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Sushi in Yiddish posted:I think I can top that. A friend of mine gave me a negative anti-dust brush in a very thick box. Those are staticmaster brushes, and it's not plutonium, but polonium, which is a completely different element. I have one, they are still sold and work pretty well.
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Sep 1, 2010 16:00
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killabyte posted:Those are staticmaster brushes, and it's not plutonium, but polonium, which is a completely different element. I have one, they are still sold and work pretty well.
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Sep 2, 2010 16:45
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Went the beach today, time to get up in the loft for some developing. First time I have shot neopan at 400 since I bought it a few months ago, will post my results.
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Sep 2, 2010 19:54
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fronkpies posted:Went the beach today, time to get up in the loft for some developing. Is there any reason you prefer Neopan over TMax or Delta? Seems like either of those would have more availability and developer options.
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Sep 2, 2010 20:00
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McMadCow posted:Is there any reason you prefer Neopan over TMax or Delta? Seems like either of those would have more availability and developer options. This is actually the first time I've bought neopan, and even then it was because I got a pretty good deal on it. I usually shoot with tri-x, And I think that's what I will be going back to once this batch is used up.
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Sep 2, 2010 20:33
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fronkpies posted:This is actually the first time I've bought neopan, and even then it was because I got a pretty good deal on it. I usually shoot with tri-x, And I think that's what I will be going back to once this batch is used up. FYI, I'm pretty sure Neopan is a tabular grain film, which makes it more comparable to T-Max or Delta, which is why I asked about those. It's not a substitute for Tri-X.
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Sep 2, 2010 20:41
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Sorry if it's been asked before but I leave soon and still have ~2000 posts to go. How hosed will my film be if it goes through an airport xray machine? It'll be in my carry on bag and I'll ask them to hand check it but I'm not sure how pleased they'll be about that in Vietnam. There's conflicting reports all over the place, has anyone had any first hand experience? I'm taking HP5+, Portra 400 and Velvia 100. I normally push HP5 to 1600, and I'm worried about that and the Portra. Most of what I've read says that says the problem is with ISO400+ film and stuff that's underexposed.
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Sep 3, 2010 05:50
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Stumbletron posted:Sorry if it's been asked before but I leave soon and still have ~2000 posts to go. Put it through, it will be fine. I used to be a stickler for hand checking but it is pretty much a waste of time. I wouldn't send it through the xray for 50 consecutive passes. Somewhere on Kodak's website there is a whitepaper about this that can put your mind at ease if you are really worried.
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Sep 3, 2010 06:01
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Stumbletron posted:Sorry if it's been asked before but I leave soon and still have ~2000 posts to go. Yeah, I thought after going to Europe and having them refuse to hand scan my film like 5 times I would be screwed (shooting Tri-X at 3200 and 6400), but it looks fine to me. Honestly, the ridiculous grain I got from pushing to those speeds outweighs anything the X-ray scanners could have done, haha. The scanners mostly say your film will be fine if it's 800 speed or less - Just once through and you should be fine.
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Sep 3, 2010 06:19
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Good to hear  I'm not much of a worrier, but it's nice to know that the HP5 won't be horribly deformed when I get around to developing it.
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Sep 3, 2010 06:41
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Any truth to Kodak Extar being close to the color and handling of Kodachrome (for a color neg film at least)? killabyte posted:Those are staticmaster brushes, and it's not plutonium, but polonium, which is a completely different element. I have one, they are still sold and work pretty well.
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Sep 3, 2010 16:38
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Polonium: not just for murdering political dissidents.
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Sep 3, 2010 16:43
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Sushi in Yiddish posted:Any truth to Kodak Extar being close to the color and handling of Kodachrome (for a color neg film at least)? It's kind of inconsistent, I didn't like the first roll I shot of it, but I did like the second. I wouldn't go so far as to call it Kodachrome-esque, but it does have some of the saturation and contrast normally associated with a positive film. Some unexciting shots from my second roll:  Sidewalk by ethics_gradient, on Flickr  Ektar 100 by ethics_gradient, on Flickr  Game Over by ethics_gradient, on Flickr
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Sep 3, 2010 21:14
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Pompous Rhombus posted:It's kind of inconsistent, I didn't like the first roll I shot of it, but I did like the second. I wouldn't go so far as to call it Kodachrome-esque, but it does have some of the saturation and contrast normally associated with a positive film. Some unexciting shots from my second roll: Thats some nice saturation you got there, I'm excited to try some Ektar but money is real tight right now 
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Sep 3, 2010 23:43
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Is there a go-to film lab for processing and scanning E6/C41 to CD or DVD? One that doesn't call 40kb jpegs "high-quality digital images"?
