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Anybody else with a Gti that can hear their gas tank sloshing around when you're making turns or backing up? Weird.
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Aug 6, 2010 05:57
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I've left my car in storage (indoor) for about a month. Where they are suppose to spin it up once a week. Should I be concerned about condensation and such when I get back? The tank was a little over half full (I was in a hurry and didn't get a chance to fill up before dropping it off at the storage facility). edit: 2010 Golf TDI.
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Aug 6, 2010 07:37
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Autism Sundae posted:Anybody else with a Gti that can hear their gas tank sloshing around when you're making turns or backing up? Weird. I do get what seems to be a rhythmic mechanical noise from the right side towards the back of the car sometimes when I'm stopped at a red light, almost like the fuel door wants to open or something. It's really weird and I've wondered what the hell it was.
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Aug 6, 2010 14:09
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teh jhey posted:I do get what seems to be a rhythmic mechanical noise from the right side towards the back of the car sometimes when I'm stopped at a red light, almost like the fuel door wants to open or something. I get that in the morning or after the car sits for a while, there's about a million threads on it in vwvortex's MKVI section. It's doing a fuel cap pressure check. What I hear every once in a while is just the noise of liquid splashing around and it's coming from the rear so I'm assuming it's the gas tank. It's pretty quiet, the fuel test is way louder.
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Aug 6, 2010 14:39
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A friend has a 1999 New Beetle with the following problems: It has a very small parasitic battery drain. If the car sits for more than 4 days it will not start (a few less days in the winter). The temperature light comes on to indicate overheating – but the radiator is full and the temp is normal and within range. This happens every time. Check engine light comes on and VW dealer said it throws dozens of codes... Not any particular problem. Can I check codes on this VW with a standard OBD-II reader or do I need one of those VAG-COM things? I did some looking around and it seems there is a TSB for coolant leaking onto the wiring harness and causing errors in the gauge cluster. Also, there is a TSB for certain radios causing an undue drain on the battery. Any common causes for the multi-error CEL problem?
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Aug 6, 2010 17:53
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PBCrunch posted:Can I check codes on this VW with a standard OBD-II reader or do I need one of those VAG-COM things? A standard OBD-II reader will work just fine. It won't give you as in-depth of a scan as VAG-COM will, but it should suffice for a CEL. I would just write all the codes down and google them, I usually do that and you can find a detailed description of the actual problem pretty readily.
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Aug 6, 2010 20:11
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PBCrunch posted:A friend has a 1999 New Beetle with the following problems: What color is the temp warning light in the dash? I've had customers worry when the little picture of a thermometer shows up on the dash but it has to be red and not blue. Post the codes you have and I'll tell you what I can about them.
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Aug 6, 2010 23:58
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Dr. Jackal posted:I've left my car in storage (indoor) for about a month. Where they are suppose to spin it up once a week. Is the facility climate-controlled? If the temps are constant then there shouldn't be too much issue with condensation. It might not be a bad idea to add some diesel stabilizer to the tank just in case.
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Aug 7, 2010 00:02
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09' Audi A4 3.2 quattro - good 'cruiser' car for my pops? He needs a new daily driver to putt around and the big back seats seem like a good plan.
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Aug 7, 2010 04:10
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Is that a B8? They're nice cars, but I wouldn't get any package lower than Premium Plus (the midrange package). I doubt you have to worry about that since it's a 3.2, so it's probably at least that or higher.
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Aug 7, 2010 07:30
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http://imgur.com/2sofK.jpg How bad is this? It IS a possibility that I put a bit too much oil in on my last oil change about a month ago(I was pretty careful to put close to 6.8quarts but couldn't have been any more than 7); Could too much oil combined with the wretched heat in my part of world cause oil to make it past the valve cover gasket? I assume I need to go ahead and replace my valve cover gasket. What else? This is a 3.0L in a B6 A4 if you can't tell, which I'm sure you can.  Thanks in advance for any help gsr. RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Aug 7, 2010 |
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Aug 7, 2010 10:29
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RapeWhistle posted:http://imgur.com/2sofK.jpg Before replacing your valve cover gasket be sure to check the torque on the valve cover bolts. Over time the gasket can shrink a little which allows some oil to seep past - especially around the bolt holes and the bores where the coils go. If the bolts are all tight then go ahead and replace the gaskets. I doubt that too much oil or heat would cause the seep you've got so don't sweat it.
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Aug 7, 2010 17:39
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Sockington posted:09' Audi A4 3.2 quattro - good 'cruiser' car for my pops? He needs a new daily driver to putt around and the big back seats seem like a good plan. The 3.2L A4 is a pretty good car to cruise around in - it's not as good on gas as the 2.0T but the difference is very minimal and it's a much more trouble-free engine option. There's lots of room in the backseats and a trunk that can fit a couple of golf bags easily. Overall the A4 you're talking about is a very nice example of the line - especially if it ends up being an S-line car that gets even nicer seats and wheels.
