|
I've had one, sold it, regretted it, and bought another. theperfectbass.com - using 20% off coupon. Well worth it. I plan on selling the VT Bass and upgrading to the Deluxe soon. I dig the programmables, for diff songs and different basses. Quite an essential in my opinion, especially if you have a clean amp with little colorization. Also works well as a DI with the Deluxe. There are many examples of the VT bass on youtube, and more on talkbass, including discussions on the Deluxe, where some players are using it with a poweramp, or just direct to the board with nothing else.
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 20:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 13:21 |
|
|
Schatten posted:I've had one, sold it, regretted it, and bought another. theperfectbass.com - using 20% off coupon. Well worth it. I plan on selling the VT Bass and upgrading to the Deluxe soon. I dig the programmables, for diff songs and different basses. Quite an essential in my opinion, especially if you have a clean amp with little colorization. Also works well as a DI with the Deluxe. Aah, that sounds pretty perfect. I play a markbass amp into Eden cabs, so it sounds like ...my bass. It's very hard to get it broken up at all, so this sounds perfect. I'll go check out the talkbass thread, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 20:33
|
|
|
golden posted:Do you like it? Is it a normal part of your rig? How does it do distortion? More of a buzz? How would you compare it to the BDDI? Does it scoop mids like the BDDI? What kind of sounds can you get out of it? Do you have any recordings with it? Love it. Always on. I use it as a preamp bypassing my amplifiers pre and going straight into the power amp. It sounds much more like an SVT than the BDDI does. Don't really have any comparative soundclips of it though... but it's on during most everything I record. Here's some demos I did of a few other pedals with the VT on as well (has some parts where its just the VT and not the other effects). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-lqdvyuwnc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQUCDMa7iYk And here's a live recording from an old band:  I use it for primarily clean sounds, sometimes with just a TAD bit of breakup when I really dig in. Long story short, it'll make you sound like you're playing through an SVT. Scarf fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Aug 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 20:55
|
|
|
golden posted:Aah, that sounds pretty perfect. I play a markbass amp into Eden cabs, so it sounds like ...my bass. It's very hard to get it broken up at all, so this sounds perfect. I'll go check out the talkbass thread, thanks! If it helps, I play through MarkBass combo. It has quite an uncolored sound. If you don't like it, you can flip it pretty easily.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 21:47
|
|
|
I made some clips a while ago, I can't find my post with the setup details though. IIRC it was the bass > VT Bass > Little Mark II > XLR out to firewire interface. Clips are dry, then with the VT Bass on.    
DrChu fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Aug 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 00:17
|
|
|
Here's my "dilemma". I have two 4-string basses, soon to be 3 now that I'm finally back on the road to...finishing the finishing of my Jaguar Bass. I've been considering BEAD tuning. Well, let me describe the gear I have right now while it's handy: -A Hondo P-copy with very half-assed replacement bridge positioning. Basically I messed up swapping out the beaten original bridge for the Jaguar's, filled the holes and eyeballed it again. It does stay in standard tuning with a high action, but 99% sure this will have to be ruled out. -A Yamaha SBV-500, which is Jazz-style. -A Hartke HA3500 into Hartke 410XL(which has aluminum cones). Since for some reason I decided that I had to refinish my Jaguar about a week after buying it (and I've been seven months without it now), I can't recall how "tight" the instrument felt. I have to say though, the SBV feels amazing. Just perfect with the string tension and such. All of these instruments are 34" scale. The Jaguar will be getting a pair of Dimarzio Model J pickups, which supposedly sound massive and godly. This is most of the reason I was thinking of converting it to BEAD tuning when it's complete, but the SBV just feels right when I play it. I think it might be able to handle the low B well. But now I think...will the B even really "work" with my 10" aluminum cones? Will it just sound weak? I'm not in a band, nor do I focus on metal style or anything really heavy other than playing along to stuff like Jesu every once in a while. I just think that having a BEAD-tuned bass would spice up practicing as well as giving me some versatility. You think it's worth it? I'm not buying a 5-string anytime soon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 06:12
|
|
|
DrChu posted:I made some clips a while ago, I can't find my post with the setup details though. IIRC it was the bass > VT Bass > Little Mark II > XLR out to firewire interface. Clips are dry, then with the VT Bass on. WOW, thank you. Those sound incredible. I'm buying this tomorrow! :-D! Scarf posted:
