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Took my front brake master cylinder apart as much as I could. I can't figure out how to get the plunger out, any ideas? Part #2 needs to come out so I can inspect the seals. I've removed the nipple, banjo bolt, lever and brake switch and still can't get the plunger out.    
Drunk Pledge Driver fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 02:00
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 @ Drunk Pledge: Crap, I have a photo sequence from my caliper rebuild but not the MC. Probably because I wanted to fling it out the window. I'll try from memory... It will help immensely if you have access to a Harbor Freight and can get your hands on a variety pack of dentist picks and more importantly some circlip pliers with extra long attachments. Not only do they have to have a reach, but the ends have to be incredibly small to fit the clip. You may have to improvise with them. Should be under $10 out the door. The rubber boot is keyed to one recess on the end of the shaft and one on the inner wall of the assembly. Getting the old one out intact isn't crucial, since it should be included in any aftermarket rebuild kit. It is probably not worth your time to dismantle this thing simply to inspect it. Once you're in, you should refresh everything you can, because you won't want to do it again in this lifetime. The boot should come away with a shot of WD and some coaxing (inner lip first), depending on how grunged up things are in there. I think I may have just slashed away at it because my entire system was frozen shut. Behind that should be the circlip pictured in your diagram (second from left). Circlip pliers, some more lube, and a heap of patience. It's hard to get at, and harder to know if you're locked into both holes. Some people monkey with the dentist picks mentioned above. A vise of some kind is a must. I believe that once the circlip is out, the spring and the rest of the guts come out without a fight. Reassembly no less a bitch.
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Aug 12, 2010 04:45
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Yanked off the cam chain on the KTM and pulled the spark plug, piston is not seized, which was my original concern when the motor wouldn't turn over. Is there an easy way to put on a new timing chain for a KTM rfs motor? Seems like something I'm underqualified to tackle. You can break both the new and the old chain and use the old to pull on the new, then rivet the new.
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Aug 12, 2010 08:50
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Today I finally got new fork seals on the bike. Only been leaking for two years. Leaving them reassembled but off the bike overnight to see if the fix of my catastrophic drilling holds tight. Have also been pondering some winter mods. Upright handlebar, acewell gauge and flyscreen. Possibly a new paintjob as well if I can think of a good look.
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Aug 12, 2010 19:33
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Valve adjustment day! Had to drain the coolant and remove the radiator, but eventually I got my hands on those tiny, oily, little bastards. They weren't off by much so it didn't fix the weird engine noise, but at least the bike still runs.
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Aug 12, 2010 19:55
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Put a K-9 fork brace on the KLR today, then took it for a quick ride to test it out. Didn't notice much difference at low speeds. The bike was really steady when I took it up to about 75 though. I actually went a little faster than I intended because it didn't feel like I was going that fast. It also felt pretty stable doing a little bit of cornering. I'll have a better ride report in the KLR650 thread once I take the bike out in the mountains for a few hours on Saturday.
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Aug 13, 2010 01:49
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It took a week, Naval Jelly, 2 coats of phosphoric acid from Kreem and a gallon of Evapo-Rust, but it's gone. I've beaten back the rust in my tank! Since I started on Monday I've learned A: Evapo-Rust really works and is cheap at HF and B: how to properly seal the tank. Now I've got the liner setting up as we speak. My parts arrived on Monday and I replaced the transmission cover and gasket. The bike now holds oil! I also bought a chock/stand from HF and got the center stand on. I'll order next a new chain, 15 spoke sprocket, new tires and a battery cable. The next steps will be cleaning out the carb and testing the electrics.
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Aug 14, 2010 06:31
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Was inspecting my bike Thursday night for my trip to Colorado on Sunday when I noticed my stock Dunlops were very nearly showing tread. So its new tire time. Wanted michilin PR2s but in such short notice I ended up with some triple compound Bridgestone Battlax. Got abour 4600 miles on the stock Dunlop Sportmax on the VFR
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Aug 14, 2010 07:15
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the walkin dude posted:Cue ordering a new tire, which takes 1.5 weeks to get here, then an appointment for the tire switch. I ride the bike in that time span, filling it up when necessary. Riding your bike knowing there's a nail in the front tire seems like a really, really bad idea. You could have at least plugged it.
