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Captain Crabsticks posted:i'd make a project thread (and yes, the legacy wagon eg33 swap will get a project thread but i'm waiting for some parts still) but you guys don't seem to like hondas. i love hondas and am in love with the b-series vtec motors, but i just hate honda people I'd be interested in a project thread on a Honda. I've never met any Honda people but I wouldn't be surprised at a high level of dickheadery. I drive a Honda, there are a couple of us around. Seconding the conditional: good Honda thread not lovely Honda thread.
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Aug 7, 2010 00:35
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I wish i'd known you guys liked the car, but its pretty much too late for a project thread, the car is pretty much done and i didnt really document or picture anything. i have two project threads i WILL post though, my flat-6 91 legacy wagon swap, and a similarly built h22/turbo is going into my 89 si, or maybe this car. anyway, here's some basic documentation of the project to make up for lack of thread -bought car for 500$ as a fully stripped shell -bought and installed (almost) complete integra interior, which wasn't even very hard, the dash just required some light cutting and heatgunning and fits absolutely perfectly, not a squeak or a rattle anywhere no matter whare i bang or push and the seats basically bolted in -bought integra hubs/wheels and all the suspension parts, everything bolted on perfectly -bought a hosed up 2000 gsr block and a good SIR-II head, had literally every single thing i could think of done to both. not even that expensive. -engine went together perfectly with no problems and dropped in the car easily, as the shell used to have a b16 in it. i had to slightly notch my radiator for the turbo after the engine was in, but nothing crazy -wiring & ecu & boost control was way easier than i was comfortable with, so i had someone check it, and it was correct -ran it untuned for a month or 2 at low boost & rich as hell, to work out bugs before the tune. car was decently fast but would overheat after a couple hard runs. mishimoto rad & new manifold to relocate the turbo fixed this -had car tuned, runs great, doesnt overheat, and my afr's are safe & consistent this is why i like hondas- a fully built turbo engine built and installed with really less problems than a head gasket job could give you, without any friend's help using INTERNET KNOWLEDGE & what i already knew. so now i have the fastest honda in the *~scene~* here, and i can probably add 100hp to that with more boost & another tune and all for under 8k including car
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Aug 7, 2010 02:50
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Captain Crabsticks posted:385whp conservatively tuned & boosted How does it go when you're giving it a bootful? Torque steer a lot? I'm always curious what these 250-300+whp FWD cars are like to drive. (I'm not giving you poo poo about it, genuinely interested.)
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Aug 7, 2010 03:17
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ExecuDork posted:I'd be interested in a project thread on a Honda. I've never met any Honda people but I wouldn't be surprised at a high level of dickheadery. I drive a Honda, there are a couple of us around. We could start an 80s Honda thread just with our two cars. :P
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Aug 7, 2010 04:25
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > My Honda can vote, drink, and enlist: the adult car club Sounds good. Start the thread and I'll have the excuse I need to take glamour shots of my aging, rusted, dirty car that I love so much.
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Aug 7, 2010 05:50
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Just finished 4 hours worth of claybar and waxing in preparation for tomorrow morning's Cars & Coffee, where I will probably only spend 2 hours in the show. It needed it though.
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Aug 7, 2010 07:27
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2ndclasscitizen posted:How does it go when you're giving it a bootful? Torque steer a lot? I'm always curious what these 250-300+whp FWD cars are like to drive. (I'm not giving you poo poo about it, genuinely interested.) yeah, on boost in 1-3rd gear between 4-9k rpm (ever rev a car to 9k? it feels wrong to do to a car), if you actually find grip, it torque steers teribly even with the lsd. i kind of like it though, its like taming a wild animal, a kinda bucking bronco for the 2000's or something. first time i really got into it in 2nd it almost took me a lane over till i got a good grip on the wheel. and about that grip.... not enough for this much power in a car that weighs so little. i don't think theres really any way around this but i wouldnt have it any other way
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Aug 7, 2010 07:56
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Captain Crabsticks posted:yeah, on boost in 1-3rd gear between 4-9k rpm (ever rev a car to 9k? it feels wrong to do to a car), if you actually find grip, it torque steers teribly even with the lsd. i kind of like it though, its like taming a wild animal, a kinda bucking bronco for the 2000's or something. first time i really got into it in 2nd it almost took me a lane over till i got a good grip on the wheel. and about that grip.... not enough for this much power in a car that weighs so little. i don't think theres really any way around this but i wouldnt have it any other way Does fitting wider rubber help? Though I wouldn't imagine you'd be able to go that wide on the Integra wheels.
