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Well my 1990 volvo 740's speedo is starting to act up. It works fine at low speeds but once you get on the freeway within a min or so it starts dropping, from 65-50 then eventually down to 0. Ive read http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm which gives me a bit of insight. Ive checked the connector at the rear axle, the wires look fine. The plug doesnt seat all the way but gets a ton of contact and is drat near impossible to unplug, a junkyard volvo Ive looked at shows the same thing, plug almost all the way in getting plenty of contact with the leads. I tried to remove the gauge cluster to take a peek however the instructions on the site listed earlier dont quite cover my car. The 740 instructions they have are nothing like my car, its much closer to the 940 instructions. I cant even get the black surround infront of the cluster off. I can get it to move about 3-4 mm and thats it. Most of my finger tips are bruised from trying to leverage it out. I tried a screw driver in each of those side slot things pushing in a tab but that didnt help at all. Im stumped right now and I kinda need the speedo to be working. Is there any chance its the sensor in the axle it self? The problems are almost always the same, works fine at lower speeds, stops working once at 60 mph for a min. Comes back once the car has been off for a few mins, then goes away as it had before. Im thinking heat may be involved in some way which leads me to the sensor.
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Aug 3, 2010 00:04
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ExtremeODD posted:Well my 1990 volvo 740's speedo is starting to act up. It works fine at low speeds but once you get on the freeway within a min or so it starts dropping, from 65-50 then eventually down to 0. Ive read http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm which gives me a bit of insight. Ive checked the connector at the rear axle, the wires look fine. The plug doesnt seat all the way but gets a ton of contact and is drat near impossible to unplug, a junkyard volvo Ive looked at shows the same thing, plug almost all the way in getting plenty of contact with the leads. I tried to remove the gauge cluster to take a peek however the instructions on the site listed earlier dont quite cover my car. The 740 instructions they have are nothing like my car, its much closer to the 940 instructions. I cant even get the black surround infront of the cluster off. I can get it to move about 3-4 mm and thats it. Most of my finger tips are bruised from trying to leverage it out. I tried a screw driver in each of those side slot things pushing in a tab but that didnt help at all. Im stumped right now and I kinda need the speedo to be working. Can you post a photo of your dashboard? There's a couple instrument clusters, it would help. Not that I know what the answer to your speedo is, but I could tell you how to get the panel out.
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Aug 3, 2010 03:30
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ExtremeODD posted:I tried to remove the gauge cluster to take a peek however the instructions on the site listed earlier dont quite cover my car. The 740 instructions they have are nothing like my car, its much closer to the 940 instructions. I cant even get the black surround infront of the cluster off. I can get it to move about 3-4 mm and thats it. Most of my finger tips are bruised from trying to leverage it out. I tried a screw driver in each of those side slot things pushing in a tab but that didnt help at all. Im stumped right now and I kinda need the speedo to be working. It could be just dirt as well. Try just taking it out and clean it. To remove that surround, you do want to push in the slots with a small screwdriver, what I used to always do was hold the screwdriver with both hands, and use it as a handle to pull towards the steering wheel after shoving it in to the spring clip. You might have to push farther than you realize. You should feel some springy resistance as you push it in. Once you get the feel it'll be easy forever. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 06:09
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For some reason someone has stolen a wheel bolt from me. I swear they were all there when I bought it home, now there's one missing. Anyway, on today's list is - can I repair a broken door check strap myself? Electric wing mirrors only partially function - should I start at the mirrors or the switches?
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Aug 3, 2010 17:27
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Cakefool posted:For some reason someone has stolen a wheel bolt from me. I swear they were all there when I bought it home, now there's one missing. The door panel switches have the tendency to stop working..normally it's the window module, but it wouldn't surprise me if the mirror switch has similar issues. I think IPD has the door check part and they might have instructions included with it..
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Aug 3, 2010 19:11
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Cakefool posted:For some reason someone has stolen a wheel bolt from me. I swear they were all there when I bought it home, now there's one missing. Immediately go check the torque on the rest of them. They can and do fall out on their own if improperly torqued, followed of course by the wheel itself.
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Aug 3, 2010 19:26
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Is there a UK or Euro version of IPD or something similar? Google gives me loads of options, but can anyone recommend one? I'll be picking up some more nuts tomorrow, I'll check them all then. (edit: I won't be driving it until then) Anyway, more stupid questions: Whilst vacuuming up the dead spiders (wolf) & sand I found this under the rear seat:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. It's only on one side & looks like some kind of bizarre chemical pack. Any ideas?
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Aug 3, 2010 21:42
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LloydDobler posted:Immediately go check the torque on the rest of them. They can and do fall out on their own if improperly torqued, followed of course by the wheel itself. Stupid Pep Boys techs didn't torque mine down properly at all when I got new tires on, bolt covers on my lovely ASA wheels kept me from losing two lugs.
