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Okay, I have a couple of questions and I hope this is the right place to ask. I've been reading around the resources here but I'm totally new to any kind of investing and I just want to make sure I've digested it correctly. I apologize if this gets long! Some relevant data: Age: 27 Status: Single, no kids or dependents. I rent. Debt: None (I pay my credit cards each month, I guess) Savings account: $40K Short term CD: $13K 401(k) contribution: 5% (company matches up to 5%). My company also has a defined benefit pension plan that I'd say is average quality. I save $750 / month of my take-home cash. I don't have anything in particular I'm saving for; I don't have any plans to buy a condo in the short term and if I sell my car or it dies I don't need to replace it. That being said I would guess I'd be buying a place at some point in the next decade. #1) What do I do with my saved money? I know that it's dumb to have that much money sitting in a savings account with no return but I'm really risk averse and thinking about investing makes me nervous. I don't know much about it on a stock-by-stock level. My tentative thoughts are to: - Keep my CD as my "emergency fund". - Keep another $3K or so in the savings account so I don't have to break the CD for something small. - Open a Roth IRA and max it out ($5K, I believe). - Take the rest of the savings and spread it between an S&P500 Index fund and a bond Index fund (25% bond / 75% stock?) - Divert $250 / month to the S&P Index automatically. - Continue to save the $500 / month until it reaches a point above emergency fund levels and then think about other investments. My thoughts are that once I get more comfortable, I might be able to take any additional savings and start selecting a few stocks at small $ amounts on my own and being a little more bold. Is this a good plan at all? Should I up my 401(k) contribution instead of diverting to the S&P? Are there better things for me to invest in? If I do this, is Vanguard my best bet? I really just want to make sure I'm on the right track. I thought about going to my parents' financial advisor but I'm not sure I have enough money to make it worth it and I'm kind of a cheapskate.  #2) I'd like to up my credit score if I can. Since I've never taken out a loan or been late on payments I think I'm pretty much limited to increasing my credit utilization. However I'm having a bear of a time getting either of my credit cards to raise my limit. The Discover is $3,750, the Visa (through my bank) is $5,000. Should I just stop worrying about it or should I look into getting another rewards card and put my Netflix on it just to have the credit exposure? Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help! I appreciate it. Sophia fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 01:07
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Car question: I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent worth (i.e. could sell) for ~$9000. The loan I have for it: ~9800 balance (I used equity when I refinanced to borrow $1500 extra to buy a motorcycle with). 3.99%, $240/mo - so about 4 years of payments left. I recently got a new government job that I can commute to easily by public transportation. I don't use the car barely ever now except for camping trips or going to the grocery store. It's nice having it, I can afford it easily, but I don't really... need it. My parents are interested in buying the car from me since it has low miles and is in good shape. I would pay down a little bit to be negotiated (to get the loan closer to sale value and compensate for the amount I borrowed over for the motorcycle) then they would just take over payments while leaving it in my name to keep the sweet sweet hyundai warranty. I trust them more than enough for all this. My question is: is it at all silly for me to sell when I've already put two years of payments into the car? 24 x $240 = $5760... it's been a nice trouble free car but goddamn that seems like a lot of money for just two years of driving. On the other hand, without the $240 payment and $500 or so for insurance every six months - that's $3880 a year that I can save and use to pay off student loans/max out a roth IRA etc. Should I just hold onto it and pay it off (could probably do it quicker than 4 years thanks to my sweet new paychecks) and have it as an asset? I suppose I will want a car again at some point in the future, and this does seem like a good candidate for a car to keep as long as possible and be beating on 20 years from now. Or should I cut my losses and get out? Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 04:32
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Car question: From a strictly financial position, owning a car that you don't need is stupid. It is a rapidly depreciating asset, they cost a lot to insure, there are more fees all the time to inspect and register them, and gas isn't getting any cheaper. It is a sunk cost, meaning the money you already spent is not coming back, and you should base your decision only on future costs, not what you have already put into it. All that said, its nice having a car and since you can afford it, you have to look at the future anticipated costs and how it affects your quality of life, and if you decide that you want to keep it so you can go get groceries without it being a big production and have a way to get out of the city without the hassle of renting one, or you have friends that you like to hang out with that its cumbersome getting there via public transit, then you should keep it, and keep it without guilt. However I'm wondering about the motorcycle. To me, it seems like a car is way more versatile than a motorcycle, and if you had to pull equity out to buy the motorcycle, then you couldn't afford it.
