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MMD3 posted:I'm in SE, just off Burnside by Laurelhurst Park but I work in Beaverton at Nike so I know exactly where that parking lot is. I think I actually went to a Nissan meet there back when I had my old car. I'm actually straight down burnside off of 88th. I go straight down burnside everyday on my way to work. If you see a 2010 DGM STI make sure to flip me off or something  . FormulaXFD posted:I should give you a ride since I work in Tanasbourne. "Here's the STi on stock map. Here it is on Stage 1 AP." Hey another one! We could have an SA mini meet! 
allonblack fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 21:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You should look for an STI transmission and axles, although I wonder if the gearing is really suitable for an NA motor. Six forward gears! DCCD! Launching all day at half the load it was designed for! He will also need to repalce the rear diff ratio. Dropping in a 6 speed isnt quite straightforward.
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Aug 10, 2010 22:39
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Just so you guys can be sad with me (it's in the process of being fixed, thank god)
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Aug 10, 2010 22:44
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TeMpLaR posted:Just so you guys can be sad with me (it's in the process of being fixed, thank god) what compels a person to do this? especially to a total stranger... (assuming you don't have a ton of enemies in your town)
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Aug 10, 2010 22:49
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Hoodscoops and wings piss off idiots. Everyone else just road-rages from Nasioc folk driving like jackoffs.MMD3 posted:ahhhh, that'd be rad actually I wouldn't say I "know aftermarket exhausts." I'm just making my own down-pipe back exhaust, using a premade DP and hoping the Flowmaster 50 can keep the loving noise down. allonblack posted:Hey another one! We could have an SA mini meet! An AI goon meet is not something I'd be opposed to. 
FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 23:40
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jamal posted:and holy christ $423 retail, but we're pretty much taking offers on most of the jdm poo poo we've had sitting in stock upstairs. Think we sold a $500 v-limited lip for like $300 recently. I'm sorry man, but I won't be able to buy it. My brakes failed coming up to a red light and well:  It's going to be over 5k to fix and I just can't justify spending that much. I'm sad to see my 300whp car go  No insurance help cause liability only. Ugh. The engine still runs fine and all is generally well, save the radiator got trashed and the frame tweaked a little. Parting out seems like the only option to me, so make your requests now :P
Bob Log fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 01:20
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What aftermarket parts are on it?
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Aug 11, 2010 04:24
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Kid in the local club has a 2000 RS transmission for $250. I checked cars 101 and they didn't have a listed final drive ratio for the 2000 car, just my 2002 with a 4.11 ratio. The 2000 five speed should bolt right in to my 2002 right?
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Aug 11, 2010 05:44
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Downpipes: good ones have a cast bellmouth (most) okay ones have a 3" pipe welded onto a flange lovely ones have a 3" pipe hammered out to seem like a bellmouth. Godspeed parts are lovely. I see lovely downpipes crack right at the turbo flange all the time. Our (harman motive).downpipes use a cast stainless bellmouth and are catted with a 3" flange at the end. They're something like $500. Invidia and some other brands are pretty similar to ours. Cobb downpipes are nearly identical except they use a standard 2.5" donut gasket. If you want a full exhaust I would not recommend the cobb. Going with a full 3" will provide power gains even on a stock turbo. STi drivetrain: Buying a non-sti and then trying to upgrade it to sti parts is retarded and will cost you more money and effort than just buying a drat sti in the first place. especially if you want things like dccd to work the way they are supposed to. Slow is fast: 00 and 02 trans are probably not the same. may not even have the same clutch type. Also, dealership could have no idea what they're talking about. Losing the front diff on an 02 is not typical. Try to find a good subaru shop with real mechanics in your area. Many performance places just have a bunch of kids installing parts. Seat safety switch: I continuously hear good things about getting a master cylinder brace and have been meaning to try it. Also you need more negative camber in the front.
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Aug 11, 2010 06:11
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jamal posted:Seat safety switch: According to him he maxed out the negative camber in the front as far as he could around the caster problem in the right-front suspension; I'm on a set of 22mm dropped Epic Engineering springs that my PO installed, which may not be ideal either. After the winter (or possibly in the fall if it's particularly mild) I'd love to get the car up at my local rent-a-lift and see if I can kill a few hours figuring out what pieces are tweaked. e: vvv I've been told that SOC has announced a dealership training day on September 8 for the '11 STI which may be the official release here. WRXes are reportedly landing before the month is done; I haven't heard for sure but I'd be surprised if they weren't finding their way to the supply chain before the end of this week. They should be on dealer lots in the States before they make their way up here, surely. vvv Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 06:15
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It looks like the first 2011 WRX orders are starting to get fulfilled. I probably have a few more weeks to wait on the east coast before they start showing up in dealers. I really don't see the point in ordering one though, eventually they'll be available in quantity. Hopefully though, before the end of September, I'll have a 2011 WRX Premium hatchback (gray) to complement my 2002 WRB WRX sedan.