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Aug 14, 2010 10:42
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I had intended to take it for a spin around the block and change the oil. Instead I ended up having to charge the battery and figure out why there is oil on the outside of my forks instead of the inside  (I'm guessing something is not right with the fork seals?)
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Aug 14, 2010 12:38
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upsidedown posted:I had intended to take it for a spin around the block and change the oil. Instead I ended up having to charge the battery and figure out why there is oil on the outside of my forks instead of the inside That would be a good guess. It's leaking upwards on the inner fork tubes right? Today I decided my luggage rack needed a makeover. Here's what it looked like before:  A rather ugly mess of rods that wasn't very stiff and didn't distribute load properly which ended up snapping the aluminium bracket behind the pillion foot peg.  Off with it! I rather like the clean tail, although the indicators seem depressed. I have a spare set of rear indicators (actually OEM SV 650 ones with clear glass) I could use if the luggage rack was off.  Maybe a bobber mod while the weather is nice and my tools are out?  Good thing the guard dog is trained to bite me if I try to do retarded mods.  Right side mock up. Two rods instead of three, at right angles instead of all over. The overshooting lengths of rod will be cut off once I'm satisfied with the mounting solution. It will be slightly stiffer than before, much better load distribution, cleaner looking and actually much easier to remove if I want to rock the clean look for a while, although the tail is very scratched and ugly. It would be properly stiff if I could attach it directly to the subframe, but that means drilling the tail. Unless I can think of another way to do it tomorrow morning, when the mosquitoes are gone. Ola fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 20:03
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Immediately lowered the property value of my townhouse complex by putting the ex500 on the patio on jack stands. Bringing the wheels in tomorrow for a rubber swap with Avon AM26 RoadRiders. Also took a good look at the rear sprocket while it's off, there's the start of shark-toothing as well as several teeth missing their points. I'm pretty sure the PO used a chain slack of ~3" to do this much damage in only 17k. The chain also acts like one of those bendy sculpture toys and tends to keep its shape, also with bonus rust rings on the inside of the links. New sprockets and chain en route
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Aug 15, 2010 23:29
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Checked me valves after 17000KM. Every one was still loose! gently caress you Suzuki and your 6000km reccomondations, that's retarded. Also changed me sparg plugs and a cap. AND NOTHING WENT WRONG. It was a good day 
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Aug 16, 2010 01:45
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Rode back from the Kootenays and oiled my chain as soon as I got in the door. Looks like the new brake fluid is holding up, and the front actually seems a little stiffer. So that's another thing I apparently can do sort of alright. Cool.
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Aug 16, 2010 06:12
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Ola posted:That would be a good guess. It's leaking upwards on the inner fork tubes right? Yeah, seems to be leaking out there then onto the fork brace and down the outer fork tubes. A dealer quoted me $360 (  ) to replace the seals. Still waiting for my local independent guy to get back to me.
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Aug 16, 2010 07:47
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upsidedown posted:Yeah, seems to be leaking out there then onto the fork brace and down the outer fork tubes. A dealer quoted me $360 ( That doesn't seem too bad, if it includes both parts and labor. Not cheap, but not bad. I finally figured out the perfect luggage mounting solution:  Need to cut the rods and test fit with all parts in place, but it seems rock loving solid. Even less hardware than the way posted above, the entire thing comes off with two bolts on either side and no bits sticking out. It also means I can safely repaint the tail in winter as the rack won't scratch it up again. So rewarding work this, simple mechanical troubleshooting, weighing the forces at work against the hardware available. Much like building Lego as a child I think. And the more I work on this bike the less I want to sell it.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:53
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upsidedown posted:Yeah, seems to be leaking out there then onto the fork brace and down the outer fork tubes. A dealer quoted me $360 ( Parts for my KLR were about $45, Buying the tools that I didn't have on hand was probably another $20. It took about 4 hours to do both. Now that I've been into them once, I could probably do both in a couple hours.
