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After taking a spin on the CBR last night the difference in braking between the it and the KTM is astounding. Anyone have suggestions on brake pads for my 625? I'm not having much luck finding stuff for it  . I'd really like to go with a set of RLJs but it doesn't look like they make one for my bike. Maybe that caliper on the 625 is used on another bike and I could cross reference them or something?
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Sep 5, 2010 14:31
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NitroSpazzz posted:I'm listing my 07 DRZ400SM for sale locally and am trying to figure out what a reasonable price to ask for it is. Pilot Powers with about 2k on them, fairly extensive engine work, ~18k miles I think, pretty clean overall. I was thinking of tossing it up for $4k on facebook and $4.5k on craigslist and seeing if I got any bites. Is that too much or does it seem reasonable for a well maintained bike with some work? I dont know what the bike market is like in Knoxville, but in Milwaukee 4.5K is too high for that bike, 4K is more reasonable. How much of a hurry are you in to sell it? You could always post it at 4.5 and see if anyone bites, its worth a shot if you're not in a hurry. Around here anyway 3.5-4 seems to be the sweet spot for DRZSM's. What defines "extensive engine work"? If that bikes got something really crazy going on, maybe you could swing 4.5 then.
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Sep 5, 2010 16:35
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A7vuQc95cA This is how I imagine supermoto riders act no matter where they are. Also, I'm looking at a Husky TE610E that's for sale locally. Is it any good for a n00b who doesn't want to go too far of road, but isn't averse to the odd gravel road?
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Sep 5, 2010 17:28
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Phat_Albert posted:I dont know what the bike market is like in Knoxville, but in Milwaukee 4.5K is too high for that bike, 4K is more reasonable. How much of a hurry are you in to sell it? You could always post it at 4.5 and see if anyone bites, its worth a shot if you're not in a hurry. Not in a huge hurry...pry have at least another month of recovery before I will even be able to ride. Engine work is cams, piston, shims, valves, flat sides, exhaust, crank. All the good bolt on's but no big bore or anything like that.
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Sep 5, 2010 18:19
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NitroSpazzz posted:Engine work is cams, piston, shims, valves, flat sides, exhaust, crank. All the good bolt on's but no big bore or anything like that. I assume that's a high lift cam, what about the rest of the parts? What does piston, valves, and crank mean? Did you just swap in a few new stock parts? Oversize valves? Pink piston? Cantankerous crank? Sounds like you blew up the engine and rebuilt it, not exactly a selling point.
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Sep 5, 2010 21:46
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needknees posted:After taking a spin on the CBR last night the difference in braking between the it and the KTM is astounding. I've always been happy with EBC pads, I think they're the OEM ones. They are probably just glazed over. Be sure to pull off the rotor and clean it, then break in the pads properly. The KTM will have a lot of brake dive compared to the CBR, but I assume you mean it actually isn't stopping as quickly. Does the 625 have braided brake lines?
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Sep 5, 2010 21:53
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Zool posted:I've always been happy with EBC pads, I think they're the OEM ones. They are probably just glazed over. Be sure to pull off the rotor and clean it, then break in the pads properly. The KTM will have a lot of brake dive compared to the CBR, but I assume you mean it actually isn't stopping as quickly. Does the 625 have braided brake lines? Yes, I'm talking about actual power v. brake dive. Lever feel is decent but it's lacking in power. The 625 does have braided lines. I'll try cleaning the rotor -- my CBR's brakes felt a bit better after taking simple green + scotch brite pad to the rotors.
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Sep 6, 2010 00:16
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This is the supermotard thread. Its not brake dive, its you being a wimp and not lifting the back wheel
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Sep 6, 2010 01:32
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:This is the supermotard thread. Its not brake dive, its you being a wimp and not lifting the back wheel  ...I spent nearly an hour loving around in a big parking lot on thursday night playing around with the balance point on wheelies (read: trying to find how high the loving bp is!) and learning how to do stoppies. I can roll them from ~30mph now! Really though I feel the bike is lacking in the brake department. It's not BAD, it just isn't what I think it should be. Maybe the CBR just has amazingly good brakes? They didn't seem that good comparing them with the S1000RR I rode. Who knows. I just love to bitch.
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Sep 6, 2010 01:43
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When braking sit on the very back of the seat. The only the the CBR felt like it had better brakes was because they could bite harder without flipping rider and getting the most out the tire. I know you aren't maxxing out the front wheel braking traction on the KTM.
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Sep 6, 2010 01:59
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:When braking sit on the very back of the seat. The only the the CBR felt like it had better brakes was because they could bite harder without flipping rider and getting the most out the tire. I know you aren't maxxing out the front wheel braking traction on the KTM. Considering I've locked the front a few times I'd say I'm pretty close... granted these tires are lovely and ~4 years old but still. Coming down from high(ish) speeds there's a definite lack of braking performance.
