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Automaton Empire posted:I've been playing a Dean Edge Pro for the past few years, and while it's been a great bass to learn on and the electronics are nice, I feel like it's time to move on. I've started going around to some local shops to check out basses. Tried out a a used Fender Geddy Lee Jazz Bass; the thing just played beautifully. I have not played any other Fender Jazz basses, anyone have any input as to how a MIM Jazz Bass might compare? The Geddy bass has a thinner neck profile, "vintage" model pickups, and a Badass II bridge.
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Aug 4, 2010 04:06
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I think the internet consensus is that you could find a MIM as good as that CIJ geddy but you're going to be trying out a few MIMs to accomplish that. Try out the jaguar too, also has the slim neck profile and "vintage" model pickups.
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Aug 4, 2010 04:48
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Doomy posted:I think the internet consensus is that you could find a MIM as good as that CIJ geddy but you're going to be trying out a few MIMs to accomplish that. Thanks for the tips. I think I'll probably shop around a bit more and see if I can try out some different Jazz basses so I can get a feel for the differences. I guess part of what I'm trying to get a grip on is how different the manufacturing processes are in country of origin, and how it relates to how it feels in my hands, and how it sounds. I for whatever reason had always assumed that the MIM versus Made in Japan or US debate was over the quality of the electronics, and not the rest of the instrument... I'm slowly learning otherwise.
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Aug 4, 2010 17:30
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I'm not sure, but I think it also relates to the quality of wood used. It has to be something other then labour and electronics for a 500$ markup
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Aug 4, 2010 17:32
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Doomy posted:I think the internet consensus is that you could find a MIM as good as that CIJ geddy but you're going to be trying out a few MIMs to accomplish that. For some reason I thought both the Jags and the Geddys both moved production to Mexico. I'm pretty sure about the newer Jags... not so much about the Geddy, so don't take too much into that. Also the Jag is active.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:24
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Really? I wasn't aware, I bought my jag a few years ago. I don't think there's significant differences between manufacturing processes in different countries, most factory made instruments are going to be shaped, carved and routed with CNC machines. From what I've heard, the main difference will be the tolerance of that machining (which gets exponentially more expensive with precision), the QC of the factories (which will be the attention to the little details like fret edges, finish, binding etc.) and the quality of the materials used (agathis versus alder, say)
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Aug 4, 2010 23:52
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Doomy posted:Really? I wasn't aware, I bought my jag a few years ago. Quality of the materials maybe, but not type. Fender doesn't use Agathis for anything as far as I know. It's either Alder or Ash. Typically Alder.
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Aug 5, 2010 00:32
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I was thinking more along the lines of the lowest low end squires that sell for $100 or less.
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Aug 5, 2010 00:52
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Demon Seed posted:I dunno if this has been brought up yet, but Bootsy Collins started a online funk university about a month ago. Its mainly video lessons, from Bootsy, Brian Hardgrove, Divinity Roxx and others. Les Claypool and Victor Wooten will supposedly have some lessons on there soon. You can sign up for a year, 6 monthes, or one month. Theres not a ton of stuff on there yet, but a lot of insight from Bootsy and some other big names. It doesn't teach theory, mostly just funk and motown techniques. I really like it so far I've been hearing a lot of mixed reviews about this. Some say its a colossal waste of time and money, others say its pretty fun and worthwhile. Seems like it's a neat idea, but they maybe haven't perfected it yet? I dunno, I plan to check it out... but I'm pretty confident they couldn't really teach me anything new.
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Aug 5, 2010 15:59
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Do they have any free sample lessons? I looked around the site because I was interested to see how they'd do it, but all I saw were basically commercials  Ah well, there's always this
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Aug 5, 2010 23:38
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Scarf posted:I've been hearing a lot of mixed reviews about this. Some say its a colossal waste of time and money, others say its pretty fun and worthwhile. Seems like it's a neat idea, but they maybe haven't perfected it yet? You will not learn any new theory at all. NONE. Its definitely a little rough around the edges right now, I only signed up for a month. Basically its a bunch of videos of bassist's talking about they're roll in whatever style of music they play. There is some video lessons for random songs, with tabs to help you play them. Mostly Jamerson, but like I said its only been running since the first of July. The community there is alright, alot of videos posted on the forums of whatever bass lines they like. I Signed up just for the insight, I wanted to know how bootsy learned and developed, and what his musical ideas were. If your a begginer/intermediate bass player, this just might help you, Its pretty good motivation, at least. Bootsy's basic funk formula is featured on the site as well.
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Aug 6, 2010 08:19
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Demon Seed posted:You will not learn any new theory at all. NONE. I think that it's mainly Jamerson because he's the artist of the month they're focusing on.
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Aug 6, 2010 12:43
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And honestly I find this kinda funny coming from Bootsy seeing as how he's said the following in a past interview with Mike Gordon: Mike: Did you always know how to groove or did you have to learn how? Bootsy: Haha, nah man... You can't learn how to groove.