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Aug 16, 2010 16:31
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Ola posted:That doesn't seem too bad, if it includes both parts and labor. Not cheap, but not bad. Considering GSX750 fork seals are less than $15/piece and the labor involved is less than an hour, if you know what you're doing, $360 seems a bit pricey to me. But never mind, I'm willing to change fork seals on any bike for only $359.95.
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Aug 16, 2010 16:31
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AnnoyBot posted:I went in to do the same on my '82 Seca tonight. Turns out the manifold bolts are made of butter just like the carb screws so I've got a broken stud. I've now entered the land of drills, screw extractors and possibly pulling the head and taking it to a machine shop. I've read enough threads on the subject at xjbikes.com to know that I'm in for a very expensive fix. That is, assuming I don't decide to roll the fucker into the river next to my house at 2am. Well, I got a set of extractors a few days ago and promptly broke one off in the stud. I just finished grinding it out with a Dremel. I'm calling the machine shop now...
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Aug 16, 2010 17:31
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AnnoyBot posted:Well, I got a set of extractors a few days ago and promptly broke one off in the stud. I just finished grinding it out with a Dremel. I'm calling the machine shop now... The machine shop can't do a Helicoil better than you can. Man up!
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Aug 16, 2010 17:48
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A tale of two premiums--eBay seller TAS Classic Motorsports sends two mints and a thank-you note with each order. Classy and appropos...  ...while keepitroostin.com and All Balls go the sticker route. Yes, my balls have arrived and they're all sporting Oakleys and a mohawk. $17 shipped, including the seals.  Got really tired of looking at this gash the PO left on the clutch cover. I suspect he wore cleats. Screw it--it'll probably be another two years before I even contemplate dismantling this thing down to the frame and doing a proper job of refinishing everything. Rattle can in situ for now. Hit it with sand paper of no particular grit for about a minute, haphazardly masked the centerhole, and pressed on.  PJ1 satin black engine paint in the house.  Then mine eyes looked eastward toward the faded and disgusting fins. Went for it. Very edge of the top five came bare metal from the factory; I'll break out the detailing tools once I'm convinced this stuff can survive a driving rain. Sure as hell can't look any worse than it was.  Stripped and scrubbed the valve cover via wet sanding and other methods; far better than it was, but if I can't get it to shimmer, I'm considering alternative finishes.
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Aug 17, 2010 04:11
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Got the rack pieces cleaned up and gave them a bit of paint. Retapped all the old threads and spent a lot of time putting it properly into place, including a clean up of the tail end. It's not absolutely perfect, but so much better than before. Went on a nice evening ride down some small roads, lovely smell from the sea and no rattles from the tail! All I need now is a good bike wash, check that my tent gear is in order and claim some various money owed to me by work and I'll be off on a week-ish long trip. So nice to be riding again.
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Aug 17, 2010 19:29
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New Spitfire! The old tire was showing some (un)healthy cracking, so I figured it was due for repl   JESUS CHRIST IT'S THE ORIGINAL loving TIRE ...I really should pay closer attention.
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Aug 19, 2010 01:11
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Jesus built my hotrod, Bill Gates helped me fix it, and Bones will be analyzing its charred remains after it explodes on I75. Some possibly useful takeaways and time savers for the uninitiated: 1) The MotionPro bucket depressor has to be carefully managed. I believe it is a bit too thick for the job--it only has to be off-center a red bajingo hair for it to prevent shim removal and seating. It also has a habit of skewing in one direction or the other--the handle may appear to be perfectly perpendicular to the camshaft, but the business end of the tool can wander just enough to ruin your day. Until this is sufficiently out of the way, the round peg going into the round hole may as well be a dodecahedron going into a buckyball. More often than not, a tap away from the bucket in question allowed the shim to drop in on attempt #1. 2) 79-83 DOHC-specific - Cyl 2 exhaust shim 1 has to exit and enter from the front of the engine due to the tach housing. There is no other way. You will realize this after attempt #377. 3) Tweezers + oil = The Penguin trying to undo Catwoman's outfit with salmon-slimed flippers. Get a magnet. My telescoping magnet was too powerful and latched onto everything; I used a longish screwdriver with a magnetized tip that was weak enough to be used with precision. And yes, like everything that makes a job easier, there are Internet pseudo-engineers claiming it's a bad idea. Magnetic shims mythbusted here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=201856.html 4) It helps if you played Operation a lot when you were a kid.
