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Syd posted:Cool, the out to out measurement of my caliper to edge of rotor is around 340-350mm or so. They're going on a '10 Legacy GT, paid $300 US. Pretty sure the brakes are still the same size so they should fit fine
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Aug 3, 2010 21:30
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jamal posted:Pretty sure the brakes are still the same size so they should fit fine Thanks. Such a pain in the rear end figuring out what fits and what doesn't but it looks like they'll be fine. gently caress Subaru for sticking with the 5x100 bolt pattern -- if you're not going new, it's a clusterfuck trying to find used wheels out there. Even moreso when you can't get cheap steelies. Now on to find winter tires (thinking Falken Eurowinters, I live in a cold area that doesn't receive much snow or ice) fix the body roll and dive into an Accessport.
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Aug 3, 2010 23:08
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Started my RS clutch job after work today. Everything is moving along swimmingly except for the tranny refusing to separate from the engine. I sprayed a poo poo ton of liquid wrench and called it a night. We'll see tomorrow. If they don't split I'm screwed.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've fit five people in my '06, and I can't possibly see the '08 being more restrictive back there. The only problem is if yours has the crazy "build it yourself" centre seatbelt, in which case you might have to deal with a bit of griping as they fish it out from below the seat cushions and put it together. I think I'll set that up before they arrive, doesn't seem too hard Amandyke posted:Rule of thumb: The number of seatbelts you have is the number of people you can fit in your car. I'm starting to think Roof Rack and box may be a good idea... unfortunately, I don't have anywhere to store the box when not in use.  I suppose the next logical question is, do you think it can take the typical luggage for four on a two week trip? (remember, I live here, so will have less)
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Aug 4, 2010 03:36
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Seriously? SERIOUSLY? I hate my luck with cars. The loving idiot rear end in a top hat who sold me my '02 WRX changed the timing belt after he bought it at auction. What I didn't know was that he overtightened the timing belt guide on the passenger side enough to have it break through and have the guide rub on the belt. I was wondering what that noise was... MOTHER. FUCKER.  So yeah. New belt and rear timing cover coming right up. Good thing I have a motorcycle and miata as backup vehicles. I'd be PISSED if it was winter.
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Aug 4, 2010 04:03
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Blaise posted:So yeah. New belt and rear timing cover coming right up. Good thing I have a motorcycle and miata as backup vehicles. I'd be PISSED if it was winter. You'd be more pissed if the belt broke and cratered your engine. You saved your car, thats a good thing 
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Aug 4, 2010 04:51
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Amandyke posted:Comfort is subjective and luggage space is why we have 5-door models. Fixed that for you.  To add some content: Is there really any reason to consider getting an AP for my 2.5i? My only real gripe that I'd hope it could fix is the occasional throttle lag at the oddest times and circumstances. Occasionally, for instance, in neighborhood driving between half-blind turns, rather than clutch in and brake, then have to slip back into gear, I'll just leave it in gear and creep to where I can properly check the intersection; I don't creep to the point of the engine lagging, but when I verify that I'm good to go ahead and take the turn and go from the few-mph I'm rolling at to the new street's 30mph, when I first step on the accelerator there's usually a good second or more of time where the car just seems to take a pause and think about it before it actually acknowledges my input. Cuntpunch fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Aug 4, 2010 |
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Aug 4, 2010 07:14
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STI plated diff is the weirded plated diff I've ever used. Dead quiet and highly drivable, not expected at all
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Aug 4, 2010 12:28
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8ender posted:You'd be more pissed if the belt broke and cratered your engine. You saved your car, thats a good thing Yeah, it is. I was supposed to drive it 600 miles this past weekend but had my friend cancel his party at the last second. Thank god. So, question is... do I: a) remove the guide, and just put a new belt on b) go through the trouble of pulling the cam pulleys, idlers, tensioners, etc, and replace the rear timing cover with a new (used one)? c) epoxy the broken cover
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Aug 4, 2010 15:35
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Slow is Fast posted:Started my RS clutch job after work today. Everything is moving along swimmingly except for the tranny refusing to separate from the engine. I sprayed a poo poo ton of liquid wrench and called it a night. We'll see tomorrow. If they don't split I'm screwed. BFD? (deadblow)
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Aug 4, 2010 15:36
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can anyone tell me what I should be expecting will need to be done for my 60k tune-up on my 2005 WRX (saabaru really). I'm due and trying to budget accordingly. before I hit 40,000 miles I was taking it to the dealer but now it's time to find a good subie mechanic in Portland.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:13
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If that's Portland Oregon, I really recommend Surgeline tuning down near Lake Oswego just off of 72nd. They run a very clean shop and have sufficient business that it isn't worth their time to goof off with your poo poo.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:56
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MMD3 posted:can anyone tell me what I should be expecting will need to be done for my 60k tune-up on my 2005 WRX (saabaru really). cars101.com has a comprehensive maintenance list for the WRX.
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Aug 4, 2010 17:36
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According to the Subaru maintenance schedule (the USA one is much easier to read than the Canadian one, drat!) you need to do:
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Aug 4, 2010 17:44
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jamal posted:We have at least one jdm grill in stock. I'll see what we have. Hey, I didn't get your initial PM cause my box was full but I'm still very interested in getting one if you have it.