Whoa, what else are you using? I love how that cuts through golden fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Aug 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 09:08
|
|
|
golden posted:WOW, thank you. Those sound incredible. I'm buying this tomorrow! :-D! For that one just bass, amp, VT. Using a Lakland 44-02, active electronics with my lows and mids boosted slightly. Same for the VT's settings. Had the Lows and Mids slightly boosted from flat, the Character setting at about 11:30, and the Drive at about 10-11o'clock.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 14:05
|
|
|
Achtane posted:But now I think...will the B even really "work" with my 10" aluminum cones? Will it just sound weak? I'm not in a band, nor do I focus on metal style or anything really heavy other than playing along to stuff like Jesu every once in a while. I just think that having a BEAD-tuned bass would spice up practicing as well as giving me some versatility. You think it's worth it? I'm not buying a 5-string anytime soon. You should be fine in terms of the speaker size, it just depends on the frequency handling of the particular cabinet. I'm not familiar with much Hartke stuff so I don't really know how it would sound. But I'd bet you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 14:09
|
|
|
Achtane posted:But now I think...will the B even really "work" with my 10" aluminum cones? Will it just sound weak? I'm not in a band, nor do I focus on metal style or anything really heavy other than playing along to stuff like Jesu every once in a while. I just think that having a BEAD-tuned bass would spice up practicing as well as giving me some versatility. You think it's worth it? I'm not buying a 5-string anytime soon. I haven't tried the aluminum Hartke cones with a low B, but tens and a low B, they work just fine. Only thing I would worry about is the top nut. If you go to a BEAD, and lose a bit more on the top nut, you'd have to replace it if you went back to EADG. Also, I want to see project/progress pictures of that Jag! Wondering what you are doing with the colored headstock too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 15:55
|
|
|
I'm aching for a decent but reasonably priced wah-wah pedal - what would you recommend? Could I do with one designed for guitar or do I have to shell out extra bucks? I've read that the lower frequencies would suffer badly at least. I could get Dunlop Cry Baby 105Q for 90 euros from a local store used. Worth it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 19:21
|
|
|
These Loving Eyes posted:I'm aching for a decent but reasonably priced wah-wah pedal - what would you recommend? Could I do with one designed for guitar or do I have to shell out extra bucks? I've read that the lower frequencies would suffer badly at least. Check out the Ibanez Weeping Demon. They're well built and go real cheap used. Loads of features in one unit, and has a switch that makes it really bass-friendly. The only "bad" thing about it is that is is real weird looking, very CNC/space-age glamorous. I've had one for about a year now and I use it for bass, guitar and keyboards and I love it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2010 23:59
|
|
|
Another +1 for the weeping demon. You can pick them up used for 50-70 bucks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2010 01:30
|
|
|
black_mastermind posted:Check out the Ibanez Weeping Demon. They're well built and go real cheap used. Loads of features in one unit, and has a switch that makes it really bass-friendly. The only "bad" thing about it is that is is real weird looking, very CNC/space-age glamorous. I've had one for about a year now and I use it for bass, guitar and keyboards and I love it. Thanks for the tip! Haven't yet found it used here but the price for even a new one isn't that bad. Will keep looking and probably test out that 105Q too in the store. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 17:23
|
|
|
All right bass goons, I need your help. I made a thread back in April about the troubles I was having with my Fender Deluxe Jazz bass (you can see it here if you have Archives), and while everyone was very helpful in that thread, I have not actually gotten anywhere. For those who didn't see the thread then and can't see it now, here's the basics. I have a weird jazz bass. It's an American Fender Deluxe from 98-99. On the Fender website, it's officially listed as having an "Odd" serial number - starting with DN. It's a great bass, I've been playing it for years. Unfortunately, one of the tuners broke mysteriously while in the drat case. Replacing the part is where my troubles start. I've looked on Fender's website - they don't have anything that looks like it. I've looked at just about every website that sells just about any tuner that Fender has ever used. I haven't found it. I briefly thought that Warmoth had the part, but it's not right either. The tuner is made by Schaller, and even they don't have the part on their website. In case you want pictures, here's one of the headstock; close up of the tuner one and two; and diagram of the broken tuner next to a similar but wrong piece. I'm losing hope at this point. The one thing I haven't done is contact Fender or Schaller directly - it seems pointles, since it's a weird bass that Fender sold for only two years twelve years ago, and Schaller doesn't even list the item in their catalog