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All tasks performed on an 83 Nighthawk 750. 1. Set the pulser gap. Right was on the money, left was double the spec.  2. Yanked the fuel sender unit. Variable resistor's working fine, just not getting its info to the other side of the base plate. There is solder in my future. Mo details and pics for those who give a flip at: http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=12034 3. Deciphered and diagrammed the Rube Goldberg fuel line system installed by the PO. I...weep for the past. It's been submitted to the DOHC senseis for review, and ripping this arrangement plus capping the automatic fuel valve appears to be the ticket. Perhaps I should enlist BP. Perhaps not. More info at: http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=12033 4. Had to turn the crank to accomplish #1, which was a blessing. A bolt that holds the inner and outer stator covers together had worked its way loose. You really do not want a bolt tossed around in this expensive magnetic maelstrom. This is NOT A ROCK TUMBLER. I knew that one was going to be trouble--despite being NOS parts still in the JapWrap, one hole didn't quite line up and I had to get a drill involved. My bad for not using Loctite in the first place. No idea when it happened, but it doesn't seem to have left any permanent scars. 
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Jul 26, 2010 07:10
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| # ? May 10, 2024 21:33 |
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Bought the core components of a roadable toolkit. - 10-19mm socket set, in a plastic case. - 12mm combination wrench - 2x 3" extensions - 1x 6" extension (for the forks) - 6", 8", 10" crescent wrench set. - Needlenose vicegrips Then I used them to adjust the handlebars forward for more rise and a longer reach to them - they're a LOT more comfortable to use from a standing position now. To Do: Fork Seals Tighten Steering Head slightly Check more closely for an oil leak - I think I may have spotted one near the countershaft cover (the chain is tensioned properly now, but Hayden may have had it sportbike tight when I left Texas...)
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Jul 26, 2010 18:42
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Accomplished my first valve adjustment yesterday. Not nearly as painful as I imagined it being. Even with my carbs not tuned right, I noticed a marked improvement too. Only question: WHY are valve shims SO expensive?
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Jul 26, 2010 18:45
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ari.gato posted:Accomplished my first valve adjustment yesterday. Not nearly as painful as I imagined it being. Even with my carbs not tuned right, I noticed a marked improvement too. Only question: WHY are valve shims SO expensive? Because they're made of the crushed bones of everyone who's attempted this task and failed. Me included. Congrats for decoding this juju; haven't done a bucket/shim set yet, but I thoroughly mangled a VLX600 years ago, mostly because you need X-ray vision and baby hands to get at the back sets.
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Jul 26, 2010 21:44
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Marv Hushman posted:Because they're made of the crushed bones of everyone who's attempted this task and failed. Me included. Congrats for decoding this juju; haven't done a bucket/shim set yet, but I thoroughly mangled a VLX600 years ago, mostly because you need X-ray vision and baby hands to get at the back sets. Wish I could take the credit, but the engine on my ride is really accessible (once the tank, air filter housing, and carburetor is off), and the Clymer's manual made it as simple as checking a measurement, figuring out what shim was already installed, and then finding where the two correlated in this giant table to tell me the appropriate new shim size.
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Jul 26, 2010 22:53
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I unbolted some poo poo in preparation for pulling the forks off this weekend.  I didn't realize how much turbulence I was getting off the fairing and the fender. It's quite nice to ride now.
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Jul 28, 2010 16:39
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- Gazed upon the rat's nest of fuel line the PO put together to circumvent/assist/who knows what the automatic fuel valve. Labeled it. Winged it. Great idea, poor execution and location. Manual petcock it is, and maybe a well-placed reminder sticker. - Repaired and remounted the fuel level sending unit. Contacts are sealed in plastic on the underside, and one had separated from the base plate. Hacked the thing apart and performed a hideous but effective solder job. Bought Seal All in hopes of a) making it oil/gas/element proof and b) hiding it from humanity for all time. It's actually clear, so my work is like an insect trapped in amber. A really, really scary insect. - Put JB Weld to use for the first time. Busted tabs on the rear cowl again, and last year's wonder product didn't hold up.
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Jul 28, 2010 16:48
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Jabs posted:I unbolted some poo poo in preparation for pulling the forks off this weekend. why did you take off the headlight fairing to get the forks off? Just curious, I've had my forks off twice and I never needed to take anything else off In addition, for turbulence, I can personally recommend putting a KX fender on instead of the normal KLR fender. It's a little smaller and stiffer, so it doesn't buffet around as much. Looks cooler too
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Jul 28, 2010 19:03
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Armacham posted:why did you take off the headlight fairing to get the forks off? Just curious, I've had my forks off twice and I never needed to take anything else off. Plus, I was curious to see how much of the 'wibblewobbles' I have are fender/fairing + crosswind related. Finally, I'm considering leaving the fairing off and going with a 7" round fork mount, or a set of Buell dual headlights. I'm kinda liking the enduro look. quote:In addition, for turbulence, I can personally recommend putting a KX fender on instead of the normal KLR fender. It's a little smaller and stiffer, so it doesn't buffet around as much. Looks cooler too
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Jul 28, 2010 20:52
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Jabs posted:I'm going to be mucking about with the triple tree/bearings in addition to changing the fork seals/wipers, so I wanted less crap to be in the way for that. makes sense. my friend has an XR650R with a race light that looks pretty bad rear end  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Fork brace works well for me, here's a pic of the KX fender  Click here for the full 480x640 image.