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Aug 6, 2010 14:14
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Today, I parted ways with this bass '04 Ric 4003.. A great bass indeed, but before shipping it out, it was all reverted back to original chrome tuners/bridge and white pickguard. I'll be holding onto the blackout pieces for the next 4003 that comes my way. Let me know if you ever come across a good deal on a 2010+ 4003 in jetglo or another color which would rock in blacked out fashion.
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Aug 6, 2010 17:24
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Figured this would be the best place... The other night I was playing a gig and I broke TWO strings. Over the last couple of months I've had a problem with breaking strings on stage. Usually they happen while playing finger style but the first of the two was with a pick, and the second was with a drumstick. Now, let me clarify here, there's a song we wrote where I hit the strings with a drum stick. Fairly hard, but not enough to actually snap them at the first hit. I have a MIM Fender Jazz, and I replaced the stock bridge with one from allparts.com (This one). It came with no instructions so I just lined it up with the old one and drilled it in. I've noticed whenever I break a string on stage a very large percentage of them break at the bridge saddle. I have been currently using DR strings. Could it be my bridge? Am I playing too hard? Noise Machine fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Aug 6, 2010 |
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Aug 6, 2010 21:16
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Got a close up of your bridge saddle? Where is the break? Don't think the drum stick has anything to do with it.
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Aug 6, 2010 21:29
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The break happens right in front of the saddle, or on the saddle, it's too close to tell.
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Aug 6, 2010 21:57
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Got a picture of YOUR bridge? Interested to see how long the adjustment poles are, if something flexes, gets caught, causes the string wounds to shear causing the break. Or just an odd angle, or even a bit of rough marks on the bridge itself causing premature wear. The other thought - how do you break in strings? Stretching them out?
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Aug 6, 2010 22:22
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drat Schatte, thats a really sweet bass. Why'd you sell it?
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Aug 7, 2010 17:04
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Can someone give me a good starting point for learning to slap? I've been meaning to start learning that, but, well, it's hard.
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Aug 10, 2010 11:38
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Geisladisk posted:Can someone give me a good starting point for learning to slap? I've been meaning to start learning that, but, well, it's hard. Try and find the video, "The Slap Bass Program." Probably close to two or so decades old, but it's the industry standard on slap bass instruction.
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Aug 10, 2010 15:17
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Well I finally got around to getting my bass set up, which means discovering that the truss rod is apparently broken (the tech said he had to physically straighten the neck, not sure how that works if the rod is snapped - surely you couldn't adjust the tension in that case?) and a tuner is on its way out, but other than that the action's way better and it feels much faster, but also holy gently caress new strings! They didn't stock DRs so I went with some Rotosound Swings and man, it's a whole other instrument. Hello definition, and hello lots of harmonics that I need to learn to control Can't believe I waited so long to get a bass, when I played guitar in a band I was always the wannabe bassist. Isn't it meant to be the other way around? 
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Aug 14, 2010 15:04
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baka kaba posted:Can't believe I waited so long to get a bass, when I played guitar in a band I was always the wannabe bassist. Isn't it meant to be the other way around? Only in the heads of ego-inflated guitarists.
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Aug 14, 2010 15:41
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I have a Fender-style bridge on an Aria P-Bass imitation and I'm running into a problem. I was setting the action / intonation and would get it lined up perfectly. Then I'd play a song or two to test it out and afterwards it wouldn't be intonated (These aren't new strings, so they should be broken in pretty well). Looking closer, my bridge is doing this: I can push it back afterwards, but it's annoying and doesn't quite get back to the exact spot it was. I play with my fingers and sometimes pluck the strings pretty hard, but I don't think it's excessive. It's mostly the amount you would for playing slap bass. Is this normal behavior for Fender style bridges or is mine cheaply made? Is there a way to stop this from happening aside from getting a different bridge?
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Aug 14, 2010 17:54
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DeathBySpoon posted:I have a Fender-style bridge on an Aria P-Bass imitation and I'm running into a problem. I was setting the action / intonation and would get it lined up perfectly. Then I'd play a song or two to test it out and afterwards it wouldn't be intonated (These aren't new strings, so they should be broken in pretty well). Looking closer, my bridge is doing this: That's not normal behavior. There should be enough downward pressure by the string to keep it in place. I just checked on a MIM Precision and it took much more force than you'd use while playing to get it to move even a little bit. Are both of the height adjustment screws making contact with the base plate when it is positioned correctly?
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Aug 14, 2010 18:28
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DeathBySpoon posted:I have a Fender-style bridge on an Aria P-Bass imitation and I'm running into a problem. I was setting the action / intonation and would get it lined up perfectly. Then I'd play a song or two to test it out and afterwards it wouldn't be intonated (These aren't new strings, so they should be broken in pretty well). Looking closer, my bridge is doing this: How do you have your string wrapped around the tuner-post? If you've got it wrapped from the bottom up, then yeah, it may not have enough downward pressure across both the nut and the saddle... But I've never seen that. Like DrChu said, check to make sure that both height-adjustment screws are making contact with the bridge-pate. You're not down-tuning at all, are you?