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Sep 6, 2010 02:12
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How much life is left in the pads? You'll see a reduction in braking performance if they've been used aggressively for an extended period, pretty much a promise on any decently ridden sumo. Also, do they have fresh fluid? Step one in my book would be fresh fluid, sand down the pads, sand down the rotor, and check for any cracks in the rotor. My old KTM rotor had 4 cracks at the edges of drilled holes. There's a lot of things that can cause lovely braking performance, so it's best to start with the cheap and easy things and then work your way up to the more expensive stuff (new pads, new rotors).
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Sep 6, 2010 02:38
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Z3n posted:How much life is left in the pads? You'll see a reduction in braking performance if they've been used aggressively for an extended period, pretty much a promise on any decently ridden sumo. what kind/grit of sandpaper is good for rotors? Mine are a little grooved on the klr and I wanted to clean them up a little
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Sep 6, 2010 04:14
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690 SMC was delivered yesterday. I haven't even been able to even ride it around the block because the bike got here before the title, etc. (had the bike shipped). Coming from the FJR, I can already tell it's going to be a big change in riding style just from riding it up the driveway/around the yard a bit. If I take this thing on any rides longer than an hour or two it's going to need some more foam/a new seat, the stocker is like riding a lightly upholstered 2x4. My bony rear end isn't up for that.
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Sep 6, 2010 05:27
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You paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the edge
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Sep 6, 2010 07:19
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Spiffness posted:You paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the edge 
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Sep 6, 2010 09:10
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Z3n posted:How much life is left in the pads? You'll see a reduction in braking performance if they've been used aggressively for an extended period, pretty much a promise on any decently ridden sumo. Considering the guy I got it from bought it new four years ago and only put 3100 miles on it, it still has the OEM tires on it (with tread left even!), stock chain, etc. I don't think it was ridden THAT hard  . Honestly my bet is on what Zool mentioned - because it wasn't ridden hard the pads and rotor got glazed over, ruining performance. I could be totally wrong but given the shape this thing is (was) in I tend to believe it.
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Sep 6, 2010 14:29
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Jazzzzz posted:690 SMC was delivered yesterday. I haven't even been able to even ride it around the block because the bike got here before the title, etc. (had the bike shipped). You just have to give it some time to break in. Not the seat, your rear end.
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Sep 7, 2010 01:53
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I learned a valuable lesson today -- while the 625 looks like a dirtbike it is not actually a dirtbike  . Honestly I was shocked at how well it did at the OHV area with lovely mostly bald street tires. I let a friend ride my CR250 and I took the KTM around. There really wasn't many places I didn't feel comfortable taking it. The extra weight of it compared to a true dirtbike was very obvious though. You could definitely tell it was out of its element. The suspension bottomed a number of times - mostly from me casing poo poo, but it also would bottom on step-downs and the like. Felt pretty sluggish in the air.But, the simple fact that I could take the bike I rode to work every day last week to a little motocross track / trails and have a shitload of fun? Awesome. Video of me being an idiot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cq-YWo-tJWo As you can tell, I crashed! Lamely! . I was feeling pretty comfortable on the stepdown leading to the triple step-up thing and carried a bit more speed over it. Hit the stepup with about the same speed I normally do on the dirtbike, shouldn't have done this... I was in second gear, and even though I landed on the face of the jump at the right angle the suspension bottomed out and I lost all forward drive. Since I was in second the bike wasn't too keen to, uh, run. Cue me sliding backwards down a steep rear end hill then practicing back somersaults. Best thing about this lovely wreck? It did nothing to the bike or me. 
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Sep 7, 2010 03:07
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You should do all your crashes in reverse, that was a good one! 
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Sep 7, 2010 09:19
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Saga posted:You should do all your crashes in reverse, that was a good one!
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Sep 7, 2010 18:48
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3QR-juufCg A supermoto caught in the rare moments of it's evolution before the wheels are reduced in size and the brakes expand.
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Sep 8, 2010 01:09
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Z3n posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3QR-juufCg Knobbies do offer excellent grip on stairs, curbs and other obstacles.
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Sep 8, 2010 16:19
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I would like to thank KTM's engineers for designing THE MOST loving ANNOYING REAR CALIPER BRACKET EVER. That is all. 
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Sep 9, 2010 08:07
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needknees posted:I would like to thank KTM's engineers for designing THE MOST loving ANNOYING REAR CALIPER BRACKET EVER. Should have bought a DRZ with a big bore kit, upgraded carb, upgraded suspension, upgraded front brake, upgraded master cylinder, upgraded front rotor, upgraded cams, upgraded base gasket, upgraded bars
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Sep 9, 2010 17:23
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Step 1: buy DRZ Step 2: upgrade a bunch of stuff Step 3: build new DRZ out of replaced parts
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Sep 9, 2010 17:57
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In my mind its always more fun to build performance than just outright buy it. I realize that the money I spend building bikes up could have just bought the better bike right off the bat, but its just not as fun. Its not monetarily sound, but dammit if it isnt fun as hell.
