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RandomEffects posted:My nephew has been making his own shirts using iron-ons and i wanted to get him set up with a silk screen printing kit as he is really into it. preferably something with clear instructions rather than just here are all the pieces. How rich are you and what does affordable mean? Screenprinting stuff isn't expensive but it's not a coloring book and a box of crayons, either. You need some decent equipment to get good results or you're going to be frustrated because you think you're doing it wrong.
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Aug 11, 2010 23:56
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Not Memorable posted:How rich are you and what does affordable mean? Screenprinting stuff isn't expensive but it's not a coloring book and a box of crayons, either. You need some decent equipment to get good results or you're going to be frustrated because you think you're doing it wrong. Not rich looking for something around $75 or cheaper(?). I saw the Provo kit at Michael's for $299.99 and the Speedball kit for around $50-$99. Since i know squat about the process i don't know if the Speedball kit is crap or a good value, or if the Provo is massively overpriced or what i should expect for quality materials. RandomEffects fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Aug 12, 2010 03:15
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RandomEffects posted:Not rich looking for something around $75 or cheaper(?). I saw the Provo kit at Michael's for $299.99 and the Speedball kit for around $50-$99. Since i know squat about the process i don't know if the Speedball kit is crap or a good value, or if the Provo is massively overpriced or what i should expect for quality materials. There are a million ways to screen print. When most people say screenprinting, however, they mean photographic screenprinting, meaning that you use light to expose photo-sensitive emulsion to make your design. 1. Draw/paint/print design on transparency paper. 2. Coat screen in emulsion. 3. place design between screen and light. 4. Bake it. 5. Wash it out, the parts that were blocked go away. 6. Pull ink through the parts that washed out. That kit you linked has no light. Speedball inks are good, I personally wouldn't get anything cheaper than speedball. We have a Yudu press (http://www.amazon.com/Provo-Craft-Novelty-yudu-62-5000/dp/B0025T6V5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1281631680&sr=1-1) and a traditional system and I like both just fine. The Yudu system is great because it makes the parts most people screw up really easy, so that you build confidence and get it right and understand some of the other quirks pretty quickly. Even if you move on to using other methods, it still has a nice exposure unit and air-drying bay you can use. Edit: If you have a good art store in your town (Dick Blick is fine but local is better) just go and ask them lots of questions and see what they can put together for you. If the kid is really into it you could also potentially look into classes at an art center or something where he can USE pro stuff before you have to buy it for him and see if he even likes it.
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Aug 12, 2010 17:50
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you can find screen printing poo poo really cheap on craigslist if you live in any kind of a city, usually
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Aug 12, 2010 21:18
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When I was younger i used to draw for hours everyday (I started when i was 5 and stopped doing it at 15). Recently I have wanted to get back to drawing again but I just find my skills very lacking. Basically i can copy any picture very well but when i try to draw something on my own without any reference it just looks like crap. I have read some drawing books but they never seemed to have that much useful input, basically it is more like "make some guidelines for drawing and then fill in the details" without really much practical tips. The style i prefer drawing in is more of a cartoony style but still somewhat realistic. (Like Disney) And as said, I can copy that style pretty well as long as I have a reference, but if I try coming up with something on my own it just looks crap. So the main questions are: 1.Is there any good resources (books or whatever) for picking up some more advanced drawing tips. 2.How do you get good at coming up with stuff on your own. (That looks good) 3.Before i used a pencil to draw with, but i have recently aquired a tablet and wants to try drawing with it. Any recommandations on good software. 4.How do you get good at the cartoony-realistic style? (I guess practing drawing realistic first and then trying to simplify that?)
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Aug 14, 2010 15:30
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RandomEffects posted:My nephew has been making his own shirts using iron-ons and i wanted to get him set up with a silk screen printing kit as he is really into it. preferably something with clear instructions rather than just here are all the pieces. Here's a super basic kit that won't break the bank: Buy two or three screens, a big bottle of blocking fluid, a big brush, a small brush, some ink, a squeegee and a few dozen cardboard boxes to cut up and practice on. All he has to do is trace something on the screen (lightly) using a pencil. Then just color in the areas he doesn't want to print with the blocking fluid using the brushes. Let dry, put on a piece of paper, put ink on the bottom or top or sides, squeegee down/across then pull up and go on to the next one. When he's done all he has to do is take it outside and spray the blocking fluid out with a hose. It's a simple setup but he'll be churning out shirts with "gently caress" across them in about an hour. A super, super basic kit is buying one of those hoops that old people use to crochet, putting the screen in there and then blocking out the design with white glue.