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Aug 14, 2010 19:56
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I play drop D occasionally, but when I noticed this I was tuned to standard. The string is on the bottom of the tuning post, with the rest of it wrapped upwards, so the string itself is lower than the nut when it comes off of the post. Both of the height-adjustment screws are also touching. Someone else pointed out that there is nothing in the bottom of the bridge itself to keep the height-adjustment screws on-track. Is there supposed to be an indent or something to keep them straight?
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Aug 14, 2010 20:04
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DeathBySpoon posted:Someone else pointed out that there is nothing in the bottom of the bridge itself to keep the height-adjustment screws on-track. Is there supposed to be an indent or something to keep them straight? I don't know about in general, but my Aria does have grooves for the screws
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Aug 14, 2010 20:35
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DeathBySpoon posted:I play drop D occasionally, but when I noticed this I was tuned to standard. The string is on the bottom of the tuning post, with the rest of it wrapped upwards, so the string itself is lower than the nut when it comes off of the post. Both of the height-adjustment screws are also touching. Someone else pointed out that there is nothing in the bottom of the bridge itself to keep the height-adjustment screws on-track. Is there supposed to be an indent or something to keep them straight? Hmm, then yeah, everything sounds good. My current basses have little "tracks" for the adjustment screws to rest in. But I want to say I've had other basses that did not and never had this problem.
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Aug 14, 2010 20:55
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I've got a gear related question. I'm now saving up for a new head, and I've been looking at this beauty: http://www.thomann.de/fi/orange_ad200b_mk3_black.htm Has anyone had any experience with it? I've only heard good, no great stuff but a second opinion is always welcome. Also, what are my options if I want something similar? I play downtuned, groovy stuff and I want a thick, warm fuzzy sound. Pricerange would need to be around 1500€.
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Aug 15, 2010 13:07
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Dyna Soar posted:I've got a gear related question. I'm now saving up for a new head, and I've been looking at this beauty: http://www.thomann.de/fi/orange_ad200b_mk3_black.htm Orange amps have a very unique sound. Very very growly typically, hard to get good clean tones. But they aren't made for that... They're renowned for their overdrive tones.
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Aug 16, 2010 03:21
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You're probably gonna want to run that sucker through as many speakers as possible to get the most out of it. I've heard that the AD200 works well with 15s, which makes sense since Orange also makes a TL606 style cab. Also, people break bass strings? I didn't even know that was possible. I've been using the same flats for over a year now.
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Aug 16, 2010 05:49
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Scarf posted:Orange amps have a very unique sound. Very very growly typically, hard to get good clean tones. But they aren't made for that... They're renowned for their overdrive tones. Yeah, I don't really play clean. The more fuzz the better  I'm just weighing my options. 200 watts is a bit more than I need, our guitarist has orange gear as well so I probably won't overpower him TOO much I'd be playing it through a lovely 4x10 cab at first, but down the line I've been thinking of a 1x15 and a 2x12 orange cabs for it.
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Aug 16, 2010 07:24
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Dyna Soar posted:Yeah, I don't really play clean. The more fuzz the better You could always try the Terror Bass, their mini-head. Granted it's 500watts but you can dial in the crunch. And it weighs a whole hell of a lot less... I'd post a video, but it seems every video of someone playing the Terror bass... well, they're loving awful bassists.
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Aug 16, 2010 14:25
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Dyna Soar posted:Yeah, I don't really play clean. The more fuzz the better Should I take a stab in the dark and guess you're into the Boris sound?
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Aug 16, 2010 14:45
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baka kaba posted:Should I take a stab in the dark and guess you're into the Boris sound? Actually no, not that much. 4 years ago I just happened to be listening to Boris when I made the account. They were a pretty good band before Smile. What I'd most want is a 70s Sunn head but there's basically none for sale in Europe. The tone I'm after is a lot heavier than Boris.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:35
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Scarf posted:You could always try the Terror Bass, their mini-head. Granted it's 500watts but you can dial in the crunch. And it weighs a whole hell of a lot less... Yeah there's a 1000 watt version of Terror Bass coming, if I haven't bought the tube amp by then I'll def try it out. It'll be under 666€ too, which I could basically afford now.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:44
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Is anyone familiar with the Tech 21 VT Deluxe pedal? Even the VT Bass - I'm very interested in it, but can't find great videos demonstrating it.
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Aug 19, 2010 19:34
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golden posted:Is anyone familiar with the Tech 21 VT Deluxe pedal? Even the VT Bass - I'm very interested in it, but can't find great videos demonstrating it. I've had the VT Bass since it came out. What do you need to know?
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Aug 19, 2010 19:46
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Do you like it? Is it a normal part of your rig? How does it do distortion? More of a buzz? How would you compare it to the BDDI? Does it scoop mids like the BDDI? What kind of sounds can you get out of it? Do you have any recordings with it?
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Aug 19, 2010 19:52
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