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Meow Cadet
May 2, 2007


friendship is magic
in a pony paradise
don't you judge me

Abbeh posted:

What's everyone's favorite cat toys?
The makers of Da Bird also make a toy called a Cat Catcher. My cats go berserk for it, crying at the closet constantly for it. They never ever ever tire of it. If I'm lazy and don't put it away after a play session, the cats will drag it all over the house, and eventually sleep with it (after soaking the little mousie thing with drool, of course).

http://www.go-cat.com/images/Cat_Catcher.jpg

I think one of the reasons this Cat Catcher, and Da Bird are so much better than other wand toys, is that they use a wire instead of string or elastic. Makes the motion a little different.

Meow Cadet fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Sep 1, 2010

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Abbeh
May 23, 2006

When I grow up I mean to be
A Lion large and fierce to see.
(Thank you, Das Boo!)
Yeah, we have to hide Da Bird thing in the armoire when we're not around, because the cats and dog will both chow down on the feathers :psyduck: and yes, Zoso plays with it too. I suppose we can just work on tiring them out more when we're around.

GoreJess
Aug 4, 2004

pretty in pink

drat Bananas posted:

I think I want to get a Feliway diffuser, but what's the difference between these two things, other than price?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FH708I/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WHUOEI/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

At first I thought one may be a knockoff brand but they both say Feliway!

The second one has French writing on the box & it does look like they're 2 different brands. The first one is the packaging that I'm used to seeing in the store.

Funking Wholesome
Jul 7, 2007
Comrade Quack, you kick so much rear end. There turned out to be one not ten minutes from my house! I scheduled an appointment for this afternoon.

:dance:

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me

GoreJess posted:

The second one has French writing on the box & it does look like they're 2 different brands. The first one is the packaging that I'm used to seeing in the store.

Hah, how did I miss the French? But that one has the same logo as the feliway.com website, so I'm wondering if it is actually the original. I also just noticed that the second one has a refill while the first does not. I think I'd pay $3 for an extra? But it also has less reviews than the other, and averaging a little lower, making me think it's the knockoff. Gahhh.

Dixie Cretin Seaman
Jan 22, 2008

all hat and one catte
Hot Rope Guy

Cassiope posted:

Hard to tell really from the pic. but it looks like his scales are sticking out. That's a sure sign of dropsy. If his sides look spikey, like a pinecone, it definitely is. Poor guy :(
I've had two fish die from it. One got so bad I had to euthanize it (I was like..10, that was traumatic) and the other keeled over before I could do much.

I don't mean to be discouraging, just letting you know that if it is dropsy it is a very difficult disease to treat. Look up treatments on fish sites and do your best though. Keep us posted. Good luck.

edit: Also, if it is constipation you can clear that up by feeding him a pea. Get a fresh cooked or frozen cooked (not canned! They have lots of sodium...but in a pinch I would use whatever I guess) pea and squeeze the insides out. He can't break the skin by himself and only needs a little of the inside 'cause if you put a whole bunch of peas in there it will dirty up the water like nothing else.

He really doesn't seem spiky so much as just incredibly bloated all of a sudden. Would he still be acting normal if it's dropsy? On the other hand he seems to be eating and pooping normally, which seems to go against constipation... I guess I'll get some peas for him tomorrow and hope for the best...

Cassiope
Jul 7, 2010

Man, the living creature, the creating individual, is always more important than any established style or system.
Except for cats.
Dropsy really is a symptom of other serious diseases/organ failures. This site (http://www.nippyfish.net/dropsy.html has some good information on it, and says that usually is is accompanied by lethargy and lack of appetite. If your fish does not move too much or eat too much in the first place then it might be hard to tell. I would add some aquarium salt to his water to help (can't hurt). Here's how:

quote:

To relieve the discomfort of bloating add 1/2 tsp aquarium salt per gallon of water. This will help to draw some of the fluids out and relieve pressure. Epsom salt baths are not recommended because of inconsistencies in their success rate. As always never use table salt in a fish tank. Aquarium salt can be purchased at your local fish store. Most importantly, keep your tank water clean and stable and your temperature at a comfortable 78˚F [25.5˚C].

