|
Mutar posted:As I was replacing the rear brake pads last night I saw to my dismay that my rear swaybar was not, in fact, connected to the endlink. Lovely. Anyone have a recommendation for replacement endlinks for an 01 Legacy? Second, is it safe to drive in the current state? Third, is there anything else I should be doing while I'm at it replacing the endlinks? - Depends what you're looking for in the way of performance. If you're going to replace one without the other I'd stick to a stock end link. The stock design will likely give you the best mix of handling and comfort. - Its safe to drive but welcome to body roll country. Might make some nice clanking noises too. - If you're in replacing one you might as well do the other because its likely ready to go as well. You wont save any time by doing anything else at the same time. Also a tip for sway bar links. They will be completely rusted to hell and you don't need the old ones so don't be gentle with a can of oil and a wrench, its a waste of time. Go in there with a saw or air chisel and blow those lovely old links right off the sway bar.
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 02:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
I'm not sure the difference is that extreme. What I've read on other forums is that replacing the end links without replacing the sway bar does have measurable benefits with a minimum of new NVH, and aftermarket ones are probably cheaper than the Subaru OEM ones anyway. Replacement end links don't add very much NVH - it's not like on other cars where you end up getting this giant GOOSH GOOSH sound when you go over bumps. I'd still get both sway bars and endlinks together, just because you're down there already. I don't know who sells them for that era of Legacy, though - I can only find "modern" (2005+) Legacy endlinks on Touge Tuning and TiC.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 02:57
|
|
|
Mutar posted:As I was replacing the rear brake pads last night I saw to my dismay that my rear swaybar was not, in fact, connected to the endlink. Lovely. Anyone have a recommendation for replacement endlinks for an 01 Legacy? Second, is it safe to drive in the current state? Third, is there anything else I should be doing while I'm at it replacing the endlinks? pefectly safe to drive. STi rear endlinks will work, and I happen to have some whiteline spherical links that I'll sell to you cheap. I *think* the rear swaybars for an 05-09 legacy fit. In the front things are the same as almost every non-turbo impreza or legacy. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Aug 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 03:15
|
|
|
Tried the '05 GT 17" wheels today, they clear the '10 GT brakes just fine. Also had a lot of oil spilled on the skidplate beneath my turbo/exhaust manifolds. My engine bay smells lovely now. Did take a closer look at the piping for the turbo itself -- relatively simple but genius idea to place the turbo where they did. Wonder if the other EJ25s will get the same treatment at some point or if Subaru will finally go to direct injection one of these days.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 04:13
|
|
|
Kageneko posted:How do I datalog with my AP? Use electrical tape and secure the USB cable to the AP. Had to do the same thing with mine  .
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2010 22:06
|
|
|
Trip report! I went to a semi-local tuner to get my shift bushings installed, compression/leakdown test done, and my sparkplugs swapped. Things I discovered:
It was also nice hanging out with guys who work on cars all day because they want to, not because they have to like strictly-maintenance shops do. Also present was a basketcase 300ZX brought over from Japan that had every single piece of 90s JDM tuning bling installed back in the day. It looked like tens of thousands of dollars of mods, and then someone tore out the HKS computer system when it started to get old and replaced it with a stock one. With the modified injectors, it was running rich enough to shoot out basically solid black smoke to such a degree that you could easily count and identify the individual pulses. It had stuff like (broken) lambo doors and a ridiculous bodykit which was actually pretty well made and must have cost a fortune/been a boutique part back in Japan. Somehow it ended up here, where it was sold for cheap to the current owner, who wanted these guys to try and get it running. I wonder if there's a Carfax for Japan? Here's some pictures.  This was some part of the aforementioned 300ZX. Someone mentioned in passing it might be a turbo timer (and Google agrees), but it had a pause/play, stop and fast forward/reverse button on it. Everything on this car was basically that vintage, including a few devices with the old HKS logo on it.  This was in a nearby used car lot. The white Subaru is a 2001 2.5RS four-door with some kind of turbo swap. The blue Mitsubishi is a Ralliart (turbo) sedan - it's the first used one I've seen.  