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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the pulsing continues i have one other idea. But either way the cartridges are bad since you said both valves leak. Turns out the pulsing was from the downstairs toilet. It leaked and there was no water saver feature, so every now and then it would turn itself on and refill the toilet. The water level was so close that it would pulse on and off for a few seconds. I fixed it. I haven't had a chance to replace the cartridges yet, but will soon. Lowes had 3 types of cartridges; is there a way of telling which one is the right one? I grabbed a "Posi-Temp" cartridge on the assumption that if I was wrong I could return them and get the right one, but is this the kind of thing where I'll just have to go in and see what I can find?
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Aug 2, 2010 16:08
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BorderPatrol posted:We replaced out 15 year old washer with a brand new, shiny washer. Our trouble is that the new washer drains the water much faster than our old washer, and it's causing the drain pipe to overflow in a matter of seconds. That U shape is called a P-Trap. It keeps sewer gasses from coming into your house. Do you have a laundry sink you could run washer drain to? If you dont and you only have the stand pipe to run it too. You can make the stand pipe bigger. Attach a 3 inch bell reduced on it . And put a piece of 3 inch pipe on it to give you more volume to hold would help. What size is the pipe that you are discharging into. If its 1.5'' pipe that could be the problem. edit: beaten Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Turns out the pulsing was from the downstairs toilet. It leaked and there was no water saver feature, so every now and then it would turn itself on and refill the toilet. The water level was so close that it would pulse on and off for a few seconds. I fixed it. The positemp is the standard cartridge that is mostly used. Although i assume most of there cartridges are similar but just have different features. You shouldn't have any problem replacing them. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 16:27
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That U shape is called a P-Trap. It keeps sewer gasses from coming into your house. Right after I posted it dawned on me what was going on. It is a 1.5" pipe for the drain. I saw some pictures of how to increase the height of the drain to allow more volume to hold but unfortunately there's a series of shelves above the drain so doing so would be pretty invasive to the laundry space. I was able to go to the hardware store and pickup a new drain hose from the washer that's a little smaller than the old one. This lets the water drain a bit slower, and the drain fills up to about 1"-2" from the top but it doesn't spill over anymore. Any trouble with this setup?
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Aug 2, 2010 16:51
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BorderPatrol posted:Right after I posted it dawned on me what was going on. It is a 1.5" pipe for the drain. I saw some pictures of how to increase the height of the drain to allow more volume to hold but unfortunately there's a series of shelves above the drain so doing so would be pretty invasive to the laundry space. May put a little more wear on the pump in the washer machine, becuase of the restriction on the drain house.
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Aug 2, 2010 17:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:May put a little more wear on the pump in the washer machine, becuase of the restriction on the drain house. Hmm, well we will be re-doing the laundry area later this year so I should be able to setup the proper drain then. Thanks again.
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Aug 2, 2010 17:07
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I am looking for plumbing assistance- but of a different kind. Our homeowner's policy requires us to get an inspection of our galvanized pipes to ensure... they they aren't disasters, I guess. I found a company that will do the inspection that is required, but they want a distinct list of things to check under the house. I know poo poo about plumbing, and am looking for assistance with a list to give said plumber. The insurance company said that all they need is a written statement saying the pipes appear to be in good working order... the plumber says that's too vague and needs more guidelines. Please, help me with coming up with some short and useful guidelines for this plumber so the insurance co. will be happy!
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Aug 2, 2010 18:29
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Cathis posted:I am looking for plumbing assistance- but of a different kind. Our homeowner's policy requires us to get an inspection of our galvanized pipes to ensure... they they aren't disasters, I guess. I found a company that will do the inspection that is required, but they want a distinct list of things to check under the house. I know poo poo about plumbing, and am looking for assistance with a list to give said plumber. Make sure all pipe is properly secure. (IE the pipe isnt supporting itself but actually has hangers installed. Inspect all joints to see if there is any noticeable leaks, or calcium deposit from previous leaks. If you have galvanized drainage pipes check for any rusting pipes. usually if you touch the bottom side of the pipe it will crush if its rusted out.. Thats all i can think of for now.