Also, I would ask this in one of the more specific aquarium hobbyist threads. There are much more experienced betta and tropical fish keepers here on PI and that's where to find them.

What size tank do you have him in? Do you have plants? What are the water parameters? I'm curious, and the more serious fish people will definitely need to know in order to help.

Shebrew
Jul 12, 2006

Is it a party?
My cat that I adopted a week ago has an eye infection. I took her to the vet on Saturday and they gave me this gel stuff to put in her eye twice a day. The full dosage is for 10 days, and while the discharge in her eye is gone, she still squints with her infected eye a lot. Should I be concerned that she's not looking totally normal yet and call the vet or should I wait till the 10 days are up? :ohdear:

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~

Shebrew posted:

My cat that I adopted a week ago has an eye infection. I took her to the vet on Saturday and they gave me this gel stuff to put in her eye twice a day. The full dosage is for 10 days, and while the discharge in her eye is gone, she still squints with her infected eye a lot. Should I be concerned that she's not looking totally normal yet and call the vet or should I wait till the 10 days are up? :ohdear:

I'd wait and see. Her eye probably isn't very comfortable yet as I imagine the whole goo thing isn't pleasant either. It wouldn't hurt to call your vet if you're still worried after the treatment is done.

ChairmanMeow
Mar 1, 2008

Fire up the grill everyone eats tonight!
Lipstick Apathy

Shebrew posted:

My cat that I adopted a week ago has an eye infection. I took her to the vet on Saturday and they gave me this gel stuff to put in her eye twice a day. The full dosage is for 10 days, and while the discharge in her eye is gone, she still squints with her infected eye a lot. Should I be concerned that she's not looking totally normal yet and call the vet or should I wait till the 10 days are up? :ohdear:

I've only gotten the poly bac once, normally they give me the terramycin and sometimes they give me drops. I can't remember how long it took to get better with the poly-bac. If you are seeing an improvement I would think you are on the right track and would just keep up with what you are doing. I'm fairly sure they wouldn't mind a call if you wanted to check the percent improvement. I have a hard time getting it in there, but if it's improving I wouldn't sweat it yet.
beaten by Kerfuffle

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Kerfuffle posted:

Her eye probably isn't very comfortable yet as I imagine the whole goo thing isn't pleasant either.
This. Is she squinting more after you put the ointment in? Sometimes the goo itself is irritating and will make them squint even if the infection is clearing up.
It shouldn't take 10 days to get better. Like most antibiotic treatments, you should see significant improvement in the first few days (which it sounds like you did), and then finish the full course to make sure you kill it all. Sometimes it takes more than one antibiotic to find the one that works, and I don't think it ever hurts to call the vet and ask their opinion.

perhonen
May 7, 2007
My parents have a pair of westies. One of them, Fiona, is just about a year old and is good natured, if a little dumb. The other westie, Sophie, is about 3 years old, is very toy-oriented, very much the leader of the two westies. Sophie was a rescue they've had for about 1 year, and something had obviously been done to her tail; it's a little bent and she is very sensitive to people touching it. We always mention to groomers that she is very sensitive to people touching her tail, but I was heartbroken to hear that when they brought her in for a grooming, she bit and broke the skin of an employee. The county took her away for 2 weeks for rabies/behavior testing.

I am researching everything I can about solutions, and I am leaning towards one-on-one training with professional trainer. I thought I should get PI's take on this, because while my parents are(or like to think they are) good dog owners, they sadly neglected aggression training, as this is the first dog they've had that's been aggressive at all. She doesn't bite other dogs except when playing, and she doesn't even bite humans except when they touch her tail.

I'm terrified that because i'm living in a different city in a no-dog apartment, I can't take her in and modify her behavior the way I know it needs to be. I have talked my parents into possibly going to training sessions with her, but I just want to make sure this is the right direction I should be going in.