Across the street and down about a block is the local Subaru dealer. They just got their 2011 STIs in last night, and so I got to see this baby as well as a white one. I regret not getting pictures of the front - it looks super mean. 245 width tires! They only had 2010 hatchbacks, though. I also dunno what the yellow sticker means but both of them had one.  Jamal might like this one. It's some sort of crazy multiple-runner intake manifold for the EJ22(T). Apparently this was only found on some Malaysian(?) model of Subaru, of which several half cuts were purchased a few months ago. They're working on something with this, but they only alluded to it with maniacal laughter.  Up we go!  Believe it or not I have never seen the underside of my car. Sure, I jacked it up to change tires, but that doesn't compare to getting under it and really seeing how wimpy the swaybars are, or the swaybar bushings, or the subframe bushings. Why does Subaru have stupid little plastic doors in the skid plate? I'm missing one, and it only covers up some bolt on some heat shield, not even an oil filter or drain plug.  This is another customer's car. It's a hawkeye STI with a Cosworth intake manifold (hard to read the label from where I took the picture, but it's there), front mount intercooler, some enormous aftermarket radiator, about nine million pieces of underhood modifications (including a really huge FPR and unfortunately an SSQV blowoff valve, though hopefully it's tuned for). Bonus picture: this was at a local store.  
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Aug 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2010 04:08
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Wow, this looks SO MUCH BETTER than the 08-10 sedans (though they are merely WRXs of course). For once I think the latest gen looks good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2010 05:59
|
|
|
Ok, I need some advice. My fiance and I are going to look at a 2011 Outback 3.6R Limited on Monday. She's been pre-approved for 2.9% APR for 60 months. I believe the dealer is asking something like 32,500 for it. My questions are thus: What could we offer, as far as a lower price, that the dealer would end up taking? (The dealership is in Lafayette, IN. They also make these cars at the Subaru plant in Lafayette.) I don't know much if anything about the 3.6 boxer engine. Is it a good, solid engine? She won't drive stick so I can't get her to look at the XT. Is there anything else we should know? I know we should be prepared to walk away if the salesman is a dickbag. It sucks that we are driving 2 and a half hours to go look at this car. Neither one of us has ever bought a new car so I'm a bit nervous that I'm going to have the shadiest car salesman ever and he's going to try to jack us around. Help?
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 15:51
|
|
|
You should visit something like truecar.com, put in your numbers/options and at least get a reasonable idea of what you should be paying. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110575753225&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D1&category=31870 Or email those guys and see what they can do. sanchez fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 17:09
|
|
|
Huge_Midget posted:Ok, I need some advice. Invoice with no options is $29,484 - you should be targeting as close to this as possible (I just bought a 2010 STI Special edition for invoice+250 and did NOT pay for any of the options they had on the car). If they don't already know you're coming from 2.5 hours away, don't tell them. Do some research, know where others are in stock at other dealerships near you so that you can let them know you've got other options. Don't look excited, go with a number in mind and do not waver from that. If they're built locally I wonder if you can't talk them out of any odd fees that they tend to tack onto the sticker prices.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 17:19
|
|
|
Huge_Midget posted:Ok, I need some advice. I'm going to chime in and say don't buy from Rohrmans. I used to work there as a tech, and "shady business practices" doesn't quite cover the poo poo I saw there. I eventually quit due to poor customer service and extreme mis-management. My recommendation would be Tom Wood In Carmel. Talk to Mike Harris. If you would like more specific information regarding Rohrmans or anything else, just email me (username) at oldskule.com. The 3.6 engine really is a great engine. Very reliable. Runs on regular, unlike the old 3.0 liter. You wont get a discount on the shipping fees for the car unfortunately, as those are set by Subaru.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 17:38
|
|
|
