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::edit:: Neeeeevermind. Good ole Wikipedia answered the question. I was basically looking for this: P.S. Honestly, it doesn't make any sense to me to refer to wood as the size it used to be, rather than what it actually is. P.P.S. Where do you people buy your hardwood? JoeWindetc fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 21:31
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JoeWindetc posted:P.P.S. Where do you people buy your hardwood? I'm having trouble finding interesting exotic wood near me (Los Angeles) so I've recently started using http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ I haven't ordered much, but so far they have been great.
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Aug 6, 2010 22:28
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Anyone familiar with lasercutting wood? I'm pretty sure someone here mentioned they have a machine for it. I was thinking about it the other day because one of the guys at my job was into these vintage guitar amps and was working on replicating a Trainwreck amp for himself. He brought in a wooden plaque with the Trainwreck logo carved into it. He was looking for another source for them because the guy who always supplied them to the amp builders had quit making them. I wish I had taken a picture of it because it was really cool. There's no way it was CNC routed because the corners were too sharp (you can see the Trainwreck logo here: http://www.trainwreck.com/ ). The edges didn't look particularly blackened or burnt like I'd expect from a laser, plus they didn't completely remove the negative space around the logo and that didn't look burnt either. So I'm curious - if not a CNC laser, how else would you carve something like that? The DIY CNC mill project threads had me thinking about making something like that for woodcarving and I've seen guys retro them with lasers instead of the router so it definitely got me thinking about making one.
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Aug 7, 2010 16:06
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My luthier professor had somebody with one do a test cut for him, and she did an entire aztec calender in about a 2" diameter. They're pretty sweet; he was trying to convince the art department to buy one.
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Aug 7, 2010 19:07
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LordOfThePants posted:Anyone familiar with lasercutting wood? For a living? Yes. [plug] http://www.oslopress.com [/plug] A laser usually will leave a bit of a burn, but depending on settings you can minimize it to just slight discoloration. Another possibility is that is was made with a rotary engraver as they commonly use really small bits that can get into corners.
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Aug 7, 2010 20:13
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GEMorris posted:For a living? Yes. Can you engrave with a laser? I sort of assumed it'd be either "cut" or "burn" only
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Aug 7, 2010 22:32
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unprofessional posted:My luthier professor had somebody with one do a test cut for him, and she did an entire aztec calender in about a 2" diameter. They're pretty sweet; he was trying to convince the art department to buy one. Could you tell me a bit more about your luthier professor? I'm finishing up my first classical guitar soon and i'll be looking for help with the next one I'll start. Assuming you do guitars, as opposed to violins. Actually whatever you build, i would love some details and insight into your experience.
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Aug 7, 2010 23:44
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LordOfThePants posted:Can you engrave with a laser? I sort of assumed it'd be either "cut" or "burn" only "Burn" is engraving with a laser. Depending on a lot of variables the burn can leave soot behind and look like a burn, or it can just vaporize the material and look like an engraving. Our invites look more like a burn because we engrave through the top veneer and into the core which is a species that tends to char. We are fine with this because it increases contrast. On the other hand when we do solid wood plaques like Ketuhbahs and such, the result looks more engraved on most species. Cherry tends to char no matter what you do. If you use a laser to engrave Acrylic or certain other plastics then the result will definitely look like engraving or etching.
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Aug 8, 2010 03:34
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Cobalt60 posted:Could you tell me a bit more about your luthier professor? I'm finishing up my first classical guitar soon and i'll be looking for help with the next one I'll start. Assuming you do guitars, as opposed to violins. My class was based around the construction of one acoustic guitar per student, so my knowledge and insight into the topic is probably not nearly as deep as some people's here, but I can say that it was a pretty awesome learning experience. Went into the class without any woodworking experience, and came out with a nice instrument. The prof made a guitar for himself, with us, using the same kit (Stewart-McDonald Dreadnought), and at the end he said he liked it more than his Martin. I imagine he would be happy to advise you on anything if you shot him an email - he's very much a down-to-earth workman, rather than an artsy type. I was lucky enough to take metalsmithing with him, as well. e: hey, there's me in the first picture with him! 
unprofessional fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 13:19
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Check out this cherry bowl I made, motherfuckers. Also the Delta 46-460 is awesome. If you have the means, I highly recommend it. 