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Aug 7, 2010 17:46
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my1999gsr posted:Before replacing your valve cover gasket be sure to check the torque on the valve cover bolts. Over time the gasket can shrink a little which allows some oil to seep past - especially around the bolt holes and the bores where the coils go. If the bolts are all tight then go ahead and replace the gaskets. I doubt that too much oil or heat would cause the seep you've got so don't sweat it. Is there a specific torque setting for those valve cover bolts? I couldn't find anything in the bentley manual.
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Aug 7, 2010 21:20
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Some friends of mine just impulse-bought a used 2005 Passat 1.8T, 4WD automatic with 60k miles. They are not "car people" so I am trying to figure out what services and/or recalls they should do. It seems to me that they should do the timing belt, and make sure it has fresh good-quality oil as the 1.8L seems to have a sludge isssue. I found online data that shows the 1.8L got an 8-year extended warrenty thru the 2004 model, because of sludge-related failures, but I can't find any information on the 2005 model 1.8L. Surely VW would include the 2005 model in any recalls or extended warranties? Anything else they should know? They paid quite a lot for this car, and I'm not happy with the anecdotal reports I see on the web.
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Aug 8, 2010 09:26
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RapeWhistle posted:Is there a specific torque setting for those valve cover bolts? I couldn't find anything in the bentley manual. Sorry! I should have posted that too - the torque is 9Nm and you start with the middle bolts and work your way out.
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Aug 8, 2010 16:12
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Number_6 posted:Some friends of mine just impulse-bought a used 2005 Passat 1.8T, 4WD automatic with 60k miles. They are not "car people" so I am trying to figure out what services and/or recalls they should do. It seems to me that they should do the timing belt, and make sure it has fresh good-quality oil as the 1.8L seems to have a sludge isssue. When the 1.8T first started having problems with oil sludge, VAG decided to go to a larger oil filter in the hope that it would provide better filtering and add a little more oil capacity - that was step one. Step two was to recommend that all 1.8T owners use synthetic oil. When cars kept coming in with engine damage from sludge/oil starvation, VAG had us pull the cam bearing caps and check for damage on the number one intake cam journal. If the customer had records of regular oil changes then they got a new motor and that was the end of it. If your friends have their service history and the Passat has had its oil changes on schedule and it still has a sludge issue down the road, my guess is that VW will still cover them. Often situations like that are at the descretion of the CS/Goodwill people at VW but I've seen several questionable situations where VW basically said "Screw it, give them an engine." Other than that, take the Passat to your local VW dealer and let them go over it. Once they register you in their system, they'll let you know what (if any) outstanding recalls or TSBs are still pending. EDIT: Did they buy the car from a VW/Audi dealer?
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Aug 8, 2010 16:26
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my1999gsr posted:Sorry! I should have posted that too - the torque is 9Nm and you start with the middle bolts and work your way out. Thanks. Everything was torqued on there fine. I'm just an idiot and probably poured a little oil on the bolt during my last oil change. I cleaned the oil out of there and will monitor it for new oil, which I doubt will appear.
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Aug 8, 2010 18:54
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Either this evening or tomorrow i'll be inspecting a used 2004 Jetta GL, not sure which variant, 64k miles. Carfax is clean, etc etc. Is there anything in particular I should look for besides the usual with these models?
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Aug 13, 2010 18:57
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I'm retarded and scraped the hell out of one of the stone guards on my B8 S4. I was planning to just get the rock guards off this package: Aluminum Optic Trim Kit S4 09+ Item Number: 8K0071685A 3Q7, but the dealership wants $350 to install. It can't be that hard, right? Is there some special trick to taking the stone guards off or putting them on?
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Aug 13, 2010 21:36
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SwashedBuckles posted:I'm retarded and scraped the hell out of one of the stone guards on my B8 S4. I was planning to just get the rock guards off this package: Aluminum Optic Trim Kit S4 09+ Item Number: 8K0071685A 3Q7, but the dealership wants $350 to install. It can't be that hard, right? Is there some special trick to taking the stone guards off or putting them on? After looking on the Audi accessories page, it doesn't look like a difficult install - certainly do-able as a DIY if you take your time. As an alternative, try calling around for quotes from your local bodyshops to install the kit - it's usually a tedious job so it might be worth your while to get it done by a pro. According to my shop manual, you won't need any tools besides a heat gun to soften the adhesive but I can tell you from experience that the adhesive is nasty to remove, especially since your car is so new. Bottom line, I'd have a look at the instructions that come with the kit and see if it looks like something you feel comfortable doing. If it is, great but if not you have other options. P.S. Please get that trim kit - I hate that Audi used badges that say "V6T" and that kit replaces those badges with ones that say "Supercharged". my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 22:52
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my1999gsr posted:After looking on the Audi accessories page, it doesn't look like a difficult install - certainly do-able as a DIY if you take your time. As an alternative, try calling around for quotes from your local bodyshops to install the kit - it's usually a tedious job so it might be worth your while to get it done by a pro. Thanks for the help. And I've been thinking of putting the supercharged badges on since before I got the car; there's no turbo so why is there a V6T badge 
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Aug 16, 2010 13:36
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Hey gsr, can you price out the chrome strips on an 04.5GLI for the drivers side? Both doors, and the front GLI emblem?