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Aug 3, 2010 21:42
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Well update on the speedometer: I got the damned bezel off, just needed to push the screw driver into the side tab much much harder, bastard goes in an inch! Didnt quite realize the thing was metal, thought it was plastic. Got the gauges out and they looked fine from the back. I drove around a bit till the speedo crapped out as usual then put my multimeter into the S+ and the S- on the speedo connector. It would read a steady increase in volts (well it was set to 200m whatever that is, its my lowest voltage setting) until about 6.0 or so and just stop there which was Im guessing 40ish (when the speedo would decide not to read anymore). It would stay there even up to what could be assumed to be mid 60s. So I ran to the junkyard and got a new (used) sender and a new (used) speedo for a grand total of like $15 bux. Tried the other speedo, it read a bit low until 40 then it would hit 70 and stay there even when driving over 70 or below it. Replaced that with my old speedo and swapped out the sender. At this point the wife had to go to work. I asked her a moment ago and she said it worked the whole way there however she would hit a max of 40 or so the way there so Ill have to test it later to see if that was the fix that was needed. Also the inside of the rear diff smells like loving assholes, horrible rotting assholes.
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Aug 3, 2010 22:01
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Automotive Insanity > Volvo Megathread v 2.0 - The Goatse Here is in Your Diff
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Aug 4, 2010 02:58
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ExtremeODD posted:Also the inside of the rear diff smells like loving assholes, horrible rotting assholes. It seriously does. And if you're lovely about maintenance like I am and cook the oil inside of it, it smells like lighting those assholes on fire. My Bentley manual has like, zero useful information on removing the final drive unit or performing internal maintenance (understandably so on that last part). I'm picking up the Haynes on Friday. If that doesn't give me anything more useful, I'm just going to go ahead with pulling what I know and going from there.
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Aug 4, 2010 07:40
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When I pulled out the sender should fluid come out? None did for me, there was some on the sender but nothing actually came out, its level with the (I think) fill plug.
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Aug 4, 2010 10:11
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Does anyone have an owners manual that tells me how much oil is required for a '99 V70 TDI? Also, there is no Haynes manual for my car  (Not that covers this engine or the early V70. 850 is covered but petrol only)
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Aug 4, 2010 14:04
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Well after driving around for a bit my speedo is still loving up. This leads me to believe I have something wrong with it, like leaking caps and whatnot. How exciting, the only other speedo I could get my hands on also doesnt work right. It pegs itself at 70 for some odd reason and stays there. Now I gotta either get a gps speedo or cough up for a new cluster.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:08
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I’m looking for some help with an ongoing problem with my 89 manual 5 speed (m47) 240. It has always been difficult to shift into first and second is even worse. The difficulty seems to lie in the sideways portion of the shifting motion. It seems like it requires a lot of force to get it over far enough to get into the gate and then engage. Once it is over far enough the forward or back motion does not seem to require as much effort nor does it grind into gear. I mentioned this here previously and someone said that repairing a broken motor mount remedied a similar problem. I have replaced both motor mounts and the transmission mount and it may have slightly improved for a brief time (probably all in my head) but now it is as bad as ever or maybe worse. It makes driving around town a real pain in the rear end. Could this possibly be the syncro or some other transmission related problem (which I’m clueless on) or is it more likely some kind of gearbox alignment or linkage problem? I plan on pulling the shifter boot to find out what I can see down there. Does anyone have any ideas or things to look for the next time I crawl under the car?
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Aug 4, 2010 21:10
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It might be the shifter bushings. This won't let you inspect them, but have you pulled the boot up from around the shifter to visually inspect what's going on underneath?
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Aug 4, 2010 23:39
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ExtremeODD posted:Well after driving around for a bit my speedo is still loving up. This leads me to believe I have something wrong with it, like leaking caps and whatnot. How exciting, the only other speedo I could get my hands on also doesnt work right. It pegs itself at 70 for some odd reason and stays there. Now I gotta either get a gps speedo or cough up for a new cluster. The 90/91/92 740's had lovely speedos, stemming from a batch of bad capacitors on the circuit board inside of the speedo itself. I tried to fix mine but hosed up the ribbon cable when I was trying to unsolder it. I went through 3 of them before I found one that would work reliably, and just a few weeks ago the odometer portion of it died. There's even a FAQ that covers the exact subject! http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/ElectricalSpeedometerRepair.htm You can fix the problem for about $1.25 in capacitors, but you better be drat handy with a soldering iron.
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Aug 5, 2010 00:17
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I finally installed my $120 set of craigslist Virgos on the 240. Man, they look sweet. 