Shebrew
Jul 12, 2006

Is it a party?

Crooked Booty posted:

This. Is she squinting more after you put the ointment in? Sometimes the goo itself is irritating and will make them squint even if the infection is clearing up.
It shouldn't take 10 days to get better. Like most antibiotic treatments, you should see significant improvement in the first few days (which it sounds like you did), and then finish the full course to make sure you kill it all. Sometimes it takes more than one antibiotic to find the one that works, and I don't think it ever hurts to call the vet and ask their opinion.

Sometimes she looks totally better and sometimes not. I don't know if it's in relation to when I give her the goo stuff though.

She definitely is not a fan of it, either way. My roommate helps me by holding her and I have to pry open her eye and put it in. We call it "kitty wrangling". I'll give the vet a call tomorrow to see if she's on a good trajectory or if I should try another treatment.

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

frenziedslacker posted:

I'm terrified that because i'm living in a different city in a no-dog apartment, I can't take her in and modify her behavior the way I know it needs to be. I have talked my parents into possibly going to training sessions with her, but I just want to make sure this is the right direction I should be going in.
Training is a good idea, but first she needs to go to the vet to figure out what is wrong with her tail. If it's that sensitive to touch, it seems very possible that it's hurting her all the time, and something needs to be done about that.

GoreJess
Aug 4, 2004

pretty in pink

frenziedslacker posted:

My parents have a pair of westies. One of them, Fiona, is just about a year old and is good natured, if a little dumb. The other westie, Sophie, is about 3 years old, is very toy-oriented, very much the leader of the two westies. Sophie was a rescue they've had for about 1 year, and something had obviously been done to her tail; it's a little bent and she is very sensitive to people touching it. We always mention to groomers that she is very sensitive to people touching her tail, but I was heartbroken to hear that when they brought her in for a grooming, she bit and broke the skin of an employee. The county took her away for 2 weeks for rabies/behavior testing.

I am researching everything I can about solutions, and I am leaning towards one-on-one training with professional trainer. I thought I should get PI's take on this, because while my parents are(or like to think they are) good dog owners, they sadly neglected aggression training, as this is the first dog they've had that's been aggressive at all. She doesn't bite other dogs except when playing, and she doesn't even bite humans except when they touch her tail.

I'm terrified that because i'm living in a different city in a no-dog apartment, I can't take her in and modify her behavior the way I know it needs to be. I have talked my parents into possibly going to training sessions with her, but I just want to make sure this is the right direction I should be going in.

I seriously can't believe the county took her for 2 weeks of testing. If touching her tail causes her immense pain, you can't really fault her for lashing out at the person causing her pain. What your parents should really do is take her to the vet to find out if her tail can be fixed. Taking away her pain could solve her "aggression" problem.

cereal eater
Aug 25, 2008

I'd save these, if I wanted too

ps i dont deserve my 'king' nickname

a life less posted:

This is all good advice, but I'll jump in with a little more.

It sounds like you're trying to modify his behaviour with punishment, and you're not finding it effective. As WolfensteinBag said, you need to let your dog know that it will be worth his time to listen to you. Use positive reinforcement in the form of tasty treats to help lay the groundwork for future obedience work. There's been a lot of discussion in the Puppy Megathread in the last few pages so I recommend you go check it out. The basic idea is that if you see your dog doing something you like, mark that behaviour and reward it with a treat. As your dog is reinforced for good behaviour he's more likely to repeat it in the future.

You say that he has selective hearing and that he ignores you often. That may be the case, but it's also very possible that he doesn't understand what you want of him. If he's gotten used to not listening he may not realize that "come" means come when he's outside sniffing something, or that "sit" means sit when he's in the living room (but he understands it in the kitchen). Try going back to basics in different locations and do organized training sessions. I make my dog work for her kibble so I'm not feeding her too much, and she's hungry (I work around meal times) so she'll work a bit harder for me. Keep it simple to start and then up the difficulty by working in more distracting environments.