anymore. I feel like I've only got two options. Either drilling bigger/new holes in the headstock for a new tuner, or just replacing the entire damned neck. Of course I wouldn't drill by myself if that's the option I picked, I'd try to find a luthier (anybody know good guys in eastern Pennsylvania?), and right now I don't have anywhere near the money for a sweet neck. Sorry for the length - I didn't want to start a new thread, and I figured it might get more visibility here. Any ideas? E: More links. This is the part that Warmoth had that I thought was right, but the mounting pins are too big around, and the string post is not as long as on the original part. This is the same part on Schaller's site, but again, the mounting pins are too big, string post shorter, etc. Manky fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Aug 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 17:40
|
|
|
I would definitely try at least calling Fender before doing any sort of irreversible modification to your bass. If they can't help you, they can't help you, but it's at least worth a shot. If they don't keep records of all the parts they use I'd be very surprised.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 20:14
|
|
|
Since I'm a broke-rear end student, I can't afford to buy a set of separate pedals nor I'm yet aware what kind of pedals I'd buy so I was thinking of picking up a good multieffect (if one exists) to broaden my bass sound. What would you recommend as the most reliable, versatile and presumably line noise free? Was thinking of something in the price range of 180 to 250 €/$.
These Loving Eyes fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Aug 23, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 19:27
|
|
|
These Loving Eyes posted:Since I'm a broke-rear end student, I can't afford to buy a set of separate pedals nor I'm yet aware what kind of pedals I'd buy so I was thinking of picking up a good multieffect (if one exists) to broaden my bass sound. What would you recommend as the most reliable, versatile and presumably line noise free? Was thinking of something in the price range of 180 to 250 €/$. I own the Digitech RP500 (its actually a guitar multiFX) and it works well with my bass. Has octaver, envelope filter rubberey wah thing, cry wah, all sorts of delay, distortion, compression, flange amp models, etc. Question for you guys, I just changed my strings to a heavier gague and now my action is really high. I don't feel like messing with the tuss rod and completely redoing my intonation, but I will fiddle with the saddles. The only problem is I can't find a tool to adjust the saddle height. .small allen wrenches and screwdrivers don't seem to turn them. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 21:47
|
|
|
This tiny allen wrench is more than likely what you need. Its what I use on my Marcus Miller jazz.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 22:12
|
|
|
The saddle height will change the intonation slightly. If you are putting on very heavy strings (like 120's for a four stringer and tuning to E) you will need to adjust the neck as well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 22:25
|
|
|
never mind, fixed the problem.
Tree Limbz fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Aug 24, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 23:36
|
|
|
Ah cool, thanks. I know I'll need the nut widened but was sketching out on the speakers.Schatten posted:Also, I want to see project/progress pictures of that Jag! Wondering what you are doing with the colored headstock too. The headstock, like the body was stripped and sanded back down to bare wood. I had a progress thread on reranch, but it got deleted after being inactive a while. All of the pics are on my other HDD, I'll get em up sometime. Anyway, for whatever reason I fell in love with the look of Fender's Thurston Moore Jazzmaster and so I'm trying to get something close to that.  Click here for the full 420x1000 image. So the headstock is gonna be matte black. Today I sealed the body and painted the headstock -- my spraycan died on the final pass and I thought I was hosed, but it turned out perfect  I'll have to get a custom decal next...actually, for a week I was determined to sell the bass! I felt like the drive was gone and I may as well sell it since it hasn't seen use for the better part of a year, but later felt I'd seriously regret it. Sanding it was HELL. Must have invested 30 hours into that alone, but it feels more personal after doing all that crap; there's no way I can get rid of it! (also i found out after stripping the guitar that Jaguar Basses are no longer in production  )But I do actually love my basses. Losing one would feel very wrong.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 06:42
|
|
|
It's pretty fuckin' sweet. I'd love my P to have that colour.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 07:53
|
|
|
Achtane posted:(also i found out after stripping the guitar that Jaguar Basses are no longer in production Huh, still listed on Fender's site, but can't find one (save for the new Squier) on MF... Wonder what's up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 14:05
|
|
|