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Aug 2, 2010 18:56
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I have a question that I'm hoping people with hands on experience with pressures and flow rates could answer (who have seen these sorts of flows in houses will faulty PRVs) - A hose with pressure and flow measuring 700kpa/~100psi before the outlet and discharging 2.5L/s (through a ~10mm orifice) - how lethal is this? We are going to use it for washing buses. How lethal would it be if we stepped it up to 200psi? We will be using the same 10mm orifice. I don't have figures on me at the moment but I believe the flow will be limited to about 3.5L/s. I understand in plumbing you use static and dynamic pressures? These are all dynamic, if I understand it correctly - you will get them at full flow if a gauge is connected to the line - a pressure sustaining valve will be used in the system to ensure any pressure above 700/1400kPa is relieved. Hobo Tickler fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Aug 4, 2010 |
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Aug 4, 2010 06:47
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I don't know to much about gray water systems, other then you need separate vents for the gray water fixtures.Whats the diverter valve for? Super late reply but the diverter is installed to allow draining to the sewer or to the garden. Not necessary but can be useful. I don't think I've seen a laundry greywater system that even uses a vent actually. A lot of people just use the washers pump to get the water to some part of their yard where it then dumps below grade into a mulch basin Looking at this picture again:  If that pipe is 1.5" then that stud would have to be notched half its width. I read somewhere that within the outer thirds of a structural member, the most you could notch was 1/6th the lumbers depth. That metal plate shouldn't do anything but protect the pipe from nails/screws, ya?. Is this just a structural deficiency or was something else done? Maybe it's a 2x6 stud wall edit: duh, it's probably just a partition and not a load bearing wall dwoloz fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Aug 4, 2010 |
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Aug 4, 2010 08:07
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dwoloz posted:edit: duh, it's probably just a partition and not a load bearing wall
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Aug 4, 2010 10:53
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dwoloz posted:Super late reply but the diverter is installed to allow draining to the sewer or to the garden. Not necessary but can be useful. I have only installed a gray water system once. And we never did anything outside of the building. It was also multiple fixtures that was on it and it was plumbed just like a normal system would be. The only reason you don't connect the vents is a chance of bacteria crossing over into the gray water system.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:33
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Hobo Tickler posted:I have a question that I'm hoping people with hands on experience with pressures and flow rates could answer (who have seen these sorts of flows in houses will faulty PRVs) - I do not have the answer to this but i would be interested in learning more about this. Also fittings come into factor. Each 90 slows down the velocity of the water, but each one is different depending on pipe material and diameter of pipe. So the 100psi would be different velocity at the pump , then after going through a couple 90°s to the nossel.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:42
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My crapper isn't getting a good flush very often, so perhaps you can help. I checked the water level, and it seems like it's where it should be. It can generally get enough suction to clear the bowl of any solids (except maybe some TP on the first flush), but it's very slow, and doesn't drain the water like it should (it just slowly goes down to the level it should be after the flush), EXCEPT, and here's the part I would probably only share with an internet plumber, when I take an apparently perfectly sized poo poo that it creates just the right amount of suction and the bowl drains like it should.
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Aug 6, 2010 12:44
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unprofessional posted:My crapper isn't getting a good flush very often, so perhaps you can help. I checked the water level, and it seems like it's where it should be. It can generally get enough suction to clear the bowl of any solids (except maybe some TP on the first flush), but it's very slow, and doesn't drain the water like it should (it just slowly goes down to the level it should be after the flush), EXCEPT, and here's the part I would probably only share with an internet plumber, when I take an apparently perfectly sized poo poo that it creates just the right amount of suction and the bowl drains like it should. You're toilet sounds like its pretty old and out dated. Most of the older toilets dont have the quick flushing action that newer toilets have. The older ones also use more water so they didnt need to be fast clearing. My suggestion is get a new toilet that uses less water and will give you less problems. I'd sugguest a Cadet 3 made by american standard. I own one and i havent yet clogged it.
