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Since this seems to be the place for Volvo chat I might as well ask for help here. I have a 88 Volvo 240 that I am having weird problems with, it will hesitate or stall while accelerating / under load. Previously It was only doing so after decelerating or stopping suddenly, almost as if the car wanted to keep going however one cold night after work the car started to stall accelerating as well as decelerating. I did the standard guff including checking fuses, vacuum lines and making sure the connectors where clean and no joy however after reading a bit I came to the conclusion that something was going on with the fuel regulator, plus after doing the suggested check of looking for fuel in the vacuum line and finding no liquid but smelling a strong fuel smell while revving the engine with the vacuum line off I came to the conclusion that it was a dodgy fuel regulator. Well AU$150 later and while the symptoms are not as bad as they where before they are still there. Took it for a drive and found that from a stopped start the engine started to stall at about 1200 rpm and while moving at about 50 km/h the car will stall at 2k rpm. Any suggestions? Just please don't say AMM.....they cost lots. 
Sardikar fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 08:38
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Sardikar posted:Since this seems to be the place for Volvo chat I might as well ask for help here. AMM's are like $40 at the yard dude! Or check tbricks. There's usually somebody selling a tested and working one every now and then. Not saying it's the problem, but if it turns out to be, then this is your solution.
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Jul 26, 2010 08:51
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Ok so I got all the nuts off of the header, well had a bolt come out with a nut bust was able to separate them easily enough. Now I've got a turbo and all this other stuff in the way of pulling the header back. I really don't want to remove stuff like oil lines to the turbo and all that, what can I get away with removing to get the header off of the bolts so I can clean it and the block up for the new gaskets?
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Jul 26, 2010 16:42
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Some questions, trying to prepare for picking my Diesel V70 up: Seen loads of recommendations to put Mobil 1 in. Prepared to do so & pay, but what grade? How do I get the colour code out of my VIN - is it the last 3 digits? edit: is there an online manual, 'cause that'd save me pestering you lot a whole bunch. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 20:24
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Usually the paint code is on the metal data plate riveted to the inside of the fender in the engine compartment or top of a shock tower. It has stuff like the VIN, place of manufacture, etc listed on it. On an 850 I think it is on the left side of the car near the battery; I don't know if they changed it with the s/v cars. You can cross reference the number with the name listed at http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/paint_colour_codes.shtml to see if it sounds like you have the right code. Here's the owner's manual for the 99 s/v70: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1999/1999_SV70/99sv70_000.htm It's for the US domestic model though, so it won't have any info on diesels in it. It's a start I guess, someone else can probably point you in the right direction. pants in my pants fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 20:51
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Sardikar posted:Any suggestions? Just please don't say AMM.....they cost lots. Sounds kinda like AMM. My 016 was, if I recall correctly, $25 from pick and pull and I paid an extra $3 to return it for a full refund if it was defective or if I didn't need it. There's a thermostat in your airbox that regulates hot air into your intake. These thermostats fail into the full hot air mode that can damage your AMM. You should take care of that first before buying another AMM and possibly ruining it.
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Jul 26, 2010 21:40
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I'm thinking about buying an 1800S (specifically this one http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/1862040655.html) and I was wondering what trouble spots I should look for and what owning one is like in terms of reliability/livability
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Jul 27, 2010 00:13
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Got a Curt Manufactoring towing hitch put on my V70 today..they did an awesome job. It is tucked nicely under the bumper, can't even see the towbar. Being black, both the car and the hitch, it looks really smooth. Not bad for about $300 all said and done.
