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Hmm. Well, here's another question then: initially my B-pillar wind noise was fixed by adjusting the doors, however I noticed recently that the doors seems to rub against the interior plastic panels a bit (around the fuse box cover area and corresponding section on the other side). Doesn't seem like a major issue, but was door alignment an improper fix for wind noise then? I also noticed that there's quite a bit of wind noise from the front towards where the mirrors are, mostly on the right side for some reason.
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Aug 27, 2010 00:25
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Here's what it looks like if this helps Gap between passenger door and dash, not very visible I guess but it's relatively even and is about 1cm wide, maybe 1.5 at its widest (towards the top):  Gap between driver's door and dash, starts off about as wide as the other side at the top but tapers down to absolutely nothing quickly. The lower part opposite the headlight switch is what's rubbing against the lower part of the dash, around the fuse box cover area.  Is this a concern and can it get fixed? Door doesn't make any noise in that area as far as I can tell, but it seems pretty obviously misaligned...
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Aug 28, 2010 06:08
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I get a bit of wind noise on the highway when I am doing 60+ Is that something that TSB corrects or am I just driving too fast? NJ Parkway you have no choice sometimes, traffic will be doing 70 even if the speed limit is 55.
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Aug 28, 2010 06:37
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Autism, go to dealers and look at the GTIs on the lot. If there is a clear difference in the door sealing between them and your car then not only is yours clearly defected, you can easily demonstrate it to the dealer and try to have it fixed.
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Aug 28, 2010 07:15
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my1999gsr posted:We don't get the 2.5 TDI motor in North America so I'm at a loss for literature to help you out. The parts dept. at your local dealer can't help you? Nah, they won't give me info that might result in me not paying their extortionate labour rates. I hoped there might be some Eurogoons with this engine but it seems pretty rare even in the bigger Audis.
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Aug 28, 2010 13:21
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Autism Sundae posted:Here's what it looks like if this helps I see what you're talking about now. The inner door panels on the A5-style Jetta/Golf/GTI are held to the door frames by by some pain in the rear end clips that have to be reset before the door panel can be re-installed and some techs don't realize that. If the clips aren't reset when the panel gets re-installed it doesn't fit right and as a result there's some contact between it and the dash.
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Aug 28, 2010 15:19
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Huh. So you're saying it's the plastic door panel that's popping out a bit, not the whole door being misaligned? Makes sense, I was trying to find some evidence of the driver's door being pushed in from the outside but it looks completely flush with the body. Thanks!CGameProgrammer posted:Autism, go to dealers and look at the GTIs on the lot. If there is a clear difference in the door sealing between them and your car then not only is yours clearly defected, you can easily demonstrate it to the dealer and try to have it fixed. If it comes to that I definitely will, however the service advisor I have been going to is actually pretty good about these things and it's pretty obvious in person, much more visible than in photos.
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Aug 28, 2010 16:35
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JHVH-1 posted:I get a bit of wind noise on the highway when I am doing 60+ From the front of the car or right by your ear towards the b-pillar?
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Aug 28, 2010 16:38
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komradekommissar posted:Hello, I still think it might be the intake air flow sensor gone bad/dirty, but that's a job and a half. Plus, one of the vacuum lines was disconnected (I think it was a secondary vacuum line attached to the coolant sensor line - correct me if I'm wrong) but reconnecting it didn't do anything. Any K-Jet supergeniuses out there? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Aug 29, 2010 |
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Aug 29, 2010 03:38
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Update: dealer says door panel touching dash on driver's side is normal and by design, didn't have time to get them to show me another GTI because I was late for work. At least they updated some software and washed my car.
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Sep 1, 2010 01:56
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8.6k Miles. 2 TSBs, 2 RECALLS. 1 blown speaker (thanks bitch). VW ownership at its finest.
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Sep 1, 2010 10:51
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I need a rubber hydraulic line for an '89 Audi 200 Quattro. The rubber line I need to replace is for the clutch system. It goes from the slave cylinder to a hard line mounted on the inner fender. The local import store I usually buy parts from said they could not get this line as it is no longer made. This is the same response I have heard from every online retailer I have emailed as well. I could get a used one but I am worried about putting another twenty year old piece of rubber on the car. Does anyone have any ideas on where I could get this part?
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Sep 1, 2010 14:11
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Hatebreed posted:8.6k Miles. 2 TSBs, 2 RECALLS. 1 blown speaker (thanks bitch). VW ownership at its finest. GTI?
