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LordOfThePants posted:My Great Uncle (who I learned about 40% of what I know about woodworking from) made a lot of furniture in his workshop with a Craftsman RAS and no tablesaw. I'd worked on a few projects with him when I was growing up, but it wasn't until I was older and taking on large projects by myself that I realized how impressive that was. Maybe it's because I've got a tablesaw-centric shop, but I can't imagine working without one. He made it work though and he made some beautiful furniture. I'd like to sell it and my miter saw for a nice sliding compound miter saw
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Jul 24, 2010 01:07
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JEEVES420 posted:you could make a Tambour door. Interesting, I was wondering what those types of doors are called. That could happen.
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Jul 24, 2010 15:51
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I was going to post earlier in the week but work has been crazy and I kept forgetting about it, but Menards has the Jorgensen CabinetMaster clamps on sale this week. The 24" models are $20, the 36's are $25, and the 48's are $30. I've got four 24's from an earlier sale, I picked up a couple 48's last night. I should have bought four, but Menards runs that sale every couple of months so I'm not too concerned about it. They are fantastic clamps and easily my favorites. If they're out of stock, they should give you a raincheck. I've been told Home Depot will also price match + 10% additional, but when I tried during the last sale my Home Depot told me that Menards was a "warehouse store" and they wouldn't match it. It's worth a shot to save a couple bucks on an already good price. Maybe I'll go buy a few more this afternoon...
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Jul 24, 2010 16:09
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LordOfThePants posted:Menards was a "warehouse store" Did they expand on this at all? As far as a business model goes, how is Menards any different than HD?
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Jul 24, 2010 23:57
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SkunkDuster posted:Did they expand on this at all? As far as a business model goes, how is Menards any different than HD? It's not, they were just using it as an excuse to not sell me clamps at a price that was probably either below their cost or so low they weren't willing to part with them. I didn't feel like arguing with them or trying another HD - I've seen guys saying their HD matched the price with no problem so it's worth a shot. Just don't bother at the Central Ave. store in Toledo.
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Jul 25, 2010 02:33
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JoeWindetc posted:Quoting myself, but what about kerfing the wood to achieve said shape? Anyone have any experience with this method? I happened to see another method of achieving this same shape today and thought I'd share it with you. Obviously they didn't do a real pretty job on this but it actually works out better so you can see how it's joined. Anubis fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 06:49
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I still haven't picked up a table saw even though I'm pretty sure I said I was close to doing so ages ago. But, I was in Lowe's the other day and saw this. http://www.lowes.com/pd_101711-4606...=porter%20cable I was originally looking at a Delta, but this Porter-Cable is about half the price of the Delta I was looking at. For a hobbyist/upstart like myself, would this be worth my time? I do have hopes to continue with woodworking (in some capacity) past the hobbyist level, but don't want to have to upgrade a table saw too soon. Ideally, I'd like to get around 5 years out of it before I have to replace/upgrade it.
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Jul 25, 2010 06:49
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VitaminZinc posted:I still haven't picked up a table saw even though I'm pretty sure I said I was close to doing so ages ago. But, I was in Lowe's the other day and saw this. Those type of saws are basically circular saws turned upside down with a few table saw features thrown in. They are handy when you need easy portability, like construction, but having gone through the same decision making process I decided to wait until I could buy a contractor saw and I never regretted the decision.
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Jul 25, 2010 08:49
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If you can get a laptop saw for next to nothing or free, go for it. At least you'll have something to cut wood with. Otherwise save up for a nice contractor or even cabinet saw. Osage Orange polishes up nice Edit: How is photobucket making my photos...Crappy? 
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Jul 25, 2010 16:51
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As I continue going over the various ways I can create a cheap thickness sander I keep running back to the idea of using my drill press, however the problem is I need to sand at least 12" at a time with the possibility to flipping it on alternating passes for a total length of 24". However, I haven't been able to find any drill press sanding drums that large. I was wondering what people would think if I created my own wooden drum out of ply and then added Velcro backing to it and created a sort of vertical sand flee? The largest commercial sanding drill attachment I can find is 6" in length. I suppose if anyone knows of or can track down a longer one that would be the best solution. Anubis fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jul 27, 2010 |
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Jul 27, 2010 20:14
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Well, gently caress. The motor on my lathe burnt out, right when I was starting to have fun and a cool front came in. It's actually pleasant to be "outside" in my temp shop here. So I used that as an excuse to order a Delta 46-460. gently caress me.