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Aug 19, 2010 05:01
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Performed surgery on the GS850. The heli-coil that was put into cylinder 3 before I bought the bike came out the other weekend, so I bought one of these and installed it tonight http://www.amazon.com/Perma-Plug-1-25-Spark-Plug-Repair/dp/B0025PMJHA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1282277418&sr=8-1 Pretty painless... and yes, I am loving lazy, and I did leave the head on the bike. I put #3 at bdc and then coated the tap with axle grease and went after it, backing it out to clean after every few turns. It worked beautifully, and I was done in about 30 minutes. There was one small piece of aluminum lying on top of the piston when I got finished, which was easily picked up by touching it with a screwdriver. I had the shopvac and a length of tubing on standby to chase wayward chips out of the cylinder, but turns out I didn't even need it. I then put some Loctite red on the outside of the sleeve, some anti-seize on the spark plug threads, and installed the sleve. After hitting the expander a few times with a hammer, I threaded in the spark plug. It's all back together and torqued down now, and the bike fires up just like it did before.
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Aug 20, 2010 05:24
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Cleaned and rebuilt my GS850 carbs last night, installed dynojet kit today and put it all back together. Jumped it with the truck about 30 min ago and it runs better than I've ever had it run (had it for about 8 years). I'd go for a ride, but my battery is dead as poo poo.
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Aug 20, 2010 22:34
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I pulled my first clutch up wheelie today. Based on my previous experimentation, I was completely unprepared when the bike immediately shot up to 10 o'clock and kept going. It was a scene worthy of Youtube as I almost fell off, chopped the throttle, and then slammed the front down, followed closely by my nuts into the tank. I then sped away hunched over in ball pain, cackling like mad. It was awesome, although I am glad noone was there to see it. drat sure forgot about my lovely day at work though.
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Aug 20, 2010 23:30
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Hot Buttered posted:I pulled my first clutch up wheelie today. Based on my previous experimentation, I was completely unprepared when the bike immediately shot up to 10 o'clock and kept going. It was a scene worthy of Youtube as I almost fell off, chopped the throttle, and then slammed the front down, followed closely by my nuts into the tank. I then sped away hunched over in ball pain, cackling like mad. It was awesome, although I am glad noone was there to see it. drat sure forgot about my lovely day at work though. Remember to always cover your front break 
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Aug 20, 2010 23:32
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Hot Buttered posted:I pulled my first clutch up wheelie today. Based on my previous experimentation, I was completely unprepared when the bike immediately shot up to 10 o'clock and kept going. It was a scene worthy of Youtube as I almost fell off, chopped the throttle, and then slammed the front down, followed closely by my nuts into the tank. I then sped away hunched over in ball pain, cackling like mad. It was awesome, although I am glad noone was there to see it. drat sure forgot about my lovely day at work though. Everyone's wheelie experience starts like this. What bike are you on?
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Aug 20, 2010 23:53
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KTM Duke II
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Aug 20, 2010 23:56
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I couldn't help but giggle when you said that, because KTMs are even more absurd wheelie machines than most bikes. And remember my first time on Zool 690, where immediately accidentally 12 o'clocked it. 
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Aug 21, 2010 00:01
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I bought a battery for my SV.. 12-BS like everyone else and their mom buys. Turns out the ABS model needs a 12A-BS or a 9-BS as they're about 2" shorter than the 12-BS. So, if anyone is in socal and wants to buy a brand new 12-BS I'm trying to get $30 for it. $120 battery install, in a nutshell.