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Jul 28, 2010 21:27
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I went to change the clutch cable on my Vstar 1300 and on the way over to my friend's house where I was gonna do it, it broke. I was able to ride it there, but that was it. Frayed as hell. Bad design, the adjuster nut thing was located by the steering neck or whatever, and all the torsion from moving the bars around made it crack where the cable connected to the adjuster piece and then it just wouldn't hold lube and wore down. New cable's adjuster piece is about 4 inches from the clutch lever. It's ugly but I feel better about it functionally. Shifts much smoother now, these past coupe weeks have been rough. 2 more tasks before Sturgis: belt tension/rear wheel align, and then an oil change. The trip will probably kill the factory Dunlops. I already have 9000 miles on them.
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Jul 29, 2010 07:16
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Ripped this mess out: Successful fuel gauge fix:  Bought my daughter a sand wedge: 
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Jul 30, 2010 16:23
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Replaced the entire charging system. Stator, regulator and wires. 14V at just about every rmp. Finally!
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Jul 30, 2010 21:33
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Did it last night, but clubmans, bar end mirrors and new grips  
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Jul 31, 2010 00:54
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SaNChEzZ posted:Did it last night, but clubmans, bar end mirrors and new grips Wow, that does look pretty sweet. Have you ridden it? Is it uncomfortable? Was the right turn signal already broke or was that the result of the first ride? 
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Jul 31, 2010 14:00
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Did most of this last month but eh, same idea: 
Also took about a ~1500 mi round trip to the Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally in Baker City, OR. Definitely some awesome roads to ride up there, especially the "Devil's Tail." Bonus pic of me riding out of the Devil's Tail (kinda lovely scanned pic, oh well) 
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Aug 1, 2010 04:42
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Installed a 225mm Delkevic carbon fiber stubby silencer on my SV. A friend said I sounded like a herd of stampeding horses. Roar, fuckers, roar.
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Aug 1, 2010 |
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Aug 1, 2010 17:30
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Installed new points and capacitors in the 77 CB750k. I don't have a timing light so I did a static adjustment. What a pain in the rear end. Lots of wiggling this and what not but they were still opening up too soon. Finally said gently caress it and just adjusted the points themselves rather than the plate. That did the trick! Rev's up to red line much easier. Test ride went well, but it is still under whelming in the power department. I'll install new plugs next. I had the time today but I subscribe to the "one change at a time" school of though, so I'll always know WTF I did to ruin or improve performance.
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Aug 2, 2010 02:49
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New rear hoop for the WR450! About time, its super hard riding in sand and wet clay on a balding tire :| Greased axles and bearings and oiled the chain. Pity I dont get to ride for the next few weekends due to moving house 
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Aug 2, 2010 09:15
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Crayvex posted:Wow, that does look pretty sweet. Have you ridden it? Is it uncomfortable? Was the right turn signal already broke or was that the result of the first ride? Lol, nah the broken bits are from the PO. I have all of the blinkers etc. on order with bikebandit which is taking for-loving ever. I like the feel a lot more with the low bars personally. With the uprights, I didn't feel as stable, maybe it's cause I'm used to riding the SV with clipons...  Content: Lowered the front 1", installed sportster mufflers, found out the rear shocks I bought don't fit, but cut off my helmet lock anyway.
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Aug 2, 2010 17:53
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Marv Hushman posted:Bought my daughter a sand wedge: Yeah, yeah, nice try but we all know that you're going to use that to beat on people who try to pass you.
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Aug 2, 2010 18:49
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah, yeah, nice try but we all know that you're going to use that to beat on people who try to pass you. Nah, they're all on mobility scooters. I just reach over and hit the kill switches.
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Aug 2, 2010 19:42
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My 10-day waiting period elapsed so I went down and picked up this Plews LubriMatic lever action grease gun. Interchangeable barrels, deluxe charging handle, and a constant stream of Molybdenum-tipped ammo (not available in California).  Aimed it at my swingarm and the thing sucked down the bulk of a 3 oz cartridge before exiting the pivot.  Grease=Word.