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Aug 11, 2010 06:21
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Blaise posted:What aftermarket parts are on it? A lot: Pretty much every cusco suspension part you can think of save the front strut tower brace, 4 Rota Attacks in Gunmetal wrapped in Star Spec Z1's, RS*R struts and Ti2000 springs, HTA68 turbo, 800cc Injectors, fully built engine, Greddy UEL headers, Perrin catless downpipe, Perrin catless Upipe, HUGE intercooler with no branding, Sparco harness bar, Blue Prodrive 5 point harnesses (these are rare I hear), 04 Sti Brembo calipers, Brembo slotted rotors, ACT Pro-light flywheel, JDM Gauge cluster, STI interior carpet, . There's a lot of other things that have been done but I can't think of them off the top of my head. It was a 2.5 swap with 2 liter heads, If you want to know about something in particular just ask and I'll let you know. bull3964 posted:It looks like the first 2011 WRX orders are starting to get fulfilled. Oooo I'm really tempted to get one now, but I want to drive it before I buy it. We shall see, I may end up with a GTI to replace it for the time being. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Aug 11, 2010 |
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Aug 11, 2010 06:36
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jamal posted:Downpipes: Good to know. I scoured Nasioc for a while trying to figure out what the catch was with them. I'm not that worried, if it's a crack at the flange I can do a bead build to combat heat-cycling and load stresses now that I know this.
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Aug 11, 2010 06:40
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jamal posted:00 and 02 trans are probably not the same. may not even have the same clutch type. Also, dealership could have no idea what they're talking about. Losing the front diff on an 02 is not typical. Try to find a good subaru shop with real mechanics in your area. Many performance places just have a bunch of kids installing parts. Agreeing with this. Seems odd that your differential would poo poo the bed only moments after you finished up your clutch job. Try draining the diff fluid and look for metal.
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Aug 11, 2010 07:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I ordered it a few hours ago. I'll let you know how it goes when it gets here, along with whenever I get my car up on a ramp I can lip off about the Holy Shift bushing kit. that stuff is all fine. You have to go with aftermarket camber bolts or plates or slot the struts to get any more camber. It's not uncommon to have a slight differential of caster from side to side.
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Aug 11, 2010 07:39
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I decided against a 2010 WRX and went with the 2.5i Sport back in February, but now that I've seen the 2011 WRX I sort of wish I had waited. Oh well.
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Aug 11, 2010 10:34
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I was having another stumbling issue with my WRX recently, but it completely went away when I filled up my tank (it was down a little more than halfway - 35L or 9.2 US gallons). It's done this before as well, so I'm assuming the problem is fuel related in some way. Is there sediment or something in my tank, or is it just a matter of changing my fuel filter ahead of schedule (60,000 km instead of 96,000 km)? I'm thinking the first owner may have run some of the absolutely abysmal garbage gas we have out here through it a few times to save some coin. Is Seafoam a completely stupid idea? I'm a little afraid to throw some in after what Amandyke went through. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 02:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is Seafoam a completely stupid idea? Seafoam is a terrible idea, search the forums, there's an old thread about all the pros and cons somewhere. I've used it on my cuda but no way on my subie. The gas is most likely just bad from that station, either they are doing something to it or I don't know what the gently caress. After I got my accessport and tune I was warned about checking the dynamic advance multiplier after I filled up because if a station has bad gas the engine will lower that to a degree. I think what you're probably learning is which gas stations are lovely around you. Avoid those stations that give you such problems and you should be fine. If you think there's some poo poo gas in the bottom of the tank I'd recommend getting a 5gal or 3gal gas can, filling it up with known good gas, then driving your car till it runs out of gas, then fill it up and see if the problems continue. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 02:57
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Bob Log posted:Seafoam is a terrible idea, search the forums, there's an old thread about all the pros and cons somewhere. I've used it on my cuda but no way on my subie.
