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Crossposting from general question thread: I just bought a standalone upright freezer on Craigslist for $50. I would love, LOVE to have an ice maker, but this is an old model without the appropriate holes or existing kit. Is it possible to take any old ice maker kit and install it? Is there somewhere it is generally safe to drill an appropriate hole, without breaching to cooling system somehow?
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Jul 3, 2010 16:25
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| # ? May 12, 2024 16:49 |
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I like turtles posted:Crossposting from general question thread:
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Jul 3, 2010 16:32
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Alright, thanks. I'll poke around and see what I can find.
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Jul 3, 2010 17:25
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 Pictured above is the rusty old 1/2" pipe outside that I need to attach a spigot for a garden hose onto. The threading is too broken to screw anything onto it. I couldn't get the epoxy putty to work. I tried using a connector for a dishwasher hose, but it wasn't strong enough. What are all of my options here? Is there some secret to getting epoxy putty to work? Where do I buy one of those sharkbites I keep hearing so much about? Sorry if this is too much of a beginner question.
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Jul 6, 2010 01:14
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Aardlof posted:
If i am seeing that right its 1/2 nipple that is going through a wall? What is on the other side of the wall? Depending on what you have, i'd remove the pipe and put another nipple to replace it. You cant use a shark bite on galvanized or black iron so thats out of the question. If you cleaned up the pipe nicely you can use a shaffer coupling. ( I could have the name wrong but its a compression coupling that fits over galvy pipe.
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Jul 6, 2010 16:47
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If i am seeing that right its 1/2 nipple that is going through a wall? The pipe goes into the wall and then underground. In order to replace it I'd need to hire a professional, and I'd rather just use a quick fix even if it's not perfect. I just need to attach at hose to this thing somehow so I can water my plants. I'll look into compression couplings.
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Jul 6, 2010 18:54
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Oh i think i had the name wrong , i believe its a dresher coupling. I know they're sold at home depot. But i dont know if one would even work in your case due to the fact that the outside of that pipe isnt smooth. If you do hire a professional you will save a lot of money if you do the digging yourself.
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Jul 6, 2010 21:46
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Under my bathroom sink, down in the basement ceiling, there is a 90 degree turn where the pipe comes down from the drain and turns to run across the ceiling. There seems to be a SOLID (like concrete - I have literally beat on it with a hammer and long chisel) clog right in this 90 degree turn. It's been like this since we bought the place, but we have just been making due with waterless hand sanitizer. The pipes are old iron or whatever. What are my options?
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Jul 7, 2010 20:38
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Trident posted:Under my bathroom sink, down in the basement ceiling, there is a 90 degree turn where the pipe comes down from the drain and turns to run across the ceiling. There seems to be a SOLID (like concrete - I have literally beat on it with a hammer and long chisel) clog right in this 90 degree turn. It's been like this since we bought the place, but we have just been making due with waterless hand sanitizer. The pipes are old iron or whatever. What are my options?
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Jul 7, 2010 22:02
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Trident posted:Under my bathroom sink, down in the basement ceiling, there is a 90 degree turn where the pipe comes down from the drain and turns to run across the ceiling. There seems to be a SOLID (like concrete - I have literally beat on it with a hammer and long chisel) clog right in this 90 degree turn. It's been like this since we bought the place, but we have just been making due with waterless hand sanitizer. The pipes are old iron or whatever. What are my options? Replace the pipe if you can. And I am with grover, what are you beating on, the pipe or the clog?
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Jul 8, 2010 01:00
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thanks for looking at my issue... I can put a metal rod down in the open drain pipe (I have removed the sink) and tap it with a hammer... it kind of feels like whatever is at the top of the clog is silty, but it gets solid an inch down in. Illustration below: in order to "remove and replace" the clogged section what does that involve? Is that a DIY level procedure?
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Jul 8, 2010 18:13
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Yes you can do it yourself. But i'd rather prefer a real picture to tell what type of pipe you have and then i can give you further instructions from their. If its galvanized it will be really easy, cast iron is more of a pain but still do able.
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Jul 9, 2010 02:00
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Trident posted:thanks for looking at my issue... I can put a metal rod down in the open drain pipe (I have removed the sink) and tap it with a hammer... it kind of feels like whatever is at the top of the clog is silty, but it gets solid an inch down in. Are you sure the metal rod isn't just bottoming out at the bend?
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Jul 9, 2010 07:27
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Yeah, it isn't bottoming out in the pipe, the clogged section is a lot taller than I drew. I'll get a photo of it tonight.