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Sep 4, 2010 00:08
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theflyingexecutive posted:Is there a go-to film lab for processing and scanning E6/C41 to CD or DVD? One that doesn't call 40kb jpegs "high-quality digital images"? Given the price most labs charge for scanning, I think you're better off dropping the cash on a nice scanner.
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Sep 4, 2010 01:04
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theflyingexecutive posted:Is there a go-to film lab for processing and scanning E6/C41 to CD or DVD? One that doesn't call 40kb jpegs "high-quality digital images"?
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Sep 4, 2010 01:41
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whoa those are some killer prices. A&I in LA charges $9 /120 E6 sigh also lol @ quote:These are the scans photographer, Ken Rockwell, raves about in his web article
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Sep 4, 2010 06:06
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Pompous Rhombus posted:It's kind of inconsistent, I didn't like the first roll I shot of it, but I did like the second. I wouldn't go so far as to call it Kodachrome-esque, but it does have some of the saturation and contrast normally associated with a positive film. Some unexciting shots from my second roll: It's like a slide film in that you need to pretty much nail exposure. Rather than having some latitude, it seems like overexposure produces saturation and "cliche" colors - cyans, fire-engine reds, strong earth tones, and a bright yellow. I'm shooting Sunny f/16 on this and the colors are very inconsistent.
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Sep 4, 2010 15:18
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I was making an order for some chemicals and I noticed the shop I was buying from had a big range of Rollei films (new, not expired). I picked up 3 rolls of Ortho 25 in 120 to play with. Does anyone have any experience with this film? Any tips?
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Sep 4, 2010 17:15
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Spedman posted:I was making an order for some chemicals and I noticed the shop I was buying from had a big range of Rollei films (new, not expired). I picked up 3 rolls of Ortho 25 in 120 to play with. Does anyone have any experience with this film? Any tips? Which shop? I have a project in mind that ortho would eb perfect for.
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Sep 4, 2010 19:18
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Gnomad posted:Which shop? I have a project in mind that ortho would eb perfect for. It was FirstCall Photographic in the uk, I think Freestyle sell it as well. Go to the Rollei site and they've got links to resellers.
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Sep 5, 2010 09:20
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After going through my massive haul of stuff from a yard sale, and reading that some of the gang is actually using flash bulbs, I thought I'd give it a try. However-the Argus flash gun I have needs a 22.5V battery and a similarly sized capacitor to operate. Neither is exactly an off-the-shelf item these days, so I gave it some thought and came up with this.  The green battery is actually the capacitor. As the camera that came with the outfit has a repair sticker from 1957, I'm thinking the capacitor is about that old and has likely perished. Answer-Radio Shack 1000 MF 35v unit soldered into the terminals. Batteries are a pair of 544 6V. It was a bit fiddly but it does flash fine...now my GF and my kids are avoiding me. Apparently testing the flash on them isn't as amusing to them as it is to me. Here's the rig I plan to use the flashgun with-  Argus C 44 with a 100mm lens. Once my Fresstyle order comes in and I can rope some volunteers...
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Sep 6, 2010 06:03
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That is really neat.
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Sep 6, 2010 06:11
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Sorry to jump in here, but can anyone recommend a better developer in Toronto? Shopper's Drug Mart does it, but they only export very low-resolution images to CD. I've tried asking for higher-resolution, they say "sure sure" and I get the same thing again. Obviously I don't HAVE to get them on CD, but I'd prefer it. I don't really want to have to store/waste prints.
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Sep 7, 2010 03:39
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How much are you paying at Shopper's? You can always have Henry's send the film away. I think I actually had them give me media with my film once, I'll have to see if I can still find it and determine of what quality it was. Of course this wouldn't be a same day pickup or whatever Shopper's does.
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Sep 7, 2010 07:36
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Ah great idea to try Henry's. Shopper's was stupidly cheap. I want to say it was under $2, but it couldn't have been more than $2.50 to have the negatives processed and get just a photodisc.
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Sep 7, 2010 11:12
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teethgrinder posted:Ah great idea to try Henry's. Shopper's was stupidly cheap. I want to say it was under $2, but it couldn't have been more than $2.50 to have the negatives processed and get just a photodisc. Are you dealing with 135 or 120? BW, Neg or Slide? If you want High Quality scan you might have to go with Imageworks. Moist von Lipwig fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 13:25
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135 I guess, and negatives. $6 for a whole roll of 6mb scans isn't bad at all, though I suppose it needs to be processed first. Maybe I should just get a scanner that does negatives and keep processing at SDM.
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Sep 7, 2010 14:10
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teethgrinder posted:135 I guess, and negatives. $6 for a whole roll of 6mb scans isn't bad at all, though I suppose it needs to be processed first. I'm going to go there for a Darkroom rental and developing soon enough hopefully so I'll give a trip report.