slizan99 posted:I'm going to chime in and say don't buy from Rohrmans. I used to work there as a tech, and "shady business practices" doesn't quite cover the poo poo I saw there. I eventually quit due to poor customer service and extreme mis-management. My recommendation would be Tom Wood In Carmel. Talk to Mike Harris. If you would like more specific information regarding Rohrmans or anything else, just email me (username) at oldskule.com. Well if we do buy it from Rohrman's in Lafayette, that's all we'll be doing. We live in Fort Wayne and will be having all the service done here in Fort Wayne (which is also a Rohrman dealership unfortunately). I didn't consider Tom Wood, I'll check their inventory.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 18:42
|
|
|
So I got the CEL I mentioned in my previous post again today as soon as I turned my car on. Accessport v1 said it couldn't read any stored codes, and it wouldn't go away after an on/off cycle. Had to do an ECU reset before the light disappeared. Last time it fired I was in the left lane of a highway in fifth gear, maintaining a constant speed. The shop I was at yesterday couldn't read the codes either. This time it fired immediately after I turned the car on. It had been sitting dormant for maybe sixteen hours? Symptoms are flashing cruise light, solid check engine light. Cruise control is presumably disabled (I don't know how to use it). I'm on the Cobb OTS "Stage 1" map. It hasn't happened again today after driving it around for a few hours with some minor city driving and light acceleration. One thing that might be different between now as opposed to not getting codes previously is that there's currently a forest fire in an adjacent province and the sky is chock full of lovely particulate that's hard to breathe in. If I get it again, I might drop down to the stock map. If I get it again after that, would it be worthwhile taking it in to the dealer or are they only limited to scanning the same OBD-II codes AP does? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Aug 23, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2010 23:55
|
|
|
So after an ordeal in getting the borla hush... I finally have it installed. And it's fantastic. Truly it's name is an excellent way of describing the exhaust. It is hushed, but it has that boxer rumble that the wrx should have had from the factory.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 05:34
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:So after an ordeal in getting the borla hush... I finally have it installed. And it's fantastic. Truly it's name is an excellent way of describing the exhaust. It is hushed, but it has that boxer rumble that the wrx should have had from the factory. I welded up my own 3" turbo back with two cats and a Flowmaster 50 muffler and have the same experience. I really don't get why Subaru didn't just make such things out of the box. My home-brew is more quiet throughout the whole rev band than the factory system.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 06:36
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:So I got the CEL I mentioned in my previous post again today as soon as I turned my car on. Accessport v1 said it couldn't read any stored codes, and it wouldn't go away after an on/off cycle. Had to do an ECU reset before the light disappeared. I wonder if there is a separate cruise control computer with its own codes?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 09:07
|
|
|
CharlesM posted:I wonder if there is a separate cruise control computer with its own codes? A broken cruise control/idle motor might explain why I occasionally have throttle problems. I also can feel the lag in the power steering and other accessories. e: vvv The shop inspected the timing belt through the inspection cover while I was sitting and talking with them. I don't know if they checked the accessory tension; I'll see if I can look up how to do it. I know it's not missing any teeth since I've checked. The shop's other idea was that perhaps I have a bit of gunk in my throttle body, as my MAF was filthy when I cleaned it (including a dead mosquito falling out). Not sure how I can clean a throttle body without disassembling it; I guess I could give it a blast of upper engine cleaner/seafoam. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Aug 23, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 15:59
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Don't all Subaru error codes correlate with the cruise control being disabled? That was my idea too, that there was some kind of throttle controller that didn't work through OBD. You have checked the tension in your belts right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2010 16:33
|
|
|
We are now the proud owners of a 2011 Outback 3.6R Limited. It had 17 miles on it when we took it for a test drive, and decided to buy it. 4 hours later we walked out the door with it for a hair over 31,000. I was amazed at how painless the entire process was. The salesman wasn't pushy, he basically handed us the key and said have fun. The car is super nice and has a ton of fun bells and whistles. 2.9% for 63 months with no money down was awesome.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 14:24
|
|
|