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Aug 2, 2010 22:13
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Marv Hushman posted:Grease=Word. It's got leakin'
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Aug 2, 2010 22:27
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Jabs posted:It's got lube, Grease is The Time and 3rd Bass and B. Ocean...
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Aug 3, 2010 00:49
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Jabs posted:Check more closely for an oil leak - I think I may have spotted one near the countershaft cover (the chain is tensioned properly now, but Hayden may have had it sportbike tight when I left Texas...) Does the chain on the KLR need to have more slack than a sportbike chain? You're right in that I adjusted it the same as I had always adjusted my sportbikes, didn't think there would be a difference.
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Aug 3, 2010 01:10
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hayden. posted:Does the chain on the KLR need to have more slack than a sportbike chain? You're right in that I adjusted it the same as I had always adjusted my sportbikes, didn't think there would be a difference.
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Aug 3, 2010 01:12
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I'd give it the two finger rule. Thats what the my local ktm dealer told me. You place your index and middle finger unger the chain and above the plastic slider. adjsut accordingly.
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Aug 3, 2010 01:26
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Spec on the KLR is 50-65mm. Spec on a, say, ninja 250 is 35-45mm. That's a world of difference. RIP countershaft seal.
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Aug 3, 2010 01:38
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Bled my brakes again. They still don't grab until I pump the lever a few times. I'm thinking something is up in the master cylinder.
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Aug 3, 2010 02:46
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sklnd posted:Spec on the KLR is 50-65mm. To be fair it was definitely on the loose end of the spectrum, so I imagine it was fine.
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Aug 3, 2010 04:45
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hayden. posted:Does the chain on the KLR need to have more slack than a sportbike chain? You're right in that I adjusted it the same as I had always adjusted my sportbikes, didn't think there would be a difference. There's a guy who did some semi-obsessive measuring - putting the bike up on a lift to get the full extension, then compressing the suspension to the point at which it has the maximum distance between the countershaft and the rear hub, blah blah blah. The end result of all his measuring? On the KLR, when your chain is tightened properly, you should be able to lift the bottom run up and just touch the bottom of the rubber guard on the swingarm. hayden. posted:To be fair it was definitely on the loose end of the spectrum, so I imagine it was fine. The Post Office says the seals and stuff should be here today, so I spent last night pulling the front end apart.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I don't think this is supposed to look like this. Dammit. TrailTech here I come.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. The cheap parts look fine, naturally.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 15:57
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Last night I changed my oil and then washed the bike, giving the belt some special attention with the soapy water. Rolled it, washed more belt, repeat. It's whiney at low highway speeds and it's a little annoying. Took it into the reputable indie shop a couple blocks up the street and had him give it a quick once-over and ride test to make sure he didn't notice anything weird before I put 3000 miles on it next week. I asked him to look at the belt pulleys and check belt tension. After 20 minutes of poking and a ride around the block, he says: "I think you just need to ride the bike". So I'm ready to go to Sturgis. It's amazing how much somebody who knows what they're doing saying everything's cool can reduce the whine on the belt; shows how much of it is actually in my head.
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Aug 3, 2010 18:54
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Belts whine a little after they get wet. It should be fine. Have fun in Sturgis!
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Aug 3, 2010 19:42
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The NonBornKing posted:Belts whine a little after they get wet. Sounds like a joke - what do Harley belts and Harley riders have in common?
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Aug 3, 2010 20:44
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Crossposting from my build thread... TOYS!! 
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Aug 3, 2010 21:38
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SaNChEzZ posted:Crossposting from my build thread... JEALOUS!! Not that it represents a ton of savings, but you can probably avoid OEM for things like bulbs in the future--most of the time there's a modern off-the-shelf equivalent. Also, give servicehonda.com a shot with your next batch of toys. In addition to the diagrams, they give you the full Honda P/N (unlike Bandit, etc.) so you can shop around and research if you care to. You shouldn't have to, based on what I've heard about their pricing.
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Aug 3, 2010 22:30
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The bulbs were just a buck or so a piece, if they were super expensive I would have just gotten them locally but I figured what the hell, may as well get it all at once Thanks for the heads up about servicehonda I was wondering if there were any good parts places out there besides bikebandit for OEM or aftermarket/OEM stuff.
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Aug 3, 2010 23:08
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Actually yesterday, but when I cleaned some of the gunk off the chain with some WD-40 I must have accidentally sprayed some on the rear brake disc. Don't do this if you like braking. Hopefully equal amounts of brake cleaner will undo this poor display of spraycanmanship.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:09
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Do you know what the penalty for horn cruelty is in this state? Well, it's probably pretty stiff. Poor little feller, must have hung on for... Well, I hadn't planned on fixing anything during lunch, but there it is. My Harley parts bin to the rescue. The replacement is, true to form, louder and more obnoxious than the original. 
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Aug 4, 2010 18:03
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