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Sep 7, 2010 14:31
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I've found a handful of APS film rolls, are there still local places (CVS, Walmart) that develop this stuff or will I have to send it away? Some of it's already been developed and I just want contact sheets made; some have never been developed at all. I know I'm probably a few years past the expiration dates on these, but I gotta try. This is like secret poo poo out of my 20's, I really have no idea what's on them but I'm insanely curious.
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Sep 7, 2010 16:14
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jackpot posted:I've found a handful of APS film rolls, are there still local places (CVS, Walmart) that develop this stuff or will I have to send it away? Some of it's already been developed and I just want contact sheets made; some have never been developed at all. I know I'm probably a few years past the expiration dates on these, but I gotta try. I'm pretty sure they should be able to do it. The photo lab at the supermarket near me lists APS as one of the formats they can do.
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Sep 7, 2010 17:50
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Did my first bit of film processing ever last night. Got some Rodinal and some Formapan (I didn't want my first roll to be of some good stuff) and had a play in the bathroom. Thanks for all the tips in this thread, invaluable.  Here are some results:  Flair, scratch and grain by mr_student, on Flickr  Princess St by mr_student, on Flickr
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Sep 8, 2010 11:07
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Nice seeing people getting back(?) into flash bulb photography. I recently got the bug and am working to return a canon flash unit to working order.  Canon IV sb by sushisteve, on Flickr jackpot posted:I've found a handful of APS film rolls, are there still local places (CVS, Walmart) that develop this stuff or will I have to send it away? Some of it's already been developed and I just want contact sheets made; some have never been developed at all. I know I'm probably a few years past the expiration dates on these, but I gotta try. The CVS in my town seemed to still be selling the drat stuff, so they could still have the equipment? Sushi in Yiddish fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Sep 8, 2010 |
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Sep 8, 2010 15:05
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teethgrinder posted:Sorry to jump in here, but can anyone recommend a better developer in Toronto? Shopper's Drug Mart does it, but they only export very low-resolution images to CD. I've tried asking for higher-resolution, they say "sure sure" and I get the same thing again. The truth is that there is no place that even comes close to Shopper's for the price in Toronto. You basically pay $3 for the CD they use and they fill the disc with however many rolls of low-res scans they can. I've never taken more than 3 rolls in at a time, and I've never paid more than three bucks. I feel like I'm just paying for the developing and those scans are nice just to have around. Getting high-res scans at a proper photo lab is soooo expensive here. I honestly suggest just getting your own scanner if you're shooting any sort of volume. I go to Northern Artists for my black and white film. They're really great, but I can't afford to get all my rolls scanned there.
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Sep 8, 2010 15:45
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Where do you all get flashbulbs from? I have a couple of bulb flashes (including a hand wind-up one) and I'd like to use them.
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Sep 8, 2010 16:37
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Spedman posted:Did my first bit of film processing ever last night. Got some Rodinal and some Formapan (I didn't want my first roll to be of some good stuff) and had a play in the bathroom. Thanks for all the tips in this thread, invaluable. I really like the second one.
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Sep 8, 2010 22:09
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Where do you all get flashbulbs from? I have a couple of bulb flashes (including a hand wind-up one) and I'd like to use them. Ah, I'd heard of the winding one online somewhere-that's quite a find. The most common flashbulbs on the bay would seem to be GE #5 and Sylvania 25s. For the larger, graflex bulbs (the size of the one in my picture) and the much more common m3/m5 "midget" bulbs. Average price would seem to be around 8 bucks plus shipping for 10 or so large bulbs, but you can find lots of 20 or so sometimes as well. Finding the manuals online for the flash units is kind of a pain, as butkus doesn't have them as far as I know. Edit: Actually, I'm more worried about the capacitator that goes with the flash unit...how long would one of those last if it looks to be in good condition? Sushi in Yiddish fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 01:16
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The older flash guns should be fairly easy-according to the packages the bulbs come in, they want 3 volts. The challenge is to clean the crusty old battery terminals and the flash contacts. It might be better to make an adapter to use some higher voltage batteries-a pair of 544s will give you 12v and I know they will fire a bulb.
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Sep 9, 2010 03:18
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Ok, I've been lured back to shooting film by Velvia 50, but this sounds too good to be true: "35mm - Mounted or Un-mounted, included two line imprint. $8.25" Does that mean I send them $8.95 and a roll of slide film, and in return I get back a whole bunch of slides with my own text on them? Edit: Also, I'd love recommendations for a good books about printing slide film, Ilfochrome, or preferably dye transfer printing Runoir fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 07:28
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