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UnkleBoB posted:Quick question: If I wanted to put a tilt steering wheel into a '74 CJ5, first would this be possible - and second, what vehicles could I pilfer one out of? You can pull the steering wheel from a Cherokee, they came with a tilt steering wheel and it should fit in place of the CJ steering column, the main thing is you would have to either wire in the signal/washer controls and ignition or remove them
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Sep 4, 2010 21:04
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The easier option is a CJ7, should be a quick swap out once you find one in a junk yard. Both vehicles are identical in the front.
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Sep 4, 2010 23:58
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Hey Jeep goons, I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with 150,000 miles on it. My dad and I have replaced the engine, due to a hairline crack in the block, the brakes and tires as well as the tail pipe and muffler. I'm wondering how much life it has left in it, being my first car and all. It was definitely not babied before I got it, I believe it was a farm hauler and such. It passed inspection without trouble and it doesn't make much if any noise.
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Sep 5, 2010 00:59
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lolwtfomgbbq posted:Hey Jeep goons, I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with 150,000 miles on it. My dad and I have replaced the engine, due to a hairline crack in the block, the brakes and tires as well as the tail pipe and muffler. I'm wondering how much life it has left in it, being my first car and all. It was definitely not babied before I got it, I believe it was a farm hauler and such. It passed inspection without trouble and it doesn't make much if any noise. If you maintain the current good engine, keep the fluids topped off and new spark plugs/wires/cap/fuel filter etc.....it will keep going till the body disintegrates from under it. The 4.0l is a VERY durable engine and its not uncommon for them to continue to function well past 300k even with lack of maintenance
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Sep 5, 2010 01:06
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CommieGIR posted:If you maintain the current good engine, keep the fluids topped off and new spark plugs/wires/cap/fuel filter etc.....it will keep going till the body disintegrates from under it. The 4.0l is a VERY durable engine and its not uncommon for them to continue to function well past 300k even with lack of maintenance Alright cool, I figured as much with as many as I see on the road. Thanks for the reply and the awesome thread.
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Sep 5, 2010 01:15
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lolwtfomgbbq posted:Alright cool, I figured as much with as many as I see on the road. Thanks for the reply and the awesome thread. Little story you may like: During the cash for clunkers program, a lot of Cherokees with the 4.0 were turned in. By law, the engines had to be disabled/destroyed. They did this by draining the coolant and oil and running the engines till they locked for failed. They found it particularly hard to burn out the 4.0s, and ended up putting fluids in them to cause them to lock or jam
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Sep 5, 2010 01:17
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CommieGIR posted:Little story you may like: During the cash for clunkers program, a lot of Cherokees with the 4.0 were turned in. By law, the engines had to be disabled/destroyed. Jeep- even making the government empty every pocket
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Sep 5, 2010 01:31
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CommieGIR posted:Little story you may like: During the cash for clunkers program, a lot of Cherokees with the 4.0 were turned in. By law, the engines had to be disabled/destroyed. There's a few vids out there detailing some dealerships trying to C4C the 4.0 (and the SBC's). Those fuckers just refused to die in the typical fashion. To the 4.0's credit, some of them started right back up again after the process.... followup by sigh.... I can't for the life of me find that vid posted on Jalopnik where the dealer glasses the Cherokee, stalls it out, calls it dead, but it fires back up. Truly a  moement regarding the 4.0.fake edit, found the youtube channel, where they call the program bullshit as they attempt to glass a 4.3 chevy.
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Sep 5, 2010 02:16
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The program was a waste of perfectly good road worthy vehicles in trade for vehicles that often got WORSE gas milage than the vehicle they replaced, and threw people who couldn't afford the debt of a new car INTO that debt. I was very VERY angry about the program
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Sep 5, 2010 02:21
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I remember, actually shedding a tear at this video. I know this is a jeep thread and "Save the 4.0's" battlecry, but drat... 2009, never forget....
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Sep 5, 2010 02:28
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CommieGIR posted:If you maintain the current good engine, keep the fluids topped off and new spark plugs/wires/cap/fuel filter etc.....it will keep going till the body disintegrates from under it. The 4.0l is a VERY durable engine and its not uncommon for them to continue to function well past 300k even with lack of maintenance what about the 6.0L? 