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Sep 1, 2010 15:08
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Any idea how bad the automatic transmission in the a4 wagon sucks? It's an actual auto, right, and not DSG? I'm making the list of potential family cars and the a4 wagon looks good, but the auto part stinks. The A3 at least has DSG w/ quattro but it may not be big enough. I really want an S4 avant but that isn't an option in the US.
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Sep 1, 2010 18:44
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havelock posted:Any idea how bad the automatic transmission in the a4 wagon sucks? It's an actual auto, right, and not DSG? In the B8 Avant? Correct, it is not a DSG. I drove an auto B8 as a loaner last week and the fact that it was an auto was the worst part of it. I later test drove a manual B8, and it made a ton of difference. Regardless of whether I got a manual or an automatic B8, the first stop I'd make after leaving the dealer would be the nearest APR tuner. The A3 is pretty small, especially when you consider how much bigger the B8 is than the B7. Also, I'd give up my firstborn for a new S4 Avant. DropShadow fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 20:42
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It's listed as "Eight-speed Tiptronic® transmission" by Audi. I thought it was a CVT for some reason.
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Sep 1, 2010 21:14
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DropShadow posted:In the B8 Avant? Correct, it is not a DSG. I drove an auto B8 as a loaner last week and the fact that it was an auto was the worst part of it. I later test drove a manual B8, and it made a ton of difference. Regardless of whether I got a manual or an automatic B8, the first stop I'd make after leaving the dealer would be the nearest APR tuner. The A3 is pretty small, especially when you consider how much bigger the B8 is than the B7. I like everything about the B8 Avant better than the BMW 328 wagon except the transmission. The BMW is just powerfully ugly. The only other thing I can think of to cross shop is an WRX/STI but that's giving up a lot of comfort/luxury.
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Sep 1, 2010 21:57
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havelock posted:I like everything about the B8 Avant better than the BMW 328 wagon except the transmission. The BMW is just powerfully ugly. Have you looked for certified B7 Avants? I'm biased, of course, but I absolutely love mine. When I looked last week, there were a couple certified manual Avants on audiusa.com.
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Sep 1, 2010 22:11
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DropShadow posted:Have you looked for certified B7 Avants? I'm biased, of course, but I absolutely love mine. When I looked last week, there were a couple certified manual Avants on audiusa.com. Those are still on my list, though the fuel economy for them is terrible (worse than even the STi). Someone who lives near me has a bright yellow one and I always turn my head to look when I see his car.
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Sep 1, 2010 22:12
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havelock posted:Those are still on my list, though the fuel economy for them is terrible (worse than even the STi). Someone who lives near me has a bright yellow one and I always turn my head to look when I see his car. What fuel economy are you looking for? I get about 21mpg around town and I have a leadfoot. I just drove to Des Moines from Minneapolis and back over the weekend and got 33mpg on the highway with average speeds between 75-85mph. If I drive conservatively (which is rare), 25 city/36 highway is easy. Edit: It occurs to me you might be looking at S4s. If that's the case, consider the 2.0T. Mine can easily keep up with my buddies' B6 S4s and all I've done performance-wise is an APR chip. APR exhaust and a high-flow cat are in the plan for the near future. DropShadow fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 23:59
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DropShadow posted:What fuel economy are you looking for? I get about 21mpg around town and I have a leadfoot. I just drove to Des Moines from Minneapolis and back over the weekend and got 33mpg on the highway with average speeds between 75-85mph. If I drive conservatively (which is rare), 25 city/36 highway is easy. Yeah I was. 13/20 kinda sucks, especially for only 340hp (I've got an m3 now and that's about 16/24 for 333). Having really owned NA cars before I forget about the potential for cheap power reflashing turbo cars. I'll check out the 2.0Ts.
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Sep 2, 2010 00:34
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Laura-4-Lyfe posted:I need a rubber hydraulic line for an '89 Audi 200 Quattro. The rubber line I need to replace is for the clutch system. It goes from the slave cylinder to a hard line mounted on the inner fender. The local import store I usually buy parts from said they could not get this line as it is no longer made. This is the same response I have heard from every online retailer I have emailed as well. Depending on the inner/outer diametre of hose you need, you may be able to use hose from another VAG product. I remember having trying to seek out a similar line for my '86 5000. I ended up ordering in the equivalent hose for my '92 Eurovan and shortening the rubber end slightly. The Eurovan was designed using a lot of of the running gear from the 5000/100/200 line.