For the pulling, reward him for the slightest moment of loose leash walking over and over and over again. If he's letting the leash go loose for any length of time shovel treats into his face. Eventually he should figure out that the loose leash means that good things happen. If he's pulling hard stop moving and wait for him to look back and acknowledge you. Again, reward this behaviour. Reward from your hip so he has to come back to you to receive the treat.

Anyways, those are the basics. Just to reiterate, try reading the last 5 pages or so of the puppy megathread and try implementing a few of the tactics mentioned there.

edit: Also, choke chains are not good training tools. They can cause significant damage if used incorrectly. If you simply must, try using a prong collar. They look nasty, but they're a bit better than a choke. The important thing is that you must use it in conjunction with training, and not a crutch. You need to keep rewarding him for good behaviour -- it just provides a stronger aversive not to pull and you will see more immediate results. However, they may not be as long lasting. I much prefer to use reinforcement over punishment.

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll be sure to check out puppy thread, and I'm sure I'll be posting more questions soon. I had some health issues come up which have been distracting me, but I'll check back in this thread soon. Thanks again.

paisleyfox
Feb 23, 2009

My dog thinks he's a pretty lady.


cereal eater posted:

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll be sure to check out puppy thread, and I'm sure I'll be posting more questions soon. I had some health issues come up which have been distracting me, but I'll check back in this thread soon. Thanks again.

Also, be sure to pop on in the Primitive Breeds thread, you might be able to get some more specialized advice there (plus I want to see your Kai, damnit!)

WolfensteinBag
Aug 7, 2003

So it was all your work?

Crooked Booty posted:

Training is a good idea, but first she needs to go to the vet to figure out what is wrong with her tail. If it's that sensitive to touch, it seems very possible that it's hurting her all the time, and something needs to be done about that.

GoreJess posted:

I seriously can't believe the county took her for 2 weeks of testing. If touching her tail causes her immense pain, you can't really fault her for lashing out at the person causing her pain. What your parents should really do is take her to the vet to find out if her tail can be fixed. Taking away her pain could solve her "aggression" problem.

To be fair, as a groomer, there might no longer be anything wrong with her tail. For some reason westies in particular seem to be really sensitive to things, and are actually really likely to bite. I have one dog in mind that I work with, actually, who sounds really similar. He is in a good home now, and nothing is physically wrong with him, but his past is unknown and for some reason, he became really sensitive about his rear. We have to work slowly and muzzle him straight off because he's highly unpredictable, even though there's physically nothing wrong with him.

Obviously it's a good idea to see a vet, but definitely don't assume that the problem's going to be fixed even if there is something still wrong with it. It's going to take a LOT of work at desensitizing the dog to having its tail touched, and when the dog is being groomed, it's important to let them know of the situation ahead of time, and tell them to muzzle your dog, even if they feel they can work through it. Make sure you let them know that the dog has bitten before, so they can prepare accordingly.

As far as working on the situation at home, your fist goal is to find some sort of super delicious treat that the dog absolutely LOVES. Then, while shoveling treats into the dogs mouth, just work on petting her down her back. Slowly work towards petting near the tail. If it seems like she's going to tense up, back up the area you're petting so it's more of a comfortable spot.

It may take a long time, but eventually she should let you pet her lower and lower until she's comfortable with you petting down on her tail. It's something that should be worked on for a few minutes EVERY day for it to work out. Over time, you can switch from just petting the tail to moving it around picking it up, etc. If possible, have OTHER people do the same as well (but starting slower, like you will) so she'll get used to strangers petting her in the same way.