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Aug 16, 2010 16:30
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HKBGUTT posted:1.Is there any good resources (books or whatever) for picking up some more advanced drawing tips. 1. "The Vilppu Drawing Manual" by Glenn Vilppu. He's an instructor at CalArts (where they train Disney animators) and his book is the best I've seen for learning to draw without a reference. He also has videos which I've heard are good, but the book is all you need if you really practice what's in it. "Fun With a Pencil" by Andrew Loomis is also good but not as complete or organized. 2. To get good at coming up with varied ideas when you draw without a reference you need to get a "reference library" of images in your head. The best way to do that is by drawing WITH a reference. The more you draw different trees from life the better you'll be at coming up with believable imaginary trees because you'll understand how trees are put together. 3. Photoshop and Painter are the standards, and are great, but expensive. Try GIMP (Gnu Image Manipulation Program), which is free, open source, and works on any OS. It's similar to Photoshop but last time I checked it doesn't have CMYK support so it's not great for printing. If you really get into tablet drawing you'll probably want to get Photoshop. 4. Pretty much right on. Don't be one of those people who "only want to draw cartoons" because you'll never get really good at cartooning if you don't understand all aspects of drawing. I guarantee there has never, ever been a Disney animator who could only draw cartoons. When you're learning to work without a reference it's best to start simple and work up to more complex as you learn. Maybe draw a simple box figure in all kinds of positions and then draw the figure more and more realistic as you learn anatomy, etc. Hope this helps!
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Aug 16, 2010 20:16
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Is there a tutorial someplace that can show me how to make text mimic a segmented display in GIMP? Here's the effect I was going for:
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Aug 17, 2010 06:22
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http://www.dafont.com/ds-digital.font google search for "digital" font brings up a lot of digital fonts like that, some of them are even free!
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Aug 17, 2010 07:10
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I'm using exactly that one actually. I was more referring to the way the text glows, should have been more specific.
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Aug 17, 2010 16:35
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As usual, apologies if this has already been asked. I'm going to be selling prints of my digital art (including this guy) at an open house art show this weekend. But this is the first time that I've ever done such a thing. What's the best way to go about doing so? I'm planning on getting them professionally printed, but what sort of paper quality/weight is "best" for prints? And what's typically a reasonable asking price for something along these lines?
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Aug 17, 2010 18:35
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MiketheGreat posted:As usual, apologies if this has already been asked. This is such a can of worms that I don't even want to start offering advice, other than the following: -Find a local printshop. Kinko's is fine in a pinch but they don't have very many options and they do have a lot of color shift issues. A local shop should be able to really walk you through the whole process. Giclee (pron. zhe-CLAY) is considered the highest quality art print from digital work, but there are a lot of disagreements on what the standards should be for a giclee print. -Physically touch the papers. Which ones do you like? Pick two or three and have some small prints done. Compare color, crispness and cost. Does the color match your original image? Are the blacks deep enough? Are the lines crisp or do they bleed? Remember: glossy shows color better than matte, but I think some glossys look cheap. -Make sure it's archival. How? Ask the dudes: "Is this archival? For how long?" They might have special instructions regarding coatings to prevent fade, or not. Again, this really all is up to your own preferences. Sure, it might be archival to 150+ years, but if it costs $50/print that's not really worth it to me. But it might be to you. -Moneywise, you can probably find anything from ridiculously cheap to ridiculously expensive. And usually, there's a correlation between price and quality. However, as the price approaches ridiculous, the difference in quality becomes negligible. You're going to have to decide for yourself what level of quality is acceptable.
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Aug 17, 2010 20:29
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MiketheGreat posted:As usual, apologies if this has already been asked. Asking prices vary significantly on the run, for one thing. If you are getting them printed, and plan on printing however many you can sell, you do not have a print, but in fact are selling a poster. People do not expect to pay much money for posters, nor should they. If you're only going to print 50 at a certain size, sign and number them, and stand by your word to only make that many with that set of colors in that size ever again, you can ask more and people will enjoy spending more for them. I'm more used to judging screenprints than digital prints but I see most from "unknown" artists with decent quality selling for anywhere from $20 to $100 depending on run size, design, print size, cool factor, etc.