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Aug 7, 2010 08:47
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Does fitting wider rubber help? Though I wouldn't imagine you'd be able to go that wide on the Integra wheels. Yeah, there's only so much rubber you can fit under the fenders without flaring them. My friend Bill with the 635whp Prelude runs 10.5" slicks at the track, but they stick WAY out. He spins tires until 3rd gear, and even though it's street legal and inspected, he doesn't drive it on the street often because he runs regular rubber. He can't push it hard on the street. I would imagine a 385whp Civic would be in a similar position. Edit: I finally cleaned the inside of the Bronco's rear windows to get the dog nose-prints off. Also I fiddled with the tailgate window motor and determined it to be dead or have hosed wiring. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Aug 7, 2010 |
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Aug 7, 2010 13:49
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And people wonder why I only aim for 220-250hp for the 323 project. I'd like traction SOMETIME today.
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Aug 7, 2010 14:04
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Took the Lightforce 240 blitz off and fitted the 240 XGT's with HID kits onto the cruiser today. And washed it.
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Aug 7, 2010 14:36
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I put on my new plates yesterday:
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Aug 7, 2010 18:41
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Well at least you're honest about it.
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Aug 8, 2010 00:49
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ExecuDork posted:EDIT 2: Apparently, success! A bit of trouble getting the drat thing out from under the dashboard, but my rudimentary soldering skills were sufficient to melt a bit of solder and heal the circular crack around one of the points. This picture is from before; after looks much the same, but with a bit more metal in a few places. The car started up without any trouble after I plugged everything back in. I did the same thing to my main relay on a '94 Accord after half a year of my car not starting whenever it was wet or too hot. Mine had four pins that had the circular cracks in the old solder. Took me a whole three minutes to mend once the iron was warmed up, and I got to feel smug about not falling for the rear end in a top hat at the shop telling me I needed a new starter. The sucker starts up every time without fail now; I try not to kick myself for not figuring the problem out sooner. Today, I ground a lot of rust off my calipers . . . and then I stared at the holes rusted through the rear quarter panel, shook my head sadly, and went inside to drink.
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Aug 8, 2010 02:26
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/\/\/\ I like feeling smug while simultaneously kicking myself for the exact same reasons. Also, speaking of rusty rear quarters, I can see the wheel and pavement around the gas filler cap. The floor of that little space is just completely gone.Imperador do Brasil posted:My friend Bill with the 635whp Prelude Anyways, today was a pretty disappointing day. I had high ambitions, but rather than repeat myself I'll save the confusing and troublesome aspects for the stupid questions thread. First, I Seafoamed it. My video camera decided to sulk and not work, but I managed to take a couple of stills using the timer.  Behold! That lame little smudge of smoke on the bottom left is all that happened, revving to 5K. It smelled like burnt crap from an engine, but was overall unimpressive. I changed the oil, which was quite the undertaking. My bone-stock ground clearance is low enough I worry about scraping something if I drive over something the size of a local phonebook. In order to fit my clumsy self under there, I had to lift all four corners onto jackstands raised to about 3/4 of their maximum height. I don't have a floor jack, just a pair of little bottle jacks, and I picked up some bricks today to help. Lifting the car took about 30 minutes, swapping constantly between the two jacks and the stands at each corner. Once up, it actually rested only on 3 of the 4 stands, but was quite stable. At this dizzying height, I could just barely sqeeze under it. Then I managed to splash hot oil on myself a couple of times (protip: don't drop the filter into the full oil pan), and getting the new filter on was a pain - there's no way to get two hands in there, and no clear sight lines to see if the filter is lined up with the threaded pipe. Ugh. But, I did succeed in the end. And I took samples of oil to send to Blackstone for analysis before and after I Seafoamed it. I want to know what Seafoam actually does, and I'm spending money to find out the answer.   I had wanted to replace the brake fluid and the rear sway-bar end links, but reality conspired against me. On the upside, my fumbling somehow reset my on-dash warning light for the parking brake, which had been permanently on for the last little while. I guess there's no rush to replace those cables.