So, me being stupid + an allen wrench led to my truss rod possibly being stripped. Obviously if it is, the neck is a no-go (I can't even really play it as-is- over the summer the neck got a horrible bow in it). 1. What's the cheapest option for replacing it? Ebay? 2. It's a MIM jazz bass. Am I looking for another MIM neck specifically, or will any fender jazz neck fit?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 21:27
|
|
|
dissin department posted:So, me being stupid + an allen wrench led to my truss rod possibly being stripped. Obviously if it is, the neck is a no-go (I can't even really play it as-is- over the summer the neck got a horrible bow in it). More than likely you didn't strip the truss rod, just the truss-rod nut. Not an expensive fix. At least, it shouldn't be at any decent shop.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 21:53
|
|
|
After applying the sealer to the bare wood body, you're supposed to scuff-sand it or something. I have no loving idea how to do this. Not a clue. It turns out all splotchy and I can't even tell if I've sanded through to the wood or not, what the gently caress. I applied a second coat of sealer and I'm getting the same result while using 400-grit as I was told; I don't know if I should sand it all away and restart or what. I might just make it a solid color. I don't know. Also, I'm thinking about adding an Ampeg 4x10 to my Hartke 410...is there any reason this would be a bad idea?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 22:26
|
|
|
Scarf posted:More than likely you didn't strip the truss rod, just the truss-rod nut. Not an expensive fix. At least, it shouldn't be at any decent shop. Seriously? I didn't know it was a separate piece. For the record, it just 'slips' whenever I try to tighten or loosen it so I can't really adjust it at all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 22:52
|
|
|
dissin department posted:Seriously? I didn't know it was a separate piece. For the record, it just 'slips' whenever I try to tighten or loosen it so I can't really adjust it at all. If you have just the right size flat head screwdriver you can probably get it out, otherwise you'll need to hope the walls aren't rounded off completely and by putting some sideways pressure on the hex wrench you'll be able to work it out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 23:44
|
|
|
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1232 Unless you plan on doing it a lot, though, I'm sure it would be cheaper to just take it somewhere. But yeah, not the end of the world.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 23:50
|
|
|
Achtane posted:After applying the sealer to the bare wood body, you're supposed to scuff-sand it or something. I have no loving idea how to do this. Not a clue. It turns out all splotchy and I can't even tell if I've sanded through to the wood or not, what the gently caress. I applied a second coat of sealer and I'm getting the same result while using 400-grit as I was told; I don't know if I should sand it all away and restart or what. Basically, you want wet-dry sandpaper, not wood or metal sandpaper, and you want to be using a sanding block. Here's a quote I found a while back that explains this way better than I could: quote:There are special sandpapers for smoothing and finishing lacquers (which is different than using sandpaper to smooth out wood or metal). You can find them at StewMac or at an autoparts store. The grit can be extremely fine (or instance 1000 - 2000 grit). The paper is also designed to soak in water and not loose its cut. In the meantime, the water is used to wash away the abraded lacquer and hardening agents within the lacquer (that white hazy stuff you see in control cavities) while allowing you to reuse the sandpaper. If you just used the sandpaper dry, the little white clumps that build up would cause additional grooves in the finish. You want to avoid that. So, by soaking and rinsing these special sandpapers as you use them you will remove that white crud in the water bath and will be able to keep the finish smooth as you work.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 23:53
|
|
|
Narwhale posted:http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1232
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 00:23
|
|
|
Achtane posted:After applying the sealer to the bare wood body, you're supposed to scuff-sand it or something. I have no loving idea how to do this. Not a clue. It turns out all splotchy and I can't even tell if I've sanded through to the wood or not, what the gently caress. I applied a second coat of sealer and I'm getting the same result while using 400-grit as I was told; I don't know if I should sand it all away and restart or what. You want the sealer to look flat with no shiny spots. Hold it up and look at an angle with a strong light, the sun is great for this. 400 grit is fine, get a pink eraser and wrap the sandpaper around it. The yellow 3M paper that lowes/home depot sells is perfect for this too. It doesn't load up with the sanding dust like other cheaper papers do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 00:55
|
|
|
DrChu posted:This is only needed if the truss rod itself is broken, which it doesn't sound like it is in this case. Oh yeah, I just read where it said it fixed stripped truss rods, but watching the video they meant the threads instead of the nut itself. In any case, it's pretty neat and something I had no idea existed until just now!
