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My only comparison has been with ilford 3200 delta and hp5 which haven't ever really faltered from the tables at dil B and E/H (whatever half strength B is). I'll just probably cut my dev time by a min or so but I hate wasting acros 
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Aug 19, 2010 23:44
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HPL posted:Watch your agitation too. Too much or too vigorous agitation will blow out stuff too. Yeah and always give it the same agitation. Everything you do needs to be exactly the same every time you do it.
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Aug 19, 2010 23:59
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I saw some prints the other day of negatives with the exposure details printed on the gap between frames, I guess with an segment LED screen inside the camera... is this a real thing, and are there any 35mm cameras that do it?
Zegnar fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Aug 21, 2010 |
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Aug 21, 2010 22:00
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Zegnar posted:I saw some prints the other day of negatives with the exposure details printed on the gap between frames, I guess with an segment LED screen inside the camera... is this a real thing, and are there any 35mm cameras that do it? It's real, it's called data imprinting. Looks like the Nikon F6 will do it as well as the EOS 1N, and I know the Pentax 645N, Mamiya 645AF will do it as well. Looks like you can do it on the F5 with a special back.
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Aug 21, 2010 23:01
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Reichstag posted:Nice picture. ... The lab got my roll confused with someone else's Hope they can get it back.
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Aug 22, 2010 00:13
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Paul MaudDib posted:It's real, it's called data imprinting. Looks like the Nikon F6 will do it as well as the EOS 1N, and I know the Pentax 645N, Mamiya 645AF will do it as well. Looks like you can do it on the F5 with a special back. Mannequin posted:The lab got my roll confused with someone else's
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Aug 22, 2010 01:57
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Mannequin posted:Nice picture. Try 7 rolls, and never getting them back. gently caress Thailand. 
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Aug 22, 2010 05:05
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pwn posted:The F4 has a special back too. I've wanted one for a while now. It was a local place, they sent it out to a smaller lab for processing, not really sure where. Pompous Rhombus posted:Try 7 rolls, and never getting them back. drat...
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Aug 22, 2010 05:30
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Just tried out some M5 flash bulbs and an old flashgun with a folding reflector. Tried taking a TLR self portrait...goddamn those things are bright. The magnesium inside burned a tiny hole through the side of the bulb so I'm kind of glad there wasn't anything too flammable about. I can see why red eye reduction and electronic flashes got so popular!
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Aug 22, 2010 06:35
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This is my first time venturing into using filters in film. How do Nikon's black and white filters rank? I'm seeing this and thinking  is too good to be true.Pretty much completely unfamiliar with this world. Enlighten me.
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Aug 22, 2010 10:53
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pwn posted:This is my first time venturing into using filters in film. How do Nikon's black and white filters rank? I'm seeing this and thinking I'm guessing that color filters are fairly simple to make, I've always seen 'em run pretty cheap. $10 for a colored filter in a standard kit-lens ring size doesn't sound unreasonably cheap to me, but it is a third-party seller in that Amazon link. Be a little wary, I guess? Pro shops do often have boxes full of old colored filters laying around though. I'd personally suggest a yellow or orange filter and a polarizer before anything else. Red's nifty too, it'll make outdoor scenes turn kinda alien and weird - black foliage, high contrast, dark skies with strongly defined cloud structures. Green's good for lightening foliage up if you're shooting lots of leafy stuff. If you want a quick approximation of what each one does, open up a color photo and play with the presets for Photoshop's 'Black and White' image adjustment. Ephotozine posted:Changes using the yellow filter are subtle so it's used by many photographers as a lens protector and most benefit is seen in landscape photography where the effect on blue is just enough to make a light sky a shade darker than the print's border. There are tons of gimmick filters out there too. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Aug 22, 2010 |
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Aug 22, 2010 11:34
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That's good info, thank you. My motivation is playing with red/green/blue combinations to produce colour prints. There's so many different numbers of each colour too. Is there a correlation to link the number of a given filter with Photoshop's B&W colour controls?
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Aug 22, 2010 12:24
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 Shots four roles of Kodachrome over the past day or so. I'm going to send them in tomorrow here is hoping they turn out.
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Aug 25, 2010 07:43
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ZoCrowes posted:
You won't be able to stop holding them up to the light and stairing at them, doesn't matter what you've shot.
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Aug 25, 2010 22:30
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Spedman posted:You won't be able to stop holding them up to the light and stairing at them, doesn't matter what you've shot. It's so depressing Dwayne's stopped processing 120 and larger Kodachrome. 35mm Kodachrome looks so good, but the 4x5s from the Library of Congress are just jaw-dropping. And now it's almost over for good.
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Aug 26, 2010 00:28
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Spedman posted:You won't be able to stop holding them up to the light and stairing at them, doesn't matter what you've shot. I went swimming with friends today and shot a roll of Kodachrome. I took my F4 + 50 out in the water with me, I felt pretty badass. 