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Aug 6, 2010 16:01
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Anyone have any suggestions for fixing a toilet that makes a constant trickling sound when some idiot installed a countertop over the tank so you can't get an arm in to replace the stopper? I'm thinking of attempting to unscrew the bolts holding the tank on and lifting it forward (hopefully the bolts will clear the hole) otherwise I'm pretty much stuck with it til I remodel the bathroom (hopefully soon).
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Aug 13, 2010 19:33
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priznat posted:Anyone have any suggestions for fixing a toilet that makes a constant trickling sound when some idiot installed a countertop over the tank so you can't get an arm in to replace the stopper? I doubt pulling the bolts will work. Be cause of the rubber gasket and the stiffener for the gasket. It basicly looks like a boob thats 1 inch deep, and maybe 2 inches wide. Also if the toilet is older sometimes the bolts rust and you need to get a screw driver to back them on the inside of the tank. also if you pull the pull and manage to get it off. You will never get the bolts to back back out of the tank holes to tighten them back up unless you can get a hand or something in there.
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Aug 13, 2010 23:54
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Argh you are correct. I guess it's either wait for reno or sawzall the countertop. Can't believe someone would seal the top of the tank like that  Thanks for the info on what to look for!
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Aug 14, 2010 00:13
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I am having a peculiar issue with my toilet. It was working fine, then we had a rather large party last night during which it received heavy usage. This morning, I noticed that it is able to empty effectively, but upon refilling, it doesn't fill as rapidly, but will eventually reach the normal level after about 5 minutes. I opened the tank and everything appears to be operating normally. It's strange to me why the filling would be taking so long. Is this indicative of a more severe clog or a problem with a component? Any ideas on what I could do to try to diagnose this problem? Any insight would be appreciated. EDIT: Fixed the problem. Turns out that the refilling hose had become disconnected. Not sure how that happened, but glad it's working again. Modern Pragmatist fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Aug 22, 2010 |
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Aug 22, 2010 04:37
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Here's a question: Moving into a new apartment in a few days, we found that the kitchen sink won't drain unless the disposal is running. If the disposal is off, the sink will fill up as if there's a stopper in there, but when the disposal is running, it drains perfectly normally. From what I've been reading, there could be a clog somewhere down the line, and running the disposal is just creating the pressure necessary to force the water down. Does this sound like a possibility? For some reason I got it in my head that if it's not a clog, then the landlord set it up this way on purpose, as a half-assed way of ensuring that nothing goes down the drain without being chopped up first. Capt. Rhodes fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 25, 2010 |
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Aug 25, 2010 22:20
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Capt. Rhodes posted:Here's a question: Usually, it's a clog IN the disposal. The dishwasher also drains in above the macerator plate, and that can lead to a lot of grease and stuff clogging the drain. Disposals are designed to break up food, and hot, greasy water from dishwashers just coats the inside of the disposal in sticky filth. Try grinding up a tray or three of ice cubes; that may help. Also, [have someone] snake out the vent, as suds and grease can form some impressive long-lasting foams in the vent stack, preventing any drainage. I did both of these things and it cleared our kitchen sink issues right up, until the motor burned out on the disposal a month later.
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Aug 26, 2010 01:42
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Usually, it's a clog IN the disposal. The dishwasher also drains in above the macerator plate, and that can lead to a lot of grease and stuff clogging the drain. Disposals are designed to break up food, and hot, greasy water from dishwashers just coats the inside of the disposal in sticky filth. Try grinding up a tray or three of ice cubes; that may help. Also, [have someone] snake out the vent, as suds and grease can form some impressive long-lasting foams in the vent stack, preventing any drainage. Very cool, thanks for the tips! I'll start with the ice cubes, and then try having the vent snaked if the sink still won't drain. There's no dishwasher, so whatever sticky filth might be clogging the disposal would have to be from just handwashing the dishes or whatever.