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Aug 5, 2010 02:21
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Jack_Handey posted:The 90/91/92 740's had lovely speedos, stemming from a batch of bad capacitors on the circuit board inside of the speedo itself. I tried to fix mine but hosed up the ribbon cable when I was trying to unsolder it. I went through 3 of them before I found one that would work reliably, and just a few weeks ago the odometer portion of it died. Yeah its an exact copy of what http://www.brickboard.com has to offer. I can solder stuff but have never messed with circuit boards. I guess I can mess with the 940 junkyard one I got and worst comes to worse I can return it to the junkyard within 33 days. For now I know about 2700 rpm is ~65 2300 is ~50, good enough for me at the moment. Ill get either a cheapie gps with a speedo or one of those dash ones that project on to the windshield. Im just worried the ic chip may be toast. Maybe someone will trade 1 good cluster for my 2 bad ones on turbo bricks heh. Are there any generic speedos that can read the signal from the volvo's sender? Its a basic pulse type of some kind, hell one of the ways to test is jam wires into the socket that plugs into the sender and short them real quick over and over a few times. ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Aug 5, 2010 |
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Aug 5, 2010 02:45
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I think I have figured out the solution to my shift problem. The reverse detent plate seems to be preventing the lever from moving far enough to the left. For anyone interested:http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq posted:M-47 Shift Linkage Causes Hard Shift. So I just need to remove the shift boot. It seems to be clipped down through holes on the corners of the bottom of the boot, under the carpet. Does anyone know the procedure for removal? Please dont make me pull up the carpet.
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Aug 5, 2010 03:50
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ch1mp posted:So I just need to remove the shift boot. It seems to be clipped down through holes on the corners of the bottom of the boot, under the carpet. Does anyone know the procedure for removal? Please dont make me pull up the carpet. You mean the rubber bellows thing? As I recall, you lift the bottom bellow (closest to the floor) and pop the clips out. Here's what the clips look like. FYI, Bentley (page 430-3) says the "clearance from the detent plate to detent sleeve (shift lever) in 1st and 2nd gear = .5-1.5 mm" It also says to check it in both first and second gears. I can scan the whole page tomorrow if you don't have a copy.
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Aug 5, 2010 04:23
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two forty posted:FYI, Bentley (page 430-3) says the "clearance from the detent plate to detent sleeve (shift lever) in 1st and 2nd gear = .5-1.5 mm" It also says to check it in both first and second gears. I can scan the whole page tomorrow if you don't have a copy. That would be helpful, guess I really should get the bentley some day - Thanks for that and the clip pic.
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Aug 5, 2010 05:02
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V70 wheel bolts are the rarest fit in the world apparently. Have you ever tried to get hold of a non-locking bolt without a scrap yard or a volvo dealer? Strangely, the bloke at the worst tacky chrome shite shop was the most helpful, ordering me a bunch in for tomorrow. He did tell me I could fit 20"s on there though, good to know 
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Aug 5, 2010 09:41
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Cakefool posted:V70 wheel bolts are the rarest fit in the world apparently. Have you ever tried to get hold of a non-locking bolt without a scrap yard or a volvo dealer? Yeah, they use a coarser thread than everyone else, which pisses me off. I want to do a lug conversion on my C70 and nobody makes a 12mm x 1.75 pitch lug stud. Anyone else that uses 12mm uses 1.5 pitch. I'm going to have to buy a handful of grade 8 fully threaded bolts and saw the heads off in order to do it.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:22
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Got my Volvo dyno'd yesterday if anyone is interested in the results. Totally stock '91 940 Turbo with the Mitsubishi turbo. 140k miles. 116 hp @ 4700rpm 143 ft-lb @ 3900rpm  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:34
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Anyone able to confirm my diagnoses/next step plan of action? I've got a 2002 Volvo S60t I'm hitting with wrenches right now, belongs to a friend. The radiator fan runs continuously, even after the car is shut down, even two days after the car is shut down. Right now she's disconnecting the power to the fan when she shuts down the car, and reconnecting for driving time. We replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is located in the thermostat housing, but this didn't change a thing, the fan still runs all the time. I disconnected the purple wire connector on the fan housing and nothing changes. I believe this is the wire that signals the fan control unit to change speeds from fast to slow. The fan still spins. This leads me to believe the fan control unit, which is located as component of the fan housing, has failed. The fix is to replace the entire fan housing. I am correct on everything here?
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Aug 6, 2010 00:10
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Sir Tonk posted:Got my Volvo dyno'd yesterday if anyone is interested in the results. Sounds like it's time to throw some money at your brick! Mine dyno'd 156whp and 211tq with just a cheapass MBC and a 2.5" exhaust, would've been even better if it didn't hit fuel cut. Total investment: $150. The first 50 HP is really cheap, it gets real expensive after that, which is what I'm struggling with.
