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check the pickup first.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 02:56 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 08:43 |
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My buddy just bought his first STI and within 6 hours of ownership the pickup tube snapped and he spun a bearing. lovely deal. Point is though, it happens. If you're considering buying one it may be worth doing and save you a lot of money. Anyone know how Cobb is with Accessport warranties? Specifically what happens if it's out of warranty? Mine died today and won't power back up and I'm uncertain if it's still under warranty.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 04:43 |
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allonblack posted:My buddy just bought his first STI and within 6 hours of ownership the pickup tube snapped and he spun a bearing. lovely deal. Point is though, it happens. If you're considering buying one it may be worth doing and save you a lot of money. Call them up. I bought a new in box, but 3rd party access port for my LGT and ran into problems with the ECU in my car. Granted it was a newer CAN-BUS model AP, but they helped me out when they had no obligation to.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 05:20 |
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Given how simplistic the guts of the damned thing is, it shouldn't be a big deal for them to deal with.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 08:09 |
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DAM's going from 16 to 14 to 5 to 15 to 16 and back again. F*** rod knock.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 16:22 |
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There's a 93 Impreza being parted out that I'm going to look at tonight. It's got a 2.2 engine swap, that I might consider swapping into my car (Also a 93 Impreza). How do I ID the engine and which EJ22s are most desired?
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 22:48 |
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quadpus posted:There's a 93 Impreza being parted out that I'm going to look at tonight. It's got a 2.2 engine swap, that I might consider swapping into my car (Also a 93 Impreza). How do I ID the engine and which EJ22s are most desired? The block should be stamped EJ22 above the crank shaft.
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# ? Aug 30, 2010 22:50 |
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Got my car tuned. While we were at it, we bumped up the idle revs to get around the problem at ~760rpm. Discovered in the course of testing that there's a similar vibration at ~3000 - 3100rpm - pretty close to a multiple - which makes me think it's some kind of harmonic resonance. The guy who tuned it suggested it might be something unbalanced when the aftermarket clutch was installed, which seems possible to me. He also said it could be a busted/poorly installed motor mount from the accident repair or something funky in the suspension. The motor doesn't vibrate around in the engine bay when the vibration is occurring, so I'm pretty sure it's not motor mounts unless I'm misinterpreting how they should work. I guess I'll either pop out the clutch myself or have someone do it next season to make sure it was properly balanced - I wonder if it's possible that they installed the clutch and didn't bother regrinding/replacing the flywheel while it was out. On the plus side, it's no longer my "slow" EJ25. Compared to the Cobb map, this thing now provides enough thrust in third gear to force me into my seat. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 31, 2010 |
# ? Aug 31, 2010 00:16 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:On the plus side, it's no longer my "slow" EJ25. Compared to the Cobb map, this thing now provides enough thrust in third gear to force me into my seat. Wewt. So I take it the car took well to the tune then? What all did they change compared to the stock cobb map.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 05:19 |
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All this talk about EJ25 pickup tube failure is making me a lil' nervous. I've been planning on putting a boost gauge in a corner pod, but I'm assuming an oil pressure gauge would give me more of a heads up on an imminent failure, right? Maybe go Boost / Oil Pressure / Volt in a WRXtra center pod?
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 06:06 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:All this talk about EJ25 pickup tube failure is making me a lil' nervous. I've been planning on putting a boost gauge in a corner pod, but I'm assuming an oil pressure gauge would give me more of a heads up on an imminent failure, right? volt meter is pretty worthless. Coolant temp would be a much better option since the stock gauge just says cold, good, and too hot.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 06:11 |
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You'd do coolant temp over oil temp? Volt meter seems like it'd be a good thing to have in the winter. WI winter is hard on electricals.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 06:32 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:You'd do coolant temp over oil temp? Volt meter will only tell you if your alternator has failed. It's either going to be ~13-14v while the alternator is healthy or <12v if the alternator has failed. I'd do oil temp, oil pressure and exhaust temp in a center pod if I got one at all.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 06:46 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm assuming an oil pressure gauge would give me more of a heads up on an imminent failure, right? This raises a race car question (cough jamal cough). Is it desirable to wire in an ignition circuit relay such that when a given sensor flips a warning light -- oil pressure in this case -- the ignition is automatically interrupted, shutting down the car and preventing further damage? Like every other race car, my CRX has a mechanical oil pressure gauge plumbed in, but the only time I've actively used it during a race was during an intense, trading-positions-twice-a-lap battle on a very hot day. My oil temp had pegged on the gauge somewhere over 320 degrees F, and I was watching the oil pressure to ensure it didn't fall below some safe level. Edit to answer questions: Honda CRX, D16A6 running Redline 20W50 and no engine damage, May race in AZ, air temp 113. Four cars under the class record on the first lap, I didn't win. Other than this extremely limited use case, is there any reason an ignition interrupt relay wouldn't be a better, foolproof way of preventing engine damage due to oil starvation? Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Aug 31, 2010 |