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Jul 27, 2010 20:43
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ChaoticSeven posted:Well, gently caress. The motor on my lathe burnt out, right when I was starting to have fun and a cool front came in. It's actually pleasant to be "outside" in my temp shop here. Depending on the model I wouldn't think it would be too hard to install a new motor. What kind of lathe was it?
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Jul 27, 2010 20:57
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An old Delta 46-111. I fixed it up and posted about in this thread somewhere, a few months ago. I have a brand new 3/4 horse Baldor 3 phase motor to replace it. I just have to order an AC drive to wire it up. I may try to sell it to offset the cost of the new lathe. The motor burning out was just a convenient excuse for me to be stupid with money.
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Jul 27, 2010 21:50
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http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/extra-long-drum-sander/ Brilliant! 2" PVC pipe with wood plugs at the top and bottom. I still haven't heard any word if extending this to 12" would cause way too much stress on the spindle, though. But I think as long as I'm not pushing hard into the base of the sander it should be fine... right?
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Jul 28, 2010 14:24
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What if you put a tailstock on the bed of the press? e: Nevermind I just saw they had one.
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Jul 28, 2010 19:33
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If you're gonna try 12" off the bat just wear a face mask, the only thing that'll happen is PVC shrapnel if anything goes wrong. Maybe use some grease on the bottom? Looks cool.
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Jul 29, 2010 14:38
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Anubis posted:http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/sanding/extra-long-drum-sander/ Nice, I like it. Now if only I had a drill press...
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Jul 29, 2010 19:32
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What is the best option for getting larger than normal lumber? Building a pergola, and would like to have an 18'x 6" x 8" beam.
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Jul 29, 2010 22:58
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unprofessional posted:What is the best option for getting larger than normal lumber? Building a pergola, and would like to have an 18'x 6" x 8" beam. You could probably find huge timbers at some special stockyard but the expense would not be worth it IMO. You can take three 2x8s and nail them together to get your desired width. Use sufficiently large nails and off set them; some kind of adhesive wouldn't hurt either dwoloz fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jul 30, 2010 |
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Jul 30, 2010 01:08
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unprofessional posted:What is the best option for getting larger than normal lumber? Building a pergola, and would like to have an 18'x 6" x 8" beam. Go to a real builder's supply store (not Lowes or HD) and ask for LVL beams.
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Jul 31, 2010 01:34
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Haha, yeah an LVL pergola, that would be ... something. How about going to a lumber supplier or sawmill and buying/ordering a beam in whatever size you want.
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Aug 2, 2010 05:11
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Anyone have a link to some good plans for some adirondack-style deck/patio furniture? It all looks fairly simple, but I have a tendency to over-engineer stuff, so I'd rather use some tried-and-true plans. Something like this would be pretty cool; I like the separate ottoman:  Simplicity is definitely key here, though. I've googled a bit, but I'm looking for some plans someone here can vouch for.
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Aug 3, 2010 17:35
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Knock Off Wood has a number of somewhat similar plans, though they tend towards the far end of the simple side, so you might want something a bit more advanced.
unprofessional fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 17:40
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone have a link to some good plans for some adirondack-style deck/patio furniture? It all looks fairly simple, but I have a tendency to over-engineer stuff, so I'd rather use some tried-and-true plans. http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0810
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Aug 3, 2010 17:51
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Awesome, thanks. Hopefully I can bust a couple of these out by the weekend.
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Aug 3, 2010 18:34
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I have all the templates for it in my shop. I make the legs out of 2-bys though.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:58
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Those plans from the new yankee workshop, can I pay the  for those and get them in a digital format, or will I have to wait a week for them to get mailed? Cause honestly, I'd rather just have a pdf or something.