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Aug 17, 2010 20:44
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I'm not sure if its a little question, but I'm sure its stupid anyway. I do a lot of sketching and I've played around a lot in stuff like Hammer Editor for the source engine (a map editor for Valve source games) but I really want to get into 3d modeling, as a hobby. How would I start? I've thought about purchasing some "3d design for dummy" books or something along that line, but would they really help me? And what should I look out for and what software/companies should I trust? There certainly is a lot out there and its all really confusing as to what I'd like to play around in. Also played in Sculptris and I'm sure its nothing like real 3d molding... but it was pretty fun and easy to design a fairly convincing human face in it. Anything like that?
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Aug 17, 2010 22:03
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Theres a ton of awesome graphic designers up in here. Does anyone have a lead on when Adobe or Apple are releasing tools to make awesome interactive magazines on the ipad for regular people? I've read where Wired hooked up with Adobe to build their app, but I couldn't find info on how they actually did it.
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Aug 19, 2010 14:57
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Theres a ton of awesome graphic designers up in here. Does anyone have a lead on when Adobe or Apple are releasing tools to make awesome interactive magazines on the ipad for regular people? I've read where Wired hooked up with Adobe to build their app, but I couldn't find info on how they actually did it. It's an iOS app. It's not some special "digital magazine" format. Until Apple changes policies (unlikely), you can't even use third party tools to develop for the iOS App Store. You can, however, do whatever you want on a mobile site and use some of the same functionality and design cues that iPad apps have. That's just HTML 5. Apple has no incentive to release tools to make it "easy" to poo poo out apps and put them in the store because then their store will suck as much as the Android Marketplace as people who know nothing about UX or development will drop lots of garbage in the store.
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Aug 19, 2010 16:40
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Kraustofski posted:I'm not sure if its a little question, but I'm sure its stupid anyway. I was so intimidated by 3d modelling that I didn't start learning until I went to uni and took a 3d class. We spent a year just making low poly props (200 triangle limit) and vehicles (2000) and I got the hang of the basics pretty fast. The software (3ds Max) came with enough help files and tutorials that I don't think I needed the class at all. The internet is full of great info too. A book would probably help, but I don't know of any, and you'd have to make sure it was up to date. If you're a student, I think Autodesk are giving 1yr free trials of pretty much all of its software (3dsMax, Mudbox, Maya, etc) -> http://students.autodesk.com/ If you liked Sculptris, give Mudbox a go. It's nice and easy to get the hang of and pretty powerful to boot. You'll need to use something like Max or Maya alongside Mudbox in order to get the most out of it, but you can mess around with the sphere/basic head/dinosaur meshes it comes with and make some cool stuff. 
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Aug 19, 2010 20:08
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I draw mostly cartoonish stuff. I got used to drawing so that I'm doing my motions with my fingers and sometimes a bit with my wrist, but mostly the fingers. This way, I manage to make my characters pretty organic and their faces and bodies expressive. But as a consequence, everything I draw is pretty small. I've heard that it's better to use your whole arm and your wrist, but it kind of feels unnatural to me and I can't draw cool stuff. Is drawing with only your fingers bad form and should I just tough it out, or should I stick to what I'm doing?
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Aug 19, 2010 22:03
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Bonus posted:I draw mostly cartoonish stuff. I got used to drawing so that I'm doing my motions with my fingers and sometimes a bit with my wrist, but mostly the fingers. This way, I manage to make my characters pretty organic and their faces and bodies expressive. But as a consequence, everything I draw is pretty small. I've heard that it's better to use your whole arm and your wrist, but it kind of feels unnatural to me and I can't draw cool stuff. Is drawing with only your fingers bad form and should I just tough it out, or should I stick to what I'm doing? I dunno about arms and wrists, but get some big paper and draw to fill the pages for a while. Taking breaks to draw large (even if you intend to continue working small) is a good thing to do. You make a lot of mistakes you don't always notice while working small.
