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Tamir Lenk posted:Depends. High initiative mounted armies tend to get pretty open tables by choosing Steppes when they can. How does the terrain work? Do you roll to see what kind of terrain you'll be playing on? FoG always looked really loving rad to me.
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Aug 24, 2010 20:54
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My friend likes to bring lots of armor in his FoW infantry list (3 Tigers and 4 STUGs). I've reworked my list to counter this, switching from inf. to mech. inf.: HQ (of course) 2x Mech. Inf. Co. +2 Platoons +1 Kommissar +2 HMGs 1x Mech. Inf. Co. +1 Platoon +1 Kommissar +1 HMG 5x M4A2 4x ISU-122 I think that should cover it, and I still have 35 teams of Rifle/MG EDIT: Also, trying to just use things that I have, although I had to buy the ISU-122s.
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Aug 25, 2010 12:51
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S.J. posted:How does the terrain work? Do you roll to see what kind of terrain you'll be playing on? FoG always looked really loving rad to me. Each army has a couple of terrain types to choose from (e.g., Agricultural, Hilly, Steppes). The winner of the initiative roll gets to pick which type will be used from either army's choices. The terrain type dictates what terrain types are available and 2 mandatory pieces (e.g., Hilly must include 2 hill pieces). Then the players pick a mandatory and 2-4 other pieces from the list for that type (there is a chart for this in the back of the book). The players alternate placing mandatory pieces, then the remaining pieces. The placing player dices for where the piece goes, the other player rolls to modify or possibly remove the piece. The order of the placement factors in quite a bit, because terrain cannot be placed within 4" of another piece (but it can be moved within 4"). So if the placement dice keep calling for the same area, later pieces may not be able to go down.
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Aug 26, 2010 02:01
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I imagine cavalry-heavy armies have a much higher initiative, then. That sounds really cool.
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Aug 26, 2010 02:12
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While it seems like a good idea in practice light horse armies will have the choice of terrain making it open as much as possible so they can slowly take apart foot based armies. Without terrain limiting their movement. I think FOG is a great set of rules let down by lack of variety in games you can play due to how the game is setup and terrain placement.
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Aug 26, 2010 12:24
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LintMan posted:While it seems like a good idea in practice light horse armies will have the choice of terrain making it open as much as possible so they can slowly take apart foot based armies. Without terrain limiting their movement. That can be mitigated a bit by using tables inspired by or directly representing historical battles, or simply having a third person who sets up the terrain ahead. But it is a problem with pretty much all wargames, terrain will always favour one type of army. Some DBA armies are completely impossible to win with unless you have tons of terrain, some are just as difficult to win with if there are a lot of terrain.
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Aug 26, 2010 12:55
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Does it help if you stick to armies that are in the same time period? Or is it not a big deal having two armies fight each other that were otherwise separated by 500 years?
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Aug 26, 2010 18:14
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S.J. posted:I imagine cavalry-heavy armies have a much higher initiative, then. That sounds really cool. There is an initiative bonus based on how many stands of Cv/LH/LCh are included in the army. So having more mounted does increase your chances of favorable terrain.
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Aug 26, 2010 18:37
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S.J. posted:Does it help if you stick to armies that are in the same time period? Or is it not a big deal having two armies fight each other that were otherwise separated by 500 years? Usually, yes. For most wargames I think it is easiest and most balanced to field the armies against an historical enemy. Romans vs. Gauls are usually a balanced fight with each sides having distinct strenghts and weaknesses. So do Crusader armies against Saracens. But fielding a slowly marching wall of Greek hoplites against an all cavalry steppe army is a bit more difficult, as the armies are not really made for an exciting battle. That doesn't make fighting across time periods impossible in most systems, just that historical pairings often make for the most interesting and cinematic battles.
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Aug 27, 2010 08:11
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I went and picked up Blitzkrieg today. I haven't had a chance to read it yet, but I am looking forward to it.
