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Timmy Cruise posted:Any tips on getting the back clip into the distributor cap on a 97 ABA? Just in case anyone else runs into trouble with this, it turns out the back clip wasn't pivoting where it is in the distributor housing and thus could not reach where it needed to clip in. I used some penetrant and got it moving. Also, a set of 45* bent pliers helped (3.99 @ Princess Auto).
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Aug 1, 2010 18:59
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Mister Duck posted:Well dealer told me nothing is wrong, even though I got that error in vag-com and the car went into that safe mode thing. This often happens - particularly when the vehicle is still under warranty. It's not the dealership's call. The first step in the repair process is to verify the complaint and if we can't verify it or find evidence in the fault logs then warranty/corporate makes us stop diagnosis. Any work or time we spend moving ahead after that point is subject to an audit which means the dealership loses money. If something is wrong it'll re-occur.
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Aug 2, 2010 03:41
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Can a car have some kind of error or light and then never have it reappear again? How often do you see something like that happening, if at all?
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Aug 2, 2010 05:43
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Autism Sundae posted:Can a car have some kind of error or light and then never have it reappear again? How often do you see something like that happening, if at all? A water droplet in the fuel could cause a cylinder to misfire a few times which could trigger a CEL.
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Aug 2, 2010 15:04
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Autism Sundae posted:Can a car have some kind of error or light and then never have it reappear again? How often do you see something like that happening, if at all? Not generally. Once there's a problem that turns on the MIL or any other warning light it's usually because there's a real problem that requires attention. There's an exception to every rule of course but it's rare for a problem to manifest itself and then disappear never to return again.
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Aug 2, 2010 16:46
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I can't seem to get my bug to start. Anyone know what might be the problem? Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Aug 2, 2010 18:14
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While we're on the top of aircooleds, I've been thinking of picking one up as a project car - preferably some variety of Type 3. Can anyone point me to a good article, or better, a book that will tell me what I should look for when finding a good vehicle?
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Aug 2, 2010 19:08
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Tetraptous posted:While we're on the top of aircooleds, I've been thinking of picking one up as a project car - preferably some variety of Type 3. Can anyone point me to a good article, or better, a book that will tell me what I should look for when finding a good vehicle? Mostly it depends on where the car has spent most of its life. Luckily my 59 is a native Colorado car so it only had minimal body rust, no rot. Although spending 25 years in the weather with no roof (ragtop sunroof) the floors were gone. Just got it back yesterday. When you say project, what exactly are you looking for. Something that's been in a barn for the last 20 years? Something that is already on the road? It's almost always cheaper to buy a car that someone else spent 20 grand restoring than to spend it all yourself, unless you're into that sort of thing. My project is a 59 all numbers matching original sunroof bug. But the interior is nonexistent, it hasn't been started or driven since the early 80s and just to buy it, wheel it home and get new floorpans i'm already in for close to 3000 bucks.
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Aug 2, 2010 20:17
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"Project" more in terms of mostly working, but I anticipate having to do some amount of work to keep it running well, rather than a bare unpainted shell I'll need to reassemble into a working vehicle. From what I can see, you can buy a mostly functional car (e.g. drivetrain works, decent exterior, but needs brakes and rough interior) for little enough that it seems silly to do a full restoration. This would be my first older vehicle, and I'm not sure I'm ready to chew off something quite as big as a restoration, yet. It seems like rust is the #1 issue - just want to make sure I know where to look.