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Aug 19, 2010 22:24
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I don't even know if this post belongs here. I just came back from a custom framing place where I wanted to frame a $40 poster I bought recently and with a metal frame plus a black on white double mats they quoted me $467. I pretty much walked out immediately (for a few other reasons besides just the ridiculous price). Are there any online resources for framing? Places I could buy custom mats, special sizes of museum glass, and custom frames? I do plan to go to a few other framing places in town, independent shops that have people working there that seem to be awake and can help me pick out some things, but I don't know if it would be feasible let along cheaper to try and put together some frames piecemeal. And I'm not going to go to a Joanne's or Michael's because I honestly don't trust them with my stuff.
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Aug 20, 2010 01:03
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Sirotan posted:I don't even know if this post belongs here. I just came back from a custom framing place where I wanted to frame a $40 poster I bought recently and with a metal frame plus a black on white double mats they quoted me $467. I pretty much walked out immediately (for a few other reasons besides just the ridiculous price). Edit: given what you are asking for (all the most expensive options) that price is actually not out of the range of possibility for a frame shop. Yeah, it's high but you are asking for all the most expensive (and in my opinion, least value added) options for framing artwork. A double mat is nice, but seriously, for a poster? I think its probably overkill if you're that price concious. If you have specific questions I can answer them. Buying custom mats is a good deal in bulk but individual is pricey. I have used matcutter.com (no affiliation but their prices are reasonable and their quality is excellent) as well as cut my own for awhile. My suggestion is to go to local goodwill / salvation army and find something there. I have scored tons of good frames that way that required minimal cleaning and repair to be almost new. Most wood frames look great with a coat of spray paint/varnish and a clear coat. Nicer stainless frames that are are more rugged I've picked up for pennies on the dollar. Ace hardware can cut custom glass for you. Museum grade glass is high quality but the price is extravagant in my mind for the minimal value it adds. But if you gotta, you can get it at places like hobby lobby or a local glass store will probably be able to special order it. I would rather buy custom lighting or mounting equipment than museum glass. Most damage to a piece will be through inproper mounting techniques (using lovely tapes or petroleum based products in general: "acid free" does not mean archival) as well as environmental damage (humidity, mould.) If you want your print to last, store it sandwiched between two pieces of acid free paper in a low humidity area, in the dark. Bonus posted:I draw mostly cartoonish stuff. I got used to drawing so that I'm doing my motions with my fingers and sometimes a bit with my wrist, but mostly the fingers. This way, I manage to make my characters pretty organic and their faces and bodies expressive. But as a consequence, everything I draw is pretty small. I've heard that it's better to use your whole arm and your wrist, but it kind of feels unnatural to me and I can't draw cool stuff. Is drawing with only your fingers bad form and should I just tough it out, or should I stick to what I'm doing? There are a lot of good reasons to draw from your arm instead of your wrist/fingers. For me the biggest one is line quality and consistency - I find it much easier to train large muscle groups than small ones for drawing, and it's easier to get bigger > smaller than smaller > bigger in drawing scale. Another big point is that if you have any ambitions to be a serious artist you need to take care of the health of your joints. Do you hear about artists getting carpal tunnel or RSI in their shoulders? No, because it's a bigass loving joint that is made for excessive use. On the other hand you hear about RSI in hands and wrists all the time. This isn't a concern when you're 18 but if you do it for 20 years from age 12 (video games) to age 32 you start noticing it. Best to get into good habits from the start, since your drawing will be better anyway. Beat. fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Aug 20, 2010 |
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Aug 20, 2010 01:48
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Beat. posted:Edit: given what you are asking for (all the most expensive options) that price is actually not out of the range of possibility for a frame shop. Yeah, it's high but you are asking for all the most expensive (and in my opinion, least value added) options for framing artwork. A double mat is nice, but seriously, for a poster? I think its probably overkill if you're that price concious. I wasn't really asking for it. I didn't go in with any plan or idea on how I wanted to frame it, its just what the women there plopped down and suggested. Its a numbered/signed art print so its not just some lovely printed movie poster, I'd like it to look halfway decent in a frame. quote:Ace hardware can cut custom glass for you. Museum grade glass is high quality but the price is extravagant in my mind for the minimal value it adds. But if you gotta, you can get it at places like hobby lobby or a local glass store will probably be able to special order it. I would rather buy custom lighting or mounting equipment than museum glass. I guess 'museum glass' was just me throwing out a generic term. Is paying a little more for something that will protect it from UV not worth it? I'm sure it won't be hung on a wall in the dark the entire time so I'd like to protect it from fading as much as I can. quote:Most damage to a piece will be through inproper mounting techniques (using lovely tapes or petroleum based products in general: "acid free" does not mean archival) as well as environmental damage (humidity, mould.) If you want your print to last, store it sandwiched between two pieces of acid free paper in a low humidity area, in the dark. So I should ask for archival paper/mats/mounting instead of 'acid free'?