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Aug 4, 2010 17:46
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There's a leak at the evaporator core of my Outback. Not looking like a cheap fix. Feeling pretty depressed/broke right now. 
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Aug 4, 2010 17:46
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Tiny Faye posted:There's a leak at the evaporator core of my Outback. Not looking like a cheap fix. Feeling pretty depressed/broke right now. Check your local wreckers for a used one if you feel like the parts will be too expensive for a new one.
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Aug 4, 2010 17:48
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Amandyke posted:Check your local wreckers for a used one if you feel like the parts will be too expensive for a new one. Noted, but I don't think it's so much the parts being expensive as it is the labor. They told me 6-8 hours. Seemed like it was going to be a royal bitch because they have to take out the dash. There's a good chance it will be covered under my extended warranty; waiting to hear back from the shop on the claim. 
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Aug 4, 2010 19:11
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Tiny Faye posted:Noted, but I don't think it's so much the parts being expensive as it is the labor. They told me 6-8 hours. Seemed like it was going to be a royal bitch because they have to take out the dash. I'd get a quote from a few other places as well. From what I'm reading from other people with outbacks, it's a fairly easy job. What year outback?
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Aug 4, 2010 19:31
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Amandyke posted:I'd get a quote from a few other places as well. From what I'm reading from other people with outbacks, it's a fairly easy job. What year outback? It's a 2004.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:36
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Tiny Faye posted:It's a 2004. Yah I'm pretty sure then that all of the hvac gear is right behind your glovebox. Should be no need to pull the entire dash apart. Where's Jamal, he'd probably know for certain.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:46
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FormulaXFD posted:If that's Portland Oregon, I really recommend Surgeline tuning down near Lake Oswego just off of 72nd. They run a very clean shop and have sufficient business that it isn't worth their time to goof off with your poo poo. I've been into their shop and they definitely have a great setup. I was thinking about doing Stage 2 at some point but then I went in a ditch last year on a snow day and it's been a low priority since. I guess I was just concerned that I'd be paying a tuning premium hourly rate for something relatively trivial... I've also had Rallitek highly recommended but same deal, didn't want to pay an extra $100+ premium for the basic stuff.
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Aug 4, 2010 20:38
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MMD3 posted:I guess I was just concerned that I'd be paying a tuning premium hourly rate for something relatively trivial... I've also had Rallitek highly recommended but same deal, didn't want to pay an extra $100+ premium for the basic stuff. I'd pass on Rallitek for any service related stuff. I know a few Legacy guys that have had issues with them, including one who blew their engine as a result of a tune they did.
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Aug 4, 2010 21:07
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dphi posted:I'd pass on Rallitek for any service related stuff. I know a few Legacy guys that have had issues with them, including one who blew their engine as a result of a tune they did. ouch, noted...
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Aug 4, 2010 21:10
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Shop rates should be different than tuna rates. Shoprate I think is $90 while the tuna rate is $200.
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Aug 5, 2010 00:16
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Just took a quick video of my engine starting, revving, and turning off. Pretty sure I need to replace my motor mounts... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvYr-t-3pe8
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Aug 5, 2010 01:12
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Got perhaps a rookie engine-builders' question: I'm seeing some mondo horsepower builds locally where they've mixed the heads and blocks from different engines (e.g. a USDM EJ257 block with JDM EJ207 heads). Is that just to get special features of the heads (AVCS, sodium-filled valves, crazytown cams) while maintaining the larger displacement? I'm assuming in this situation that "heads" refers to the cylinder head (valves, ports, cams) and not any part of the reciprocating mass. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 04:41
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mixing heads and blocks of different displacement is generally a bad idea. You end up with a strange combustion chamber shape that's more prone to detonation. There are a few places that can cnc 2.0 heads to match up to a 2.5 block, which is the ideal way to do a hybrid build. Some of the jdm heads have better porting, but it's nothing you can't do to the stock heads.
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Aug 5, 2010 05:02
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Amandyke posted:Just took a quick video of my engine starting, revving, and turning off. Pretty sure I need to replace my motor mounts... That looks fine?
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Aug 5, 2010 06:07
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Blaise posted:Yeah, it is. I was supposed to drive it 600 miles this past weekend but had my friend cancel his party at the last second. Thank god. just take off the guide. Pulling the cam gears is a pain in the rear end and more potential to gently caress things up by stripping out the bolt. Slow is Fast posted:Started my RS clutch job after work today. Everything is moving along swimmingly except for the tranny refusing to separate from the engine. I sprayed a poo poo ton of liquid wrench and called it a night. We'll see tomorrow. If they don't split I'm screwed. impact hammer does the trick for me on those pesky older cars. Usually just using a flat bit right at the seam will knock them apart. Bob Log posted:Hey, I didn't get your initial PM cause my box was full but I'm still very interested in getting one if you have it. sorry I keep forgetting. Fairly certain the grill we have is this one, and is white: http://www.aqmotorsports.com/piece-grille-20022003-sedan-wagon-p-2212.html not sure on wagon vs sedan also need to see if we have any others in stock. and holy christ $423 retail, but we're pretty much taking offers on most of the jdm poo poo we've had sitting in stock upstairs. Think we sold a $500 v-limited lip for like $300 recently. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 06:32
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jamal posted:impact hammer does the trick for me on those pesky older cars. Usually just using a flat bit right at the seam will knock them apart. I had an old 240SX that we attempted to change the clutch on, but the clutch plate actually had *literally welded itself* to the input spline of the transmission. Had to tow it somewhere that had a lift, and they ended up having to cut the bellhousing enough so they could unbolt the pressure plate. It was loving ridiculous.