I've noticed the display on my stereo/climate control in my 08 LGT has started to flicker a little bit. Tapping it with my finger seems to bring it back easily, but I'm wondering if there's not some way I can easily check to see if something is loose.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 15:55
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I've noticed the display on my stereo/climate control in my 08 LGT has started to flicker a little bit. Tapping it with my finger seems to bring it back easily, but I'm wondering if there's not some way I can easily check to see if something is loose. Also, I may have fixed some of my idle problems; the shop forgot to reconnect the electrical connector to the air pump while distracted by showing me how to reinstall the air pump (since I asked for advice before I install the brake master cylinder brace). I plugged it back in, restarted the car and it settled down to a nice even idle and a pretty smooth running. It still vibrates a lot between 700-900 rpm, though - is it possible my A/C pulley is bad? I was watching it while the A/C was kicking on and off and vibrating the car badly and it seemed like it "jumped" a little after it declutched. It's also making a faint wittering noise and giving an off-balance "kicking" feeling when I put my hand on top of the compressor. Even with the A/C off, it vibrates, but the belt is still driving the pulley when the A/C clutch is disengaged so I can imagine it being the cause of the problem especially under vacuum braking. The belt tension is fine but the A/C belt looks like it has a tiny bit of wear towards the front that isn't on the other belts. I'm thinking it may have gotten smacked in the accident and the belts replaced without inspecting the pulley. I'm going to try disconnecting it altogether and see if it takes care of the vibration. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Aug 24, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 16:04
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:What do you mean by "flicker?" Are there certain lines that have disappeared, or is it the whole screen? If it's certain lines I wonder if the ribbon cable to the display has gotten pinched somehow. The whole thing goes dead. Sound seems to be uninterupted (except for once, when it turned down to volume 1 on it's own) and AC stays on, but the display will be dead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 16:22
|
|
|
Hope I'm not butting in on the convo. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback and need a good way to strap my surfboard to the bars on the top. I used a ratcheted ribbon tie one time, but flapping from the wind while driving was really loud. Does anyone else here use their outback to transport a surfboard? What is a good solution?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 19:18
|
|
|
Homebrewism posted:Hope I'm not butting in on the convo. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback and need a good way to strap my surfboard to the bars on the top. I used a ratcheted ribbon tie one time, but flapping from the wind while driving was really loud. Does anyone else here use their outback to transport a surfboard? What is a good solution? Do you not have a roof rack? Ratcheting it down to that should be the best way to do it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 19:55
|
|
|
Jesus that STi sedan looks good. I just paid off my 09 too .
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 20:31
|
|
|
That STI is what has sold me on the Plasma Blue color for my next WRX. Now all I need is for a dealer to get a 2011 WRX Premium Plasma Blue hatch in stock and sell it to me for invoice.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 20:41
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Do you not have a roof rack? Ratcheting it down to that should be the best way to do it. I have the factory rack on the top. The problem was the excessive noise from the ties in the wind, no matter how I ratcheted it down. It was a flat rope, which picked up a lot of wind, I suppose a round cable would be better. I guess I was wondering if there was a particular product known to do the job well. I found the INNO board locker by loving googling it, but that was near $200, for something I am sure there is a cheaper solution. Homebrewism fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 24, 2010 |
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 21:01
|
|
|
Homebrewism posted:I have the factory rack on the top. The problem was the excessive noise from the ties in the wind, no matter how I ratcheted it down. It was a flat rope, which picked up a lot of wind, I suppose a round cable would be better. I guess I was wondering if there was a particular product known to do the job well. I found the INNO board locker by loving googling it, but that was near $200, for something I am sure there is a cheaper solution. Couldn't you just stick a towel or something under the ratchet strap to keep it from rattling as much?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 21:19