Like I said, you still need to warn your groomer to always muzzle the dog, because the touching is going to be a lot more involved and you never know how she's going to react when you're not around. However, working on her at home and telling the groomer they can ALSO shovel treats into her mouth will go a long way to helping her overcome her anxiety. :)

migee
Jan 29, 2009
Heres a quick one for the cat lovers. I recently adopted a cat of 7-years for a couple weeks now. It has been eating and drinking and going to the box regularly with no problems. However it LOOKS like its breathing faster than I remember cats normally do. It doesn't pant, relaxes and goes on its back and purrs alot so I'm not very alarmed. I just want some confirmation that this appears normal or not as she is a new addition to the apartment and I can't compare her to the past self:

Here it is, relaxed and purring
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhG8OwuB6nk

and here it is after petting it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uwh1hQ4uFsg

When putting my head next to her it was just constant uninterrupted purring. Am I just being overly cautious!? Does purring cause cats to appear to breathe faster?

perhonen
May 7, 2007

WolfensteinBag posted:

To be fair, as a groomer, there might no longer be anything wrong with her tail. For some reason westies in particular seem to be really sensitive to things, and are actually really likely to bite. I have one dog in mind that I work with, actually, who sounds really similar. He is in a good home now, and nothing is physically wrong with him, but his past is unknown and for some reason, he became really sensitive about his rear. We have to work slowly and muzzle him straight off because he's highly unpredictable, even though there's physically nothing wrong with him.

Obviously it's a good idea to see a vet, but definitely don't assume that the problem's going to be fixed even if there is something still wrong with it. It's going to take a LOT of work at desensitizing the dog to having its tail touched, and when the dog is being groomed, it's important to let them know of the situation ahead of time, and tell them to muzzle your dog, even if they feel they can work through it. Make sure you let them know that the dog has bitten before, so they can prepare accordingly.

As far as working on the situation at home, your fist goal is to find some sort of super delicious treat that the dog absolutely LOVES. Then, while shoveling treats into the dogs mouth, just work on petting her down her back. Slowly work towards petting near the tail. If it seems like she's going to tense up, back up the area you're petting so it's more of a comfortable spot.

It may take a long time, but eventually she should let you pet her lower and lower until she's comfortable with you petting down on her tail. It's something that should be worked on for a few minutes EVERY day for it to work out. Over time, you can switch from just petting the tail to moving it around picking it up, etc. If possible, have OTHER people do the same as well (but starting slower, like you will) so she'll get used to strangers petting her in the same way.

Like I said, you still need to warn your groomer to always muzzle the dog, because the touching is going to be a lot more involved and you never know how she's going to react when you're not around. However, working on her at home and telling the groomer they can ALSO shovel treats into her mouth will go a long way to helping her overcome her anxiety. :)


Thanks for your advic, I really appreciate it. The circumstances about the whole thing seem odd, because they picked her up from the groomer and they didn't mention a thing, and then 4 hours later an officer came by the house and had to explain the whole thing.

Enelrahc
Jun 17, 2007

frenziedslacker posted:

Thanks for your advic, I really appreciate it. The circumstances about the whole thing seem odd, because they picked her up from the groomer and they didn't mention a thing, and then 4 hours later an officer came by the house and had to explain the whole thing.

Yes, they should have told you about the bite but what I imagine probably happened is that whoever got bitten didn't tell management about it because they didn't want the dog to get in trouble or they were new enough that they didn't know it had to be reported, and then somehow it came to light later that day and the bite report was filed. The city coming wouldn't have been the groomer's fault per say - they just reported the bite as they were legally obligated to do so and the city followed up on their own regulations after that point. I don't think it would be wrong of you (or your parents...whatevs) to call the groomers and just explain that you understand that accidents can happen and you would have appreciated notice of the dog bite occurrence because a dog bite is a serious thing and it is in the best interest of the dog that the owners are aware of such an incident so that they can take steps so that it won't occur again.