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Aug 20, 2010 01:56
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One of the biggest things that bumps up the price of framing is the size of the glass. The glass usually comes in set sizes, like 18x24 and 24x36, and if you are even one inch over 18x24, you have to pay for the full price of a sheet the next size up. It could be something as simple as one of the mats bumping the size of the piece up into the next price range. Ask them about the pricing on the glass, as that's the most expensive part. As long as you don't hang the poster anywhere that receives direct sunlight, you should be fine without the museum glass. Also, in general a double mat is excessive for just about anything I can think of. Go with one mat, in a color that complements the piece, or no mat and a simple frame. Just curious, what exactly are you getting framed, and how big is it? It sounds more to me like the lady in the frame shop picked up on the fact that you didn't have a plan, and just started throwing out the most expensive stuff they had to see what stuck, not necessarily because it was a good fit for your poster. Go in with a plan next time and see how much it is. Keep in mind that a decent framing job, even without all the expensive options, can run around 200 bucks.
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Aug 20, 2010 06:43
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gmc9987 posted:One of the biggest things that bumps up the price of framing is the size of the glass. The glass usually comes in set sizes, like 18x24 and 24x36, and if you are even one inch over 18x24, you have to pay for the full price of a sheet the next size up. It could be something as simple as one of the mats bumping the size of the piece up into the next price range. Ask them about the pricing on the glass, as that's the most expensive part. As long as you don't hang the poster anywhere that receives direct sunlight, you should be fine without the museum glass. Well, when I went in I certainly had a budget in my mind of $100-150, what I didn't have a plan about was wood versus metal frame, what color mat(s) I wanted, etc. The woman in the poster shop acted like she barely had a pulse when I walked in. Didn't even greet me, didn't even try to assist me picking out some frame/mat color combos. Even without the outrageous price the entire experience was a disaster. I tried to go to another store nearby but by then it was already 7pmish and they were closed. Anyway here is what I am having framed, a 18x24 numbered poster print by Olly Moss from a recent touring film series:  Click here for the full 660x880 image. Yup I'm a huge nerd but I think its amazing. You can see the rest of the series here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3335685 Thanks for the info about the glass, I'll be sure to ask about that. I'm probably going to hit up another place or two tonight to see what kind of pricing they can give me.
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Aug 20, 2010 12:04
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Sirotan posted:I guess 'museum glass' was just me throwing out a generic term. Is paying a little more for something that will protect it from UV not worth it? I'm sure it won't be hung on a wall in the dark the entire time so I'd like to protect it from fading as much as I can. I think you should read what I wrote again. The difference in cost is not "a little more." The main difference between museum quality glass and regular glass is clarity. UV is a concern for perserving artwork but on the list of general concerns it is not the highest one, especially for something that's indoors in a climate controlled environment like your house, and doubly so because you probably will not have it up for 50 years straight. quote:So I should ask for archival paper/mats/mounting instead of 'acid free'? Read up about mounting techniques, the mats are not going to be an issue, I don't think I have ever seen a brand sold that isn't acid free. Of course I don't shop at places like Michaels or whatever. The concern is with materials and techniques used to mount the piece to the mats ("dry mounting" is what you are going for.)