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Aug 12, 2010 03:17
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Bob Log posted:Seafoam is a terrible idea, search the forums, there's an old thread about all the pros and cons somewhere. I've used it on my cuda but no way on my subie. Seafoam is also known as Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner. It is NOT NOT NOT a terrible idea when it is a standard maintenace item and done properly. Also if you think you have kangaroo fuel, drain it properly DO NOT RUN IT THROUGH THE ENGINE! FFS dude, what the hell? Bad fuel can and does damage engines. If you suspect there's bad fuel, you dont just dilute it, get rid of it immediatly. If there's crap in the tank, draining is always the solution too.
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Aug 12, 2010 03:30
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The tank even has drain plugs
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Aug 12, 2010 04:12
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Oh man I got superslammed there. Perhaps you shouldn't do that and drain your tank :V
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Aug 12, 2010 05:17
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I would imagine having actual solid crap in the tank would make it run a lot rougher (clogging the injectors/lines/filter/sock and the like); it's rough at idle when I'm starting to run halfway-full on gas (it slows down, almost stalls, and then "bounces" back up and vibrates the car violently - worse when there are accessories on) and the throttle response is really "patchy" if that makes sense. Feels kind of like when my old car had problems with ignition. I can definitely try draining it, if it is as easy as just pulling a drain plug. Would having a heavier clutch disc possibly cause some idle problems as well? The PO installed an Exedy organic clutch to get ready for power mods he never bought. I'm thinking the idle RPM might need to be bumped up a little bit to compensate for the extra inertia on the flywheel - but that seems kind of unlikely. If it is gas at fault, I figure it's just some old nasty gas at the bottom of the tank from some supermarket gas station and the car is pulling timing because it's upset. I've filled it up weekly since I've had the car, though, so it should have diluted out by now if that's the case. I did have to switch stations on the last tank to an E10 mix from a truckstop Mohawk because my preferred supplier (Shell) decided to run out of gas completely; I seem to remember I had similar problems the last time I was running that mix as well. I've switched back to Shell now and the stumbling issue has gone away. Perhaps it is just the gas station at fault. Would it still make sense to change the fuel filter ahead of time if I have no idea what the previous owners' fill-up habits were? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 06:34
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"Bottom of the tank" Doesn't exist as people think, since the pump-sock/inlet of the pump resides at the bottom.
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Aug 12, 2010 06:40
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Sounds like it was just lovely e10 (Just like CA gas YEEAAHHHH!!!) if you've filled up since and it works just fine. Also get that V2 AP already!
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Aug 12, 2010 18:14
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Might be able to purchase an 86 Subie XT Turbo (4wd) with around 109k miles. Is there anything I need to know about this car before I check it out?
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Aug 12, 2010 18:48
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Check the airbags (suspension). Those things tend to deflate and leave the car sagging pretty bad. A lot of people just swap in springs from a Loyale onto those things. May also want to check coolant system, and watch out for torn/clicking CV axles. Also, enjoy the terrible 80's 'futuristic' dash.
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Aug 12, 2010 20:47
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The gas station we normally go to (grocery purchases give $.x0 off each gallon, sometimes as much as .50) is 10% ethanol in the 93 octane. Should I be actively avoiding that?
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Aug 12, 2010 21:02
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:The gas station we normally go to (grocery purchases give $.x0 off each gallon, sometimes as much as .50) is 10% ethanol in the 93 octane. Should I be actively avoiding that? Unless you're noticing some issues with your motor running on that gas, I wouldn't worry.
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Aug 12, 2010 21:31
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Amandyke posted:Unless you're noticing some issues with your motor running on that gas, I wouldn't worry. Yeah, you're going to get worse gas mileage and may be down a little on power, but it's not going to hurt anything. From what I understand, turbo subies actually run pretty darn good on even E85 after some minor conversions (bigger injectors and fuel pump) and a custom tune.
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Aug 12, 2010 21:36
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I have a 93 Impreza L Wagon. Lately, I've had a CEL and I'd like to see what its for. The car is ODB1 and I can't scan it. What do I do? I found a Youtube video attempting to explain it but it's still not very clear to me. I've been noticing VERY poor gas mileage lately. If it's not just poor because of a bad o2 sensor, then I think the gauge is messed up. How do I diagnose and fix this? I am very unfamiliar with ODB1 cars.