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Aug 9, 2010 04:55
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Zeta Taskforce posted:However I'm wondering about the motorcycle. To me, it seems like a car is way more versatile than a motorcycle, and if you had to pull equity out to buy the motorcycle, then you couldn't afford it. Oh the motorcycle is quite unnecessary and purely pleasure (though I suppose it would be gain a little usefulness without a car) but goddamn is it worth the money. I didn't have to take the equity but it was an easy way to get some money at a decent rate. I couldn't afford it cash, no, so it probably was one of the sketchier money decisions I've made, but I was pretty careful about it and it's worked out fine.
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Aug 9, 2010 13:09
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Sophia: 1. You're doing a good job already with savings. If you go into the Long term investing thread I'm sure there will be more advice for you, but you really need to figure out when you need the money by to have a decent idea of what to do with it. If you do want to buy a place in the next 5-10 years, putting it so heavily weighted into the stock market is pretty risky. I'm actually running into the same "problem" right now - after maxing out my Roth, where do I put the rest? Right now I have most of my savings in a Vanguard money market account from back when I was saving for a house but I am considering moving it into TIPS or municipal bonds or a mix of the two since I won't be needing it for a while. It's your choice, but putting your cash in 75% equities is very high risk if you might need to take it out in 5 years. I wouldn't do any trading in individual stocks, but that's because I don't have the time or inclination to do a lot of research. If that's your thing, go right ahead. 2. What is your current credit score? I wouldn't worry about it unless your score was low AND one of the reasons they give for the low score is available credit.
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Aug 9, 2010 15:48
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Sophia posted:Okay, I have a couple of questions and I hope this is the right place to ask. I've been reading around the resources here but I'm totally new to any kind of investing and I just want to make sure I've digested it correctly. I apologize if this gets long! Sounds like you are pretty well on track. As for what to do with your saved money ... I'd first make sure you know the withdrawal procedure for your CD if you are going to use it as an emergency fund. I'm honestly not all that familiar with them, and what it takes to actually get that money, but one of the keys of an emergency fund is that you can get to it quickly, so make sure that's possible. Though it sounds like you have a few thousand available if you need it right away, so that's good. Opening a Roth is a great idea, and better than contributing to your 401K past your match since you have more control over it. Since you are just beginning with investing a good idea would be to open up that Roth at Vanguard an invest it in one of the target retirement funds. For the rest of your savings, like moana said, a big question here is when you will need it. If you are, say, saving for a down payment that you will need in 5 years, you'll want to be careful how much of that is invested in, say, stocks which have a variable return over 5 years. 10 years is a safer number, though of course you occasionally have oddities like this past decade. It's tough though - a year or two ago it'd be a no brainer to keep that money in an online savings account earning 6.5% interest. For now I'd probably recommend SmartyPig, as they offer 2%, one of the best current interest rates I have found. For your credit scores, those limits seem pretty loan considering your income (the fact that you're saving $750/month makes me think you earn at least a decent income). If you only have two cards I would certainly recommend opening another card to increase your overall credit limit.
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Aug 9, 2010 16:07
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Moana and Strict 9, thanks for the replies. I'll take my question over to the long term investment thread once I figure out more precisely what my time horizons are. But you guys kind of confirmed what I thought, that there really aren't any great 3-7 year term investments out there outside of short-term bonds or T-bills or something. I will definitely open up the Roth IRA though. And my CD is really short term, it just earns slightly better than the savings account, and I can break it (with minor penalties) if I need to, so I think it could suffice for an emergency fund. As far as the credit score, when I last checked in June it was 780 so it's not really low, it just sort of irritates me that they won't increase my limits considering I've never missed a payment and do make a decent wage. I'll keep thinking about applying for another one. Thanks again!