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Aug 9, 2010 19:05
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I've checked out some of the links in the OP and couldn't easily find beginner tutorials- so what's a good newbie project that won't have me making something entirely useless?
change my name to fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 06:24
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Terrorist Kerchief posted:I've checked out some of the links in the OP and couldn't easily find beginner tutorials- so what's a good newbie project that won't have me making something entirely useless? I like http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com for project ideas. He does a good job of showing how to cover up and avoid mistakes along with this dedicated tool shows being second only to Norm IMHO.
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Aug 10, 2010 14:18
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I am redoing the handrail in my ancient rowhome, and wanted to ask a question about bending wood. I'm using this: http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...catalogId=10053 for an idea on specs. (for anyone who doesn't feel like clicking, it's an oval pine handrail, 2.25" wide x 1.25" thick.) My stairways are set up with sections where there is a level run about 6' long, and then 2 steps down to a landing. Rather than break up those 2 sections with an additional post (and interrupt the handrail), I was wondering if it would be possible to bend the handrail to make the curve there, and how difficult it would be if it were possible. My handrails currently run straight into the posts where they terminate, and I would still have a post at the "curved" part, but the handrail would sit atop it in a saddle rather then being terminated and restarted for the 2 stairs. Am I insane to contemplate this, or could it feasibly be accomplished?
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Aug 10, 2010 15:50
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I'm looking to make this: http://aubreyandlindsay.blogspot.com/2009_08_01_archive.html Only try to save some money by not going Ikea for the pedestals. Is this something I can do with only a power drill, or am I poo poo outta luck?
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Aug 10, 2010 20:00
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:I'm looking to make this: I would spend a little extra and get a long section of Beech LAGAN countertop while you are at IKEA and slap the thing together in an hour. I think the top of the desk that you linked to looks like poo poo and wont age well at all. Think of all the dirt that is going to accumulate in those grooves between the boards. Add up the cost of the wood, plus the stain, plus a finish, and then compare that to a 96" x 25" section of LAGAN for $59. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10146525 I love the Beech LAGAN (It used to be called PRONOMEN) and use it and the BRODER storage system all around my pressroom, office, and garage. If you only have a drill you are pretty much limited to making holes and attaching two things together, so your best bet is probably going to be buying some sort of pedestal at IKEA to support the countertop. Those BESTA cabinets they listed are only $60 in the us (they link to the CA site), so for 3 of those and the LAGAN countertop you are talking $240 for no machining to do and a solid wood work surface with storage underneath. Also check the As-Is section at IKEA as you might find some cabinets/pedestals there. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 06:21
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The BESTAs would be flush with that countertop, which would be nice, although I'd have to buy some feet for them to raise them an inch or two: it looks like the desktop would be 26 inches and change high, and I'm looking for something more like 28. That shouldn't be insurmountable. edit: Looks like someone's done what I'm talking about with the LAGAN:  edit2: So $240 and some stain and varnish should do the trick, no? WhiskeyJuvenile fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 13:52
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:edit2: So $240 and some stain and varnish should do the trick, no? It should, but the LAGAN comes with an oil finish on it, which you would just need to freshen up once a year or so. If you use a stain or finish I would make sure to get something solvent based and not water based due to the factory applied oil finish. Personally I just think the LAGAN counters look great as-is, in natural Beech. I don't see the need to dump some muddy stain on them. To each their own I guess. I would recommend dye stain as has been mentioned several times in this thread, usually by Wormil, but I'm not sure if it would play nicely with the oil finish that the LAGAN counters already come with. Anyone with experience know if this would work?