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Aug 2, 2010 22:09
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I have a 2002 gti vr6 with manual transmission. The car has always been great but this morning it went very bad. At some point the dash light up like a christmas tree and then it all shut down except for the TCS light (I wasnt even triggering it on by driving hard). Then the light shut down but the wipers starting by themselves and when they reach the top of their cycle or the bottom the turn signals light up on the dash (but not outside) and the highbeams light up on the dash (but not outside). When I stop, like for a stop sign, it all stops but starts again as I drive away. I found out that if I try to use highbeams, turn signals or hazard lights or wipers it all starts acting crazy again. If i put myself on the handbrake it cures the problem for a few minutes. Turning the car off will not even stop it all, I had to unplug the battery cause the wipers were still going on and the city lights wouldn't light off. Even tried pulling the wiper fuses, I had no more control over them but they kept going on by themselves. Help? Is there some kind of controller for the highbeams, turn signals and wipers? Took the ignition switch out, changed it, problem still occurs. It may be a faulty hazard switch relay since I can make the problem disappear by turning on the hazards (everything goes back to normal for a few minutes) and there has been a recall for it, it affects turn signals, highbeams but not wipers? It's my next option. I'll test the battery tomorrow and see whats up. But it could make electrical go off and on randomly? Because I'm not talking about my wipers working 50% of the time or really slowly, they just go off real slow by themselves but if I fix the problem (temporarily) they work 100%. Although it does make sense since the problem would occur after haven driven for awhile (every time I fixed it I had been stopped for some time) and the battery could run out of juice, I guess. I took out the hazards fuse and havent had the problem reoccur since then, but I havent had the chance to use the car much.
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Aug 3, 2010 17:21
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Absorbs Smaller Goons posted:I have a 2002 gti vr6 with manual transmission. The car has always been great but this morning it went very bad. At some point the dash light up like a christmas tree and then it all shut down except for the TCS light (I wasnt even triggering it on by driving hard). Then the light shut down but the wipers starting by themselves and when they reach the top of their cycle or the bottom the turn signals light up on the dash (but not outside) and the highbeams light up on the dash (but not outside). When I stop, like for a stop sign, it all stops but starts again as I drive away. I found out that if I try to use highbeams, turn signals or hazard lights or wipers it all starts acting crazy again. If i put myself on the handbrake it cures the problem for a few minutes. Turning the car off will not even stop it all, I had to unplug the battery cause the wipers were still going on and the city lights wouldn't light off. Even tried pulling the wiper fuses, I had no more control over them but they kept going on by themselves. Sounds like a short in the stalk. The highbeams and turn signals are on the same stalk correct?
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Aug 3, 2010 23:35
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veedubfreak posted:Sounds like a short in the stalk. The highbeams and turn signals are on the same stalk correct? Nearly every A4-style Jetta/Golf had it's 4-way switch (in the dash) replaced for this type of problem BUT the symptoms of a bad turn signal switch are nearly identical except that a bad turn signal switch can turn into the problems you're having. The problem with the turn signal switch (stalk) is that it uses a laminated wire assembly that has to flex slightly every time you hit the turn signals or flash your high-beams so over time the laminate cracks and the fibers break causing all kinds of problems. The actual flasher relay is inside the 4-way switch so when you unplug that switch you're also disconnecting the turn signal switch so that explains why the problems disappear with it unplugged. As an FYI - to replace the turn signal switch you must remove the airbag in the steering wheel, the steering wheel and the steering column trim so make sure you've got the tools to do it before you jump in.
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Aug 4, 2010 01:20
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my1999gsr posted:As an FYI - to replace the turn signal switch you must remove the airbag in the steering wheel, the steering wheel and the steering column trim so make sure you've got the tools to do it before you jump in. As a jump-off of this, I had to replace the turn signal stalk in my car and encountered a bolt requiring a "M12 triple-square driver" (this may also be in your car, not quite sure). Instead of wasting the money buying a set of these just for one little job, use an Allen wrench - if you passed geometry, you should notice that it fits perfectly 
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Aug 4, 2010 02:04
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If your going to be working on a newer dub a set of triple squares is a worthwhile investment.
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Aug 4, 2010 02:08
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I just bought a 2010 Jetta TDI today. I'm so happy about it. Almost dead silent on the road and it feels wonderful to be driving a manual transmission again. Of course at the first stoplight on the test drive I stalled it, but considering the salesperson stalled it when attempting to pull it out of the parking space I didn't feel bad. Just a very quick question though. Is it possible to turn off the beep when you lock the vehicle? From reading the manual the beep isn't from the locking but instead from the alarm being armed. Not a big deal, I just feel bad if I come in late to my apartment complex and the horn beeps. Is this something I'm just going to have to learn to not be concerned over?
