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ChaoticSeven posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_ex_n_0?rh=i:aps,k:milwaukee+router+bit&keywords=milwaukee+router+bit&ie=UTF8&qid=1281888219 Thanks, Just got 6 bits I actually needed for less than half what amazon normally charges (their "suggested retail" prices are insane) Great deal
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Aug 16, 2010 00:58
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Just to be clear: up cut "pushes" towards the shank end of the bit, i.e. towards the router, and down cut pushes towards the free end of the bit, i.e. away from the router? Or do I have that backwards? I'm just thinking about getting a couple of those for my little cnc mill, and I want the bit to push the object being cut away from the router.
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Aug 16, 2010 01:26
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Bad Munki posted:Just to be clear: up cut "pushes" towards the shank end of the bit, i.e. towards the router, and down cut pushes towards the free end of the bit, i.e. away from the router? Or do I have that backwards? I'm just thinking about getting a couple of those for my little cnc mill, and I want the bit to push the object being cut away from the router. You've got it right. Down cut in that situation will pack the kerf with chips (which can be a good thing as it can help to keep the piece in place) but generally can run a bit hotter. Upcut will help get the chips out and into your dust collector, if you have one.
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Aug 16, 2010 04:36
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Well, I'll probably be cutting pretty slow at first, and I'd rather have the bit force the workpiece down onto the table rather than having to worry about making sure it's mounted down against a lifting force. On the other hand, it's too bad, because it looks like they're out of the down cut spiral bit. 
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Aug 16, 2010 04:39
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Anybody have a good blog/forum/list/etc for getting into all hand-tool woodworking? I've been doing basic stuff most of my life (cabinets, houses, ugly bookshelves, etc) that basically involves a table saw and a chopbox and a lot of screws. I've never once made any joints more complicated than a butt joint. I want to abandon the majority of my tools and build stuff entirely by hand. Big jobs like ripping I've still got a table saw and a radial arm saw and such. I've got some old decent chisels, a couple different stanley planes that need some serious love and attention and no decent hand saws. The big bummer is that I need to discover some room and build at least a small bench with a proper wood vise. I don't even know where to start with that particular project. e: I lied. I did a mortise and tenon with a chisel and a saw once and then pinned and glued it together. I forget why, but for some reason it was the only thing that would work. It was vastly more fun than running a couple drywall screws in. My whole family has a penchant for overbuilding the everliving gently caress out of everything. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 04:43
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ChaoticSeven posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_ex_n_0?rh=i:aps,k:milwaukee+router+bit&keywords=milwaukee+router+bit&ie=UTF8&qid=1281888219 And here I am trying to save money for a table saw.  The list price on some of these are hilarious, btw. It just makes it look that much more of a deal, which makes me want to buy them all... (I won't, though, obviously)
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Aug 16, 2010 09:31
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ChaoticSeven posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_ex_n_0?rh=i:aps,k:milwaukee+router+bit&keywords=milwaukee+router+bit&ie=UTF8&qid=1281888219 Jeez, that panel cutter is actually a really good deal. Picked up 3 bits and had to add a 5 pack of galvanized bolts for 15c to get the free shipping. :P
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Aug 16, 2010 16:03
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GEMorris posted:You've got it right. Down cut in that situation will pack the kerf with chips (which can be a good thing as it can help to keep the piece in place) but generally can run a bit hotter. Upcut will help get the chips out and into your dust collector, if you have one. Upcut will leave the top surface pretty "burred" but can usually be cleaned up with a little 200 grit. Downcut leaves the surface clean but the "bottom" of the cut can be more messy. A lot of people prefer downcut for work with composites and plywood since it (usually) won't end up delaminating the top layers. For CNC work, a lot of guys I know prefer Precise Bits in bulk but having a $50 minimum is pretty annoying when the bits are so cheap. Other people swear by the much more expensive Whiteside or Onsrud bits. The tooling forum on CNCZone is slow, so you pretty much just have to talk to a lot of people and ask questions till you start to get the hang of it all. El_Matarife fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 18:49
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El_Matarife posted:Upcut will leave the top surface pretty "burred" but can usually be cleaned up with a little 200 grit. Downcut leaves the surface clean but the "bottom" of the cut can be more messy. A lot of people prefer downcut for work with composites and plywood since it (usually) won't end up delaminating the top layers. The other option would be compression bits, i.e. upcut and downcut that meet in the middle. Downside: boy howdy they are pricey.