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Aug 11, 2010 15:23
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GEMorris posted:I think the top of the desk that you linked to looks like poo poo and wont age well at all. Thanks, I didn't want to be the first one to say it. Judging from that picture where the board is sitting outside on the chair, it looks like HD planes their boards down with a chainsaw. I was thinking, "If that board was mine, what could I do with it?" and the best idea I could come up with was to make a shelf in the basement to store paint cans and lawn chemicals. Baruch Obamawitz posted:So $240 and some But that's just my opinion. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 05:17
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That second picture I posted is with the LAGAN over some IKEA kitchen cabinets. Crazy for a desk?
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Aug 12, 2010 17:07
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:That second picture I posted is with the LAGAN over some IKEA kitchen cabinets. Crazy for a desk? No, that works just fine. They had a longer space to fill than LAGAN comes in to fill, so they just butted two counters up to each other. If you had to use more than one section, you might want to try to have them stepped, it just looks better. That would require different height pedestals, but it is just something to think about. If you have a local source for 2-drawer filing cabinets for cheap, then you could make it for even less $. I have scored some nice cabinets from our state government surplus store that I then threw a big piece of Lagan on top of and made a great functional worktable/desk.
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Aug 12, 2010 18:01
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About to start experimenting on my first big complicated furniture project (a hanging desk with bent plywood supports) after doing some simple work like making a garden table and a gazebo. You see people using wooden plugs to cover up screws quite often but in bought furniture you also see metal plugs a lot. Any ideas on how that actually works or where to get things like that because it would really fit my idea well. Or is it really only taking a solid bar of metal and cutting of a little slice and jam it in there after routing out a nice inlay for it?
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Aug 13, 2010 07:48
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All right, I think I'm ready to take the plunge and try some woodworking. I've needed another bookshelf for a long time, but I don't really want to pay $600 for one when I can make one for way less. And since it seems that's a good project for a beginner, that's where I think I'll start. My problem is finding a good reference plan. I just want to make a basic 6' tall bookcase, maybe 36" wide. Nothing fancy. I looked on Woodwhisperer and didn't really see too much, and the stuff that came up on Google were so ridiculously different from each other it just confused me more. Anyway, I have the tools (well, some, but can borrow the rest), the time, and inclination to get started. Any suggestions for a simple plan?
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Aug 13, 2010 09:06
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Nostratic posted:All right, I think I'm ready to take the plunge and try some woodworking. First, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy the shelf ... trust me. Second, rather than learning how to build 'a bookshelf', study carcass construction and you can build anything. Check my post history in this thread for some book recommendations. But if you insist, here are some nice plans from Popular Mechanics. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/4268525 Wood Magazine occasionally has some nice bookshelf plans although occasionally they mix it up with some overly complicated stuff.
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Aug 13, 2010 11:25
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JoeWindetc posted:Went to Woodcraft today for the 1st time. since no one has really replied to this, I thought I would chime in. if you don't want the endgrain of the plywood showing, it would be easy enough to make the whole thing out of 8 pieces of ply (4 corner pieces, and then each side), and then veneer the end. the other way to do it would be to CNC it. you could create a series of shelves that nest inside each other to save material/money. there was a guy here from BC who used to make nexting plywood tables like this. you would just need to engineer a way to stack/glue the plywood cutouts so that you would minimize the amount of sanding you would need to do
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Aug 13, 2010 16:31
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wormil posted:First, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy the shelf ... trust me. Really? I figured even just the cost of the wood would be cheaper. I'm not planning on ruining any fancy wood with my first project. Unless you're talking about the added cost of buying more tools, which is probably unavoidable anyway! Thanks for the book and carcass construction references, I'll definitely read up.
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Aug 13, 2010 23:47
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Nostratic posted:Unless you're talking about the added cost of buying more tools, which is probably unavoidable anyway! Never count the cost of tools in a project, you will always use them for later projects. 
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Aug 14, 2010 01:20
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Anyone have a Grr-ripper? How do you like it? Peachtree has the Grr-ripper 200 Advance for around $45 on sale and I was thinking about picking one up since they've also got a ZCI that will fit my vintage Craftsman saw. That's also the cheapest I've ever seen in a while.
