posted:Oh yeah, huh -- weird. Good point though. Only other thing would be a light leak at the loading seals, but then wouldn't the film be exposed to pure white if the light is just leaking in all the time? The lines also have no relation to the shutter speed used of the length of time between the shots... and yet they are at the same sprocket hole on every frame. at £20 a camera body I've just ordered a new one
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Jul 25, 2010 13:08
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Why would a black & white photograph start getting a purple-ish hue? I think I didn't leave the paper at the fixer long enough, the final photographs I made are becoming purple and red in certain spots. I'm doing this for a school class and my teacher thinks I took the god drat photos to a professional photographer. Somehow I don't think a pro would gently caress up like I did.
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Jul 25, 2010 13:24
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Maverique posted:Why would a black & white photograph start getting a purple-ish hue? I think I didn't leave the paper at the fixer long enough, the final photographs I made are becoming purple and red in certain spots. I'm doing this for a school class and my teacher thinks I took the god drat photos to a professional photographer. I recall someone in my class making their photo purple somehow, I'm pretty sure it had to do with fixer and not enough time in it.
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Jul 25, 2010 15:55
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So I'm thinking about buying a roll of Kodachrome and shooting it before Dwayne's stops processing them. I feel like I'll miss out if I don't. Anything I ought to know beforehand? Is there a better place than eBay to find it? I've done some Googling but haven't turned up anything good.
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Jul 25, 2010 22:34
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The Affair posted:So I'm thinking about buying a roll of Kodachrome and shooting it before Dwayne's stops processing them. I feel like I'll miss out if I don't. Bear in mind you're paying about $25 for the pleasure once you factor in the roll of film, Dwayne's processing cost (not including any scans), and shipping both ways. It's a slide film, so don't overexpose.
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Jul 25, 2010 22:50
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The Affair posted:So I'm thinking about buying a roll of Kodachrome and shooting it before Dwayne's stops processing them. I feel like I'll miss out if I don't. tonelok fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 23:14
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Stregone posted:I recall someone in my class making their photo purple somehow, I'm pretty sure it had to do with fixer and not enough time in it. Not enough fix could do that. Also, contaminated developer could cause it as well. Like if stop or fix gets splashed in your developing tray. That's one of the problems with communal darkrooms, especially when there are a bunch of beginning printers all in close quarters... keep your developer tray covered.
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Jul 26, 2010 01:07
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McMadCow posted:That's one of the problems with communal darkrooms, especially when there are a bunch of beginning printers all in close quarters... keep your developer tray covered. Somewhat related tip: develop your prints face-down. You should be timing your development anyway to ensure consistency, and it gives you at least a little bit of protection when some idiot flips open their cell phone.
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Jul 26, 2010 04:23
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How can someone flip open a cell in a communal darkroom and not catch a tank to the back of the head?
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Jul 26, 2010 09:17
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Students. Monitoring the darkroom at my university gave me an aversion to using chemistry that someone else has even looked at, much less opened and used, much less working next to them in the dark ("i thought it was only sensitive to sunlight").
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Jul 26, 2010 09:48
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Reichstag posted:Students. Monitoring the darkroom at my university gave me an aversion to using chemistry that someone else has even looked at, much less opened and used, much less working next to them in the dark ("i thought it was only sensitive to sunlight"). My head just exploded. How can anyone be this dense?
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Jul 26, 2010 10:17
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To be fair I think they meant it to just mean very bright light (I hope). There were lots of people who were fine, but for every one who knew what they were doing, there was another pouring fixer down the drain. In other news, I bought 3 rolls of kodachrome, and can't wait to shoot them.
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Jul 26, 2010 10:21
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Also going to jump on shooting 2 rolls of Kodachrome before it dies, what sort of prices are people paying for a roll?
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Jul 26, 2010 10:42
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I just bought 2 rolls of 36 exp that expired in march for $12.50 a roll. I plan to shoot it in Yosemite.
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Jul 26, 2010 16:07
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So the lab scratched all of my negs, and the result looks like this: I'm definitely going back to complain, but it's not like they can make the negatives scratchless again, and I can't go back and reshoot what was on them. I suck badly at post-processing, so if anyone can offer any help, it is greatly appreciated. I'm so loving angry right now, and I even took the films to a well respected local lab instead of the one-hour next door.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:03
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Rixatrix posted:So the lab scratched all of my negs, and the result looks like this: I'll give this a quick blast. loving annoying though, a high end lab should not be scratching your stuff.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:11
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Rixatrix posted:So the lab scratched all of my negs, and the result looks like this: This could be an easy job for content aware spot brush - the scratches are so thin.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:11
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Thanks to both of you! I'll see if I can find the content aware spot brush in my newly-downloaded trial version CS5, so I can get to fixing my favourite pictures at least.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:20
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Rixatrix posted:Thanks to both of you! I'll see if I can find the content aware spot brush in my newly-downloaded trial version CS5, so I can get to fixing my favourite pictures at least. Great photograph by the way.
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Jul 26, 2010 18:28
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Thanks! I was considering making it my first PAD photo
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Jul 26, 2010 18:30
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Also going to jump on shooting 2 rolls of Kodachrome before it dies, what sort of prices are people paying for a roll?
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Jul 26, 2010 18:52
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GWBBQ posted:$18 a roll for stuff that doesn't expire until August, it was about $12 for expired and allegedly cold stored stuff. I shot some K25 that had expired in 1992, let it rattle around in my backpack for a few months in Southeast Asia, sit on my shelf for a year, and it came out okay if a little bit faded.
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Jul 26, 2010 19:08
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Rixatrix posted:Thanks! I was considering making it my first PAD photo  If you post your email I'll send the high res.
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Jul 26, 2010 19:16
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High res recieved! Thanks so much!
Rixatrix fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 19:23
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I love film so much that I make infographics about it Click here for the full 1275x1650 image.
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Jul 27, 2010 07:15
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Just got two rolls of Kodachrome back from their round trip from Scotland -> Switzerland -> US and back again. Only charged 7.50 GBP for processing and shipping back to me.  I can't believe how good the slides look held up to the sunlight, tempted to skive off for the day and go and scan them right away.
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Jul 27, 2010 10:21
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Spedman posted:Just got two rolls of Kodachrome back from their round trip from Scotland -> Switzerland -> US and back again. Only charged 7.50 GBP for processing and shipping back to me. Where did you buy yours from? I'm confused, some of the rolls appear to be process paid, is that including sending it away?
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Jul 27, 2010 16:27
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Where did you buy yours from? Back in the old days, it used to be that rolls bought in the US did not have processing paid, because of a US ruling that locking film sales with processing was anticompetitive, whereas rolls bought in the rest of the world were process-paid. I imagine that's falling apart now, though. And I wonder if I'll have to pay processing for my Swedish-bought roll.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:09
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Where did you buy yours from? I bought mine through an amazon reseller just by looking through google shopping a few months ago. The films were from the US so they had no pre-paid condition on them, so I just sent some Euros to Switzerland with the film and Kodak sorted out the rest.
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Jul 27, 2010 21:15
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