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Aug 16, 2010 20:33
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I picked up the Taunton's Illustrated Guide to Woodworking for retards,and it's been interesting reading. A lot of things I thought might be really complicated really aren't as long as you have the right tool. I don't feel like I need to have a shop full of power tools any more, either, which is nice. Learning the basics is a good thing! I think I'll check out the classes at Home Depot and Lowes to see what they offer and get some hands on experience, too.
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Aug 17, 2010 04:04
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El_Matarife posted:Precise Bits Thank you so much for pointing out this site. It's an awesome source for bits, has lots of good regular information, and all comes wrapped up in a familiar-feeling late 90's/early 2000's web design.  Seriously, though, it looks like they have really good product. I'm particularly interested in the (optional) depth stops they offer on many of their bits. Anything to make repeatability easier is good, in my opinion. Also, high speed (20k rpm up to 100k rpm) drill bits down to #88?! What the heck would you ever need a bit that small for? Oh, and shell-cutting bits down to the same (or very nearly so, at .01")? Now that is awesome! I might have to get a couple of those bits and see about picking up some abalone next time I visit the homestead.  Super excited about this place. For anyone that has trouble googling: http://www.precisebits.com/
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Aug 17, 2010 05:25
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Further more, Onsrud has written tons of great documentation over the years on the right router bits for the right job: http://www.multicamnw.com/support/manual/onsrud_routing_guide.pdf and various manufacturers catalogs are great sources of information.
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Aug 17, 2010 12:26
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Nostratic posted:I don't feel like I need to have a shop full of power tools any more, either, which is nice. That's a drat dirty lie and don't you ever let my wife hear you say that!
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Aug 17, 2010 15:20
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Anubis posted:That's a drat dirty lie and don't you ever let my wife hear you say that! Oh, well, I mean, as a TOTAL noob I don't HAVE to have them, but anybody with even a SMIDGEN of experience beyond mine  edit: One other question, where do you guys get your lumber? Lumber yard or a home store like Home Depot? I've got both in abundance here in Houston, but I haven't read anything yet advocating one or the other. a mysterious cloak fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 20:46
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So, I've been getting the router bits in I ordered over the past few days. Wow. These things are really Freud bits. The $10 raised panel bit? A loving rebranded Freud quadra cut. I haven't checked back on what's left, but, I'd recommend you guys pick up the rabbeting bit set and the chamfer bit at the very least. Glad I ordered these. Edit: Both are sold out. I was going to order some more of each, oh well. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Aug 18, 2010 23:36
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Nostratic posted:edit: One other question, where do you guys get your lumber? Lumber yard or a home store like Home Depot? I've got both in abundance here in Houston, but I haven't read anything yet advocating one or the other. It kinda depends on what your doing. If I'm making something for the garage or basement, some plywood with a basic 2x4 frame from home depot can be appropriate, but you won't actually find good quality hardwood in a big box store.
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Aug 19, 2010 01:11
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ChaoticSeven posted:So, I've been getting the router bits in I ordered over the past few days. Wow. These things are really Freud bits. The $10 raised panel bit? A loving rebranded Freud quadra cut. I haven't checked back on what's left, but, I'd recommend you guys pick up the rabbeting bit set and the chamfer bit at the very least. Glad I ordered these. Got all my bits today. Best $30 I've spent in a while. I picked up the flush trim, chamfer, round nose, paneling, and rabbeting bit.
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Aug 19, 2010 05:06
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Finished the pergola. Came out around $500.  