# ? Aug 31, 2010 07:12 |
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I wouldn't want ignition cut, but it's possible to wire sensor inputs to aftermarket ecus to trip a limp mode or rev limiter etc. I really wish that we had done so with the coolant temp on our evo because it overheated and destroyed the head because the driver wasn't paying attention to the gauges. On the cutout side, I was riding with my friend in his time attack sti during a track day, and right in the middle of a huge powerslide we experienced fuel starvation. We actually came pretty close to hitting a wall because the car abruptly snapped around. As for the gauges, I would want coolant temp first and then oil pressure. Oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp are all pretty closely related, so if there's a problem you would notice something on the two gauges you do have. If the alternator dies the battery light will come on, and that's not really critical anyway.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 07:34 |
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I agree on the Oil Pressure, Coolant temp and EGT. Coolant temp will tell you if you're about to warp your heads. Oil pressure will tell you if you're about to spin a bearing. And EGT will tell you if you're starting to have fuel problems (run too lean and the temps go up). I've been kicking around the idea for my STi, but haven't found a good way to put in gauges without a ricetacular look.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 08:02 |
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Quick question about tuning. I have an '07 Legacy GT that is stock with the extended warranty. Now seeing as I don't want to learn how to repair a car with my daily driver I'd like to keep the warranty intact but add a little more fun to the car if possible. It seems like most people recommend a custom tune over the Cobb AccessPort. The advantage with the AccessPort is that I can flash back to stock before taking it to the dealer. Can you do something similar with a custom tune? I imagine it might involve a laptop and some sort of data cable which I don't mind dealing with.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 14:19 |
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Amandyke posted:Wewt. So I take it the car took well to the tune then? What all did they change compared to the stock cobb map. He changed primarily timing (and probably AVCS, though I didn't ask), we did some pulls to test and tune, and I also ended up with an alternate boost curve (holds boost longer instead of peaking and giving up). He also did a lot of work in changing the timing in the low-vacuum/near-idle region in order to improve driveability in traffic, which is very welcome. Still not sure about the vibrations in my driveline, the engine isn't vibrating very much at all in the bay when this is going on but the rest of the car is. He told me that if I need to bring it into the dealership I can give him a call and he'll pop by and reflash it to stock. I assume most tuners would be the same way.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 14:52 |
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FormulaXFD posted:I've been kicking around the idea for my STi, but haven't found a good way to put in gauges without a ricetacular look. I really like the WRXtra pod, they just modify the stock single-din hood for 52mm gauges.
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# ? Aug 31, 2010 15:50 |
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I've got a 97 Legacy Outback, and have a strange bucking at low speeds and going up hills at low speeds. It feels like something in the driveline just has a ton of slack. I'm pretty certain it's not the engine cutting out, as the engine revs smoothly and doesn't give me any crap otherwise. I replaced the motor mounts and the trans mount just for good measure, but there was no change. Anyone have any idea what, if anything, could wear in the drive-line that could cause this kind of behavior? Jared592 fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Sep 1, 2010 |
# ? Sep 1, 2010 03:20 |
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I really like the WRXtra pod, they just modify the stock single-din hood for 52mm gauges. I kind of dig that. I'd have to see it in person though. Any of you Portland OR area people want the leftovers of my 05 STi's exhaust? DP and center piece in decent condition if anyone wants it.
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# ? Sep 1, 2010 05:48 |
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This is basic stuff but I figured out the headlamp issue on the 99 Forester if it helps anyone else. The bulb was probably original and the lamp contacts basically freeze up in the socket requiring that you first remove the whole rubber cover, pull the entire socket and bulb up still attached together, so you can then pry the bulb free with a screwdriver. One contact broke off and remained in the socket in the attempt. Basically it can be impossible to remove the socket before removing the rubber/lamp part so expect to pull the whole thing to pry bulb and socket apart.
Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Sep 1, 2010 |
# ? Sep 1, 2010 16:05 |
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FormulaXFD posted:I kind of dig that. I'd have to see it in person though. Forgive my ignorance, but would the DP fit an '05 Legacy, or are the engines incompatible...?
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# ? Sep 1, 2010 17:48 |
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legacy downpipe is a few inches longer. It will attach to the turbo but not the rest of the exhaust.
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# ? Sep 1, 2010 23:14 |
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Quick question for anyone that might know. What would be the ramifications of plugging the PCV hole on the block? Not like removing the valve, and just running a hose, but like welding in a plug to the hole.