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Aug 20, 2010 20:24
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just bought a new pad, went with the bamboo.. starting to get back into drawing again, what medium is this, what would you call this. I just want to know like the name of his style I guess, or something similar, I mainly like the vibrant colors.  thanks,
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Aug 21, 2010 00:29
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John Baizley Ink and watercolor his core style is basically figurative work that looks very art nouveau
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Aug 21, 2010 07:01
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Beat. posted:
thanks, looked into more of his stuff, pretty cool. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Aug 21, 2010 19:55
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Let's say I want a website that will support my writing. Since I'm just getting serious (again) about it, this is probably putting the cart before the horse (like miles before), but mainly my goal is to set-up a vanity email address that I can use for submissions and correspondence. Commence slippery slope. Since I have to register the domain anyway, I figure there should be at least some content. Since I'll have a little content, then I need a basic site design, and since I need a basic site design, I'll need some artwork to make it look somewhat attractive. What I'd like to do is to contact some artists and ask if they'd be willing to let me use 1300x600 sections of their work for page headers in exchange for mention on the site and links. Since this is a starting out thing, I'm not sure if this is poor form or not. Should I be offering to pay instead? Should I not bother with that and commission some banners instead? Should I put this in SA Mart or will I get laughed out of the place? Am I over-thinking this? Is a tomato a vegetable or a fruit? EDIT: Also, is a vanity domain really pretentious? I have a relatively common name, so every possible permutation of my name @gmail is already taken. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Aug 22, 2010 |
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Aug 22, 2010 19:22
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Almost everyone I know in the creative realm who does something solo / professional has a website, to answer that question. No it's not uncommon but it's important that it look good and be updated once in awhile. I personally think that something memorable is better than "your name.com" but people do both and it is not a big deal either way. As far as asking artists to use their work, why don't you commission some cheap art through SA mart or whatever and say, "I really like artists x, y, z and the themes I'm going for are a, b, c come up with something that fits that?" or write to the artists and ask them how much something small would be. I don't know exactly what angle you're going for but generally speaking, asking artists for free work is bad form.
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Aug 22, 2010 20:12
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Beat. posted:Almost everyone I know in the creative realm who does something solo / professional has a website, to answer that question. No it's not uncommon but it's important that it look good and be updated once in awhile. I personally think that something memorable is better than "your name.com" but people do both and it is not a big deal either way. Okay, thanks. I was afraid it might be, but I just wanted to check. The angle was just a "hey, that looks neat, it would be great if I could use a section of that."
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Aug 23, 2010 02:10
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I'm hoping to con my girlfriend into drawing some super-basic cartoon-like illustrations for a blog. She's not an advanced artist or anything, but I'm a fan of her pencil doodles and would like to get them onto a computer, cleaned up, and colored in. I got her a Wacom Bamboo tablet awhile ago, but she doesn't really like working with it -- she prefers pencil on paper. I'm wondering what the best way is to have her make a drawing on paper and for me to scan it in and get it looking nice as a PNG or GIF. Maybe tracing is where I need to start, although when I googled "trace pencil drawing" the instructions I found sounded pretty labor intensive. We'd need to pick up a scanner, so a cost-effective recommendation for that would be appreciated. I've got Photoshop, but maybe this is the kind of thing that would be better-suited for Adobe Ilustrator? Thanks in advance for any help, I'm sure I'm wording this like a retard and/or making dumb assumptions.
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Aug 25, 2010 13:11
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kalibar posted:I'm hoping to con my girlfriend into drawing some super-basic cartoon-like illustrations for a blog. She's not an advanced artist or anything, but I'm a fan of her pencil doodles and would like to get them onto a computer, cleaned up, and colored in. I got her a Wacom Bamboo tablet awhile ago, but she doesn't really like working with it -- she prefers pencil on paper. Scan the drawing and use Level/Curve adjustments in Photoshop to remove the paper texture and pen "dirt" to give you a clean black on white image. Here's a pretty good beginning tutorial. If you want to get incredibly OCD about it, you could port the cleaned up lineart to Illustrator and then play around with either tracing it with the Pen or Autotrace tool, but that might be overkill for something as small as a blog image, especially if she doesn't like drawing digitally.
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Aug 25, 2010 14:30
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I'm looking for a good set of writing exercises/assigntments/challenges... something that will allow me to decide what I want to write about... I have a lot of ideas about a lot of disparate topics (mostly creative nonfiction in nature) I guess that doesn't make sense, so let me elaborate. So I recently found while working at a research lab that I started out with no clue what I wanted to research (other than the broad topic of "security". So I was given some projects to work on, and by the end of the summer I had a very good idea what I wanted to do. If I had sat around all day trying to think of research projects, that would never have happened, it was only when handed an assignment and told "Do this" that I was able to realize what I would rather work on. Anyone have any ideas? I'm basically looking for short to medium length prompts... "Write 1000 words on X", some sort of exercise to get me in the habit of writing something, anything.