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Aug 8, 2010 02:48
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ExecuDork posted:Holy poo poo! Given the current state and mileage of my Prelude, I believe your friend Bill is putting out 8 to 10 times the horses of mine. How does one acheive such insanity from a 2-litre engine? Is it just the shell, with some monstrous other thing under the hood? It's a 2.2 actually, the H22A. It's actually a fully-functional car, with no weight reduction done to it except the removal of the air conditioning, because it wouldn't clear the turbo downpipe. It sports a full interior with carpet, door panels, power windows, etc. Here's pics just for fun, even though I've shown them here in AI before: Exterior  In case you couldn't see the turbo from far away 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 15:20
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I bought it and gave it a quick bath.  2005 Pontiac GTO Gonna give it a full detail early this week
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Aug 8, 2010 22:04
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I buffed it.
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Aug 9, 2010 01:05
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Finished destroying it. Click here for the full 1136x852 image.
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Aug 9, 2010 04:10
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Rhyno posted:Finished destroying it. Looks like a successful weekend?
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Aug 9, 2010 04:44
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rotarybob posted:Looks like a successful weekend? And I only hurt myself twice!
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Aug 9, 2010 04:51
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Finally changed the brake discs on my other car, a tired old Hyundai stationwagon which I keep around for... well I don't know why exactly... maybe for the loading space in case I need it, and of course to sharpen my tinkering skills without breaking anything on my sweet sweet Alfa. Anyway, I had ordered the brake discs off the web for just over €100 for the pair, expecting the swap to take one afternoon. Subsequently, upon removing the front wheels I found that the only way to change them was to completely disassemble the front suspension to remove the knuckles, and pressing both the hubs out of the main wheel bearing in a hydraulic press because the geniuses in South Korea thought it would be a good idea to fit the motherloving brake discs on the inside on the hub. In retrospect it was a good exercise, as I had never done this before. But it did take me a while to finally realise no combination of hammers, pullers and pliers would be enough to break free those discs. Mercifully, taking the hubs to a do-it-yourself machine shop and pressing the hub out and back in without damaging the bearing proved to be a doddle, and both bearings were fine after I pressed the hubs back in. I'm a bit worried though, about the calipers not opening far enough and the (also relatively new) pads dragging on the new discs. It took a lot of effort to get them to open far enough to put them on, and on the test drive after putting everything back on the car and testing the brakes a few times on a quiet backroad they where literally smoking. Can I expect this dragging to completely go away after a while or is there something else I need to look at? For the moment it is acceptable and they are not dragging too badly.. the smoke was probably the oily residue on the discs I hadn't bothered to clean off. But still... it would be nice for the brakes to release properly, like they do on my Alfa. (I suspect changing the brake fluid might be a good idea) Tsuru fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 19:55
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Ordered her some EBC Green Stuff front pads and a K&N air filter off Amazon. Sent some dude money off the DSMTuners forum for a power driver's side mirror and windshield spray nozzle. Just need to track down the clips that hold the air filter into place, order calipers (next paycheck), order a power steering pump (paycheck after next) and then put it all together.
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Aug 9, 2010 20:25
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Rhyno posted:Finished destroying it. Bitchin' Escort GT.
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Aug 9, 2010 22:03
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Sockington posted:Bitchin' Escort GT. Which one? 
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Aug 9, 2010 22:41
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Took a half-day. Did a relatively-thorough wax and detail on two of the three (note this is relative as in relative to how close you're standing to the car.) I need to stop being a cheap rear end and get an orbital and start wet sanding. My hands are like loving robster craws now. Edit: Not pulling them out of the garage until the 'really weak sauce but looks nice' tire gel dries up. No pics; you've probably seen 'em at least 40 times already, anyhow. ssh fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 22:44
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I installed LED licence plate lights. They look sweet and will likely burn out before winter. I dont mind as they were 20 bucks for five pairs...
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Aug 10, 2010 03:31
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ExecuDork posted:Another toon-goon here? Partsource has been treating me fairly decently so far, hence I went a bit out of my way to the north side of town. Kinda late but yeah, Partsource is pretty cool - their loan-a-tool program is great. Finally got the door molding I was missing, and showed the Jetta. It gets kinda awkward when someone comes up asking if the car is for sale when you're still talking to the person who just took it for a drive...