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Aug 14, 2010 02:27
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Thanks to this thread, you've all made me start up woodworking, and I have to say, definitly having a blast already with my craptastic limit of tools. I was lucky enough to have an uncle that no longer used his triton workcentre with things attached  Trying to make a little box to begin with!    Oh god i need a workbench D: I'm only using plywood since I'm a totally new to all of this, and i figure if i do something bad its not a big cost or pain, case in point  I spent too much time lurking about safety for this very reason. schmen fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 08:51
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Nostratic posted:Really? I figured even just the cost of the wood would be cheaper. I'm not planning on ruining any fancy wood with my first project. Unless you're talking about the added cost of buying more tools, which is probably unavoidable anyway! Well, woodworking, like fishing, tends to be more expensive than just buying the end product but it's also much more satisfying.
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Aug 14, 2010 09:09
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schmen posted:
Not sure what happened in that last picture, but for cutting plywood, you would probably have a lot better luck using an 80 tooth plywood blade or even a combination blade.
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Aug 14, 2010 10:13
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SkunkDuster posted:Not sure what happened in that last picture, but for cutting plywood, you would probably have a lot better luck using an 80 tooth plywood blade or even a combination blade. Actually thats something i did consider, but im not too sure how to replace the blade on the saw is all. Ill go get one the next time im at the store though! As for the last pic, pretty much was try a rip cut with the blade facing down (which you can do with the triton) but the wood wasnt clamped hard enough. Cue some slipping before i quickly shut off the blade
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Aug 14, 2010 12:33
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LordOfThePants posted:Anyone have a Grr-ripper? How do you like it? Peachtree has the Grr-ripper 200 Advance for around $45 on sale and I was thinking about picking one up since they've also got a ZCI that will fit my vintage Craftsman saw. That's also the cheapest I've ever seen in a while. Yep, I have two so I can do an infinite feed loop. One of the best accessory type things I've bought.
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Aug 14, 2010 14:54
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schmen posted:Not super-familiar with that particular tool, so I don't know if it's adjustable, but that blade's really high for that cut. For safety, it should really only be just higher than the piece of wood itself.
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Aug 14, 2010 15:17
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I always keep part of the teeth in the wood. You get smoother cuts too.
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Aug 14, 2010 16:00
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VitaminZinc posted:Not super-familiar with that particular tool, so I don't know if it's adjustable, but that blade's really high for that cut. For safety, it should really only be just higher than the piece of wood itself. This was the first thing I thought of too. Try and keep the blade about 1/16th above the piece you are cutting.
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Aug 14, 2010 20:02
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schmen posted:Hey look, kickback! So from those marks, I take it the board actually came shooting back at you? In any event, please remember to stand to the side so you don't get hurt. Here is a nice video telling you exactly what happened and how to prevent it in the future. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY Edit: Looking at your saw, I'm guessing that you didn't have your fence set up to be 90* to your blade and so it pinched and came up over top of the blade. Eeesh, that's an "interesting" fence you got there, anytime you move it your going to have to be super careful about how it's positioned. Anubis fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 01:19
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Anubis posted:Eeesh, that's an "interesting" fence you got there, anytime you move it your going to have to be super careful about how it's positioned.
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Aug 15, 2010 02:06
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If that thing is what it looks like it is then changing the blade should be dead simple: just remove the circular saw that's clamped to the bottom of it and then look up the specific instructions for that online. Afterwards, leave the saw unattached and simply clamp your workpieces to the table and saw them that way, it seems like it would be much, much safer. e:^^^ For use with a router that's not so bad, the thing is spinning along the same plane as the workpiece so fence alignment doesn't matter so much.
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Aug 15, 2010 02:16
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Thanks for the replys everyone, definitly doing everything you recommend next time I pull out the saw And yeah, i think I'm gonna have to be extra careful with that fence. I'm beginning to see why my uncle stopped woodworking with something like this..
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Aug 15, 2010 02:28
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_ex_n_0?rh=i:aps,k:milwaukee+router+bit&keywords=milwaukee+router+bit&ie=UTF8&qid=1281888219 Router bits on sale cheap.
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Aug 15, 2010 23:04
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