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Aug 28, 2010 08:38
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I'm looking to get into inking and using markers. I've got a little project that involves me hanging out skeezy bars and drawing patrons and I figure markers will be easy to tote around with me. I was going to go with Prisma color markers but there appears to be dozens of colors. I need some help selecting a basic palette to get started working with markers. It seems like the basic process involves using pencil, cleaning up with an eraser and then outlining with a black marker before starting in with the colors. Does that sound about right?
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Aug 31, 2010 16:49
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chairfight posted:I'm looking to get into inking and using markers. I've got a little project that involves me hanging out skeezy bars and drawing patrons and I figure markers will be easy to tote around with me. I was going to go with Prisma color markers but there appears to be dozens of colors. I need some help selecting a basic palette to get started working with markers. That's what I do, but if you're feeling especially bold, I've seen some pretty amazing stuff with artists going straight to inks. I haven't delved into color markers yet, but I've been doing some pretty fun stuff with gray tones. Personally, I think it's more fun to force yourself into a very limited palette, but to each their own and such. I use Copic markers. They're 8 bucks a pop around these parts, but compared to lesser markers, I find they give the cleanest, most consistent stroke, and produce sexy results. /insert spiel about how skills are more important than tools here
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Sep 1, 2010 00:59
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For the easy of carrying, a limited palette would be perfect. You need a few different values (darks to lights), a few cool colors (blue, violet undertones) and a few warms (yellow, red undertones). So: -Black -Warm grey, ~ 50% -Cool grey, ~ 50% -Warm grey, ~<20% -Cool grey, ~<20% (Black is 100%, the white of the paper is 0%, so if they aren't labelled that way just eyeball it. You want a medium and a light grey in each warmth). As for technique, start with pencil if you want, but you'll get less stiff results if you train yourself to just jump straight in with markers. A good way to ease into it is just to use the pencil to dot out proportions, literally put only a dot at the chin, top of the head, corner of each eye, etc. Drawing an entire pencil drawing and then tracing it with markers takes forever and looks stiff.  So here are dots...  And here is the drawing (I used Sketchbook Pro, but you get the idea)
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Sep 1, 2010 01:40
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vonnegutt posted:As for technique, start with pencil if you want, but you'll get less stiff results if you train yourself to just jump straight in with markers. A good way to ease into it is just to use the pencil to dot out proportions, literally put only a dot at the chin, top of the head, corner of each eye, etc. Drawing an entire pencil drawing and then tracing it with markers takes forever and looks stiff. Jesus, I never even considered this. For someone who frequently loses track of the big picture and meticulously draws little details during the initial sketch, this is going to help me a lot. And now a question that'll make me look even stupider. After wanting one for years, I finally got my hands on a drafting table. I love finally being able to draw on a raised, slanted surface. But while that's good enough for single sheets, it's kind of a pain in the rear end for sketchbooks or anything heavier/thicker than cardstock. Apart from just buying a real-deal support-thingie, does anyone have any clever DIY tricks for making sure your sketchbook doesn't slide off the board when drawing on an angle?
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Sep 1, 2010 01:52
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MiketheGreat posted:Jesus, I never even considered this. For someone who frequently loses track of the big picture and meticulously draws little details during the initial sketch, this is going to help me a lot. get a piece of wood that is 1/4 inch thick, long as your drafting table, and just a bit wider than your table. Glue it so you have a "lip". Or stick rubber thingys on the back of your sketchbook. A rubber cutting mat on the table can also work.
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Sep 1, 2010 01:53
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If there's any way someone could ignore the larger faults of this (unless it's an obvious and easy fix), and address a specific question I'd REALLY appreciate it. It's a rush job I'm doing for free and I need to upload to modernpostcard within a couple hours. Basically I spent some time on this battle axe so I'm having a hard time letting it go. When I started making a shadow for it, it was pretty apparent that the design was better with JUST the shadow but I'm hoping people disagree? Thanks in advance. It's full bleed btw, that margin isn't really there.   
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Sep 2, 2010 19:53
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