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Jul 27, 2010 07:18
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1969MIB posted:Sounds kinda like AMM. My 016 was, if I recall correctly, $25 from pick and pull and I paid an extra $3 to return it for a full refund if it was defective or if I didn't need it. I don't have to worry about the thermostat since I don't believe I even have one in my air box, there was a flap in there with nothing attached so I glued it closed and just have the pipe sitting there. Makes the car a bit thirsty on colder winter days down here in Victoria but otherwise it runs fine. I purchased the car in Brisbane on ebay for $500 WITH a road worthy certificate. Obviously the road worthy was dodgy as hell since it had been in a crash and the front panels and hood are from the wrong type of Volvo, not to mention the front lights and indicators where not plugged in and installed right. However it is very clean inside the highly recommended VolPro mechanic who works in the Brisbane area recognized it from previous work he has done on it and said it is one of the best examples of a 240 of its age on the road in Australia today in spite of the fact that the previous P plate owner ran into a poll an wrote it off. Hell I have driven the car all the way from Brisbane to Melbourne and it didn't even break a sweat where I live now and done a couple of long trips in the meantime, even if the very end of the exhaust system rusted then fell off as I drove down and is now sitting on the side of the road somewhere in country N.S.W. Anyway the original AMM went about 8 months ago and I got a junk yard replacement which they price gouged me $300, was some place near Brisbane air port. Now I am in Victoria in Frankston and I think I have found a wreckers near me in Langwarrin who might have what I need. I just hope I don't get price gouged like I was before. Sardikar fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Jul 27, 2010 |
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Jul 27, 2010 08:11
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Sardikar posted:I purchased the car in Brisbane on ebay for $500 WITH a road worthy certificate. Obviously the road worthy was dodgy as hell since it had been in a crash and the front panels and hood are from the wrong type of Volvo, not to mention the front lights and indicators where not plugged in and installed right. However it is very clean inside the highly recommended VolPro mechanic who works in the Brisbane area recognized it from previous work he has done on it and said it is one of the best examples of a 240 of its age on the road in Australia today in spite of the fact that the previous P plate owner ran into a poll an wrote it off. I and probably others wish to see your strange-sounding Frankenstein's Volvo from the side, the front, and an angled front view. Thanks in advance.
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Jul 27, 2010 13:24
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Splizwarf posted:I and probably others wish to see your strange-sounding Frankenstein's Volvo from the side, the front, and an angled front view. Thanks in advance. Bah! This means I have to wash it now. 
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Jul 27, 2010 13:45
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threepac posted:I'm thinking about buying an 1800S (specifically this one http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/1862040655.html) and I was wondering what trouble spots I should look for and what owning one is like in terms of reliability/livability They're a great car, comfortable, user friendly and bulletproof reliable, they require vastly more maintenance than a modern car but it's all cheap and easy to do yourself, mostly just tinkering and lubricating, checking fluids more often. First recommendation is to swap out the points for electronic ignition if it hasn't been done already. If you've been shopping for one of these you'll notice that there are a lot of beaters out there, that's because they will just keep running and running while the car falls apart around the drivetrain. Second thing to watch for on that car is to not believe him about the "no rust". Have it inspected very thoroughly by someone who knows vintage Volvos. If he has a believable back story, like the car spent its life on the west coast and it's only been back east for a year, then maybe you'll get lucky. But true rust free examples are pretty rare. If the car really has overdrive in 3rd (it shouldn't), then be very careful that it doesn't engage in lower gears, and especially reverse. If the overdrive is on and the car is put into reverse, just letting out the clutch will junk the transmission. I suspect he just doesn't know what he's talking about but be very careful that the switch is in the off position when you back up, until you confirm that the OD is locked out properly. It's just an electrical switch that keeps it from working in any gear but 4th and if that switch fails closed then it's a time bomb. You're asking about livability and reliability, are you planning to daily drive the thing? If so I can't endorse that idea. These cars, especially in good condition, are getting more and more rare, and I'd hate to see another one just get used up instead of preserved.