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Aug 6, 2010 02:16
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Jack_Handey posted:Sounds like it's time to throw some money at your brick! Mine dyno'd 156whp and 211tq with just a cheapass MBC and a 2.5" exhaust, would've been even better if it didn't hit fuel cut. Total investment: $150. Get a 20psi vacuum pump and run it through the line for your overpressure solenoid until your fuel cuts off at idle. That's your max boost before your fuel cuts out. Then take a screwdriver and adjust the screw inward/outward until this increases to about 16 or 17 psi. Then take a cheapass boost controller and crank it up to like 13-14 psi. Profit! That's what I'm doing today anyway. I'm only running 5psi with an IPD turbo cam and the car has many more balls than before (b21ft with a 12b though). Gonna have some fun with that before my engine is pulled next week.  After that (and a good leakdown test) it's a matter of getting a better MAF, bigger injectors, wideband o2 sensor, chippable ECU's + chips, and a 3" exhaust. Also, anybody know of a great exhaust shop in the SoCal area that is capable of making a custom 3" exhaust for a 240 that doesn't scrape? I was thinking something like this: 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 20:42
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I need a windshield wiper motor for a Volvo 850, anybody have a spare or an 850 they're parting out? My local LKQ only has a 740 and 760 and it didn't look like either would work. edit: nevermind, found someone with one on Volvospeed. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 21:52
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I adjusted the reverse detente plate and now the car shifts like butter. I also started to tackle the tail lights which have not worked properly since I have owned the car. I started to undertake the hard wiring procedure and realized it was going to take me a lot longer than first anticipated so i ended up just cleaning up all the contacts on the printed board and also cleaned up corrosion from the plug that connects to the circuit board. It worked! For now at least. Contributing to the problem was the 2 inches of water that had collected in the lens cover. Instead of figuring out were the water was getting in, I just drilled some drain holes into the cover. Question: Do 850 rims fit on a 240?
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Aug 9, 2010 03:12
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ch1mp posted:Question: Do 850 rims fit on a 240? The bolt pattern is right but the offset is wrong. You'll need 20mm-25mm spacers to get them to not rub on the struts/inner fender. However, once you have the spacers, a whole world of wheel options open up that you never had before.
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Aug 9, 2010 14:29
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The other day I was driving my 87 240 DL around and all the sudden it was having problems shifting. Starting at 25 the engine reved really high until 40 when the transmission shifted roughly. Popped the hood and saw that my kick down cable had come out of it's slot. Went to put the cable back in and noticed that it was bent and that there was a TON of slack. Thinking maybe it came loose from the transmission?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Aug 9, 2010 19:39
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The slack is because it's supposed to go (in the picture) up to the left and around, rather than sit where it is. The twist is for the same reason. It will be reversed around the assembly with relation to the gas pedal cable because when you step on the gas, you pull the pedal cable, it turns the throttle assembly, and the assembly pulls the kickdown cable. Twist the throttle all the way open and it will be easy to put the cable back into place. e: unless by "a ton" you mean way more than it would need to go round the assembly, in which case, yeah, it's done in at the transmission. Pan has to come off to get to it AFAIK. 
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 03:32
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On my way out of my driveway my car dumped a whole bunch of what looked and tasted like water onto the ground. It looked liked it came from a hose that runs from the radiator (I think) to the BRE unit? When I finally got home from work like half an hour ago I rolled it over and it wasn't leaking that I could see, plus there was one puddle on the car afterwards. Anyone know what this issue is?
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Aug 10, 2010 04:14
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sbaldrick posted:On my way out of my driveway my car dumped a whole bunch of what looked and tasted like water onto the ground. It looked liked it came from a hose that runs from the radiator (I think) to the BRE unit? When I finally got home from work like half an hour ago I rolled it over and it wasn't leaking that I could see, plus there was one puddle on the car afterwards. Humid day with the AC on?
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Aug 10, 2010 05:23
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Pretty humid, but I don't think the car had moved in about a day...either way I wanted to ask before I start ripping things.
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Aug 10, 2010 05:48
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A puddle on the car? Let's see a photo.
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Aug 10, 2010 16:21
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Splizwarf posted:e: unless by "a ton" you mean way more than it would need to go round the assembly, in which case, yeah, it's done in at the transmission. Pan has to come off to get to it AFAIK. He has it routed right on the spool, it's supposed to come straight out of the cable housing like it does. Notice the little crimp sleeve on the cable? That is supposed to be flush with the orange cap when the throttle is closed, which means it definitely came apart in the transmission end of the cable (unfortunately). mysteryberto, have a Volvo shop take a look at it. Or tug/push on it and see if it snaps back into place, it might just be sticky?
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Aug 10, 2010 16:54
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I found my problem, looks like a small crack in this hose. Off to the junk yard Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Aug 10, 2010 17:36
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sbaldrick posted:I found my problem, looks like a small crack in this hose. Off to the junk yard I think that's just a ventilation hose for the ECU (which is in the box it connects to). There shouldn't be any liquid in that hose.
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Aug 10, 2010 18:13
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