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he true-scaled wood elves!? this guy is some sort of semi-literate genius
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Aug 3, 2010 20:44
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enri posted:This is like saying big sportsman no. 1 is better than big sportsman no. 2 - they both blow the pants off of whatever the rest of us can do Exactly this. PV certainly ranks high above anything that I could do at my current skill level; a sentiment that I'm sure he shares when speaking of people more skilled than he his. Basically, it's a never-ending cycle of "that guy makes me look like a chump  "
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Aug 3, 2010 21:22
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I apparently am coming into possession of several WN Series 7 brushes (the Oath Thread is awesome!  ) Having never owned "nice" brushes before, I'd like to do everything I can to ensure a long and productive life for these little guys.My general brush care while painting is to use thinned paint, and rinse every so often to keep things from clumping on the brush. Once done I rinse the brushes in water while swishing the bristles on my hand to make sure the paint is gone. On stubborn clumps, or when cleaning drybrushes, I'll use a drop of dishsoap in my hand to swirl the bristles in to help remove the dried paint clumps. My flat brushes for drybrushing still curl up quickly and become gnarled masses of suck, and my pointed brushes still get curly on the end and eventually stop holding a point (becoming tiny stipple tips, almost.) Am I doing anthing incorrectly? Am I not doing something that I should be doing?
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Aug 3, 2010 22:45
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^^^I picked up some brush cleaner and preservation stuff from a local craft store for 10$ for a little tin can. Was recommended in a FTW blog. So back or white primer for my ultramarines? I've read varying opinions. Seems like black would be easier, which is kinda what I'm going for seeing as this is my first real attempt at painting miniatures in 10+ years. And even then I was a kid and didn't know what I was doing
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Aug 3, 2010 22:49
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http://www.dickblick.com/products/masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver/ Get this stuff and never look back. The W&N brushes are awesome though, I beat the poo poo out of mine and they just keep on being amazing, still hold their point, etc. You just make sure that every 30 sec to min swish the brush around in your water then gently roll it on a paper towel to dry it off and keep its point. Other then that you dont need to treat them like frigile things that will fall apart if you look at them funny. Edit: to add to the Masters thought. What I do is every other time I finish using the brushes for teh night or after doing metalic paints I grab the brush cleaner, an eye dropper, and my brushes. Put a drop or 2 of water on the soap and swish your brush around on it, put a good bit of pressure on the brush so you pick up the soap. Then take the brush and rub the hell out of it into your palm, press hard so it really works deep into the brush so it can get all th paint out of it. Rinse the brush and do this till you are no longer getting paint coming out of the brush. After you are done cleaning the brushes get a little bit of the soap on the bristles and shape the brush so it has a nice tip and leave the soap in it so it can dry. When you go to use the brush next time a quick swirl in water and the soap will be gone and the tip of the brush will be perfect. I have fixed sevral brushes by doing this with no ill effects and it works great on my shaving brush as well. Backno fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 23:02
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What backno said, basically. Masters brush cleaner is the shizzle. Speaking of amazing painters, Im going to gencon and Im going to take a shitload of pictures of all the painters that are way better than me. Ill prob just bring my laptop and upload them all to here saturday night.
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Aug 3, 2010 23:17
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PaintVagrant posted:Im going to gencon So, did you get some business cards made out to pimp your poo poo?
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Aug 4, 2010 00:50
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Nah, not this year. Next year when Ive got more stuff, probably
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Aug 4, 2010 00:52
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PaintVagrant posted:Nah, not this year. Next year when Ive got more stuff, probably If you think you'll need help next year, let me know.
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Aug 4, 2010 01:09
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Will do. You going this year?
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Aug 4, 2010 01:12
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PaintVagrant posted:Will do. You going this year? No job = No GenCon. 
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Aug 4, 2010 01:13
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Sole.Sushi posted:No job = No GenCon. 
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Aug 4, 2010 01:19
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Backno posted: Nah, I should be all right.
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Aug 4, 2010 01:21
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Its not stopping me, lol
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Aug 4, 2010 01:34
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PaintVagrant posted:Its not stopping me, lol You have a job: online proprietor of plastic crack and plastic crack accessories.
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Aug 4, 2010 01:40
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Sole.Sushi posted:You have a job: online proprietor of pro-paint and pro-paint accessories. Fixed that for you 
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Aug 4, 2010 01:54
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. What issue is that? Also, what is zenith highlighting? 