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Jul 27, 2010 16:03
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LloydDobler posted:They're a great car, comfortable, user friendly and bulletproof reliable, they require vastly more maintenance than a modern car but it's all cheap and easy to do yourself, mostly just tinkering and lubricating, checking fluids more often. First recommendation is to swap out the points for electronic ignition if it hasn't been done already. If you've been shopping for one of these you'll notice that there are a lot of beaters out there, that's because they will just keep running and running while the car falls apart around the drivetrain. Thanks for all the information. I had planned on daily driving it (I only do about 6-8 thousand miles a year); I figured with proper care and maintenance I could keep it going in near-perfect condition for a long time, given how bulletproof the B18 and M40/41 are (with the exception of that switch you mentioned)
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Jul 27, 2010 16:40
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Here's a classic that someone in the thread might want: 1967 Volvo 122S All original - $3500  Click here for the full 1175x1035 image.
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Jul 27, 2010 22:42
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^ too rusty, worth $2000 max.threepac posted:(I only do about 6-8 thousand miles a year) Alright, I'll let it slide then.  Ignore me, I'm just projecting anyway. Here's my post from that thread about writing letters to the previous owner, which explains where my misplaced disapproval was coming from: LloydDobler posted:The previous owner was alright, this is to the guy before him. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:18 on May 18, 2022 |
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Jul 28, 2010 05:53
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Due to my astonishing forward planning & the wonders of the British public transport system I'm going to be taking nearly a day & a half to go pick a car up from 125 miles away. gently caress this country. On the plus side it's going to be sooooo comfortable when I finally do get it.
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Jul 28, 2010 06:13
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Sardikar posted:Bah! This means I have to wash it now. It moves, its twitches, its alive! ALIVE I tell you! Well anyway when to some self serve place and got a reconditioned AMM out or a newer model 240. Only cost me $40 which is quite a bit better then the older crappy second hand one I got from that Volvo wreckers in Brisbane for $300. loving Queenslanders. Its running much much better, so much better that when I put my foot down I felt actual acceleration of all things! Its shows just how bad that old AMM was however the new fuel regulator I put in could of helped. Plus the car I got the AMM out of has the correct type of hood for my car as well as the front left and right panels in good condition in a very similar colour to mine so looks like I am going to have to save up a bit of cash go out there and spend a day on the thing getting what I can. Pics! Sorry about the crappy phone quality, will post better pics after I wash my car and find the batteries for my camera. The front, notice the incorrect hood for a 88 240.  Click here for the full 1280x1024 image. There was a big rear end dent here so I took it out the back, found a dip and jumped on the inside. I have had mixed results.  Click here for the full 1280x1024 image. At least the inside is clean.   Click here for the full 1280x1024 image. Many km's for a car of its age? 
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Jul 28, 2010 06:23
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Some more 122 candy: http://bringatrailer.com/2010/07/27/1967-volvo-122-wagon 
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Jul 28, 2010 07:48
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 I can't believe that that 122 is a Midwest car. I love the color.
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Jul 28, 2010 12:51
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So I have been having strange A/C issues lately. Being July in Atlanta and my front window switches don't work, let's just say that makes it unpleasant. 1996 non-turbo 850 wagon. Upon start-up, the air blows nice and cool. Now if I stop at a gas station, convenience store, whatever for about ten minutes, I get back in and the air starts off cold but slowly warms back up to outside temps. When I get to my destination (work) and the car sits for a couple of hours, I hop in and the air works fine. I recently charged the system with one of those do-it-yourself kits. It didn't really help the situation. A couple of weeks ago, I was waiting for my son so I just left the vehicle running since if I don't turn it off, the air works great. I fill up and pull up to the waiting area for his mom to show up and look at the gas gauge. It did not move at all. So I turned the car off for a second and started it back up and the gas gauge reset itself but the air did not blow cold anymore. It is really frustrating since I only turned the car off for about ten seconds max. Any ideas? Basically, if I never turn my car off the air blows nice and cold. As soon as I turn it off and restart, all bets are off.
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Jul 28, 2010 15:19
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peanutbutterunicorn posted:So I have been having strange A/C issues lately. Being July in Atlanta and my front window switches don't work, let's just say that makes it unpleasant. Does your model have the electronic climate control or is it just basic controls?