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Jul 9, 2010 14:55
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Trident posted:Yeah, it isn't bottoming out in the pipe, the clogged section is a lot taller than I drew. I'll get a photo of it tonight. How old is the house? I just replaced a galvanized, 51 year old, drain that was rusted shut. It had 100% blockage that was over one foot long.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:24
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wormil posted:How old is the house? I just replaced a galvanized, 51 year old, drain that was rusted shut. It had 100% blockage that was over one foot long. House was built 1963ish.
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Jul 9, 2010 21:07
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:i believe its a dresher coupling. I know they're sold at home depot. Just hooked up a compression coupling I bought at home depot. According to the guy there it will work on galvanized pipes. It still leaks a little but it works well enough for what I need. Thanks for the help.
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Jul 10, 2010 00:19
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Aardlof posted:Just hooked up a compression coupling I bought at home depot. According to the guy there it will work on galvanized pipes. It still leaks a little but it works well enough for what I need. Thanks for the help. Where is it leaking at? Did you sand the pipe before putting it on?
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Jul 10, 2010 02:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Where is it leaking at? Did you sand the pipe before putting it on?  Here is the pipe now. It's leaking inside the wall, where the coupling covers the nipple. I cleaned it as best as I could with a steel pipe cleaning brush. The leaking is not a major problem since I turn off the water from inside the house.
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Jul 10, 2010 19:27
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Aardlof posted:
I would have used a file if you could have to clean the pipe, the smoother the surface the better. If its a temporary fix then you should be fine.
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Jul 11, 2010 03:45
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I replaced a bathroom vanity. The drain pipe and trap were crushed, so I wanted to replace that, too. The drain pipe was soldered into a larger drain pipe coming from the wall, so I un-soldered it. The problem now is that I can't find a replacement drain pipe to fit. The one coming out of the wall is copper, and its inside diameter is a little too big for 1 1/4" drain pipe, and also too small for 1 1/2" drain pipe. The outside diameter of the copper pipe is actually a tiny bit larger than 1 1/2" drain pipe. I was going to use a 1 1/2" coupling on it, but the tiny difference in size makes it impossible for the gasket on the coupling to fit on the copper pipe. Anyone got any thoughts?
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Jul 14, 2010 18:15
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Either replace it with 1 1/2 copper pipe or post a picture. I may be able to give a better idea.
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Jul 14, 2010 19:41
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Thanks. I'll try to get a photo. In poking around on the internet, I see that nominal 1 1/2" copper pipe actually has an outside diameter of 1.625" and depending on the type of pipe used, the inside diameter can vary from 1.481" (Type K) to 1.505" (Type L) to 1.527" (Type M). I'm going to assume, without measuring, that my pipe is Type K because it's the only type of copper pipe with an inside diameter too big for 1 1/4" drain pipe and too small for 1 1/2" pipe. That would explain my predicament.
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Jul 15, 2010 14:25
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King of the Cows posted:Thanks. I'll try to get a photo.
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Jul 15, 2010 16:17
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:They also could have used type dwv copper. But that stuffs not used much so you would have a hell of a time finding it. Cant you just find a gasket that will go over the hub of the Tee and then you can put a piece of ABS in for the drain arm. I tried to do that with a standard 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" coupling, but the gasket that came with it was too small. If I can find a slightly larger one, that'll work. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks!
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Jul 15, 2010 17:42
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King of the Cows posted:I tried to do that with a standard 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" coupling, but the gasket that came with it was too small. If I can find a slightly larger one, that'll work. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks! Try a plastic to copper fernco and it should work. You may have to put a lube on the fitting and in the rubber fernco to help it slip on.
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Jul 15, 2010 18:47
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When taking a shower in our new house the water pressure will fluctuate every few minutes. What I mean is that for a minute or so the pressure will be even, then the pressure will start to pulse slightly and the flow rate will fluctuate. Then about ten seconds later it goes back to a steady flow. Any idea what could be causing this? I've also heard knocking in my pipes when I use the faucet. Both of these things happen in our master bathroom, which is located the furthest away from the water source. Could this be a water hammer issue that could be corrected with an arrestor? Also the bath spigot is leaking in both of our bathtubs. How hard is it that to fix? Am I going to have to tear out walls?