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Aug 21, 2010 00:09
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New sprockets are here and ready to go, but the supposed "RK Racing Chain" I ordered is a roller bearing chain with a clip-style master link  Here's hoping they take the return gracefully, already have a proper O/X-ring chain on the way from bikebandit.
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Aug 21, 2010 16:38
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Took the bike for a ride today after charging the battery overnight. Holy poo poo...so this is what a good running bike feels like. I still have that sinking feeling when the rpms get around 1k (where it should idle) thinking that I'm gunna stall at a stoplight (which is used to because the carbs were very hosed up), but didn't stall once. Idles perfectly, pulls evenly through all rpms. How do I tell if it's getting too hot though? I don't remember the engine getting this hot before, but it was also like 100 degrees outside today. E: Suz. 1980 GS 850
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Aug 21, 2010 20:13
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Installed some Pazzo adjustable levers. Previous owner once I'd looked had made the screws for the zones adjustable, but that didn't do anything for the super long reach. They're in and I like them a lot. My purchase came with some 2-ply gel diamond grips but once I got to the bars I knew they'd never go on. Too small of a diameter. I guess I'll have to buy a proper set that fits, but I really was hoping the freebies would...
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Aug 21, 2010 20:42
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Terminal posted:New sprockets are here and ready to go, but the supposed "RK Racing Chain" I ordered is a roller bearing chain with a clip-style master link Hardcore racing chains don't use orings. Reduces rolling resistance in the chain. But really cheap ones are that way too. 
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Aug 21, 2010 21:58
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New front tire, changed oil & filter, cleaned air filter, fixed most of the oil leaks, put the fairings back on and put the saddlebags on. Vancouver, here I come! MrZig fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Aug 22, 2010 |
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Aug 22, 2010 00:22
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I put it (the 850) on Craigslist. I'm not super motivated to sell it, so I'll see what happens. It's a great bike (even with your oil leaks from the bottom end, you Harley wannabe  ), but after taking it out for an hour and a half on Saturday the sad realization finally sunk in. In spite of everything it does well, I love my ST that much more. As much as I'd like to, I can't ride two at once. It's wrong of me to keep it held captive in my garage, when all it wants to do is go out and ride.
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Aug 23, 2010 00:20
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Today, I used my bike to be snarky and bitchy like I usually am, but cannot fully express through a helmet. I had stopped at a gas station. A tiny little blonde woman with big sunglasses driving an Escalade pulled in behind me. It was time to lube the chain, so I did that first (since I'm lazy, though, I did it without putting the bike on the center stand, and just spraying all around the chain...shut up, I know). It was a new can of lube, so the first shot left a big old globby puddle on the chain. Finished up, filled up the bike. By this time (I'd also gone to the bathroom), the lady in the Escalade was done. Since it looked like I was finishing up, she decided to wait for me to go, so she could just pull forward, instead of backing her huge rear end into a Y turn to get out. Except that I'd taken my helmet off, had to rearrange my stuff, get my headphones in, bla bla bla. So I was taking my time, and she was getting visibly annoyed at my pokiness in getting out of her way. As soon as I started up my bike, she inched forward, so she was right behind me. So I promptly sprayed lube all over the front of her shiny Escalade and gunned it out of there. I win!
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Aug 23, 2010 01:53
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modify_evolution posted:So I promptly sprayed lube all over the front of her shiny Escalade and gunned it out of there. I win!  Little late in posting but my bike finally got tired and took a little nap on Saturday. End of a extremely hot (107 IN THE SHADE) trackday, I was apparently more tired than I thought. We'd packed up most of the poo poo into the car and were starting to load the bikes up on my trailer. Dropped the front wheel off the stand and went to the back of the bike, did my normal routine to lower the back and... whats this? Oh the stand is only on one spool? Great! *thud*  It was SO loving HOT the stand had sunk down into the asphalt and when I started to roll it up it popped out of the divots with more momentum than I was expecting. the right spool dropped off the stand and over it went. No damage to speak of thanks to Woodcraft case gaurds and frame sliders!
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Aug 23, 2010 07:33
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