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Sep 2, 2010 05:37
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Autism Sundae posted:GTI? MY10. I'm gonna drop her off at the dealership tomorrow to take care of the rear windshield premature ejaculation issue and the blown speaker. God help them if they don't give me a loaner.
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Sep 2, 2010 06:54
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My 2001 VW Jetta died on me Tuesday afternoon. I was on the highway and the gas pedal stopped having any effect on how fast the car was going. When in drive, the pedal would make the engine rev as though I were in neutral, but the wheels wouldn't turn. When I put it in manual first, I could get up to about 15 mph and limped to a nearby service station that way. They told me they didn't do automatic transmissions there and AAA towed me to a place that did. They called me today with the estimate - it's an internal issue with the transmission, which is exactly what I was afraid of. I had mentally prepared myself to hear, at most, $2000 as an estimate, but the guy told me $3200 plus tax. I've had the car for years, it's at 111,000 miles and has given me at least a little bit of grief ever since I've had it - I checked the blue book value and got a range of value from about $3500 to $4500. I'm tempted to say the hell with it and see if I can sell it for parts, but I wasn't sure what other information, if any, I needed before making such a decision. The most work I've ever personally put in on the car was a few oil changes and replacing the light bulbs, so I feel a little in over my head. Can anyone offer any advice?
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Sep 2, 2010 13:35
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Hatebreed posted:MY10. I'm gonna drop her off at the dealership tomorrow to take care of the rear windshield premature ejaculation issue and the blown speaker. God help them if they don't give me a loaner. Welcome, none of this will be fixed by the way (at least not on the first try).
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Sep 2, 2010 19:06
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Autism Sundae posted:Welcome, none of this will be fixed by the way (at least not on the first try). Uneventful. I turned down a Prius loaner in lieu of using their shuttle. Doing 10K service 1.2k early, entire front passenger door speakers will be replaced under warranty. I'll have a bunch of Recall/TSB numbers for you guys when I finally go through this week's paperwork. My flash was wiped last week for the BCM software flash so next week I'll have to get my ECU cracked open again.
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Sep 2, 2010 19:43
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Buzkashi posted:My 2001 VW Jetta died on me Tuesday afternoon. I was on the highway and the gas pedal stopped having any effect on how fast the car was going. When in drive, the pedal would make the engine rev as though I were in neutral, but the wheels wouldn't turn. When I put it in manual first, I could get up to about 15 mph and limped to a nearby service station that way. They told me they didn't do automatic transmissions there and AAA towed me to a place that did. Call around to your local auto wreckers and get a better price. I had a customer last week that destroyed his transmission and our estimate was almost identical to the one you got but he called around and got a tranny for $500 (I think) and I installed it for 4.5 hours of labor. That's a far more reasonable price than $3200+tax.
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Sep 2, 2010 21:54
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havelock posted:reflashing turbo cars the best part about reflashing turbo 4-cyl cars is that they typically make better mileage after the reflash than before, so long as you can keep your foot off the happy pedal (you won't be able to do this thing) Buzkashi posted:2001 those auto transmissions are notorious for dying around the 100k mark, but if the car has been otherwise reliable there's no reason not to find a reman transmission and put it in primitive fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 00:39
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My '10 GTI decided to be a Volkswagen today and gave me an EPC light when I started it up away from home. It wasn't accompanied by a CEL and the engine didn't seem to be running roughly, so I got it home. Once I got home, I stopped and started the engine again after a few moments and the EPC light didn't reappear. I don't have a VAG-COM to read whatever code was thrown. Should I be particularly concerned, or should I just chalk it up to bad gas or stray cosmic particles? I'm due for the yearly service appointment at the end of the month, so I'll mention it to them one way or another, but I'd appreciate hearing from the resident VW expert on whether I should try to move the service appointment up.
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Sep 3, 2010 00:40
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Hatebreed posted:Uneventful. I turned down a Prius loaner in lieu of using their shuttle. Doing 10K service 1.2k early, entire front passenger door speakers will be replaced under warranty. I'll have a bunch of Recall/TSB numbers for you guys when I finally go through this week's paperwork. My flash was wiped last week for the BCM software flash so next week I'll have to get my ECU cracked open again. What are the recalls you mentioned? I'm assuming they told you what they were for at least. chutwig posted:EPC light How many miles do you have on it now? I asked about this earlier in the thread, and I don't think error codes are cleared automatically so if dealer scans your car they should get the code and hopefully shed some light on this. Maybe my1999gsr knows more. I don't know how long errors stay in the system though. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 00:48
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Autism Sundae posted:How many miles do you have on it now? I asked about this earlier in the thread, and I don't think error codes are cleared automatically so if dealer scans your car they should get the code and hopefully shed some light on this. Maybe my1999gsr knows more. I don't know how long errors stay in the system though. 6400 now, had it since November.