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Aug 9, 2010 16:39
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Sophia posted:Moana and Strict 9, thanks for the replies. I'll take my question over to the long term investment thread once I figure out more precisely what my time horizons are. But you guys kind of confirmed what I thought, that there really aren't any great 3-7 year term investments out there outside of short-term bonds or T-bills or something. 780 is excellent. It is beyond excellent. A responsible lender will look at more than a credit score, but based on your savings, and your minimal debt, you will have no problem qualifying for anything reasonable. When your score is that high, its not necessary to do anything special to increase it, and nothing much you can really do anyway, other than allow the accounts to get older and as they do, it will slowly drift up into the low 800’s. Adding another account if anything will drop it some. Not much, but some. Not to say you should not open it if you need it, just continue to do what is financially responsible and don’t do stuff because how it might look on your credit.
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Aug 9, 2010 17:00
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Sophia posted:As far as the credit score, when I last checked in June it was 780 so it's not really low, it just sort of irritates me that they won't increase my limits considering I've never missed a payment and do make a decent wage. I'll keep thinking about applying for another one.
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Aug 9, 2010 18:35
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Okay, thanks guys. I don't know much about how loan rates work in terms of "tiers" of credit scores so that's really great to know. Looks like the only reason I'd get another credit card is if I decide I want mileage rewards.
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Aug 9, 2010 20:32
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Sophia posted:Okay, thanks guys. I don't know much about how loan rates work in terms of "tiers" of credit scores so that's really great to know. Looks like the only reason I'd get another credit card is if I decide I want mileage rewards. like Airline mileage? I have yet to be able to use my miles for anything other than magazine subscriptions over the past decade. Which is sad considering I have 100k miles with Delta. There is always some restriction or it doesn't work with my schedule or something. I would never put any effort into getting airline miles given my experience with them. At least I will have the Atlantic to read on the can for the rest of my life.
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Aug 10, 2010 17:35
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80k posted:like Airline mileage? I have yet to be able to use my miles for anything other than magazine subscriptions over the past decade. Which is sad considering I have 100k miles with Delta. There is always some restriction or it doesn't work with my schedule or something. I have a Delta Sky Miles Platinum card and personally, I'm happy with it and have never had a problem redeeming miles. They have both a "Book a Trip Using Miles" and a "Pay with Miles" where 10,000 miles = $100 off your flight. The Pay with Miles option never has any blackout dates, though it tends to be the bigger rip off than the "Book a Trip Using Miles" option. Still, it's better than using $100k in miles for magazines. I tend to make last minute weekend getaways vs. holiday travel and have never run into any blackout dates so depends what you're interested in. You just have to keep in mind the high annual rate though - $150/yr for the Platinum Card and $95/yr for the Gold Card. It is easily worth it if you travel a lot on Delta for your job and they let you use your personal cards to pay and then reimburse you but otherwise thats a pretty hefty yearly fee (though the waived first checked bag fee can make it worth it if you're not a light packer). KarmaCandy fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 18:12
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I just found (seriously) five $50 savings bonds (series EE) in my car, dated 12/1991. Using a calculator found at http://www.treasurydirect.gov/BC/SBCPrice, it looks like these are now worth $65.76 each. They don't reach full maturity until 12/2021 - can someone who knows more about this tell me how much they'll be worth then? It feels like Christmas over here.
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Aug 10, 2010 19:37
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Speaking of credit scores, I don't know mine. I have no idea what my credit history looks like. I want to know, but my husband throws a huge hissy fit whenever I bring it up. He says it will hurt our score to look. How is that even possible? I think it matters because I would like to know that there's nothing shady on it and what the number is because we're adults and it's time we start planning for the future (house, cars, travel, etc).
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Aug 10, 2010 19:51
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Um, isn't the calculator you just linked able to tell you that? Just put in the date of maturity instead of today's date. Or am I missing something?
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Aug 10, 2010 19:52
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Brennanite posted:Speaking of credit scores, I don't know mine. A hard credit inquiry (I think this is what a real FICO score report will require) usually depresses your score in the short-term, since they take points off for applying for a bunch of cards or loans or whatever, but it's not going to have any lasting impact on your credit. Unless you're buying a house in the next 3 months or something, it won't matter AT ALL.