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Sep 9, 2010 18:05
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Phat_Albert posted:In my mind its always more fun to build performance than just outright buy it. I realize that the money I spend building bikes up could have just bought the better bike right off the bat, but its just not as fun. The issue with that for the area I'm in at least, is I bought this 625 with basically no miles and in excellent condition for the same price or less than what OLDER DRZ-SMs go for. I have no idea why the DRZs hold their value so insanely well around here. You're hard pressed to find a 06 with less than 10k on it for $4k. Cherry 625SMC with 3100 miles or an older, beat to gently caress, mostly stock DRZ with 10k+ miles for the same money? Easy choice! Well, maybe not so easy if I realized how loving RETARDED THAT BRAKE CALIPER BRACKET WAS 
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Sep 9, 2010 18:12
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It's the same here. Low mileage Husky and KTM sumos are going for around the same prices as the thrashed high-mile DRZs. It's terribly tempting to just buy one, but as a new rider with very few survival instincts I realize I'll just be signing my own death warrant.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:20
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Symphoric posted:It's the same here. Low mileage Husky and KTM sumos are going for around the same prices as the thrashed high-mile DRZs. It's terribly tempting to just buy one, but as a new rider with very few survival instincts I realize I'll just be signing my own death warrant. Granted I haven't ridden a 690, but a bike like my 625 wouldn't be a HORRIBLE bike for a new rider. Not the best by any means but not an instant death trap. Yes, it'll wheelie and stoppie but once you're out of first gear being slightly hamfisted on the gas isn't going to fling you off the back. Brakes are powerful but not overly touchy. riding position is great, visibility is great -- it works awesome in town. It's like a stock DRZ on steroids.
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Sep 9, 2010 20:35
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I taught my friend how to ride my 520 and that'll pop the wheel up really easy in third gear even, but she had no problems with the bike other than managing the tallness of it. But supermotos are great beginner bikes so long as you aren't going to get crazy in first gear or jam on the brakes. Super awesome maneuverability and lightness that is great for someone new. Even if you do crash, Hey its a dirtbike!
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Sep 9, 2010 21:07
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqKShV-iN5M How supermotos unwind
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Sep 10, 2010 02:04
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Phat_Albert posted:In my mind its always more fun to build performance than just outright buy it. I realize that the money I spend building bikes up could have just bought the better bike right off the bat, but its just not as fun. As someone who agrees with you on this, I will point out the downside and reason I haven't posted round here recently. Being mid-upgrade then suddenly getting busy as hell with other things == no loving motorcycle to ride for over a month oh god someone please lend me a scooter or something before I do something stupid
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Sep 10, 2010 02:42
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pr0zac posted:As someone who agrees with you on this, I will point out the downside and reason I haven't posted round here recently. Being mid-upgrade then suddenly getting busy as hell with other things == no loving motorcycle to ride for over a month oh god someone please lend me a scooter or something before I do something stupid I'm the super crazy type who's just as happy wrenching as I am riding. I love them both equally, and find them both equally soothing. Probably why I'm really drawn towards simple, well engineered bikes, because they're actually quite wonderful to work on. I generally try to have one working bike at all times so I dont get stuck in that situation, but obviously it happens if you love wrenching AND have only one bike.
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Sep 10, 2010 02:56
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I ran out of gas at 66 miles on the last drz tank. It took 4 gallons (in a 3.9 gallon tank  ). I was concerned about why my mileage was so lovely until it dawned on me...the speedo reads off the front wheel. I may need to relocate the speedo pickup to the rear wheel.Supermotos are the best 
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Sep 10, 2010 05:47
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Z3n posted:I ran out of gas at 66 miles on the last drz tank. It took 4 gallons (in a 3.9 gallon tank It's simple. Do more stoppies. Changed the oil (seriously what the gently caress, KTM??? Anyone got a good way to fill the frame?) and flushed the brakes tonight, had a chance to try out the tires I put on last night. I got the brakes feeling a little bit better but they just don't seem to have the power they should . I cleaned/sanded the rotor with simple green and a scotch brite pad and sanded the pads down a little bit with some fine sandpaper. Definitely better but it takes a very healthy squeeze to haul things down from 80 or so. The same pressure on my cbr would be locking poo poo up. the new tires definitely make stoppies easier though  Speaking of the tires I put on, what kind of pressures should I be starting at for (full size) track riding on Contiforce SMs? How about street pressures?
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Sep 10, 2010 06:33
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This thread is not helping quell my lusting for a supermoto Are there any differences (beyond colours/graphics) to be aware of between the drz sm model years?
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Sep 10, 2010 10:13
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Spiffness posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqKShV-iN5M Watch this again. He just RAN OVER HIS OWN FOOT. SUPERMOTOS MAKE YOU RUN OVER YOUR OWN FEET.
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Sep 10, 2010 13:26
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TheFonz posted:Watch this again. He just RAN OVER HIS OWN FOOT. Where do I sign up!
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Sep 10, 2010 22:04
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The SMC vibrated too much and one of my rear indicators went all  So I bought some impossibly small LED ones and decided to relocated them up under the rear fairing and do a DIY tail-tidy. Before  After 
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Sep 12, 2010 12:34
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