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Aug 4, 2010 03:01
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I think with vag-com you can do it.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:14
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CaptBubba posted:I just bought a 2010 Jetta TDI today. I'm so happy about it. Almost dead silent on the road and it feels wonderful to be driving a manual transmission again. Of course at the first stoplight on the test drive I stalled it, but considering the salesperson stalled it when attempting to pull it out of the parking space I didn't feel bad. You will have to get over it -- all the other residents in an apartment already have. That said, Autism Sundae is right, VCDS can do it. Go to tdiclub.com or vwvortex.com and find someone local with it, because it's really expensive ($500+). I also highly, highly suggest a set of XZN (3-square) sockets. I got my set for $40 on Amazon, and I no longer worry about stripping anything when working on this car.
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Aug 4, 2010 05:04
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insta posted:You will have to get over it -- all the other residents in an apartment already have. That said, Autism Sundae is right, VCDS can do it. Go to tdiclub.com or vwvortex.com and find someone local with it, because it's really expensive ($500+). Eh, for that much trouble it isn't worth it. I was just curious if there was some secret "left right left right up down ok back" code you could input to the setup accessed through the steering wheel controls. As far as tools go, I'm not touching this thing for maintenance until the warranty on the vehicle runs its course. I had a (third party) warranty company try to deny my claim for a new head on my old Honda civic until I produced all the scheduled maintenance receipts. Apparently tire rotations are important to the out of spec camshaft bearings which already had a TSB recommending head replacement. Then they attempted to argue that since the camshaft positioning error code didn't come back on immediately that the head shouldn't be replaced, despite their own adjuster measuring play in the shaft triple the max spec. So I'm now paranoid and know a good VW mechanic, so I hope I am in good shape. Or is VW reasonable about their warranty service?
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Aug 4, 2010 14:10
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For my 2002 GTI vr6, I am waiting on a 4 way switch as I have no idea if the P.O. did the TSB recall on it. Next step is the turn signal stalk, but the wierd thing about all that is the wipers get power when the hazards flash. They go reeeal slow since the hazards flash once a second or so so they get power every second or so.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:03
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insta posted:You will have to get over it -- all the other residents in an apartment already have. That said, Autism Sundae is right, VCDS can do it. Go to tdiclub.com or vwvortex.com and find someone local with it, because it's really expensive ($500+). VCDS with a micro-CAN interface is only $250, not $500.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:50
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my1999gsr I got another quick question for you, I was looking around under the hood and noticed that there's some wet oil or grease along the edge of the valve cover. It's only in one particular spot at the front, and I'm not sure if it's oil or something else. The darker red grease in that spot is bubbling up a bit as if there's oil seeping through from under the valve cover, but I'm thinking it's a bit unlikely that there would be any oil leaks on a car this new. I wiped it off a bit but it still looks wet. There's also some oil spots above but I think that's just drops from an old oil change. Took pics because I wouldn't expect anyone to know what the hell I'm talking about without visual aid: The spot I'm talking about is under the hose/black wire connector  In the yellow box, that area just always looks wet but nothing else is like that along the valve cover  Another shot, sorry for phone camera quality (hard to focus too)  I guess my question boils down to "is there some oil seepage or is that just grease getting hot and melting in that one particular spot"
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Aug 4, 2010 23:10
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Autism Sundae posted:I think with vag-com you can do it. Or you can just talk to the salesman that sold you the car and see if he can get it done for free through the service department. We do it all the time for new customers.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:43
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So I had my 1.8t flashed to APR software yesterday. My god, you wouldn't think that going from 180hp to 210 could really make that much difference, but the extra torque is ridiculous when stomping around in traffic. I'm so going to get in trouble soon.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:49