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Aug 10, 2010 19:58
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moana posted:Um, isn't the calculator you just linked able to tell you that? Just put in the date of maturity instead of today's date. Or am I missing something? Ah, I'd say this is why; there's no way to know at this point: quote:Series EE bonds are issued at 50% of their face value and reach final maturity 30 years from issuance. Interest is added to the bond monthly and paid when the holder cashes the bond. They are designed to reach face value in approximately 17 years, although an investor can hold them for up to 30 years and continue to accrue interest. For bonds issued before May 2005 the rate of interest is recomputed every six months at 90% of the average five-year Treasury yield for the preceding six months.
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Aug 10, 2010 20:16
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moana posted:You can go to annualcreditreport.com and order your credit history from each of the three companies for free once per year. This will tell you what's on your history and if there's anything shady. For your FICO score (the credit score most people talk about) you'll have to pay extra, or you can use one of the free estimators out there like quizzle. I don't believe checking your own score counts as a hard inquiry. I do so monthly through Citi for a monthly fee of about $12. None of my inquiries have ever shown up on my report. I think hard inquiries are limited to those who are checking for the sake of providing credit. e: confirmed http://www.myfico.com/crediteducation/questions/inquiry-credit-score.aspx
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Aug 10, 2010 20:24
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Cool, well in that case there is no reason at all for the husband to be worried.
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Aug 10, 2010 20:26
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Dragyn posted:I don't believe checking your own score counts as a hard inquiry. I do so monthly through Citi for a monthly fee of about $12. None of my inquiries have ever shown up on my report. Is it worth the cash? I've thought about doing that, but I dont' like the idea of throwing away $12 every month on that service. :/
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Aug 10, 2010 21:39
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Never mind... going to make a thread instead.
Chessna fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 21:46
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Dead Pressed posted:Is it worth the cash? I've thought about doing that, but I dont' like the idea of throwing away $12 every month on that service. :/ I got a service like that through my credit card after my wallet was stolen so that I could monitor my report in case of identity theft. They also send me a notice every time any inquiry is made into my credit, though, which is a bit more than just a score every month. Anyway, for me it's been worth it so I didn't have to be proactive about checking it or worry about it between checks. But if you want to do it yourself less frequently for less cash, I don't know why you'd need to pay a service for it.
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Aug 10, 2010 22:13
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moana posted:You can go to annualcreditreport.com and order your credit history from each of the three companies for free once per year. This will tell you what's on your history and if there's anything shady. For your FICO score (the credit score most people talk about) you'll have to pay extra, or you can use one of the free estimators out there like quizzle. Thanks for the information Moana and Dragyn. I'll check the report for anything out of order, then move on to the actual number. House is in ~3 yrs, so I won't worry about the short-term hit. Also, I love my husband, but he is no good when it comes to financial matters.
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Aug 10, 2010 22:13
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Dead Pressed posted:Is it worth the cash? I've thought about doing that, but I dont' like the idea of throwing away $12 every month on that service. :/ I'm crazy neurotic about financial matters like that, so to me, it worth the piece of mind. I also did catch a false claim against me last year because of it, which was huge for me. In reality, it's probably not worth quite that much, but I'm alright with it.
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Aug 10, 2010 22:32
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Practical advice needed. I'm currently throwing $200 a month in savings and $200 into a "Roth IRA" savings account. Since Vanguard requires a $3000 minimum before opening an IRA, it will take me 15 months to save enough to open one. Would it be better to divert some of the "Savings" fund into the "IRA" fund so that I can hit that minimum quicker? I have 4k in "Emergency" so theoretically I don't need the savings for anything short-term. It worries me slightly not throwing stuff into savings (even though technically I could just move it from the IRA fund if required) but I feel like this is just some irrational belief that isn't founded in anything.