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Aug 26, 2010 20:15
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1) Is there such a thing as a gate valve wrench? There is a gate valve on the incoming copper supply line in my house, which is the only place to completely stop all the water flow if a pipe should burst. My gate valve functions correctly, but my neighbors wouldn't budge when they had a leak, and it obviously caused a lot of problems, so I want to find the right wrench and have it on hand in case of emergency. 2) My mid-80s town house is mostly plumbed with polybutylene pipes with plastic fittings. Nearly half of the other homes on my court have had catastrophic leaks. So far mine is holding up, but I'm nervous. After constructing a simple 3/4" PVC condensate drain line from my heat pump to the outside, I was thinking I could pretty easily handle replacing the polybutylene pipe myself with 3/4" PVC instead of paying a pro to use copper. The PVC is incredibly cheap, and seems very forgiving. What am I missing here? Why do people pay for expensive copper when PVC seems so much easier and cheaper?
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Aug 28, 2010 05:21
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Secret_Squirrel posted:1) Is there such a thing as a gate valve wrench? There is a gate valve on the incoming copper supply line in my house, which is the only place to completely stop all the water flow if a pipe should burst. Also, modern PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is the way to go now. It looks like the old leaky stuff, but it's not, it's fixed & better and used extensively in new construction because not only is the material far cheaper than copper, but it's far easier to install, too. It's even led to completely different design techniques like manifolds and home-runs from every device to the main entry because it's so cheap. Does your homeowner's insurance policy would cover a catastrophic leak? You'd going to be tearing up walls all over the place, it's a very expensive thing to do, even if you DIY it all. (The plumbing itself is easy, you could probably re-plumb your entire house in 2 days) grover fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Aug 28, 2010 |
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Aug 28, 2010 15:00
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Secret_Squirrel posted:1) Is there such a thing as a gate valve wrench? There is a gate valve on the incoming copper supply line in my house, which is the only place to completely stop all the water flow if a pipe should burst. Unless its just a standard gate valve with a round handle i'd use channel locks on it. If its what grover is talking about you can use a crescent wrench to.
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Aug 28, 2010 18:40
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Quick question regarding a tankless coil water heater. My friend gave me a call and asked what he should do about hot water coming out of his cold water tap after about 30 seconds of water running. My first thoughts were some kind of tempering valve or check valve leaking, but he sent me a picture of his setup and I can't seem to find anything that looks like that. Anyone have any ideas?.jpg)
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Aug 30, 2010 23:25
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We had a similar problem a couple pages ago; it was diagnosed as a failed mixing valve. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131944&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=11#post373168982 Mthrboard posted:I'm having an issue with my water heater, and I have a theory on how to fix it, but I want to run it by you guys here first to see if there are any potential pitfalls with it. My problem is, the cold taps in my kitchen sink and utility room sink run extremely hot for the first few seconds after I turn them on. The reason for this is that I have a thermostatic mixing valve on the hot output of my water heater, and it's bleeding hot water back through the cold input. The pipes coming out of the water heater get so hot that I can't touch them. Anyway, what I want to do to fix this is install a heat trap on the cold water input to the mixing valve. I already have traps on the main cold input to the water heater, as well as the hot output (between the heater and the mixing valve). I'm not an expert at these mixing valves, so I want to make sure I won't damage it by installing a heat trap on the cold input. Here's what the plumbing on the heater looked like:
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Aug 30, 2010 23:46
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Yes, that was my initial thought as well, but then when he sent me a picture I didn't see one. With my luck it's cutoff just out of view. It's tough to diagnose stuff over the phone, talking to someone who has no idea what they're looking at. He's calling a plumber anyway, so I'm sure it'll be straightened out. I was more asking for my knowledge at this point.
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Aug 31, 2010 00:03
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Hmm. That happens to me, and it's because I live in the desert and have plumbing run right behind brick walls. If it's 100F in the brick, it's 100F in the pipe, and the cold comes out 100F until cold water can make it the six feet from ground level to the faucet. Note: It only has to be about 70-75F for the brick to hit 100F surface temps. Insolation, and all.