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# ? Sep 1, 2010 23:39 |
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jamal posted:legacy downpipe is a few inches longer. It will attach to the turbo but not the rest of the exhaust. I could always extend it, the question is if there is any gain or benefit by using the 05 STi's DP.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 00:34 |
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FormulaXFD posted:I could always extend it, the question is if there is any gain or benefit by using the 05 STi's DP. A fine point -- given my very limited knowledge of the LGT vs STI, I was under the impression that the DP and the tune were the only items necessary for ~320 hp. The DP-back exhaust and UP are said to flow relatively well, so I simply assumed the biggest difference between the two motors was the DP. Please note that I'm an utter noob to both turbo cars and Subarus, so I will reiterate my request to forgive my ignorance in the matter.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 00:41 |
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Well, my 98 Legacy Wagon poo poo the bed this past weekend when I was heading home. I managed to snag a 2003 Outback from a local auction for $5000 that is in excellent condition. Has anyone ever seen any Outbacks modded for trail or rally? Just curious.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 04:16 |
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Rasta_Al posted:Well, my 98 Legacy Wagon poo poo the bed this past weekend when I was heading home. I managed to snag a 2003 Outback from a local auction for $5000 that is in excellent condition. Several actually.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 07:12 |
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Rasta_Al posted:Well, my 98 Legacy Wagon poo poo the bed this past weekend when I was heading home. I managed to snag a 2003 Outback from a local auction for $5000 that is in excellent condition. A rally prepped Outback? Please do it, that would rock
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 09:16 |
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There's plenty of Outbacks with lift kits installed - I think a goon was even trying to sell his in the AI marketplace a few months ago. I'd like to see an Outback sedan get modified - I love how those things look. I wonder if these are Canada-only?
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 14:50 |
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snadsnad posted:Quick question about tuning. I have an '07 Legacy GT that is stock with the extended warranty. Now seeing as I don't want to learn how to repair a car with my daily driver I'd like to keep the warranty intact but add a little more fun to the car if possible. Lots of tuners use an AP for loading thier tunes anyhow, so you can do this pretty easily.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 16:41 |
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I'm eyeballing a Used 09 WRX that's sitting at a local dealership with ~12k miles on it. I'm thinking of trying to talk em down to 20k-21k (sticker price is 23.9 rofl) for it since there's a crack in the bottom of the front bumper from scraping a curb and some other minor imperfections. Does anyone know if 04 STI brembos will fit an 09' WRX? I think it should fit but wondered if anyone knew for sure. Can anyone offer cautionary advice with regards to things I should be looking for? Carfax shows religious oil changes (3 in 12k) and some other maintenance. I went over the whole engine and took it for a long drive, seemed very solid. I've been shopping for a new car but really can't/don't want to go much over 23k OTD price and this could be my ticket back into a WRX. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Sep 2, 2010 |
# ? Sep 2, 2010 19:57 |
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I would just be wary that it could fall victim to the rod knock issue. There were 09s affected and with only 12k on this car it may not have manifested itself yet. I would just make sure to get in writing that they will honor an engine replacement if it were to happen. They should anyways since its still under warranty, but they may try to wiggle some bullshit reason since it's used.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 20:41 |
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bull3964 posted:I would just be wary that it could fall victim to the rod knock issue. I briefly heard about this but I found some information about the Early 08 production models being affected but does it encompass all cars in that model year? The car was built in May/June of 2009 if that makes a difference. Edit: I see some references to stopping sales of the 09 for a while but I'm not seeing really anything subaru did to remedy this issue. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 2, 2010 |
# ? Sep 2, 2010 21:06 |
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The unofficial word I believe was that casting sand wasn't being flushed from the block completely when they were made leading to contamination and failure later. I'm not 100% sure on that though.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 22:08 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:There's plenty of Outbacks with lift kits installed - I think a goon was even trying to sell his in the AI marketplace a few months ago. We have plenty of these outback sedans in Maine. They're PERFECT and meet all my wants, except they only made them with auto gearboxes. You can also get the H6 in them I think. If my RS becomes too much of a basket case I'd probably still pick one up.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 22:49 |
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Slow is Fast posted:We have plenty of these outback sedans in Maine. They're PERFECT and meet all my wants, except they only made them with auto gearboxes. You can also get the H6 in them I think. If my RS becomes too much of a basket case I'd probably still pick one up. Then the H6 blows your transmission, but for a shining moment you had an awesome car.
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# ? Sep 2, 2010 23:04 |
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Bob Log posted:I'm thinking of trying to talk em down to 20k-21k (sticker price is 23.9 rofl) What the hell? New 2010s are 24.9. 2011s will probably be as well.
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# ? Sep 3, 2010 00:23 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 08:43 |
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Kageneko posted:What the hell? New 2010s are 24.9. 2011s will probably be as well. KBB is crazy wacky on the price of those things. Claiming $27k is a good retail value for a used 2009. MORE than MSRP? wtf? Nada seems more realistic, if optimistic: http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2009/Subaru/Impreza-4-Cyl-/Sedan-4D-WRX-AWD/Standard-Equipment
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# ? Sep 3, 2010 00:29 |