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Aug 4, 2010 02:27
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I think college permanently damaged my brain, because a simple "hey check this issue" came out as this: DiPietro, Matt, "Lightning Quick: Speed Painting Techniques". No Quarter 30 (May 2010), pp57-60. Zenith highlighting is applying highlights and shading as if the sun were directly above the model (ie, at its zenith).
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Aug 4, 2010 02:35
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pw pw pw posted:Fixed that for you I knew there was a King of the Hill joke somewhere here. 
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Aug 4, 2010 03:03
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stabbington posted:I think college permanently damaged my brain, because a simple "hey check this issue" came out as this: DiPietro, Matt, "Lightning Quick: Speed Painting Techniques". No Quarter 30 (May 2010), pp57-60. Are you citing using MLA format? BECAUSE THERE ARE ERRORS.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:25
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MLA is for pussies, Chicago/Turabian fo' lyfe (I still hosed it up, but whatever, not being graded on that poo poo anymore). Content: may as well crosspost my oath WIPs over here.  The satyr needs touchups and more highlighting/shading, but I'm really happy with the way the rusty metal on the inside of his bracers turned out.  My first real attempt at OSL on the shifting stones here, but I can't help but feel like they need something more. Maybe some moss down at the join with the base, which is currently kind of ugly.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:40
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stabbington posted:Content: may as well crosspost my oath WIPs over here. The eyes on that first guy are pretty baller. At first I thought you drilled out the eyes and added LEDs, but looking closer I can see the transitions of paint. Either way, those are spot on, dude. As for the the shifting stones, I think the problem is that it doesn't get, well, lighter towards the source of the light. Right now it just kind of looks like patina on top of red copper. It might just be the photos, but I think adding a bit of light blue (Ice Blue or the like) to your turquoise for a highlight on the glyphs, followed by a very selective highlight of 1:1:1 turquoise:light blue:white on the areas that you think would shed the most light. Fake Edit: Dur, WIP pics.  Add a bit of green wash to the shifting stones towards the bottom to give it some depth and tone it towards earthy colors to make them blend into the base more maybe?
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Aug 4, 2010 04:03
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Tadhg posted:I apparently am coming into possession of several WN Series 7 brushes (the Oath Thread is awesome! stabbington posted:I think college permanently damaged my brain, because a simple "hey check this issue" came out as this: DiPietro, Matt, "Lightning Quick: Speed Painting Techniques". No Quarter 30 (May 2010), pp57-60. Damnit. That is literally the only NQ issue that I do not have, from 1 to 31. ... yet. stabbington: I am in love with that satyr's eye. Aranan fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Aug 4, 2010 |
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Aug 4, 2010 04:54
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newly completed kotr:
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Aug 4, 2010 05:32
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So today I painted a test model for my Wood Elves. I wanted a scheme that could convey the vast array of bright vibrant colours of flowers and springtime. As you can see, it looks absolutely horrendous. Also the paint is really easy to rub off; not sure if that's an issue with white primer in general. Anyway, I was wondering what a good way of going about my idea was since clearly my current way is terrible. What I was thinking of was painting the elves themselves in standard green/brown and saving the bright, ostentatious colours for cloaks and shields and banners and things.
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Aug 4, 2010 13:05
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Try losing the purple and painting the purple bits blue. Then hit the whole thing with God that is Devlan Mud.
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Aug 4, 2010 13:29
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Bachtere posted:There two insanely awesome looking armies in this thread, Wood Elves and Demons: It's a pretty good idea, but I feel like at times he's changing things to change them. He's also a creppy dude who loves sculpting tiny waists and legs and sculpting breasts. Plus I really love the GW dryads, especially their fluff that most of the time they're you're typical nice friendly woodland fey creatures, but then when the forest is threatened they turn into nightmare trees. While his ones look like headcrab zombie trees. That said, he appropriately gets across the thought of slanesh and tzeentch coming to loving rape you:  FROOOOOOOOG posted:So today I painted a test model for my Wood Elves. I wanted a scheme that could convey the vast array of bright vibrant colours of flowers and springtime. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=cat50020&pIndex=1&aId=1800011&start=2 Is a good start, but after that you may want to think about using the bright colour very sparingly. Your don't see a blue tree, you see small blue flowers on a tree.