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Aug 31, 2010 04:50
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I am planning my basement framing layout and have a question about drain plumbing around a corner. Is there a recommended way to route a drain for a bathroom sink if I want to have the drainpipe curve through two 90 degree corners in 2x4 framing? I can't see how this could be done if I am doing a butt-joint type of connection for the wall corners. Another question. I am planning for a steam/jet shower in the basement and I need more hot water to run it. My house has a 40 gallon tank that lasts maybe 20-25 minutes on a single basic low flow showerhead and I'm sure it will maybe last 10 minutes with the new shower setup I have planned. What would you recommend for more hot water? A second tank to run in tandem? Replace the (3 year old) tank with a much bigger one (how big?)? Instant hot water system? (Issues with really hard water / a lot of calcium?)
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Sep 20, 2010 17:04
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Ahz posted:I am planning my basement framing layout and have a question about drain plumbing around a corner. Is there a recommended way to route a drain for a bathroom sink if I want to have the drainpipe curve through two 90 degree corners in 2x4 framing? I can't see how this could be done if I am doing a butt-joint type of connection for the wall corners. This depend are you trying to turn 180 degrees or 90 degree in different directions? Whats usually done in corners like this is notching those 2x4's so you can slide the already glued fitting into it. Also I'd bring the drain close enough that you can still still vent it properly. A regular 1-1/2 inch dirty arm can run upto 3' 6'' before you'd have to move the vent closer to make it work properly. If that doesn't make sense I can add pictures. Ahz posted:
To properly run that shower you would need a boiler with an attached water maker. Now since that is not an option. I would skip the idea of a steam jet shower. Do you know the gpm rating on each head for that shower? An average shower head is around 2 gallons per minute. Lets say with 4 heads that were 2 gpm a piece. You would get a 5 minute shower. You can get a little more water out of that tank if you turn up the temp that the water is heated too and throw in a mixing valve. The problem I have found with tankless water heaters is there out put. If you go cheap the out put is really low. (2-3 gpm). Also if you live in a colder climate you have to take into consideration the ground temperature water coming in. If it can't heat the water quick enough it will lower the output till it can catch up with its self. Also you are suppose to have a water softener to keep calcium from building up in the water heater. And yearly maintenance is suggested. You can run a electric water heater to temper the ground water coming in to make your out put a little better.
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Sep 20, 2010 18:34
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This depend are you trying to turn 180 degrees or 90 degree in different directions? Whats usually done in corners like this is notching those 2x4's so you can slide the already glued fitting into it. Also I'd bring the drain close enough that you can still still vent it properly. A regular 1-1/2 inch dirty arm can run upto 3' 6'' before you'd have to move the vent closer to make it work properly. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:To properly run that shower you would need a boiler with an attached water maker. Now since that is not an option. I would skip the idea of a steam jet shower. Do you know the gpm rating on each head for that shower? An average shower head is around 2 gallons per minute. Lets say with 4 heads that were 2 gpm a piece. You would get a 5 minute shower. You can get a little more water out of that tank if you turn up the temp that the water is heated too and throw in a mixing valve. Steam may not happen, but I was definitely thinking in the 8-10 gpm range for the jets and shower. What is the biggest water heater tank I could put in that would fit in a residential basement? Are there any downsides besides going to a giant tank besides initial cost? I am definitely shying away from instant heat as I am not a big fan of ongoing maintenance/flushing or buying a water softener. Heck the space I save going instant would be taken up by the softener anyways. Are there any downsides to dual tanks aside from wasted space? I don't think I want an electric instant heater for that bathroom, again the maintenance issue and softener would be a problem. I also heard venting for gas instant water can be a pain as well.