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Aug 10, 2010 05:16
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RoboFrance29 posted:I installed LED licence plate lights. They look sweet and will likely burn out before winter. I dont mind as they were 20 bucks for five pairs... LEDs don't burn out, unless they're being overdriven. 100,000 hours rated lifetime is the norm.
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Aug 10, 2010 12:11
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Sponge! posted:LEDs don't burn out, unless they're being overdriven. RoboFrance29 posted:they were 20 bucks for five pairs... There ya go.
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Aug 10, 2010 15:56
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Discovered that VW wire the two 12V connectors for the radio the wrong way around, then when I was poking about with my voltmeter I hit something and now I have 0V on the battery wire.  Tomorrow/tonight trip to the shop to buy some wire, connectors and a crimping tool. Forgive the dumb question but I wanna make sure, am I cool to run a wire straight from the +ve terminal on the battery into the 'memory' pin connector on my radio? Radio has its own fuse. vv Nah, all the fuses are fine, I checked and checked and checked again, and swapped some fuses around. Everything else connected to that fuse works perfectly. jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 18:10
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jammyozzy posted:Discovered that VW wire the two 12V connectors for the radio the wrong way around, then when I was poking about with my voltmeter I hit something and now I have 0V on the battery wire. You probably blew a fuse. Look in the driver's kick panel for a bunch of fuses and find the blown one.
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Aug 10, 2010 18:27
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Tightened up the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold collector. Sounds so much better! One of the nuts/studs is stripped, but after tightening the other two the exhaust leak is almost entirely gone! Sounds way different and better. Not all clacky. Also, adjusted the driver's door latch so it actually closes properly now. Took like ten minutes, why didn't I do this stuff sooner 
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Aug 11, 2010 05:27
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Under previous ownership, my Wrangler met a tree and was left with a bad impression. You can see the bend in the floorpan, but there's also a healthy crease right where the floor meets the rocker.  2x3" channel iron inside, 2" box tubing outside, and 4 bridge clamps.  Apply torque.  Door opening is now reasonably straight.  The floor and lower rocker are still wrinkled. To be continued...
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Aug 11, 2010 20:47
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Finished my new door cards, its pretty  I admit.
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Aug 11, 2010 23:32
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Re-installed my radio (again), easily the biggest hack-job I've ever done to a car. I pulled out the fusebox, took one look at it and thought 'gently caress that', so I pulled the wiring plug out of my useless cigarette lighter, crimped a blade onto the radio's wire and poked it into the plug. I feel like a tool, but at least it works. *Edit* I'm sure this will make BabyHitler want to murder me in cold blood. jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 23:49
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Bucephalus posted:2x3" channel iron inside, 2" box tubing outside, and 4 bridge clamps.
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Aug 12, 2010 02:18
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With all that rust metal fatigue would be the least of your worries.
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Aug 12, 2010 02:20
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Replaced the $3 light bulb that lights up the PRND2L next to the shifter on my '97 Toyota Corolla (Automatic). Its been burned out for 4 years. Took me 4 flat headed screw drivers to remove a bunch of plastic trim and about an hour and a half to re-seat the light socket after accidentally unseating it with the needle nose pliers. But hey, I got it done without removing all the trim around the dash and instrument cluster like the haynes manual said to do. That would have taken 5 hours and a couple of torx screw drivers which i currently don't have.
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Aug 12, 2010 02:48
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Raluek posted:Tightened up the nuts on the driver's side exhaust manifold collector. Sounds so much better! One of the nuts/studs is stripped, but after tightening the other two the exhaust leak is almost entirely gone! Sounds way different and better. Not all clacky. Also, adjusted the driver's door latch so it actually closes properly now. Took like ten minutes, why didn't I do this stuff sooner Looks like fixing the little things was a bad idea. That caused the thermostat housing to start weeping, and attempted repair just made it worse. The "fix" for now is to remove the t-stat, leave the radiator cap partway off so it won't build pressure, and cramming some soft gooey rubber-like stuff into the channel where the damaged O-ring was. Got me home! Didn't leak one bit! Might fix it properly tomorrow, might not....
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Aug 12, 2010 06:21
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