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Aug 27, 2010 08:21
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lilljonas posted:Usually, yes. For most wargames I think it is easiest and most balanced to field the armies against an historical enemy. Romans vs. Gauls are usually a balanced fight with each sides having distinct strenghts and weaknesses. So do Crusader armies against Saracens. But fielding a slowly marching wall of Greek hoplites against an all cavalry steppe army is a bit more difficult, as the armies are not really made for an exciting battle. Well, I meant for FoG in particular. I've paged through the rules once or twice at work but didn't get much out of it other than the basics of the unit stats.
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Aug 28, 2010 03:41
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Here's some pics of the latest project for you guys its a Panther Ausf D from Dragon, its a pretty sexy kit and has taken me quite a while to get together. I'm also adding zimmerit to it with modelling putty, hopefully it should come up nice with some paint work.   
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Aug 28, 2010 09:58
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Alright, I got 3 M3 75mm GMCs coming in and then my 2k mid war Rangers will be done: Company HQ Darby 2 full Ranger companies with mortars 1 full ranger company without mortars Full Sherman Platoon Chemical Mortar Platoon 105 battery 75mm GMC Platoon with AA .50s That should be 2k on the dot
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Aug 29, 2010 22:44
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Wait... what? You get Ranger COMPANIES?
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Aug 29, 2010 23:24
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Arquinsiel posted:Wait... what? You get Ranger COMPANIES? Yeah, you buy ranger companies because they're a more elite unit. It's the same with british Commandos. Each company is 1 or 2 platoons. Each platoon is 6 rifle/mg teams + platoon HQ with the option to buy a mortar. Though each platoon operates independently, ranger comapnies are deployed all at the same time. Cool thing about rangers though, is that only the actual Ranger Platoons count for whether or not I have to take a company command test. The support platoons I buy don't count as being destroyed or being on the table for a company morale check. So while you have to still deal with all of my support I'll never even have to think about running away until you also kill 4 platoons of dudes.
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Aug 29, 2010 23:36
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Lord Commissar posted:Anyone ever try paper ships? I know the post was from like a month ago but this is awesome and thank you.
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Aug 30, 2010 00:47
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S.J. posted:Yeah, you buy ranger companies because they're a more elite unit. It's the same with british Commandos. Each company is 1 or 2 platoons. Each platoon is 6 rifle/mg teams + platoon HQ with the option to buy a mortar. Though each platoon operates independently, ranger comapnies are deployed all at the same time.
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Aug 30, 2010 02:53
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Arquinsiel posted:That's still an obscene amount of dude on the table. IIRC a Commando army would be drat expensive with each platoon being 330 points basic, so I'm guessing Rangers are similar. Pretty similar, but fearless trained instead of vets. They obviously aren't as good in combat as commandos (like anyone loving is), but they can Truscot Trot through difficult going and they all have mountaineers. A full company with the two mortars is 320 points.
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Aug 30, 2010 03:57
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I'm loving incorrigible. Heady mix of approaching birthday and Colours (yet another awesome British war-game show) has literally forced me inti starting a 3rd period for playing Black Powder with. Looks like I'm going to be throwing some money the Perrys way again- going to treat myself to some late 19th century British to either do the Sudan or 2nd Afghan War. Tempted to go for the Afghans just so I can do a Dr Watson figure. Jinjin Bemar fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 15:09
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This is a noble aim, I approve of it.
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Aug 31, 2010 20:00
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So I ended up with 60 Wargames Factory Celt Warriors. What should I do with them?
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Aug 31, 2010 23:19
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FirstCongoWar posted:So I ended up with 60 Wargames Factory Celt Warriors. Assemble them. Paint them. Game with them.
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Sep 1, 2010 00:19
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FirstCongoWar posted:So I ended up with 60 Wargames Factory Celt Warriors. Make Legion from Castlevania in 28mm scale, only hairier and covered in warpaint
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Sep 1, 2010 02:32
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Have the best Skavenslaves.
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Sep 1, 2010 05:07
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Took my Dominate Romans (Late Imperials) out for a spin yesterday. Romans Deployed:  Legions:  Equites Sagittarii:  Auxilia Palatina:  Equites:  I stopped taking pictures because my Ostrogothic opponent beat me like clumsy whore.