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Aug 5, 2010 06:36
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Buttoned up most of my clutch job yesterday. Stuck dowel pins was the hold up. We ended up torching the passenger side trying to punch it through to no avail, so we said gently caress it and drilled that fucker out some. Wood block and a hammer split the thing and we were smooth sailing from there. I would have had it all done yesterday, but our buddy is going to TIG the crack in my exhaust this morning so after work it's get the exhaust on and give it a test drive. I'm pumped.
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Aug 5, 2010 11:20
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jamal posted:just take off the guide. Pulling the cam gears is a pain in the rear end and more potential to gently caress things up by stripping out the bolt. Any stuff for a '99 impreza :p
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Aug 5, 2010 13:42
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jamal posted:just take off the guide. Pulling the cam gears is a pain in the rear end and more potential to gently caress things up by stripping out the bolt. Why is pulling the cam gears that difficult? I've had them off on many other cars and the only one I *HATED* was for my mazda6 because it was not keyed and therefor needed to make my own tool to hold the cam in place while I tightened the cam gear back onto it.
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Aug 5, 2010 14:01
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8ender posted:That looks fine? Well engine mounts are the only reason I can think of as to why the car is pulling timing low down while slipping the clutch to get moving. And as to why my DAM went down to a 1 after a 4th gear WOT pull from 2500 rpm to 5000 rpm. Car's not making any strange noises, just put new denso iridium plugs in, cleaned the maf, new air filter. My assumption is that the motor is shaking enough under load that it's causing the knock sensor to go crazy. The car is 7 years old with 97000 miles on it. Unless it's a bad knock sensor... No idea how to diagnose that though. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 16:45
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Blaise posted:Why is pulling the cam gears that difficult? I've had them off on many other cars and the only one I *HATED* was for my mazda6 because it was not keyed and therefor needed to make my own tool to hold the cam in place while I tightened the cam gear back onto it. They use a socket cap bolt that is very tight and very easy to round out.
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Aug 5, 2010 21:35
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My clutch saga finished up tonight. Got the exhaust on, started it up, clutch feels good. Pull out of the garage and go to turn around in the yard to test it. Something is grinding. gently caress. The grinding sounds exactly like when you have something grinding on the rotor of the brake system. Everything looks good. We put it on the lift, spun each tire by hand, no grinding. Drove it down the road, it grinds when it's in gear and is increased by speed. Clutch in no grind. Coast in neutral, no grind. This rules out my axles and driveshaft? Leading me to believe that it's something in my trans, or maybe the new clutch assembly. Could it also be more NVH from the Group N trans mount I put in? I have no loving clue at this point. Dad drove it home from our friends lift. Ten minutes city, ten highway, ten country roads; and it's sitting in the driveway waiting for me to drive it to work tomorrow. Should I be making GBS threads myself? Running it until something breaks? Throwing the keys at the dealer? I'm at a loss as to wtf.
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Aug 6, 2010 05:15
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Have a question about the endearing "piston slap" than many earlier model Subies exhibit. I have a 99 Outback 2.5L. I get the classic slap in winter that goes away in about 5 min after startup. It's worse when it's cold but it's hot as hell here with temps consistently in the upper 90's. At startup the engine will make the same sound around 1200-1400 rpm until it's warmed up. The engine is a tad "rough" at this rpm range. Above or below that rev range and it's fine. I don't know if it's using oil because I have a leak at the "rear main seal gasket cover", the square shaped gasket right next to the actual output shaft. Is this normal with in a car with 125k? I got it at 98k and have kept up on all maintenance. The head gasket, cam seals, belt etc were replaced at 100k if it matters. Thanks!
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Aug 6, 2010 07:56
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Some of you may remember me complaining about my mirror being knocked off by a snowplow, and my car also being keyed. It was keyed again on Monday and I have had enough. I am having all dents and dings and keying fixed, a full detail done, and then I am selling my World Rally Blue 06 STI. It only has 30K miles on it. I was not doing that car justice by letting it get beat up on street parking. In a few weeks it will be gone, and I will be sad. In other news if anyone is looking for an STI that was well maintained and has low miles, I'm your guy. 
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Aug 6, 2010 14:28
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TeMpLaR posted:Some of you may remember me complaining about my mirror being knocked off by a snowplow, and my car also being keyed. It was keyed again on Monday and I have had enough. Get a nice Legacy GT and you won't feel so sad.
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Aug 6, 2010 16:12
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