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Aug 11, 2010 03:27
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polyfractal posted:Practical advice needed. I'm currently throwing $200 a month in savings and $200 into a "Roth IRA" savings account. Since Vanguard requires a $3000 minimum before opening an IRA, it will take me 15 months to save enough to open one. Would it be better to divert some of the "Savings" fund into the "IRA" fund so that I can hit that minimum quicker? I have 4k in "Emergency" so theoretically I don't need the savings for anything short-term. I don't see any harm in that. Keep in mind that if there is a genuine emergency or a legitimate need for that money, you are allowed to withdrawal your contributions any time for any reason without penalty or taxes (you already paid the taxes). You do pay taxes and a penalty if you take out the earnings, but when you take money out, all your contributions are taken out before the earnings are even touched.
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Aug 11, 2010 03:39
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polyfractal posted:Practical advice needed. I'm currently throwing $200 a month in savings and $200 into a "Roth IRA" savings account. Since Vanguard requires a $3000 minimum before opening an IRA, it will take me 15 months to save enough to open one. Would it be better to divert some of the "Savings" fund into the "IRA" fund so that I can hit that minimum quicker? I have 4k in "Emergency" so theoretically I don't need the savings for anything short-term. The Vanguard STAR fund only requires $1000 initial investment and is a fine choice until you reach $3000.
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Aug 11, 2010 19:24
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Strict 9 posted:The Vanguard STAR fund only requires $1000 initial investment and is a fine choice until you reach $3000. I have a vanguard star account that my parents opened for me like 12 years ago with around 1k, and I curse its existence almost every time I take a serious look at my portfolio. It's only worth about 3k now, which is pretty horrible in and of itself, but if I do the numbers and compare the returns I've gotten on other investments (stocks, mutual funds) that I've made myself, it's just like arghh. At this point, the star account is only like 5% of my overall portfolio, so I think I'm just going to leave it in reverence to my parents and cash it in when I'm 80 or something, but I constantly wish I never had it. do your due diligence before investing in this one and make sure you don't have anywhere better to put your money at such a young age
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Aug 13, 2010 08:23
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Really? It was up 4.83% over the last 10 years and has beat the indexes in every other period except 1 year. Considering nearly every major index lost money during the last 10 years, I think that's pretty darn good.
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Aug 13, 2010 13:30
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I'm new to the US (been here a year), and trying to establish a solid credit history. This entire time I've been using a secured credit card, but finally got approved for an actual credit credit card. As far as the credit score is concerned, am I better off keeping both or canceling the stupid secured card? ninja : I know the OP says don't worry about credit scores and just make good decisions - but I'm genuinely concerned about eventually successfully qualifying for a car or home loan. Same Great Paste fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 03:54
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Part of credit score, AFAIK, is open credit history. Keep it unless you're paying an annual fee while not using it, or something. Granted, that just like....my opinion, man.
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Aug 14, 2010 03:57
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I'm going to preface this post with I like my toys, and I'm sure I could save more but that is irrelevant. I work as an engineer, I have pretty good job security and I'm not worried about future income. I currently squirrel away 8% into my 401k and for my 25th birthday present to myself invested 3k into a Roth IRA (two weeks ago). The bad part, I took out 40k in student loans which my parents co-signed. 2 years ago, a little after I graduated my parents took out a home equity loan to pay off my loans to benefit from lower interest rates. Currently the loan has a balance of 15k at 3.2%, but my name isn't on the loan. Basically I pay them on this balance each month trying to pay it down quickly. I also owe them on a personal loan, but that's not important at this time. Last year I bought a Jeep as a 2nd vehicle / project with cash. Besides 1k in stock, those are the only purchased assets of mine. The run down: took out student loans with parents co-signing. Payed those off in parent's name. I have one credit card for 6 years, however my mom is also on that account. I recently got my own credit card the parents have nothing to do with. The question: I'm going to buy a motorcycle. I don't need one but I want one. Now, like my Jeep I can buy a used one with cash. (yes even buying one I have a 6 month backup) However, I am pondering financing a new bike instead. Would it be beneficial to my credit to have this on record? Even if I buy a $4500 bike with a 2k down payment, will I see a significant benefit toward my credit if I want to buy a house say 3 years from now?