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Aug 4, 2010 13:46
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:So today I painted a test model for my Wood Elves. I wanted a scheme that could convey the vast array of bright vibrant colours of flowers and springtime. Like Wazzu said, try and picture the forest / woodland during the spring in its entirety... I'd go with lots of fresh greens, pick say two or three shades of green to use throughout the model, any colour that isn't green is going to be tiny in the grand scheme of things. Do a google image search for "summer woodland" for ideas (in comparison, do a search for "winter woodland") also, if you're dead set on using bright colours that aren't green, then pick one or two at the very most that work well with the green and stick with it. At the mo it looks like your dude had a bad stash of drugs and had a bad wardrobe day to boot.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:17
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Cross Postin' Dis:    Only 16 more points to go, till I have a fully painted 35 point list.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:19
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Prefect Six posted:So black or white primer for my ultramarines? I've read varying opinions. Seems like black would be easier, which is kinda what I'm going for seeing as this is my first real attempt at painting miniatures in 10+ years. And even then I was a kid and didn't know what I was doing Any opinions?
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Aug 4, 2010 18:28
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I prefer white for almost everything. For ultramarines I would prime white, then give the blue a couple of thin coats to make sure its covered and smooth. Dont try to one-coat it, youll end up with blotchiness or texture. Black can be difficult to work over because not all colors cover it well.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:32
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I did mine with black primer. It makes the blue darker and is a lot easier for beginners than white primer. If you're going to use yellow instead of gold for the shoulder pad just use a foundation grey to make sure it gets that separate brightness. I'm really not a fan of the bright 2nd edition style Ultramarines though so go with what you feel really.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:32
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Prefect Six posted:Any opinions? Black undercoat if you're wanting to quickly make table-quality models, white or grey if you want to spend more time painting each one and want a brighter model overall. I've been undercoating black for my Warmachine Oath models so far simply because of the amount of downward-facing angles and edges that I don't want to worry about missing a spot and looking bad since I'm painting on a schedule, but it's taking me more coats of menoth white base to get decent coverage over all the models, so it's a bit of a trade-off. Honestly, just try both on different models, see which one you prefer, and once you get a feel for the results and how they're different, you'll be able to make a choice based on what you know, not what someone on the internet says. Having said all of that, I prefer undercoating models white, and most of the really good artists I know prefer white or gray, it's just a matter of what works for you and for the model you're painting. The best thing you could do is to have a good place to spray that isn't covered in dust or exposed to the elements. On that note if anyone here has plans for a cheap-to-make spray booth, I'm all ears.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:34
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Prefect Six posted:Any opinions? ~Gray~ best of both worlds. Then again, it does depend on which blue you're going to start with... The GW foundations go over gray beautifully, but I'm not sure how how well the standard blues would go if you're using those to base, instead.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:39
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Bhyo posted:If you're going to use yellow instead of gold for the shoulder pad just use a foundation grey to make sure it gets that separate brightness. It seems a lot of the armies are 2nd Company, so I was thinking about going 5th (black) or 6th (orange). This may just end up looking incredibly goofy since the blue and yellow/gold go so well together.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:01
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:So today I painted a test model for my Wood Elves. I wanted a scheme that could convey the vast array of bright vibrant colours of flowers and springtime. I actually kinda like this.  You just need to work on your execution, everything looks like one big patch of unshaded color.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:55
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Mute the blue/yellow a little more, then apply a brownish wash and it'll pull everything together.
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Aug 4, 2010 20:15
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the issue is that it looks like a bad costume. nobody wears yellow shoes for instance. things like belts, shoes, etc should be in neutral earthtones to make the colors on everything else stand out. it also looks really weird to mix a primary color with more than one secondary color of which it is a component (e.g. green w/blue and purple at the same time)
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Aug 4, 2010 20:43
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I was poking around on the PP modeling forum and found this sweet thread: http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?29138-Thornfall-Alliance-Painting-Blog  One of my favorite things about these models are the bases. Apparently he just did the water effects with superglue. PV pulled off something similar on his recent Ios models by just using brush on gloss varnish. I've been avoiding any kind of water effects on my bases because it seems like a monstrous pain in the butt to deal with, but this might tempt me enough to try it.
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Aug 4, 2010 21:07
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Giving gesso a try for the first time for priming but didn't see any specific links in the OP for it. I know this'll take much longer than a couple hits of the spray can but not much else. I've seen mixed statements on how much to water it down. If I go 1 part water to 4 parts gesso and just make sure I give it an even thin coat I should be good? It was the liquitex black gesso surface prep I purchased if that makes a difference.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:01
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