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Aug 19, 2010 22:56
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Can anybody identify what this thing is? My best guess is something for mortising. Seems like the thing on the left (which is upside down) would attach to a drill press, but I'll be damned if I have any idea what the thing on the right is or if it is even assembled correctly at the moment.
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Aug 22, 2010 10:30
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SkunkDuster posted:Can anybody identify what this thing is? My best guess is something for mortising. Seems like the thing on the left (which is upside down) would attach to a drill press, but I'll be damned if I have any idea what the thing on the right is or if it is even assembled correctly at the moment. Your friend it right, it looks like a Delta mortising attachment for a drill press. I can't tell you if it is assembled correctly, but you should be able to find a scanned manual out there now that you know what you are looking for.
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Aug 22, 2010 19:46
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GEMorris posted:Your friend it right, it looks like a Delta mortising attachment for a drill press. Sure enough, thanks! Too bad there seems to be a few key parts missing. It was free stuff that came from when a friend was cleaning his garage out, so no loss. I'll just stick with cutting mortises the manly way with a hammer and a chisel.
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Aug 23, 2010 04:56
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Anyone know of a good place in Missouri near Columbia to buy hardwood lumber?
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Aug 23, 2010 20:08
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I'm looking to start a couple woodworking projects (basic stuff -- bookshelf, box, etc) and I'm looking for some material. This is close to me: http://columbus.craigslist.org/mat/1861107458.html Is this a fair price, or should I be bargaining the seller down some?
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Aug 26, 2010 18:40
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meatpimp posted:I'm looking to start a couple woodworking projects (basic stuff -- bookshelf, box, etc) and I'm looking for some material. For that price I would want to pick over it. If he insists you take it all I wouldn't pay over 1.50-1.75 a bf.
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Aug 26, 2010 18:59
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Table update! Construction and oiling is complete, just need to lacquer the poo poo out of it.   [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/5134344446b7ee1e3cfc365c3a9264843dd19cf4/IMG_0558[1].jpg[/img] MarshallX fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Aug 29, 2010 |
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Aug 29, 2010 16:31
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Nice, crazy grain on that wood.
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Aug 31, 2010 02:02
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ChaoticSeven posted:Nice, crazy grain on that wood. It's a fantastic batch of burled walnut. The discussion of keeping the knots to keep the burl was of huge debate between myself and a few other woodworkers at my office. Ultimately I decided to epoxy them in. What do you guys think? It's not quite as orange as these pictures are making it out to be, I'm quite happy with how it's turning out
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Aug 31, 2010 13:43
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I think knots are fine. I usually do some sort of tinted epoxy on knots or any voids. Like that bench I did with the bow ties, or that table I've been working on for years but haven't made the legs like a retard. Heres my third bowl, some kind of oak from a road side rescue.   
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Aug 31, 2010 20:43
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/\/\ Might have missed it earlier, but how are you turning those bowls?
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Sep 2, 2010 13:56
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I bought a Delta 46-460 about a month ago. (and a grinder,and a wolverine jig, and a vari-grind jig, and a Supernova 2 scroll chuck, several Sorby gouges/skews, another chuck, 2 Norton white wheels, a bajillion pen blanks, bottle stopper blanks, bottle stopper hardware, pen hardware, 16 ounce bottles of CA, couple sets of Micro Mesh, drove 350 miles one way to get my band saw... The list goes on. It's ridiculous.)
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Sep 2, 2010 22:47
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I got a real cheap lathe this week and turned a small spindle/candlestick holder for practice today. It's a 39" off brand lathe (aluminum body, 1/2hp) that I picked up for $100. Spent twice that on a good set of turning tools but I figure the turning tools will last a lifetime if I treat them right. I figured turning might be a fun hobby for after work when I don't have the time to work on my larger projects.
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Sep 3, 2010 07:26
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Just chiming in to say I'm insanely jealous of your lathe and bowl Chaotic- beautiful grain on that wood.