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Sep 7, 2010 16:53
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Tamir Lenk posted:Took my Dominate Romans (Late Imperials) out for a spin yesterday. Awesome, the tall bases makes them look like classy old timey board game pieces. So, there's a fairly big gaming convention in Southern Sweden at the end of summer (SydCon) that sadly haven't had that many miniature games except for fantasy/sci-fi lately. Me and some people started talking about doing something for next year, and I thought of expanding my 6mm samurai armies to something big: a 4-6 player participation game recreating some major Japanese battle, hopefully with a miniature count in the thousands (I'm thinking around a 1:20 representation of a major battle, haven't chosen one yet though). Now, Sweden doesn't really have a big participation game culture like the UK, and I have never played any myself actually. What are the do's and don'ts? How do you keep something that big going, and what are your best and worst experiences of participation games? My second question is what system to use. I'm basing them on 40mm bases, since I play DBA and FoG. However, I also have Killer Katanas 2. I assume that I want something relatively simple so that people will be able to get into the game without struggling too much with the system, especially if they haven't played historicals before. I also want the thing to be over in an evening, even if the base count might be in the hundreds. This is partly just an excuse to spend the next year painting lots and lots and lots of samurai and make a ton of terrain, but it would be nice if people actually enjoyed it as well...
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Sep 7, 2010 19:41
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Bloody wargame shows. Looks like I'm doing the Sudan in 28mm for Black Powder thanks to the Perrys new book and the lovely diorama by had set up of a Brtish square under attack by fuzzy wuzzies. Not even finished my french for napoleonics yet. 
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Sep 11, 2010 11:53
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Flames of War: Blitzkrieg British Armoured regiment Blitzkrieg is the first book in Battlefronts Early war series of books for their Flames of War rules set. It covers the invasion of Poland and France (1939-1940) and features the list for Poland, Britain, France and Germany. I will focus on the British Armoured regiment and give a bit of a review. British tank theory: The British had two schools of thought when it came to tank design. They developed a cruiser tank concept which they saw battles decided by squadrons of fast moving tanks penetrating the enemies lines and exploiting. The British started the war with the A9, A10, A13 series of tanks and as the war progressed improving on the designs with the Crusader, Cromwell and Comet tanks. The other concept was an infantry support tank designed to aid the infantry in breaking through then enemy strong points. They started the war with an old A11 Matilda infantry tank design named after cartoon duck due to the slow waddling way it moved. In time for the invasion of France the newer A12 Matilda tank was slowly replacing the A11. As the war progressed the A12 design was upgraded to the Matilda II then replaced with the Valentine and finally ending the war with the Churchill infantry tank. 1st Armoured Division: Britain’s Cruiser tanks were grouped into 1st Armoured division and did not fight with the rest of the BEF in Belgium but with the French. They were equipped with a mix of Cruiser and light tank designs. Vickers Mk VI:  A good solid light tank design. Lightly armoured and armed it was used with the Armoured regiments and with the divisional cavalry units. There were two main variants used by the british the Mk VIB equipped with 0.5” machine gun or the Mk VIC which was equipped with 15mm cannon. Both versions also had a coaxial machine gun. In FOW: The Vickers is actually a very good tank in the early war period the 0.5” MG and the 15mm both had a firepower of 5+ and lack the No HE rule which makes the 2pdr useless against gun teams and infantry. Armour is 1 all around which in Late war standards is really bad but in early war it provides good protection against MG fire and a slight chance against light AT weapons. A9:   The weaker of the tanks available to the armoured regiments. Equipped with 2pdr gun and a coaxial machine gun it packs a good punch. The A9 is unique in the British forces as it has two machine gun turrets mounted in front of the main gun turret. Many were converted to the close support variant which featured a 3.7” howitzer instead of the 2pdr. In typical British fashion the howitzer was only equipped with smoke rounds and lacked an AT or a HE round. In FOW: The A9 armed with the 2pdr is only available in the regimental HQ. The A9 CS are available as part of the Command platoons and provides a valuable smoke option for the army. Armour wise they only have a front of 1, top of 1 and a poor side armour of 0. 