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Aug 26, 2010 00:50
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From my ridiculous extravagant mass gear purchase at a yard sale last Sunday- A brace of Argus rangefinders, a C3 (every film shooter should own at least one brick) and a C44 with 50mm and 100mm lenses. I haven't tried the lens change yet. Both work and are clean enough to eat off of. A flash for the Argi and a lifetime supply of flash bulbs, a working GE light meter, and a nonworking Leica meter, and other treasures to be shown later. You should see the stash of photo paper. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 04:06
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Gnomad posted:From my ridiculous extravagant mass gear purchase at a yard sale last Sunday- Nice finds! The C3 is much tinier than in the pics on the web. How long does photo paper last, anyhow?
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Aug 26, 2010 04:18
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Sushi in Yiddish posted:
Good question, but the bigger question is "how long does chemistry last?" The most recent dates on paper or chemistry is 01-01, the oldest I've seen thus far is the Kodak color film development kit from 04-1995. The ektacolor RA chemistry dates from the mid 90's, even sealed it's likely pooched. 
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Aug 26, 2010 05:28
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I would toss* chemicals that old, unless it was a sealed bottle of a long-shelf life developer like Rodinal. *Dispose of safely through an authorized party. VV Yeah, powdered stuff might be fine as long as it wasn't exposed to lots humidity. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 05:47
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The powder stuff should be fine. In my high school photo class, my teacher brought out a can of paper developer from the 70's or so and it was still fine to use.
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Aug 26, 2010 05:55
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Will external light meters tell you how long to meter a scene for in particularly low light, like shots at night that might require a minute or two of exposure? Alternatively, have any of you used charts like this, and do they work? http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm (Scroll down to Chart B towards the end)
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Aug 26, 2010 05:56
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Mannequin posted:Will external light meters tell you how long to meter a scene for in particularly low light, like shots at night that might require a minute or two of exposure? Yeah, I'm pretty sure my Sekonic 758 is good for something like a 30 min exposure, not including reciprocity failure. Hell, I bet that could be programmed in too. I don't know even half of what this thing can do. McMadCow fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 06:10
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Mannequin posted:Will external light meters tell you how long to meter a scene for in particularly low light, like shots at night that might require a minute or two of exposure? Consult a reciprocity failure chart once you get a light meter reading: http://home.earthlink.net/~kitathome/LunarLight/moonlight_gallery/technique/reciprocity.htm
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Aug 26, 2010 06:20
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as long as the powdered stuff is still white, I reckon it's OK. The Rapidfix I can always test with film, but the color stuff will have to wait for hazmat day at t he local landfill. I've done color in the darkroom before and while it is enormously satisfying to emerge victorious with a color print, I'll do the color stuff on the Ricoh C720 that recently arrived at the office. The work I did with color did help me out when I started servicing color copiers. I knew more about the color correction than my classmates and I had the Kodak color correction filter set, you loked at the print and it gave you a rough idea of what needed to be done. Just the same, I'm happy that the newer boxes don't need any intervention. If they do, there's another problem that needs to be fixed. Anyway, more stuff  The motor base for the drum was the missing link. Given my limited darkroom space, I would rather try the drums than fool around with trays, but wasn't having much luck finding the motor. Well, there we are!
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Aug 26, 2010 06:35
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and flash bulbs! does even the most dedicated of luddite film nerd use flash bulbs? Amusing anecdote-as a teenager, my friends and I would spend days at the local landfill shooting at glass with our wrist rockets and looking for useful items. Yes, just like we were living in some 3rd world hellhole but diversion-wise, Eagle River was like that-and one fine day i found a whole bushel of flashbulbs that used a standard bulb base. Upon scuttling home with my prize, I proceeded to change out all of the regular bulbs in the house with flash bulbs. My mom thought the first couple were funny but the humor wore thin not long after and I was persuaded to return the normal bulbs to all the fixtures. Glorious while it lasted though.
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Aug 26, 2010 06:42
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Gnomad posted:does even the most dedicated of luddite film nerd use flash bulbs? I think there's actually still a tiny niche for them. The smallest flashbulb has a guide number of 150, the largest available had a GN of 550. They don't act like a point light source like an electronic flash - it acts like a diffuse light source the size of the reflector. But I've never used them and I don't know anyone who does, so it is probably a dedicated luddite thing. Nice haul by the way. Is that Eurynar a Tessar-formula lens? It looks pretty nice, you might want to see if you can make a rollfilm back fit it. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 16:32
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I just came across an old Canon Canonet rangefinder (the original with the film advance on the bottom of the camera). The self timer is stuck and the leaf shutter doesn't fire. Aperature blades seem to work in fits and starts. The light meter probably doesn't work, but I can live with that. Viewfinder glass is fogged. Would it be worth having a professional give this camera a CLA? I only ask, because I'm convinced that I'm never going to find another inexpensive rangefinder camera.