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Jul 28, 2010 19:14
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:When taking a shower in our new house the water pressure will fluctuate every few minutes. What I mean is that for a minute or so the pressure will be even, then the pressure will start to pulse slightly and the flow rate will fluctuate. Then about ten seconds later it goes back to a steady flow. Sounds like the pressure issue is from a bad cartridge in the shower. The water hammer is not the cause of this. But you can install a water hammer arrester to stop the sound. And what type of valves do your tubs have, some are really easy to rebuild and some a pain in the rear end. Picture would help
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Jul 29, 2010 06:34
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Try a plastic to copper fernco and it should work. You may have to put a lube on the fitting and in the rubber fernco to help it slip on. Just reporting back that this worked. Don't really like the way it looks, but I'd rather be able to use my sink than to deal with it anymore.
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Jul 29, 2010 17:52
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King of the Cows posted:Just reporting back that this worked. Don't really like the way it looks, but I'd rather be able to use my sink than to deal with it anymore. Ya its not the most ideal method but sometimes you have to get creative. One time on a late night job i had a mixing valve union that wouldnt seal. Regardless that i even added dope to it to help it seal. Luckly the 3/4 dialectic unions that we carry had a similar gasket. I had to shave it down a little with the knife but it worked.
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Jul 29, 2010 22:10
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sounds like the pressure issue is from a bad cartridge in the shower. Where's the best place to install the arrester? Here's what the valve looks like. Turns out both of the showers in the house are leaking. And I can't find the shutoff for either shower; is this a situation where I'll have to close off water at the main? 
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Jul 30, 2010 05:01
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You will have to shut off the main water line. And the hot water heater to prevent any siphoning back and draining your water heater. That is a moen shower valve. Very easy to replace, i actually gave instructions a couple pages back in this thread. Most hard ware stores carry replacement cartridges. If you still have trouble i think my work has one laying around that i can take pictures off for you and show you how to take it apart.
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Jul 30, 2010 09:22
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Great! I'll grab replacement cartridges when I get home and try and fix it tonight. I don't think the pressure variation is due to the cartridge though; it sounds like a pump or something is running inside the house. It's a series of pulses that occurs every minute or so, and when I went downstairs earlier today I heard a noise that had the same series of pulses. I think it's down in the crawlspace, although I can't think of anything hooked up to the supply that would do that. We have city water.
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Jul 30, 2010 13:39
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There shouldn't be any pumps on a city water system. The only other thing i coudl think of is maybe you have lower pressure.And those pulses are drops in pressure due to alot of other people around you using their water. But with out testing your pressure i couldn't be for certain. I'd pull out the cartridge and see if theirs anything in it. And see what shape the rubbers are in. Obviously if the thing comes out in pieces it needs to be replaced. Or if the black gaskets on it leave a black residue when rubbed.
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Jul 30, 2010 17:15
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The pulses are really quick, like 5-6 per second for a few seconds. Our water pressure seems fine (or possibly even too high, given that I can get water hammer from shutting off the faucet).
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Jul 30, 2010 18:57
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The pulses are really quick, like 5-6 per second for a few seconds. Our water pressure seems fine (or possibly even too high, given that I can get water hammer from shutting off the faucet). I can get water hammer on almost any system. Specially if its hard piped its alot easier.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:42
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I can get water hammer on almost any system. Specially if its hard piped its alot easier. Makes sense. I'll switch out the cartridges, see if I can't track down the source of the noise, and get back to you.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:43
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Makes sense. I'll switch out the cartridges, see if I can't track down the source of the noise, and get back to you. If the pulsing continues i have one other idea. But either way the cartridges are bad since you said both valves leak.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:47
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We replaced out 15 year old washer with a brand new, shiny washer. Our trouble is that the new washer drains the water much faster than our old washer, and it's causing the drain pipe to overflow in a matter of seconds. Poking around behind the washer it seems like the drain goes into an U shape before back down into the drain. We've snaked out the main drain all the way to the street. We tried to snake the laundry drain but it's not passing the bend at all. Draino is of no help. My question is, is this bend supposed to be here? It's a 50 year old house and there's a lot of questionable plumbing here and a lot of temporary fixes by the previous homeowner. If it's not, how do we go about fixing this? EDIT: It's probably important to note that we went from a 3.2 to 4.0 cu ft. tub, so I'm sure it's draining way quicker than the old washer. FCKGW fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 02:46
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| # ? May 12, 2024 16:49 |
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I ran into something similar in my house and it turned out that I needed a larger diameter drain pipe. The original drain was 1" diameter, which was fine for old washers but modern washers need a 2" pipe. The 1" drain would backup and start overflowing just like you're describing. The 1" pipe simply couldn't handle the amount of water the washer is trying to push through it.
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Aug 2, 2010 13:54
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