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Couldn't you just stick a towel or something under the ratchet strap to keep it from rattling as much? .... I'm going to have to try that. I feel like I did, but just had wind noise issues from the towel, but to be honest, I might not have really given it a go. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
 I pulled off the cigarette/ashtray/shifter bezel today to trim off the thin piece of plastic that separates the lighter from the ash tray. I don't smoke and want to keep my phone charger connected, yet be able to toss the cord in the ash tray and close the compartment when not in use. Anyway, I noticed I have a hole and a melt spot in my shifter boot. The PO was a smoker (hence the ashtray), so that's probably the cause. But someone please let me know if there's another potential cause that I should look out for! My question is: Can someone recommend something to patch it with? I don't really care about the look, as it's hidden when the boot is on the shifter, but I do want to keep it sealed and keep it from tearing any further. And ideas?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2010 23:51
|
|
|
Honestly that looks like it's not going anywhere to me. You could try some of those vinyl sticker/patch things if you feel like you need to do something about it. Probably a better fix would be to replace the shifter boot from a wrecker. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 00:06
|
|
|
So - thoughts? Edit: My STI post wingstration
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 00:46
|
|
|
A lot of people really like the 07 limited lip spoiler. But honestly I'm a big fan of the giant one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 01:06
|
|
|
I should add that I like the wing much better. I removed it because my car was keyed twice in a row and I have to imagine the wing was part of that. I need some cheering up that this wing is still okay! hah
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 01:26
|
|
|
We had a few of the 2011 STIs come to the West Coast Subaru Show last weekend. I think we had 3 of them? (one of them pretty modded... it was a shop car though).
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 01:36
|
|
|
I just got a 2010 Outback 2.5i this last weekend. It's the base model, as that was what I could find with a manual transmission. I'm going to add the Homelink rearview mirror, a trailer hitch, and the bumper protector. Any other items people consider must-haves? How well does the Media Hub work? I'm waffling between getting that or dumping the standard stereo for an aftermarket nav/bluetooth/everything model. I'm super happy with the car, though - I forgot how much I like driving stick. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 03:12
|
|
|
TeMpLaR posted:So - thoughts? Looks great IMO. I love the limited lip and I think it's a nice touch as opposed to going entirely wingless. Also nice is seeing it on a WRB STI as opposed to white/CGM. To report in to the Subaru SA crowd... those of you thinking of the Tsudo N1 for your 08+, it is indeed quite loud That said, I dropped a good chunk of weight over the stock STI quad tip and am enjoying the brash loudness.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 05:34
|
|
|
syphon posted:We had a few of the 2011 STIs come to the West Coast Subaru Show last weekend. I think we had 3 of them? (one of them pretty modded... it was a shop car though). The owner of the PBP works at the local Subaru dealership -- I ordered my 5-door STi through him a little over a month ago, eagerly awaiting my delivery. The white one belongs to a goob in the area.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 05:39
|
|
|
Homebrewism posted:Hope I'm not butting in on the convo. I have a 2005 Subaru Outback and need a good way to strap my surfboard to the bars on the top. I used a ratcheted ribbon tie one time, but flapping from the wind while driving was really loud. Does anyone else here use their outback to transport a surfboard? What is a good solution? I got one of these here in Oz, works great. I'd imagine they sell it in the States as well. http://www.thule.de/Thule/ProductPage____83256.aspx The tail end of the strap can be threaded back through the buckle, so it all lays flat without flapping. I just tie the remaining bit of the strap back on itself to prevent the last bit from blowing around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 06:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
thealphabetsez posted:The owner of the PBP works at the local Subaru dealership -- I ordered my 5-door STi through him a little over a month ago, eagerly awaiting my delivery. The white one belongs to a goob in the area. Shawn and Mario, they're good buddies and both generally good dudes. Pics and videos of both cars up here - http://subarushawn.com/ Dick Hannah meetup and Cobb meetup this weekend for you Portland-ish folks. Who's going?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2010 07:32
|
|