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Aug 27, 2010 06:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:I think there's actually still a tiny niche for them. The smallest flashbulb has a guide number of 150, the largest available had a GN of 550. They don't act like a point light source like an electronic flash - it acts like a diffuse light source the size of the reflector. I've used flash bulbs on a super speed graphic. They make a really satisfying sound when they go off. Buy yourself a crown or speed graphic with a graflite and put them to use...you will be a hit at parties.
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Aug 27, 2010 06:03
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fygar posted:I just came across an old Canon Canonet rangefinder (the original with the film advance on the bottom of the camera). The self timer is stuck and the leaf shutter doesn't fire. Aperature blades seem to work in fits and starts. The light meter probably doesn't work, but I can live with that. Viewfinder glass is fogged. Would it be worth having a professional give this camera a CLA? I only ask, because I'm convinced that I'm never going to find another inexpensive rangefinder camera. Canon Canonet QL17 GIII Rangefinders, which are the top of the Canonet line and feature a 40mm f1.7 lens can be found on Ebay for around $50-100. Unless you can get all those issues corrected for less, put it on the shelf and find another one. here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Canon-Canonet-QL17-G-III-rangefinder-35mm-camera-/190434487940?pt=Film_Cameras
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Aug 27, 2010 06:05
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I have one in almost the exact condition. I bought it for $1 and use it as a prop with models sometimes.  There are a lot of cheap, fixed lens rangefinders out there. I'm sure it would be cheaper to get a working later model Canonet or something like the awesome Olympus 35RC for less than it would cost to get the big old Canonet put back into working order.
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Aug 27, 2010 06:06
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fygar posted:I just came across an old Canon Canonet rangefinder (the original with the film advance on the bottom of the camera). The self timer is stuck and the leaf shutter doesn't fire. Aperature blades seem to work in fits and starts. The light meter probably doesn't work, but I can live with that. Viewfinder glass is fogged. Would it be worth having a professional give this camera a CLA? I only ask, because I'm convinced that I'm never going to find another inexpensive rangefinder camera. You can buy a good, working camera online for probably less than it would take to mail it to a CLA shop. I've found some success with former Soviet Union rangefinders like the zorki (if you don't mind bottom loaders), and Yashica also has a line of RFs that can be had for cheap.
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Aug 27, 2010 06:10
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fygar posted:I just came across an old Canon Canonet rangefinder (the original with the film advance on the bottom of the camera). The self timer is stuck and the leaf shutter doesn't fire. Aperature blades seem to work in fits and starts. The light meter probably doesn't work, but I can live with that. Viewfinder glass is fogged. Would it be worth having a professional give this camera a CLA? I only ask, because I'm convinced that I'm never going to find another inexpensive rangefinder camera. You could also try the Minolta Hi-Matic's too, I've got a 7sII, great little camera, plus John Glenn took a version into space with him.
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Aug 27, 2010 10:05
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I'm using those same M3b's for my Crown Graphic, as the above poster suggested, and it does work pretty well. I had to buy a special adapter to get them working my flashgun, but other than that it's worth using bulbs for the look of absolute shock on a person's face when you fire one off at them.
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Aug 28, 2010 21:57
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yeah I got my Oly 35 RD for less than a hundred eurobucks.
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Aug 28, 2010 22:07
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I've just come into possession of a Pentax Spotmatic SPII with a 50mm f/1.4 S-M-C Takumar lens. (It's got a black finish as well!) Cost me $100 and the only issue is some mild yellowing of the lens. I've loaded it with Tri-X for a true old-school feel. That being said, I have a question - the guy who sold me the camera is offering a 135mm f/3.5 lens for $50. Should I take it or leave it?
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Aug 31, 2010 08:57
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Zombotron posted:I've just come into possession of a Pentax Spotmatic SPII with a 50mm f/1.4 S-M-C Takumar lens. (It's got a black finish as well!) Cost me $100 and the only issue is some mild yellowing of the lens. I've loaded it with Tri-X for a true old-school feel. http://www.keh.com/camera/Pentax-Screwmount-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-PS060108005620?r=FE Looks like a pretty reasonable price if in good condition, Keh have some others selling at around $60 in EX condition.
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Aug 31, 2010 10:53
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Keh has an EX for $41 now.
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Aug 31, 2010 10:57
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Zombotron posted:I've just come into possession of a Pentax Spotmatic SPII with a 50mm f/1.4 S-M-C Takumar lens. (It's got a black finish as well!) Cost me $100 and the only issue is some mild yellowing of the lens. I've loaded it with Tri-X for a true old-school feel. Just a heads up, that yellowing is from radioactive isotopes in the lense. Anyway, enjoy your superfast glass takumar-buddy!
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Aug 31, 2010 16:40
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Moist von Lipwig posted:Just a heads up, that yellowing is from radioactive isotopes in the lense. I think I can top that. A friend of mine gave me a negative anti-dust brush in a very thick box. Displayed proudly on the label was "contains plutonium", which apparently would push the dust right off the negs or disrupt static cling.
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Sep 1, 2010 07:15
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