Any time anyone is bitten, it is law that a bite report is filed with the city both for the reporting business' liability insurance and general public health reasons (rabies mostly). As long as the dog was up to date on rabies, I would be surprised that they actually took the dog, but I'm only familiar with my area's laws and they would never waste money on behavior training and housing for a dog with only one bite under its belt unless it did something really dangerous like bite a face or something. In my experience for a first bite, a dog is put on an in house quarantine for 14 days. It's something you should be able to look up on your city's website though, usually under something in the pet section about "dog bite quarantine regulations" or similar. If I were you I'd read up on that so you know what the process for your city was, and I'd also be interested in seeing a copy of the bite report so that you'd know exactly what was reported as happening. I would think they would be willing to provide you with a copy of it without much of an issue.

e: its != it's

Enelrahc fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Sep 3, 2010

BIFF!
Jan 4, 2009
So I've been feeding my 7 month old Doberman/Rottie puppy twice a day since I got her, 1.5 cups at each meal. Lately though, she doesn't really eat her morning meal but downs her evening meal in no time flat. So, I've started just feeding her the whole 3 cups once a day and she eats it all every time. Reading around a little I've found that some people recommend feeding a puppy at least twice a day until they are a year old. Is it ok to feed her just once a day?

WolfensteinBag
Aug 7, 2003

So it was all your work?

So.... what happened to all the stickied threads? :confused: I don't get why aside from the rules, the flea thread of all things is the only one stuck. Just curious.

WolfensteinBag fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Sep 3, 2010

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

WolfensteinBag posted:

So.... what happened to all the stickied thread? :confused: I don't get why aside from the rules, the flea thread of all things is the only one stuck. Just curious.

Seconding this. Those threads had some pretty awesome information in them. I'd hate for them to get lost.

Meow Cadet
May 2, 2007


friendship is magic
in a pony paradise
don't you judge me

a life less posted:

Seconding this. Those threads had some pretty awesome information in them. I'd hate for them to get lost.

They were awesome, but they were also super long with the same poo poo asked over and over again. I think it would be nice to have just nice short and sweet cat/dog FAQ that doesn't turn into more than a page or two.

rivals
Apr 5, 2004

REBIRTH OF HARDCORE PRIDE!
I think that's a pretty good point. Maybe something that's locked except to mods or certain people or whatever that just functions as a FAQ?

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~

a life less posted:

Seconding this. Those threads had some pretty awesome information in them. I'd hate for them to get lost.

Maybe they're testing if they can stay up on their own from posts alone. I know this and the pet food thread thrived easily. If not they really should be put up again. They're also linked in the rules sticky though.

WolfensteinBag
Aug 7, 2003

So it was all your work?

Kerfuffle posted:

Maybe they're testing if they can stay up on their own from posts alone. I know this and the pet food thread thrived easily. If not they really should be put up again. They're also linked in the rules sticky though.

I mainly got confused why the flea thread would be on top, when the others weren't. I mean, as horrible as fleas are, a thread isn't AS important as the kitten/puppy threads, is it? I would think if anything, only the rules would be on top, so long as the other threads are linked. v :) v

Serella
Apr 24, 2008

Is that what you're posting?

WolfensteinBag posted:

I mainly got confused why the flea thread would be on top, when the others weren't. I mean, as horrible as fleas are, a thread isn't AS important as the kitten/puppy threads, is it? I would think if anything, only the rules would be on top, so long as the other threads are linked. v :) v

There were several new threads being posted about fleas along with questions in here every week, though. I think it's a good seasonal thread to have stickied.

ch3cooh
Jun 26, 2006

So my pug threw up this afternoon but I thought nothing of it since we had been driving all day and he seemed otherwise normal. Well about 30 minutes ago he puked his brains out and is now sluggish, not very responsive and his breathing is shallow (even by pug standards). Freak out emergency vet visit or see him through to morning?

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~

ch3cooh posted:

So my pug threw up this afternoon but I thought nothing of it since we had been driving all day and he seemed otherwise normal. Well about 30 minutes ago he puked his brains out and is now sluggish, not very responsive and his breathing is shallow (even by pug standards). Freak out emergency vet visit or see him through to morning?

You have a pug they're health disasters even at their best, I'd e-vet. :(

Lackadaisical
Nov 8, 2005

Adj: To Not Give A Shit
How effective is feliway?