0 side is really bad because armour that low is vulnerable to rifle fire. The 2pdr is a great gun at 24” range with an AT value of 7 and a firepower of 4+ its only downside is the No HE which makes it useless against Infantry, Gun and unarmoured vehicle teams. A10:  This is an up armoured version of the A9 design. The 2 turrets were removed and the extra armour put too much strain on the engine decreasing the speed. Armed with a 2pdr gun and a coaxial machine gun. In FOW: The A10 is rated as a slow tank and only moves 8” instead of 12” as the rest of the force as it is only available to the Company command team it’s hard to get him where it needs to be quickly. However it is the most armoured tank available to the Armoured Regiment with a front of 2, side of 2 and top of 1. A13:   This is the British tank of the line and is the best example of the cruiser tank concept available to the forces in France. It makes use of the Christie suspension allowing it to move at high speed cross country. It is armed with the excellent 2pdr gun with a coaxial Machine. The A13 Mk II is the same basic design but with extra armour added to the turret. In FOW: The A13 and A13 Mk II is a great tank and equips the cruiser tank platoons of the armoured regiment. It is a fast tank so can double move 32” instead of 24” allowing you to cover huge distances quickly. However it also has the unreliable rule which is a 1 in 6 chance of breaking down when you do double. Armour wise the A13 is poor with front of 1, side of 0 and top of 1. Rifle fire can hurt your side armour. The A13 Mk II improves this increasing the armour on the front to 2 and side to 1. Flames of war list Discussion: The Armoured Regiment is a very good list but limited in choice. The Regimental HQ is like Company HQ from other lists. The Company command team has to be an A10 which is a good tank but slow so can struggle to keep up with the rest of the force. The 2IC team is Vickers Mk VI but can be upgraded to A9 or A10 tank. I personally think the A9 is the way to go as the extra 2pdr armed tank in an independent team is very useful. You also have an option for a HQ support team in another cruiser tank and another Vickers tank. I would use these as points tweak units so tank whatever you have left in points. The combat platoons which you only have to take one but can have up to 3 of is an Armoured company. Unlike other company organisational lists each platoon including the HQ platoon is treated during the game as a separate platoon. They are considered one choice for deployment and reserves. The HQ platoon option is the most varied including the option to not take one. This is where you can take the A9 CS tanks. Remember that you cannot smoke bombard with a single tank you need at least two to fire a template. The first style in the organisation for the HQ is with A13 tanks and A9 CS with the option to replace the A9 CS with Vickers VIC tanks. You have options to take 1 or 2 A14 and 1 or 2 A9 CS tanks. Your other choice is how many Cruiser and light tank platoons to take. The Cruiser platoon is equipped with A13 tanks while the light tank platoon is equipped with Vickers Mk VIB tanks. You must have at least 1 Cruiser and 1 Light tank platoon and can have up to 2 of each. You can upgrade any A13 to A13 Mk II and any Vickers Mk VIB to a C. A13 Mk II’s has better armour and the Vickers Mk VIC has a better AT value. The options are very limited in support platoons for the list which means your tanks will be the core of your force. You can choose a recce carrier or scout car platoon. A British or French infantry platoon and French air interception. Your force is Confident Trained so you are getting hit on a roll of 3+ and you pass morale rolls 50% of the time. Your main special rule is the Tally Ho! Rule which allows you to fire full rate of fire on the move at targets closer than 16” with your 2pdr. To word this another way your tanks have twice the amount of firepower on the move than any other nation. Your Cruisers are there to fight tanks which they do well at while your light tanks take out gun teams with their 5+ firepower guns. Here is a sample 1500pt list I am taking to the next 3 Early war tournaments: HQ, A10, 2IC A9 Command platoon 2xA13, 2xA9 CS Cruiser platoon 3xA13 Light platoon 3xVickers VIB Command platoon 2xA13 Mk II, 2xVickers VIC Cruiser platoon 3xA13 Mk II Light platoon 3xVickers VIC Division Cavalry carrier platoon British Rifle platoon French sporadic air interception Waffle images is playing up so the pics are on my photobucket account, will move upload them when its going fine again.