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Aug 14, 2010 06:25
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Same Great Paste posted:I'm new to the US (been here a year), and trying to establish a solid credit history. This entire time I've been using a secured credit card, but finally got approved for an actual credit credit card. Like Dead Pressed said, in your case since your credit file is so thin, you should keep it open, as long as it isn't charging you too many fees. They do look at the average age of your accounts along with how much of them you are using. It will matter less once you have had your actual credit card for a couple years, but if you close it now, you are going from an average age of 1 year back down to 1 month.
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Aug 14, 2010 16:52
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giundy posted:I'm going to preface this post with I like my toys, and I'm sure I could save more but that is irrelevant. Unlike Same Great Paste, you have tons of credit and if you are trying to buy a house, actually having money in the bank will go a lot further than any stupid extra tradeline you get from financing a toy you don't need, even if it does bump up your score a bit, which it might. It sounds like you make good money, so congratulations on that. But if that's the case, why are your finances so intertwined with theirs? Let me guess, you can't close down that credit card or take your mom off because it will hurt your credit? You put their house at risk for a bit extra tax deduction, and there is another personal loan out there but that's not important to you so lets not talk about that. Why is having another toy more important than standing on your own feet? I like how you justify buying it like your are doing the responsible thing in "building your credit"
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Aug 14, 2010 17:05
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giundy posted:The question: Paying a bank hundreds or thousands in interest fees just to possibly raise a credit score is one of the stupidest financial decisions one could make. Pay for your bike with cash and enjoy the satisfaction of having a paid for bike that no bank can repo from you and feeling like an adult!
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Aug 14, 2010 17:58
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Background: I'm 21 with no debts. I'm just barely starting a 401(k) and stuck everything in a Pyramis Lifecycle fund (2045). I understand I'll probably want to pick my own funds in the future, but is it reasonable for the time being? It's about 85% index fund, 15% bond fund. 45% is foreign. The expense ratio is 0.19%. I was about to pick my own plans, but I'm not sure if I can really do any better than that. Cuddlebottom fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 19:03
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Cuddlebottom, that is a good expense ratio and it seems like decent diversification; one of the issues I've found with target retirement funds is that they don't carry enough international exposure but this one seems good at 45%. Some people will say you're not being conservative enough with 15% bonds, some will say you're being too conservative, but it's really up to you (I think that's a fine stock:bond ratio for a 21 year old). Double check to make sure you're not paying any additional fees but other than that it looks good. When you change jobs (probably in the next 5 years like most young people), you'll want to be sure to roll it over and you might decide you want to reallocate, but I wouldn't worry about it until then.
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Aug 15, 2010 19:55
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moana posted:Double check to make sure you're not paying any additional fees but other than that it looks good. When you change jobs (probably in the next 5 years like most young people), you'll want to be sure to roll it over and you might decide you want to reallocate, but I wouldn't worry about it until then.
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Aug 15, 2010 21:05
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So after a year and a half of unemployment, I finally found a new job. I have about 27k in my old employer's 401k plan, $10k in a traditional IRA (my salary was high before), and $5k in a Roth. I assume since I've been unemployed for almost the whole entire year and just got a low 6 figure salary, this is the year I want to roll everything over into my Roth. My game plan was to start contributing as much as possible (50% of each paycheck) as soon as possible (October 1st) to my new 401k to try to reduce my income as much as possible but sadly, I'm not sure it's quite doable to get in under the 15% tax bracket since I won't be able to max out the 401k in that amount of time. Aside from making sure they dont pay the taxes with my 401k/IRA funds, is there anything else to watch for when you do a rollover? Edit: My 401k is also doing very well (vs my IRAs) at my old employer... probably because I put that $26k in within a 6 month time frame from Sept 2008 - March 2009. Is there any value at all in keeping it there vs. selling it and buying new stuff at higher prices? HooKars fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 00:12
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this is probably a really simple dumb question but how does ordering checks work? In the past I've always just used whoever my bank wanted me to, but I opened a new business account with BB&T and they want a couple hundred dollars for checks, which is ridiculous. can I just go to any of the billion 'discountchecksfree.com!!!' places, or is there any sort of certification or anything a company has to have? feel free to recommend places too.
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Aug 16, 2010 17:40
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