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Sep 5, 2010 06:51
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Fatty Patty posted:what about the 6.0L? I am not terribly familiar with the 6.0l so I couldn't tell you. I saw a 4.0 bored and stroked to 5.0....sounded awesome
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Sep 5, 2010 06:53
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CommieGIR posted:I saw a 4.0 bored and stroked to 5.0....sounded awesome InitialDave fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 10:25
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CommieGIR posted:You can pull the steering wheel from a Cherokee, they came with a tilt steering wheel and it should fit in place of the CJ steering column, the main thing is you would have to either wire in the signal/washer controls and ignition or remove them giundy posted:The easier option is a CJ7, should be a quick swap out once you find one in a junk yard. Both vehicles are identical in the front. Thanks a lot guys. One more question - say I wanted to boost the power of the drums without swapping to disks, what would I be looking for exactly to accomplish this?
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Sep 5, 2010 14:17
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You could try to find a better brake booster and master cylinder. Going to discs will need a new booster and master cylinder anyway. A lot of Wagoneer guys like Hydroboost. Not sure if this will fit CJs or if there is a dedicated CJ kit out there. Also, it is pricey.
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Sep 5, 2010 14:32
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I really think you'd be better off swapping your rear axle to something like a Ford 8.8" out of a '95-up Explorer. You get a stronger axle than the AMC 20, better aftermarket support, and disc brakes for relatively minimal effort. From what I know about it, Hyrdoboost is pretty much for when you've exhausted all other brake upgrade options and your Jeep is effing huge on 40s or larger.
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Sep 5, 2010 23:15
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'74 might have drums all around, which is going to be a bit of work to swap it all out.
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Sep 5, 2010 23:20
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:'74 might have drums all around, which is going to be a bit of work to swap it all out. Yeah it's drums all around. Has a dana 30 front and 44 rear. Just wanting to up the power of the dinky drums without necessarily swapping to discs.
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Sep 5, 2010 23:46
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InitialDave posted:Didn't one of the Jeep magazines have an article where they let all their fantasies run riot on an engine (bored, stroked, forced induction etc), and it made something like 750bhp? They did, I remember seeing it too. I also saw the article they did on the Cherokee with the 2.8l CRD from the Liberty.....that thing was sexy
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Sep 6, 2010 00:34
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I know next to nothing about Jeeps, other than the fact I really want one. My friend is selling a 1990 soft-top YJ with a 1997 XJ 2.5L engine with 62k miles on it. He says there are two "minor" issues with it. 1-Sometimes, when the engine is warmed up, it won't turn off for 3-4 minutes. 2-There is a knock in one of the wheels. He wants $2000 for it, but since he really needs to sell it, will consider an lower offer. Is he charging way to much for this, and does the engine issue sound like a big problem? I appreciate any advice!
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Sep 6, 2010 01:24
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Is there anything else wrong with it? Any rust that you'll have an issue with, a decent top? If this is a 2nd car then it may not be a bad deal since it'll require work. Do you know what caused the old engine to blow? UnkleBoB posted:Yeah it's drums all around. Has a dana 30 front and 44 rear. Just wanting to up the power of the dinky drums without necessarily swapping to discs. I found a D30 and AMC20 on CL for $50 for the pair. Just shop around and you should be able to find a cheap D30 with disks up front, I wouldn't bother keeping what you have now since its an afternoon to swap it out. giundy fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 01:36
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Aeader posted:He says there are two "minor" issues with it. Is it carburated or fuel injected? There are a handful of simple reasons a carbed engine can diesel; on a fuel injected engine the reasons tend to be more complex and expensive (since there should be no fuel after shutting off a fuel-injected vehicle).
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Sep 6, 2010 05:09
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Oops, I tore the muffler off my XJ by banging off some rocks. It was worth it to see sights like this though: edit: On the plus side now I can mount my tow receiver without the exhaust getting in the way. 
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Sep 6, 2010 10:25
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Cleaned up the jeep and sprayed the whole thing with spray on bedliner. It looks about a thousand times better than it did before: for reference, the day I got it about three weeks ago: 
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Sep 7, 2010 06:16
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mod sassinator posted:Oops, I tore the muffler off my XJ by banging off some rocks. It was worth it to see sights like this though: Manashtash? or Entiat?
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Sep 7, 2010 18:13
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For all the XJ guys out there, I have a few questions. I'm looking to start getting into off roading pretty heavily, and am finally in a position where I can afford the rig, and a lot of the modifications I want to do with it. My question is which year/model is considered the "best" for the Jeep Cherokee. And with the year/model that is considered the best, what are the short comings of it? What else should I look for when purchasing a Cherokee? I know those are some loaded questions, I just really want a great base rig to work off of.