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Autism Sundae posted:my1999gsr I got another quick question for you, I was looking around under the hood and noticed that there's some wet oil or grease along the edge of the valve cover. It's only in one particular spot at the front, and I'm not sure if it's oil or something else. The red stuff you're seeing is the remains of the sealant VW uses on the cam girdle. For the first few months they all seem to sweat out some of that sealant and then stop. The sealant itself is anerobic and it turns into a semi-flexible varnish to seal the girdle to the head but some of it gets squeezed out. Since it's anerobic, the sealant takes forever to evaporate/dry up but it's nothing to worry about.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:50
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CaptBubba posted:Eh, for that much trouble it isn't worth it. I was just curious if there was some secret "left right left right up down ok back" code you could input to the setup accessed through the steering wheel controls. VW warranty is generally very reasonable to deal with but how you're treated is also at the discretion of the service manager at your dealership and that is where things can break down. Cultivate a good relationship with your salesperson - they can sometimes help if you get into a dispute.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:53
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my1999gsr posted:Or you can just talk to the salesman that sold you the car and see if he can get it done for free through the service department. We do it all the time for new customers. My dealer did it for free on my Golf TDI, they said a lot of people ask to have it turned off. Just ask to have it done when you take it in for service if you can wait that long. Does anyone know if the 15000 km service interval in the manual on the new TDIs is sufficient or should I be changing the oil more often?
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Aug 5, 2010 00:05
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my1999gsr posted:The red stuff you're seeing is the remains of the sealant VW uses on the cam girdle. For the first few months they all seem to sweat out some of that sealant and then stop. The sealant itself is anerobic and it turns into a semi-flexible varnish to seal the girdle to the head but some of it gets squeezed out. Since it's anerobic, the sealant takes forever to evaporate/dry up but it's nothing to worry about. Sweet, thanks man! I guess it does take forever, the car is seven months old already. Why is it in one spot only though, just because there was more sealant there? Back to the subject of dry window seals, this: http://www.1z-usa.com/einszett_gummi_pflege.html rules and is far better than the 3M silicone spray stuff. Silicone spray coats the seals but doesn't actually moisturize them so noise isn't reduced at all. I had another weird noise complaint about my car, a creaking noise from the rear that happened every time I went up on a driveway or any uneven surface. It was annoying the poo poo out of me and dealership couldn't figure out what it was since everything in the trunk seemed really tight and secure and not prone to making noises. Well, over the weekend I took a closer look at the trunk and as I was pulling out the molded plastic pieces that sit under the trunk cover (around the spare) I got that same loud creaking noise. Turns out the plastic piece was rubbing against the body somehow, I put some foam tape under it and it's perfectly quiet now (fingers crossed). I've never heard of anyone else having this issue but maybe this will help someone.
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Aug 5, 2010 00:20
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veedubfreak posted:So I had my 1.8t flashed to APR software yesterday. My god, you wouldn't think that going from 180hp to 210 could really make that much difference, but the extra torque is ridiculous when stomping around in traffic. I'm so going to get in trouble soon. Glad to hear this. I'm thinking about doing it to my 2.0 TSI sometime within the next year. Did you get it in during the sale?
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Aug 5, 2010 00:42
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DippingBird posted:My dealer did it for free on my Golf TDI, they said a lot of people ask to have it turned off. Just ask to have it done when you take it in for service if you can wait that long. We stick to the VW service interval of 15,000 kms on the TDI cars since they use a good synthetic oil as part of the warranty but there's no way I would wait that long if I owned the car. On a new TDI I would probably go 8000 kms between oil changes at most. That may just be old-school thinking since the quality of motor oil has come so far but I always look at a more frequent oil change interval as cheap insurance for the most expensive part of the vehicle. I'm also a little biased since I get a very good deal on my oil - the GSR gets new oil (5w30 non-synthetic) every 2000 kms or so but I beat that car like it's my job.