I moved about a week ago and the stress of packing up my old place as well as the stress of being in a new home seems to have really affected my cat. She spent last week hiding in the bathroom cabinet (I had to actually feed her in there since she wouldn't come out) and this week she won't come out from under the bed. She's eating so I'm not worried about that... but I feel bad my cat isn't being her normal lovable self. I'm tempted to try feliway but would it really make that big of a difference? Is it worth it or should I just give her time to get adjusted?

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
It works, but not on all cats. Time will definitely be the best medicine in this case, but if feliway works on her it wouldn't hurt to help make her more comfortable.

Lackadaisical
Nov 8, 2005

Adj: To Not Give A Shit
Assuming it does work, how extreme are the effects? I'm not expecting her to be 100% normal instantaneously but I'd be a little disappointed if at best it just got her to poke her head out for an extra minute a day.

Emasculatrix
Nov 30, 2004


Tell Me You Love Me.

Lackadaisical posted:

How effective is feliway?

I moved about a week ago and the stress of packing up my old place as well as the stress of being in a new home seems to have really affected my cat. She spent last week hiding in the bathroom cabinet (I had to actually feed her in there since she wouldn't come out) and this week she won't come out from under the bed. She's eating so I'm not worried about that... but I feel bad my cat isn't being her normal lovable self. I'm tempted to try feliway but would it really make that big of a difference? Is it worth it or should I just give her time to get adjusted?

Have you tried just picking her up and taking her out? It works with Ezra, and if she can overcome her social disorders, any cat can. When we have people over, we'll just drag her out from under the bed and put her in the middle of the room with people. She'll run away, but then come back later, since she now knows that it's not as scary as she originally thought.

Or...get some anti-anxiety meds from the vet.

Lackadaisical
Nov 8, 2005

Adj: To Not Give A Shit
My cat has managed to find the one place in my new room where I absolutely cannot reach. Even still, I've moved my entire bed twice to get her and she flips the gently caress out.

I'm not convinced it's stress anymore, I think she's just pissed at me. I've noticed she comes out to hang out by my desk and eat when I'm asleep. The moment she realizes I'm awake, she's back under the bed. :( I just want my affectionate kitty back.

e: Oh, and I forgot to mention that she was the only pet in the house before. Now there are 3 other cats and 2 chickens running around. I'm isolating her in my room for the time being, but I'm sure she knows what's going on and is making the situation worse. She's also what I call "the bitch cat". When she was a stray, she was on the bottom of the totem pole with all the other strays. If she was eating and another cat came over, she would slink away and watch them eat her food and just hope there was some left over when they were done. Having other cats around again can't be easy but I have no idea how to help her with that.

Lackadaisical fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Sep 4, 2010

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
:shobon: Just leave her be and give her time. I've never used feliway first hand (all those chances were passed up because I didn't know about it, uggh) but I imagine it helps destress them enough to where they don't feel the need to hide CONSTANTLY.

Anti-anxiety meds would be pretty extreme though.........

ch3cooh
Jun 26, 2006

Kerfuffle posted:

You have a pug they're health disasters even at their best, I'd e-vet. :(

About 20 minutes after I posted that he started moving around and drinking water. Within another 10 he was back to running around like a pug and trying to clear chunks of pukes from his nose (just like me after I puke!). This morning he is back to normal. Here's my only lingering question, about an hour before he puked for the second time yesterday I gave him his heartworm preventive. Should I give him a second dose?

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
I'm glad your pug's doing ok. :) Call your vet about the heartworm meds though.

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BIFF!
Jan 4, 2009

Vanderloo posted:

So I've been feeding my 7 month old Doberman/Rottie puppy twice a day since I got her, 1.5 cups at each meal. Lately though, she doesn't really eat her morning meal but downs her evening meal in no time flat. So, I've started just feeding her the whole 3 cups once a day and she eats it all every time. Reading around a little I've found that some people recommend feeding a puppy at least twice a day until they are a year old. Is it ok to feed her just once a day?

Well, since starting this my dog has thrown up yellow liquid (I'm guessing bile?). Googling this, I found that dogs who are fed once a day can have this happen to them. So, back to two meals a day.

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