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 01:25
|
|
|
Achtane posted:After applying the sealer to the bare wood body, you're supposed to scuff-sand it or something. I have no loving idea how to do this. Not a clue. It turns out all splotchy and I can't even tell if I've sanded through to the wood or not, what the gently caress. I applied a second coat of sealer and I'm getting the same result while using 400-grit as I was told; I don't know if I should sand it all away and restart or what. Yours looks mucho better. I don't think you should paint it a solid color at all. I'm sure from 3 feet or greater, you cannot see what you call imperfections.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 03:00
|
|
|
Thanks for the input. Actually, the paper I'm currently using is 400 3M wet/dry in its dry state. I might try a finer one wet, though...it was kind of clogging up on me no matter how much brushing/smacking I did. I have up to 1600. I use a sanding block for the flat sides, but usually wrap a piece around a dowel to hit curved parts. For really annoying, small spots I just wrap it around my finger.Schatten posted:[url]http://www.flickr.com/photos/whoapower/2071706329/sizes/z/in/set-72157604159710697/[/url The pic makes it look like an unusual shape, what kind of guitar is that? Also, the Warmoth is purty! I have a thing for trans finishes. Are the controls on that bass vol/vol/tone/tone? Uhh, to avoid clogging up this thread I'll just use this post as a progress thing and update it eventually. Here are a few pics to start:  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Humidity here in Virginia Beach is always hovering around 90% in the summer -- I guess you just have to deal with the risk of orange peel and blushing if you don't have a nice spraying area. It isn't perfect but I really don't care; it came out better than before, didn't bleed through and all I should have to do is hit it with some wet sandpaper to smooth it out. I'm happy with this.  Click here for the full 1024x1365 image. This is after the first coat of sand+seal. The flash makes it look kind of weird. It looked uniform with the naked eye.  Click here for the full 1024x1365 image. My old nemesis. I knew that I sanded the first coat a little too much, so I was hoping that maybe the second coat would even out my mistakes, but that just preserved the shiny areas such as on the sides. At this point the sealer is very uneven, so I think I'm going to sand it down to bare wood and start again using the wet paper and such. 08/26 edit Yeah, I think I messed up. This is after another coat of sealer, which I haven't sanded yet, but...  Click here for the full 1000x1333 image. So splotchy! I don't know if this is salvageable or if I'm going to have to sand back through the sealer and down to bare wood again, but if at all possible I'd like to avoid doing that because I'M TIRED OF SPENDING 3 HOURS AT A TIME SANDING. I'm okay with some imperfection and I know this isn't going to look perfect (that was a given from the 5-piece body), but I don't want it to look like a mess. Sarah Cenia fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Aug 26, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 04:23
|
|
|
So around 3ish months ago I bought an OLP Stingray, which I'm happy with, but I'm getting the feeling the strings are past their used by date (G is rusting fairly bad) so I'm thinking it's time for a refresh. I'm fairly confident when it comes to DIY stuff, but have never changed strings on a bass before. It currently holds tune well and there don't seem to be a lot of other issues with the bass, so will I have to mess around with the more complicated stuff (i.e bridge/truss rod)? Also suggestions for good all round/fuzzy rock and blues playing would be rad
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 12:59
|
|
|
Nah, changing strings is easy. The only thing I would recommend is changing one at a time, and by that I mean yes you're changing the whole set, but take one string off, replace it, then move on to the next as opposed to taking them all off at once.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2010 16:30
|
|
|
Fender has some pretty specific instructions on how to wind strings. I'd never read them before and just wound my strings in an approximation of what seemed right, but I'll probably start trying to do it properly. http://fender.com/support/bass_guitar_setup_guide.php
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2010 16:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 13:21 |
|
|
I've always been infatuated with the rick4003, but I've never even held one (closest carrier is a hour drive through the city...). Basically I'm wondering how it feels to use the instrument; how the size/weight compares to, say, a fender jazz? I'm not planning on getting one blind or anything, just day dreaming 
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2010 14:07
|
|