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Sep 20, 2010 19:03
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Ahz posted:It would be two opposing 90 degree runs. But if the vent can't be further than 3' 6" than I wouldn't bother anyways and keep the sink closer to the stack/wall. Can you dram me an over head view or take a picture of where you have your drain line and where your lav will be? Ahz posted:Steam may not happen, but I was definitely thinking in the 8-10 gpm range for the jets and shower. What is the biggest water heater tank I could put in that would fit in a residential basement? Are there any downsides besides going to a giant tank besides initial cost? I am not sure what the biggest water heater you can buy at home depot is. You also have to figure if you want two gas water heaters or a gas/electric. The down side is energy costs to heat two 60 gallon tanks at once. You could run the electric to store the water and have the gas heat it up since it has a quicker recovery time. But lets say you have 120 gallons of water, at 10 gpm a minute. You'd get a 12 minute shower. I don't think the cost of always heating two water heaters is worth a body spray set up. Also when doing a body spray system make sure you have equal pipe length on each size of the body spray loop or you will get an unbalanced flow through certain heads.
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Sep 20, 2010 19:13
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My toilet has a recurring leak at the base. The house is about 70 years old, and I've lived there for about five. This is the second time in the last year or so I've had to replace the wax ring. Owing to the age of the house I suppose, there is no closet flange, just the drain horn and two bolts coming up through the floorboards. Could this problem be caused by the ring not having a good surface to adhere to on the drain side? Would getting a plumber in to install a flange be useful at all? How much might something like that cost? The bathroom is easily accessible from the crawlspace if that matters.
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Sep 21, 2010 18:17
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stubblyhead posted:My toilet has a recurring leak at the base. The house is about 70 years old, and I've lived there for about five. This is the second time in the last year or so I've had to replace the wax ring. Owing to the age of the house I suppose, there is no closet flange, just the drain horn and two bolts coming up through the floorboards. Could this problem be caused by the ring not having a good surface to adhere to on the drain side? Would getting a plumber in to install a flange be useful at all? How much might something like that cost? The bathroom is easily accessible from the crawlspace if that matters. A wax ring should last at least 5 years. I can't say how much it will cost you to have a plumber install a new one because there is so many variables. But bids are usually free from a company.
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Sep 21, 2010 20:35
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Thanks for the reply. Does it sound reasonable to you that the lack of a flange could result in a poor seal?
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Sep 21, 2010 21:51
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stubblyhead posted:Thanks for the reply. Does it sound reasonable to you that the lack of a flange could result in a poor seal? Installing a new toilet I thought I ended up with a similar problem. Turns out that I hadn't tightened the tank on to the bowl tight enough, and there was a slow enough leak that it was drawn down the bowl and looked like a leak at the drain despite coming out of the bolts holding the tank onto the bowl. Solved that one after the 2nd wax ring!
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Sep 21, 2010 22:03
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stubblyhead posted:Thanks for the reply. Does it sound reasonable to you that the lack of a flange could result in a poor seal? is the wax ring actually worn when you replace it or does it still look new? Also you could need a 2nd wax ring since usually they squish down and will fill any voids.
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Sep 21, 2010 23:58
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:is the wax ring actually worn when you replace it or does it still look new? Also you could need a 2nd wax ring since usually they squish down and will fill any voids. The ring seemed like it was still in good shape. It had leaked some a few weeks back, and I tightened the nuts down which seemed to help. But yesterday it started leaking again. When I lifted the base up about half the ring stuck to the floor and half was still stuck to the underside of the toilet. I thought about doubling the wax ring, but the pipe is more or less flush with the floor and it seemed like overkill. I did get one of the thick rings with the plastic funnel in the center though.
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Sep 22, 2010 00:55
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Well flow the toilet over and over again and see if the water gushes out. That will tell you if its the wax ring but it sounds like it should be fine. I think the other poster is right about the tank being loose. Can you wiggle your take bath and forth?
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Sep 22, 2010 01:08
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Well flow the toilet over and over again and see if the water gushes out. That will tell you if its the wax ring but it sounds like it should be fine. I think the other poster is right about the tank being loose. Can you wiggle your take bath and forth? I cycled it a few times last night and it didn't leak at all, and my wife says it seems ok so far today. It seems to be bolted down tight, but it also seemed like it was before I unbolted it last night. How tight should I go with the nuts? I've read a few places that tightening unevenly or over-tightening can crack the basin, which I really don't want to do.
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Sep 22, 2010 01:18
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