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Aug 5, 2010 01:15
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veedubfreak posted:So I had my 1.8t flashed to APR software yesterday. My god, you wouldn't think that going from 180hp to 210 could really make that much difference, but the extra torque is ridiculous when stomping around in traffic. I'm so going to get in trouble soon. Yeah, no kidding. Try going from 150hp to 200. Do you find yourself wishing the boost stays on longer towards redline? I do and its been about 3 weeks.
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Aug 5, 2010 02:33
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my1999gsr posted:. That may just be old-school thinking since the quality of motor oil has come so far but so have engines, and the VW DI petrol / diesel engines do a number on oil in terms of fuel dilution i stick to 10k mi intervals on my GTI, but that's only because I end up topping up 1qt every 2k miles because that's the rate it consumes it, so i get to refresh my add pack 4 or 5 times before i change the whole thing out
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Aug 5, 2010 08:01
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Is that for an MKV? I don't think my GTI consumes any noticeable amounts of oil, my first oil change was at 4K and second one at 7K just now but I didn't see any major changes when checking oil levels.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:04
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Timmy Cruise posted:Yeah, no kidding. Try going from 150hp to 200. Do you find yourself wishing the boost stays on longer towards redline? I do and its been about 3 weeks. Boost seems to stay fine all the way to redline. You might have a bad diverter if you are losing boost. Ya, the shop I had it done at was able to get APR to extend the sale. If you call around and ask, they said APR extended the sale price until the 12th.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:22
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Autism Sundae posted:Is that for an MKV? I don't think my GTI consumes any noticeable amounts of oil, my first oil change was at 4K and second one at 7K just now but I didn't see any major changes when checking oil levels. MkV engine has a reputation for eating a fair amount of oil. I seem to recall the quote being 1qt per 2000 miles as being within acceptable limits, notwithstanding that you could end up with basically an empty oil pan after 10k while still being within VW's tolerances for oil consumption. I believe the Mk6 engine does not have the same issue. I'm at about 6300 miles now and haven't noticed anything when checking my oil, and I haven't had it changed yet.
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Aug 5, 2010 17:16
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The MKVI manual does actually mention something close to 1qt per 2K miles, but yeah I'm not seeing anything like that.
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Aug 5, 2010 17:36
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Some people on the MKVI had their oil analyzed by blackstone: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4918 I might do something similar. One guy did it at 6.7k and no problems. Wonder what results someone with a MKV would get. Of course it won't be new by now, but the test might be good to have.
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Aug 5, 2010 17:50
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Autism Sundae posted:The MKVI manual does actually mention something close to 1qt per 2K miles, but yeah I'm not seeing anything like that. FSIs used to chew through oil. The TSI engines are much better. I don't get any oil loss on my TSI (at least nothing noticeable). I do 5k changes though since I am stage 2. Haven't done any analysis on the oil though. Might do that soon.
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Aug 5, 2010 21:20
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I'm going to send a sample to Blackstone this week, don't know how useful it will be since it's the second oil change and only from 4K to 7K but I'll post the results here. JHVH how's your flash so far?
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Aug 5, 2010 21:25
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primitive posted:but so have engines, and the VW DI petrol / diesel engines do a number on oil in terms of fuel dilution Yes, diesel engines are terribly hard on their oil - I use nitrile gloves any time I handle used oil from a TDI because it's so thin.
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Aug 5, 2010 23:02
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Autism Sundae posted:I'm going to send a sample to Blackstone this week, don't know how useful it will be since it's the second oil change and only from 4K to 7K but I'll post the results here. JHVH how's your flash so far? I haven't had any problems with the flash. Performance is great. The extra horsepower is nice, and the torque pulls like crazy. You can be rolling down the highway doing 45 and pass a car doing 100 a few seconds later. I might do the upgraded intake at some point, but the flash alone was worth the money. Since you don't need any physical mods is the best place to start with and APR stands by their product pretty well. They enter you in their database when it is flash so they know right away. So if anything happens and you need a reflash if something happens to the ECU or when upgrade to stage 2 (which is free if you buy stage 1) they have you on record.
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Aug 5, 2010 23:33
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