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Aug 4, 2010 04:22
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You have to wait.
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Aug 4, 2010 04:47
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Bad Munki posted:Those plans from the new yankee workshop, can I pay the I have a digital version of these plans - if you promise that you have paid for the plans, post your email address and I'll send it to you. Are you looking for the original chair (202) or the trio (0810)?
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Aug 4, 2010 05:33
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone have a link to some good plans for some adirondack-style deck/patio furniture? It all looks fairly simple, but I have a tendency to over-engineer stuff, so I'd rather use some tried-and-true plans. I know you've been recommended the New Yankee plans, but just in case, here's the Popular Mechanics ones: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/2919751 I like the look of this design a bit better, it's crisper with cleaner looking lines. I've made three of these so far, fairly easy, but I would incorporate some of the New Yankee ideas for next time. For instance, using bolts and glue in some places, I just used deck screws and they haven't held up so well (red cedar is really soft). Fun project, though.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:58
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Came across this today, thought I'd share:  More can be found here: http://design-milk.com/bloq/
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Aug 4, 2010 17:03
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Lunar Park Ranger posted:I know you've been recommended the New Yankee plans, but just in case, here's the Popular Mechanics ones: I think I'm going to go with these plans, actually. There are parts of this one I like, and parts of the New Yankee Workshop ones I like, but overall, I think this has more parts I like than the other. I may make a couple very small modifications, but more or less I like it. In particular, I like the spacing of the back slats more, I like the roll on the front of the seat, and (this is small, but nice for construction) I like that the back support rail doesn't have a curved bevelled cut in it. It's just a curve, and the piece is mounted at an angle. That last is a small thing, but often, that's what it al comes down to: the small things.  Anyhow, thanks all for the suggestions. I guess now I'll need to set up a jig for my table saw so I can cut the taper on the back slats. Which is something I've been wanting to do for a while anyhow, but have just been waiting for a project to require it. 
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Aug 5, 2010 16:05
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So as it turns out 4/4 cedar is apparently unavailable where I'm at. I can't even find, say, 2x6's in cedar. Would it be okay to use 3/4, or should I laminate two 3/4 boards together to make 6/4 and use that for the parts that need to be stronger? Probably mostly just the diagonal legs of the chair, I guess. Otherwise, is there an alternative wood that would stand up to the elements reasonably well?
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Aug 5, 2010 21:55
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Bad Munki posted:Otherwise, is there an alternative wood that would stand up to the elements reasonably well? White Oak and Teak are both good outdoor woods, but would likely be far too expensive for such a project.
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Aug 5, 2010 23:51
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Yeah, my father actually mentioned teak as an option. I guess that's what they built the New Yankee one out of on the show. The difference there being that guy (on the show) has crazy hookups and is able to get large amounts of fancy, large-format used/antique wood. Myself, I don't really need an $800 patio chair.
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Aug 6, 2010 00:06
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You might try checking around for cedar fence posts, then squaring them up.
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Aug 6, 2010 08:11
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Bad Munki posted:Otherwise, is there an alternative wood that would stand up to the elements reasonably well? Mahogany and Ipe.
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Aug 6, 2010 09:44
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wormil posted:Mahogany and Ipe. Before I started woodworking as a hobby I used to laugh at the thought of a $3-400 mahogany chair. Now it almost seems downright reasonable. To actually help him: http://www.walllumber.com/lum.asp I was recommended this site on the last page and the two packs they sent me were both pretty good, well milled with few knots. You'd likely need 2 packs to complete your project but you'll have a bunch of leftovers and scraps. Anubis fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 15:58
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Okay, so my next question is, anyone see anything wrong with replacing a few slats in the backrest with different woods, sort of as a highlight? I can't imagine it'd cause any real trouble, since there's a lot of empty space in the structure so that different swelling properties and such shouldn't really matter. Just want to make sure, though.
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Aug 6, 2010 16:12
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It wouldn't matter at all. Cypress and cedar are good too. Especially cypress.
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Aug 6, 2010 18:08
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