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Sep 12, 2010 11:25
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Anyone play any Early War yet? Curious how it is.
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Sep 22, 2010 02:21
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I've had one game and am planning to play another one tomorrow. It is fun and this might sound strange, but the battle that was played actually felt more "historical" than some of the late war games I've played. I played a French Compangie de Combat vs a Mittlere Panzerkompanie (both tank companies). The French are pretty much the perfect WWI army, but it is WWII and nobody has told them to get with the times therefore such luxuries such as fighting a mobile battle with my tanks wasn't possible. Coming from the late war mindset where this is a big part of the game; this threw off my tactics a bit and probably was one of the reasons I lost (Instead of bunkering up with my tanks and guns I tried to best the Germans at their own game). Tomorrow I will be giving the British and their Land Battleships (similar to what Lintman posted) a spin. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 25, 2010 09:07
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How does that work, mechanically? Are you really limited in the number of French tanks you can take? Char B1s are amazing and I imagine if they were controlled by a player with an awareness of the French failings would be able to use them really well. edit: Only really tangentially related but I read an account of IS3 tanks being deployed in Manchuria against the Japanese. IS-3s versus Type 97s doesn't sound like a fun thing to wargame. Karandras fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 25, 2010 11:32
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Karandras posted:How does that work, mechanically? Are you really limited in the number of French tanks you can take? Char B1s are amazing and I imagine if they were controlled by a player with an awareness of the French failings would be able to use them really well. Most of the French tanks (Char B1s included) have either Awkward layout or One-man turret, this basically boils down to "Cannot move and shoot". The Char B1s are great tanks and can take and deal a lot of damage but not being able to fight on the move really limits what you can do with them. Now that I know what they can do though, next time I should be able to use them better.
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Sep 26, 2010 00:48
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No Pun Intended just soundly thrashed me with a horde of zippy little British tanks. I helped, of course - I took nowhere near enough light AT (Flak 88s are really overkill against anything except a Matilda) and deployed really stupidly - but No Pun Intended's played the Armoured Regiment just right - take lots of tanks and pour them all over enemy resistance.
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Sep 26, 2010 06:34
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Everything free hand painted. 15mm. This guy is amazing. http://www.tagmata.it/communal_italian.htm 
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Sep 26, 2010 11:23
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That's 15mm? Does the dude have microscopic eye implants and those bionic fingers from Ghost in the Shell that the typist had? That's loving crazy.
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Sep 26, 2010 14:04
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lilljonas posted:Everything free hand painted. 15mm. This guy is amazing. That's just nuts. Absolutely ridiculous. I was so happy that my mongols were finished, and then you had to post that... Anyway, my mongols are finished!  Click here for the full 1200x379 image. Ok, so the paintjob isn't exactly mind-blowing, but good enough for me. They're an Ilkhanid army (IV/46) for DBA in 15mm. They can also be fielded as Mongol Conquest and Later Nomadic Mongols. With another unit of Cav, I'll be able to field them as Golden Horde as well. I still have a couple of stands of vassal troops to do, but they can wait. I really need to paint some Orcs for the oath thread. Models are Essex, except one Cv/Kn stand of Alain Touller Figs. Modelwise, this army is obviously meant to depict an early Genghis Khan before european influence changed the appearance and composition of the mongols: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGmiG3HEM9I#t=01m17s
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Sep 26, 2010 15:39
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I splashed out today and got myself BRABO5: British Armoured Regiment for EW. Now I have 22 tanks to put together. 
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Oct 1, 2010 08:15
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I am getting paid for the first time in many a long year (gently caress YOU COLLEGE, DONE WITH THAT poo poo!) so I am considering buying myself some Britannia UK 16th Air Assault Brigade for Ambush Alley. Does anyone who plays this know what I'd need to get started?
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Oct 1, 2010 18:08
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The new 15mm Iroquois from Khurasan look pretty pimping and I kinda want a small group of them. http://theminiaturespage.com/news/795749/
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Oct 7, 2010 20:26
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Why are they wearing samurai armor?
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Oct 7, 2010 20:46
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