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Jul 28, 2010 17:43
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peanutbutterunicorn posted:So I have been having strange A/C issues lately. Being July in Atlanta and my front window switches don't work, let's just say that makes it unpleasant. I had an almost identical problem on my '01 S80. In my case the AC would run for about 10-15 minutes then start blowing warm. After that it would only do about 1-5 minutes cold before I had to turn it off and wait. At the same time my door switches died. After a month of this, the car wouldn't start. In my case it was eventually diagnosed as alternator failure.
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Jul 28, 2010 18:17
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Oxphocker posted:Does your model have the electronic climate control or is it just basic controls? Just basic controls. OrangeFurious posted:I had an almost identical problem on my '01 S80. In my case the AC would run for about 10-15 minutes then start blowing warm. After that it would only do about 1-5 minutes cold before I had to turn it off and wait. At the same time my door switches died. After a month of this, the car wouldn't start. See, as long as I don't turn the car off, the AC runs fine. When I do restart and it blows warm, I just leave it off and right before I am drowning in my sweat (about 20 minutes) I would flip it back on and it would blow cool. Sometimes. My door switches died because the seal around the windshield is cracking and there are big chunks missing, so whenever it rains water drips from the rearview mirror straight down onto the switches. They were corroded on the inside. Amazingly enough *knocks on wood* the strange electrical issues that I was having this past winter have seemed to vanish. Although it would be cool if it was just the alternator instead of trying to troubleshoot all this piddly poo poo. And not having a place to work on it sucks too, cause that means I have to get the local mechanic to fix it.
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Jul 28, 2010 18:56
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peanutbutterunicorn posted:See, as long as I don't turn the car off, the AC runs fine. When I do restart and it blows warm, I just leave it off and right before I am drowning in my sweat (about 20 minutes) I would flip it back on and it would blow cool. Sometimes. Does the compressor actually engage? I had the same issue with my 96 850, the AC clutch was worn to the point that'd it would disengage when it warmed up, but letting it cool for a few minutes would get it going again, only to disengage a minute later, but maybe yours could be worn to the point that it'll keep going if engaged while cool but wont engage if it's already hot? You can give it juice directly right from the engine compartment, bypassing the relay (which could also be bad), and you can try to engage it manually with a big stick, but if giving it power directly is a no-go you probably want a new compressor. I bought a remanufactured one for something like $160 and had it installed for $300.
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Jul 28, 2010 21:23
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'99 diesel V70 I'm picking up Saturday doesn't have a trip computer, which I'm going to sorely miss. Any options or suggestions?
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Jul 29, 2010 06:18
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Cakefool posted:'99 diesel V70 I'm picking up Saturday doesn't have a trip computer, which I'm going to sorely miss. Any options or suggestions? Cell phone apps to keep track of mileage and mpg?
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Jul 29, 2010 07:03
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Cakefool posted:'99 diesel V70 I'm picking up Saturday doesn't have a trip computer, which I'm going to sorely miss. Any options or suggestions? Pen and paper?  I keep a notebook in each car. Work done on each car goes in its book too. With dates and prices and locations and anything else relevant.
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Jul 29, 2010 08:13
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Splizwarf posted:Pen and paper? I keep a notebook but my current car has a live MPG, distance travelled / left on this tank, average speed etc. It's helped me tune my driving to get decent MPG & I'm going to need it more than ever in a V70
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Jul 29, 2010 17:07
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NOTinuyasha posted:Does the compressor actually engage? I had the same issue with my 96 850, the AC clutch was worn to the point that'd it would disengage when it warmed up, but letting it cool for a few minutes would get it going again, only to disengage a minute later, but maybe yours could be worn to the point that it'll keep going if engaged while cool but wont engage if it's already hot? You can give it juice directly right from the engine compartment, bypassing the relay (which could also be bad), and you can try to engage it manually with a big stick, but if giving it power directly is a no-go you probably want a new compressor. I bought a remanufactured one for something like $160 and had it installed for $300. Thanks for the information. I will give that a go. Also, check out what I found on Craigslist: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/1867941029.html
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Jul 29, 2010 17:27
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Ooh, nearly forgot, I think this car's got a 6-disc changer, where would that be hidden?