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Aug 16, 2010 18:05
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veedubfreak posted:Hey gsr, can you price out the chrome strips on an 04.5GLI for the drivers side? Both doors, and the front GLI emblem? I'll try but our parts dept has been... unstable lately. Our parts manager left and his assistant just got fired which leaves the dealership's owner in charge of parts ordering and inventory which has turned the department into a gong show.
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Aug 16, 2010 23:03
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SwashedBuckles posted:Thanks for the help. And I've been thinking of putting the supercharged badges on since before I got the car; there's no turbo so why is there a V6T badge Audi customers can't be arsed to know about their cars, I guess.
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Aug 17, 2010 03:50
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devmd01 posted:Either this evening or tomorrow i'll be inspecting a used 2004 Jetta GL, not sure which variant, 64k miles. Carfax is clean, etc etc. Is there anything in particular I should look for besides the usual with these models? GL is only the 4cyl non-turbo 2.0, right? More commonly known as the 2.slow...but it really is a great engine. A little rough and mechanical-sounding, but for sure it's a great engine. Just change the timing belt and oil. Electronics are a little wonky, but honestly, I have a 99 of the same generation as that one and I haven't had anything that's more than a minor inconvenience (3 of my door modules are out- I have to lock/unlock with the keyless entry). GOONS I HAVE A QUESTION AS WELL I have been looking for a 2004-05 Passat, specifically a manual V6 4motion one. Is this a decent engine? Can you tell me any more about the trouble spots on these cars?
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Aug 17, 2010 04:04
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kimbo305 posted:Audi customers can't be arsed to know about their cars, I guess. 
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Aug 17, 2010 15:42
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:GL is only the 4cyl non-turbo 2.0, right? The 2.slo good in the sense that it will pretty much run forever. But didn't the mk4 2.0 have oil consumption issues? My 95 2.0 had 150k miles on it and ran just like new (unless it was hot outside in which case the electrical gremlins cropped up).
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Aug 17, 2010 18:17
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My Volvo V70 has a 2.5TDI Audi engine in it - the B5252T as it's known apparently - There's no Haynes manual for this car, I can do anything on the body from a similar manual but the engine's stumped me, is there an Audi manual that will help me out?
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Aug 17, 2010 20:48
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I'm looking hard at a 2010 GTI in Northern California, is there anything that I absolutely MUST get as an option? I'm thinking that the Xenon headlights might really be worth it long term, other than that I don't see anything really necessary. Is there anything I should specifically be looking for when I'm test driving a GTI I'm thinking of buying? I know there's sometimes issues with particular components, if cars built earlier in the week are still better or if I should check for something to be rattling or not. Any advice is good, I've been quoted between 24k-26k as an OTD price but I still think I can get to 23K~ OTD, I'm checking the prices in Socal as well since I'm a SoCal AAA member and they have a no-haggle price from certain dealers.
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Aug 17, 2010 21:43
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Bob Log posted:I'm looking hard at a 2010 GTI in Northern California, is there anything that I absolutely MUST get as an option? I'm thinking that the Xenon headlights might really be worth it long term, other than that I don't see anything really necessary. More seriously HID lights are pretty cool. As cool as the plaid insert seats are, that might be a resale value killer if that makes a difference. The DSG probably gets better/easier resale value than the manual trans because most people are lazy. The upgraded stereo sucks in comparison to what you could get spending comparable money at a quality aftermarket specialist. Personally I would avoid the sunroof since it cuts into headroom and adds weight and additional electronics of questionable quality.
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Aug 17, 2010 23:38
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PBCrunch posted:Personally I would avoid the sunroof since it cuts into headroom and adds weight and additional electronics of questionable quality. I'd take a 2011 if it was a good deal but I have a feeling the 2010 will net me the best deal.