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Sep 8, 2010 02:50
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Demokracy posted:For all the XJ guys out there, I have a few questions. I'm looking to start getting into off roading pretty heavily, and am finally in a position where I can afford the rig, and a lot of the modifications I want to do with it. My question is which year/model is considered the "best" for the Jeep Cherokee. And with the year/model that is considered the best, what are the short comings of it? What else should I look for when purchasing a Cherokee? I am a big fan of the AMC years (1984-1988) of XJ
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Sep 8, 2010 03:12
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A lot of people say 97-99 is the best on paper...the AMC era XJ's have more of a nostalgic appeal just like the CJ's due to their squared-off looks, but they're certainly just as capable. A 97-99 is also going to be a lot easier to find in decent condition.
I can't think of any shortcomings other than rust, but that applies to just about all Jeeps. They saved those for 00-01 with the crack-prone #0331 head castings, low pinion D30 and the coil-on-plug ignition.
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Sep 8, 2010 04:20
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Braincloud posted:Manashtash? or Entiat? Hells Canyon, way out in the corner of Washington, Oregon and Idaho. It's one of the largest river gorges in the world and was pretty amazing.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:23
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mod sassinator posted:Hells Canyon, way out in the corner of Washington, Oregon and Idaho. It's one of the largest river gorges in the world and was pretty amazing. Ah, yeah, I've ridden my motorcycle through there. A bit of a trek from the Oly Penninsula! Since you're in WA, you should check out the Naches Trail down by Greenwater. The lower portion on the west side can get hairy in the rain, but there are quite a few bypasses. The east side is pretty straightforward and easy. The views are great along the way tho. It's a pretty fun relaxed trail. Hell, my Mom did it in her stock TJ. In other news, I put the hardtop back on the Rubi. Summer is over here in Seattle  Of course, I threw the snowboard rack on the back too so now I'm ready for winter!
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Sep 8, 2010 18:07
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Demokracy posted:For all the XJ guys out there, I have a few questions. I'm looking to start getting into off roading pretty heavily, and am finally in a position where I can afford the rig, and a lot of the modifications I want to do with it. My question is which year/model is considered the "best" for the Jeep Cherokee. And with the year/model that is considered the best, what are the short comings of it? What else should I look for when purchasing a Cherokee? '91 up is the High Output engine. Most parts are interchangeable for the '91 up XJs, so any weak points between the models can just be swapped out. There are thousands of XJs in junkyards from the Cash 4 Clunkers program, so parts are plentiful and cheap. And since you say you are getting into off roading "pretty heavily", you will probably be swapping most weak parts out anyway.
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Sep 8, 2010 19:52
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This is what happens to an '97 XJ when you fall asleep at the wheel, run into a telephone pole (which had to be replaced), and a tree... The EMT guys/paramedics/ambulance dudes said they were surprised I didn't have any injuries. I'm just super loving sore all over and have abrasions from the seatbelt. I think i'm quite lucky. Looked at a few XJs today because I need a transportation ASAP for college and work. I want another XJ just because I love them but I may buy a car (Econobox, Camry/Corolla/Accord/Civic/etc) for good gas mileage, etc. Not sure yet. But I did find a verrrry clean and maintained '99 XJ Sport that checked out on Carfax as no accidents and the dealer had receipts for everything that was done to it since it was bought (2 previous owners). It's black as well! It's $4100, so i'll probably pull the trigger and get it if I don't find anything else between now and Saturday. If I don't find anything else between now and Saturday, does $4100 sound reasonable? It's "loaded" with power windows/locks/mirrors, blows cold A/C, runs great, no damage to the exterior. Pretty much pristine for an 11 year old XJ. The Jeep I wrecked was a '97 XJ SE so it was manual windows/locks and the A/C was pretty much non-existent and it had some cosmetic damage when I bought it. Sorry for the lovely pictures, they were taken with my Droid. (my own hosting since waffleimages is down) Enjoy!    
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Sep 9, 2010 04:51
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And another XJ departs this world Glad you are okay, as long as EVERYTHING is in pristine condition, $4100 is an okay price.
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Sep 9, 2010 05:03
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Yeah $4100 seems good, I just bought a 99 sport in good shape with 150k miles for $3500. Also holy poo poo I'm glad you're ok, that looks horrific!