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Jul 29, 2010 17:45
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Cakefool posted:Ooh, nearly forgot, I think this car's got a 6-disc changer, where would that be hidden? There's probably an enclosed compartment in the boot for it. It'll be near one of the rear wheel wells.
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Jul 29, 2010 18:49
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Splizwarf posted:Pen and paper? I've got a little mini clipboard in my '85 240's glove box that's about half-height for a regular piece of paper, so I just made a quick chart in excel, print two on a piece of paper and cut it in half. Then I write down boring poo poo like "mileage start" and "mileage stop" and gas and other maintenance expenses. Then after a month you can put the numbers back into excel and it'll do your trip computing. (I only do this because I use the car as a business expense sometimes.)
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Jul 29, 2010 19:28
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Think I found a solution, this wasn't available in Europe with Imperial gallons last time I looked but seems it is now: http://www.scangauge2.co.uk/index.html OBD2 multi-gauge
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Jul 29, 2010 19:51
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Ether Frenzy posted:I've got a little mini clipboard in my '85 240's glove box that's about half-height for a regular piece of paper, so I just made a quick chart in excel, print two on a piece of paper and cut it in half. Then I write down boring poo poo like "mileage start" and "mileage stop" and gas and other maintenance expenses. I do it because I'm constantly worried about my engines and mpg-related subsystems.
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Jul 29, 2010 23:27
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Fukken Whoo! Picked the V70 up this morning, put 170 miles on it bringing it back (detour to pick up a parent) List of things wrong with it so far: 5 different tyres Only the passenger up/down works on the wing mirrors Rear discs will need changing Whole car needs a thorough clean, cut & polish Engine top mount/stabiliser bush thingy needs changing I need a new dipstick & screenwash lid SRS light needs resetting (hopefully not replacing) The load cover wasn't broken, just partially disasembled. It retracts & everything New MOT came with 2 advisories - both the left & right rear indicator lenses are discoloured. I think I can live with that.  The oil filter on this thing is huge compared to anything I've done before.
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Jul 31, 2010 18:37
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Nice looking V70
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Jul 31, 2010 20:53
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It doesn't look bad in 640x480, I agree Anyway, first on the list is tyres, I've got 5 different brands on there at the moment so I've been looking around & would like some first hand advice. 195 60 15 88h, I've had recommendations for Uniroyal Rainexpert, Dunlop Sport fast response, Pirelli P6000 & Goodyear excellence. They all seem to rate pretty evenly the only thing is the 2 local places to me say the Pirelli & Goodyears are getting scarce. Any views on the Uniroyal or Dunlops? Also, where do you UK goons get your volvo bits(other than the scrapyard)? I found GSF car parts & have used them for French cars in the past, how are they for Volvo's price/quality wise? More photo's today as I clean it out. the left side paintwork looks like it was driven through a bush
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Aug 2, 2010 10:27
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Cakefool posted:It doesn't look bad in 640x480, I agree https://www.tirerack.com Put in the model of your car and it will show you the top models related. While mostly US based, you might be able to find the same tires elsewhere. I've used the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS on my last car an S70 and liked them a lot...will probably put them on my V70R when it comes up for a tire change, but I'm trying to use up the PO's tires first.
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Aug 2, 2010 18:47
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Oxphocker posted:https://www.tirerack.com ive got those on my S60. They wear pretty fast 
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Aug 2, 2010 21:00
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blankooie posted:ive got those on my S60. They wear pretty fast Depends on how you drive and how much...
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