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Aug 17, 2010 23:47
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Bob Log posted:I'm looking hard at a 2010 GTI in Northern California, is there anything that I absolutely MUST get as an option? I'm thinking that the Xenon headlights might really be worth it long term, other than that I don't see anything really necessary. On mine I got sunroof, HIDs, Dynaudio, and wheels. Wheels are really just personal preference I guess, ride is a bit more harsh with the 18s. Sunroof should be standard in California in my opinion, and it's a nice sunroof too. It makes the interior brighter and lets air in without excessive wind noise and dirt that you'd get from rolling down windows at higher speeds. Adaptive xenons are 100% worth the money, and so is the Dynaudio system (which broke on mine and had to be replaced, but the new one sounds just as great). When test driving one listen for excessive wind noise and rattles from doors, especially near the lock area, and general rattles as well but that goes without saying. There is a small rattling noise from the exhaust area at roughly 2000-2500 rpm, but VW insists it's by design although VWVortex had(has?) a million people complaining about it. You may hear it if you drive with windows open. Window/door seals will squeak loudly when they dry out but that's not likely to happen for a while. Let me know if you have any other questions e: plaid seat inserts are standard so I don't know what the guy above was talking about. Leather is a waste since you're in CA and it gets hot, plus it's not real leather anyway. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 00:17
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And on the price, you should be looking at way below $23K for a base no options GTI. Check truecar.com, they seem to have pretty good pricing data.
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Aug 18, 2010 00:21
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I just successfully changed the water pump in my '01 GTI (VR6). No leaks and everything still works. Scariest part was jacking the engine up but so far so good.
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Aug 18, 2010 00:43
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Autism Sundae posted:On mine I got sunroof, HIDs, Dynaudio, and wheels. Wheels are really just personal preference I guess, ride is a bit more harsh with the 18s. Sunroof should be standard in California in my opinion, and it's a nice sunroof too. It makes the interior brighter and lets air in without excessive wind noise and dirt that you'd get from rolling down windows at higher speeds. Adaptive xenons are 100% worth the money, and so is the Dynaudio system (which broke on mine and had to be replaced, but the new one sounds just as great). Remember, MY10 is the last time you can pick and choose options because VW is going back to packages with MY11 and above. I got a stripper GTI (DSG/Dynaudio) mostly because it cost the least and if you're going to rip everything out, why bother loading it up to begin with. I'm very much missing the non-adaptive Xenons from the R32, but it's not the end of the world. quote:2011 GTI Factor in the cost of an awesome reflash and you got yourself a cheap hot hatch.  e: you are a giant human being if you don't get plaid seats Hatebreed fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 00:58
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Autism Sundae posted:And on the price, you should be looking at way below $23K for a base no options GTI. Check truecar.com, they seem to have pretty good pricing data. Are you talking Out the Door price with fees or are you talking the base "Price" of the car? I've been talking OTD fees and all when I say 24-26k, the OTD fees are ~2k where I live. Edit: I'd never get Leather Seats and the idea of paying to finance any of these "Options" is pretty ridiculous to me. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 01:06
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Bob Log posted:Are you talking Out the Door price with fees or are you talking the base "Price" of the car? I've been talking OTD fees and all when I say 24-26k, the OTD fees are ~2k where I live. I was 25K OTD after MD tax/title. 0% APR on MY10's right now so I'd get on that 
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Aug 18, 2010 01:16
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Bob Log posted:Are you talking Out the Door price with fees or are you talking the base "Price" of the car? I've been talking OTD fees and all when I say 24-26k, the OTD fees are ~2k where I live. The only fee I paid was the DMV registration fee. I paid $25K for mine before tax/fees in late December 09, which at the time was about $550 below invoice. Since it's now end of summer and 2011s are out I'd be asking for 1K below invoice at least. You'll pay a shitload in taxes since it's California, I made it in time for Obama's tax credit. Actually yeah there's destination fee, that's usually included in sticker so I didn't count it. And yeah only a human being would not get plaid seats. e: yeah Truecar is giving me factory invoice of 25802 on a 2010 with the options I got, so I paid about $750 below invoice and that's back when dealers had maybe one-two of them on the lot. With the stock they have now you should have dealers fighting for your money. Just email a bunch of them, I went through like 10 dealerships. Funny thing: I was at my local dealership a few weeks ago and a bunch of German dudes all dressed up come out and start looking at my car, one of them even shakes my hand and they walk away but keep talking about how "they don't sell enough of these". Asked my service advisor, turns out they were some exec guys from VW who flew in to tour this dealership. They actually really don't sell enough GTIs, lots are full of them. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 01:31
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I'm doing replacing the disks and pads on my 2005 A4 1.8T this weekend. I found a guide online, and it appears to be a pretty straightforward job. I've done brakes before, just not on this car. I've got the PB blaster and caliper tool ready. Anything special I need to know?
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Aug 18, 2010 02:48
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