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Sep 9, 2010 06:41
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I tend to keep vehicles a long time and reliability is important. Soon I will be selling my '92 Ranger and '99 F-150 and I'm leaning strongly towards buying a used Wrangler but my experience with other Chrysler products has been mostly bad. My boss has a lot of experience with Cherokees and tells me they are generally very reliable vehicles. He owns two and both are well over 200k miles. So my question is this: are the Wranglers generally very reliable vehicles? I used to off-road a lot years ago when I had some old Broncos (and a Comanche I drowned in an Alaskan river) so there might be a little of that. Also daily driving and light towing. My budget would under $10k, being a Jeep neophyte what should I be looking for and is there anything I should be wary of? I'll definitely want a 4L engine.
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Sep 9, 2010 09:35
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Mechanically, yes - BUT... Earlier models with the 3-speed automatic (32RH) are a more reliable auto transmission. The later 4-speed (42RLE) is more finicky and most seem to start having problems between 100K and 150K miles unless you cool them really well and keep the fluid fresh. Both the AX-15 and NV3550 manual transmissions are good units, though the AX-15 a little less strong and is found in 97-00 Wranglers. Late '04 got the NGS370 six speed, which seems to be OK. I haven't really heard of any problems with it. There's also an issue with 05/06 4.0s wearing away the cam synchronizer and oil pump drive gear. There's a recall on this now. All earlier 4.0s don't have this problem. See: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/chrysler-paying-install-new-cam-2005-2006-owners-should-read-963235/ A Wrangler isn't the best vehicle for towing, though I've towed my cargo trailer and boat just fine, and I'll admit that I've doubled the max rated weight with my cargo trailer. I have the 4.0 with 3.07 gears and a manual transmission. If I had 3.73 or 4.10 gears it would be perfect for what and how I tow. The main issue with towing is that the trailer will tend to push you around more than it would with a longer wheelbase vehicle. Other than that, I haven't had an issue with pulling or stopping power. Look for a Wrangler with a D44 rear axle, which will have disc brakes, no gear ratio lower than 3.55, and is just stronger. You'll mostly find them in Sport, Sahara, or Unlimited (long) Wranglers. You can ID the D44 rear easily as the bottom of the differential housing has a "lopsided" look to it while the Dana 35 housing is a uniform shape. It's been said that towing with the Dana 35 rear axle is asking for trouble but I just checked mine recently and have very little R&P wear at 80K miles despite my towing activities. Don't know how the bearings look though. The only real problem I've had so far with my Wrangler has been electrical, mainly the multi-function switch that controls headlights and turn signal has had to be disassembled twice to clean and lube moving electrical contacts. The design is just bad. If I could go back and buy a Wrangler again I'd go for an '04 Unlimited with manual transmission. More space, better ride, still has the NV3550 five-speed all have D44 rears, and the '04 year avoids the cam sync issue. incredibull fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 19:33
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I think he's looking more for a YJ, where he will only find the AX-15 manual and D35's. If he's really that much into off-roading, he'll have to change to ford 8.8's (which have the disk brakes already). My '90 4.2L carb'd YJ is just a beauty. Have had it only for a year now, but it's all that I love in a Jeep. These things are like legos, and you just enjoy loads of time playing around with it.
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Sep 9, 2010 20:21
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Great info. My towing needs are very light duty. I have an aluminum jon boat that I can move by hand and a small (4x8) trailer that I occasionally haul mulch and stuff like that. I've already spotted a couple that had engine swaps to V8 (302 & 350), worth looking at? Any of the automatic transmissions any good? Unfortunately there is also a lot of stop and go traffic in this area.
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Sep 9, 2010 20:37
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Sorry I assumed that you were looking for a newer used TJ. If I was buying a YJ with a V8 swap I'd be really careful about it. Unless the drivetrain was upgraded as well, you might be looking at a time bomb as the YJ's drivetrain was really not all that strong to begin with, and a V8 is putting a strain on it. Then there's the factor of whether or not the swap was done well at all to begin with. The reliable 32RH auto can be found in YJs with the 4.0. You'll be fine towing the aluminum boat. I pull around an old heavy tri-hull bass boat with boxed frame trailer and it's no issue.
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Sep 9, 2010 20:45
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You might want to look for a YJ with upgraded tranny, but if you do score a low price-good condition 350 conversion, don't doubt the AX-15 for a long while. I believe it's rated for 600ft/lb of torque, and 350's don't exceed 500 if I'm not mistaken. There are better trannies mated to the chevy, but AX-15 is by no chance a weak transmission. If it's the AX-5, on the other hand, look away (unless you want a 2.5L)
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Sep 9, 2010 21:14
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