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Sep 3, 2010 14:05
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A while ago I laminated a bunch of 3/4" acx strips ripped at 3/2" Yesterday I finally got around to Applying danish oil. 15 sqft and three pints of oil. I kept trying to flood the surface but it soaked too much up. Now that it's cured it doesn't have much if any luster. I'm assuming coat number 3, since 2 has cured for 14hrs, won't soak in and will add sheen. Am I right, or should I just start with the paste wax?
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Sep 4, 2010 16:38
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Anubis, my turning teacher who apprenticed with ernie conover says if you can get a basic lathe + tooling for less than 300$, you've done well.
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Sep 5, 2010 17:23
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My dad wants to get me some shop tools for my birthday, and despite (or maybe because of) reading through this thread at least twice, I'm not entirely sure what I should have him spend money on. What I've got now is.. not much, but it's let me build (just about as incorrectly as possible, what with the bad measuring and using drywall screws to hold everything together) some basic things like a couple desks, some shelving units for the basement, and a dollhouse for my wife's preschool class. Now that I've actually got a house, though, I want to start building some decent custom furniture for my weirdly sized and shaped rooms. My poor excuse for a shop looks like this right now:  Basically a hollow-core interior door (my old desk) on some 2x4s and a cheap Ikea shelf. As far as tools, I've somehow ended up with three jigsaws (I haven't gotten good results with the two newer ones, and the old one works well but scares me because of the power switch configuration), two sanders, a scroll saw and small drill press that I found while cleaning out my wife's mom's house, and two circular saws. If I don't want my dad spending more than $500 or so, what should I be asking for? Would I be better off with, say, a router and some good planes/chisels/hand saws, or an inexpensive table saw, or band saw, or compound mitre saw, or something else entirely?
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Sep 6, 2010 00:23
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Bah, someone around where I live must be clearing out their shop. They're selling a grizzly 6" jointer ($200), 15" planer ($225), and cabinet saw ($350). Too bad I'm poor/have no space/too busy with other projects.dur posted:If I don't want my dad spending more than $500 or so, what should I be asking for? Would I be better off with, say, a router and some good planes/chisels/hand saws, or an inexpensive table saw, or band saw, or compound mitre saw, or something else entirely? If I had a $500 budget I'd get a sliding compound miter saw, EZ smart tracksaw guide, router, and clamps
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Sep 6, 2010 04:29
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dyne posted:If I had a $500 budget I'd get a sliding compound miter saw, EZ smart tracksaw guide, router, and clamps These are excellent suggestions but you'll also want some decent chisels. I have a set of Marples Blue Chip and I can make them sharper than a razor. The 3/8" gets the most use. Inexpensive table saws aren't very useful unless you're a carpenter hauling it from jobsite to jobsite, save up until you can drop $800 or more on a contractor or cabinet saw.
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Sep 6, 2010 05:47
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dyne posted:If I had a $500 budget I'd get a sliding compound miter saw, EZ smart tracksaw guide, router, and clamps wormil posted:These are excellent suggestions but you'll also want some decent chisels. I have a set of Marples Blue Chip and I can make them sharper than a razor. The 3/8" gets the most use. Inexpensive table saws aren't very useful unless you're a carpenter hauling it from jobsite to jobsite, save up until you can drop $800 or more on a contractor or cabinet saw. Thanks for the help, guys!
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Sep 6, 2010 18:32
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I got a deal on my ez smart track a while back from some tool website. Otherwise, I think it's direct from him or used. I love it, and it makes much nicer cuts than my $150 table saw edit: and if I were buying a cheap sliding compound miter saw I'd get that craftsman 7 1/4" one for around $100. I have a 10" one that I lug around all the time and it's a pain in the rear end, and the only advantage it has is that it has a greater depth of cut. dyne fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 18:51
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dyne posted:...and the only advantage it has is that it has a greater depth of cut. I find this to be a significant advantage though. I started with a 7 1/4" and it just wasn't very useful for my projects. Then I bought a 10" saw and often wish I had a 12". Mine isn't sliding though, just a straight chop saw.
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Sep 6, 2010 20:53
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