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Aug 12, 2010 21:42
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Noob here, read the first ~25 pages and then the most recent 15 or so. Amazing wealth of information, I really wish I knew a bit more about these things. I've got an '08 WRX and I'm reading that I should get the camber adjusted to -2.5°. I'm assuming thats front tires only? The car has 18k miles and from what the internets is telling me, going for a full alignment would be a complete waste--but is it necessary for a camber adjustment? The last 6k miles (since I've owned it) have been.. aggressive driving  I'm going on a "scenic" road trip in a couple weeks (~2k+ miles, trying to hit a lot of mountains/national parks/forests along the Appalachians.) I'm going to bring the car in to my mechanic for a lookover, oil change, and camber adjustment(?) before I leave. Would a tire rotation also be a good idea? Any other suggestions on things to take care of or easy tweaks? Its completely stock hardware/settings as far as I know, at the moment.
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Aug 12, 2010 21:50
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Dejarik posted:I've got an '08 WRX and I'm reading that I should get the camber adjusted to -2.5°. I'm assuming thats front tires only? The car has 18k miles and from what the internets is telling me, going for a full alignment would be a complete waste--but is it necessary for a camber adjustment? As a rule, if you adjust one suspension parameter -- ride height, camber, caster, or toe -- you'll have to adjust the rest. A full alignment is always necessary. As far as doing just the front, that's probably fine. Improving front grip via a simple alingment goes a very, very long way towards balancing the handling of any FWD or AWD car. Manufacturers deliberately under-camber the front of their cars to make them wash out (understeer)when the limits of traction are exceeded. Understeer is considered safer for the average lovely driver, presumably because it will prompt them to hit the brakes and then slide safely off the road into a tree. Oversteer is the condition where the back end starts rotating (losing traction) before the front end, and is considered scary and awful and dangerous. Both on the race track and on the street, oversteer is easy to handle in an AWD or FWD car: steer in the direction of the skid and add throttle.
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Aug 12, 2010 23:08
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, you're going to get worse gas mileage and may be down a little on power, but it's not going to hurt anything. From what I understand, turbo subies actually run pretty darn good on even E85 after some minor conversions (bigger injectors and fuel pump) and a custom tune. Yah I'd say you can get some good power from E85:  http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987903 Amandyke fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 23:49
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get out posted:I have a 93 Impreza L Wagon. Lately, I've had a CEL and I'd like to see what its for. The car is ODB1 and I can't scan it. What do I do? I found a Youtube video attempting to explain it but it's still not very clear to me. Is this the video you found? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GEYepYzyiY I haven't tried it myself yet, but I've got a 93 Impreza LS wagon, and the service manual for it, and the video matches what the manual says pretty well. This all seems right too: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ I think the green connectors you're looking for will be under the dash, on the driver's side, to the right of the steering wheel. quadpus fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 01:26
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On the 04-07 STi, how fragile are the VF39 turbos? I started doing the DP swap and noticed some oil on the compressor outlet and on the IC outlet into the throttle body.  I don't feel like blowing a bunch of money on another turbo. If I have to, is there anything that is a drop in reliability upgrade (not looking for more power, just something a bit better built if at all applicable).Update: well the turbo shaft has zero play at all, it's nice and tight. FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 02:20
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get out posted:I have a 93 Impreza L Wagon. Lately, I've had a CEL and I'd like to see what its for. The car is ODB1 and I can't scan it. What do I do? I found a Youtube video attempting to explain it but it's still not very clear to me. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm FormulaXFD posted:On the 04-07 STi, how fragile are the VF39 turbos? I started doing the DP swap and noticed some oil on the compressor outlet and on the IC outlet into the throttle body. that oil isn't from the turbo, it's from the pcv system. Normal.
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Aug 13, 2010 03:17
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Oh. Sweet! Thanks. Also - it's no wonder the godspeed DPs crack, they make the thinnest welds possible with as little filler as possible. I'll be ribbing mine when I add the cat, but still... FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 03:59
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GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! Just got my car back from getting the motor and tranny mounts swapped. The motor isn't dancing around the engine anymore! BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE! Apparently when my dad used to own the car, he did a  So here's the really FANTASTIC news. Rod Knock. The very early onset of it, so I'm not completely screwed right this very second, but a rebuild will be ~$6k. SO, anyone have the hookup on a motor? 
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Aug 13, 2010 16:25
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I pulled a Code 35 - Canister purge solenoid or circuit. What is it and how do I fix this? Could this be the cause of the poor gas mileage?
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Aug 13, 2010 20:11
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