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Sep 3, 2010 01:20
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komradekommissar posted:Hello, Multimetered the o2 sensor and it seems to be acting properly, indicating what I assume is closed loop operation since its voltage is oscillating regularly. Going to try disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor - apparently the sensor we disconnected on the "big" coolant line was not in fact the coolant temperature sensor - it looks like the ISV temperature sensor. That sensor's wires, though, are kinda frayed, so it might be replaced anyway. I think it might also be the check valve on the fuel pump, but that should surely come with the replaced fuel pump I imagine. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 03:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:OK, today we disconnected the entire air filter/metering/fuel regulation assembly from the throttle body and ran it. Still no real change, although it continues to work when cold. We're thinking the cold start injector doesn't switch off properly and ends up running the engine stupidly rich and drowning the thing in fuel. Unplugging the control pressure actuator sensor doesn't seem to do much of anything. Starting from the top: If you suspect the cold start injector, unplug it but I don't think that is the problem anyway. A bad 02 sensor will cause it to have a wonky idle, but not die entirely. It is not the check valve, that will only cause hot start problems. It is possible that it is the CTS but most likely it is the warm-up regulator, that thing with the fuel lines going to it that is bolted to the engine block. Reference the shop manual (Bentley) for the correct fuel pressures.
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Sep 5, 2010 03:10
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Now that DropShadow has me thinking about B7 A4 avants, are there any good audi forums with active for sale sections I should be looking at? I've been checking audiusa for CPOs, ebay, cars.com, and autotrader a few times over the last few days. I'm already getting the feeling that trying to find a B7 2.0 avant with a manual transmission (especially in something like Ocean Blue on black leather) is going to be a long and frustrating process, so any help would be much appreciated.
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Sep 6, 2010 18:52
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havelock posted:Now that DropShadow has me thinking about B7 A4 avants, are there any good audi forums with active for sale sections I should be looking at? I've been checking audiusa for CPOs, ebay, cars.com, and autotrader a few times over the last few days. My best advice would be to buddy up with a trusted Audi salesman who can keep an eye out for any certified ones that appear on the market. Personally, I wouldn't buy one that isn't certified. It'll cost a little bit more, but it's totally worth it in my opinion. I recently got over $4,000 worth of parts and labor, thanks to my CPO warranty. The manuals are harder to find, of course, but they're out there. I bought mine on an impulse when a black/black/6MT popped up on a local Audi lot. I love it. Favorite car I've owned so far. 
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Sep 6, 2010 19:41
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Here's something that's been bugging me for the past couple of days. I just had my 05 BEW Golf's timing belt changed about a week ago (the 28th) and everything was running fine until this past Sunday. Sunday morning rolls around and I can't start my car. The starter motor is cranking, it sounds like it's going to start, but the car doesn't start and I almost run down the battery. I throw it on the charger before I head to work. I'm thinking either the fuel pump has gone or the anti-shudder valve is shut or the TB job is off. Get home, put in the battery; car fires right up. Since Sunday evening the car has worked normally, but I pulled a trouble code of P0864 off my OBD2 scanner. Even weirder, before I unplugged the battery, the trip meter, radio and clock reset themselves and it has never tripped a CEL. Is the battery going or is the car possessed/just a VW?
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Sep 7, 2010 03:34
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As a followup on my question regarding my 2001 Jetta - I've decided to sell it, because I'm not nearly sentimental enough to drop nearly the blue book value on the car to keep it going awhile longer. I called a VW dealership in the area, and while they can't buy it for parts because they need everything to be under warranty, a few of the techs may be willing to buy it so they can fix it up themselves, saving the trouble of labor costs. The thing is, I'm not certain what to ask for without looking like a dick. The blue book value of the car seems to fall between the 3500-4000 range, and a remanufactured tranny would be around 2100 - I've heard in this area that labor would add about 950. If I wipe about 2000 off the blue book value and let them handle the transmission stuff, that's more or less them getting it at BBV and me getting a decent amount for it, right? I don't want to sell myself short, but I also don't want to come off as an ignorant rear end in a top hat by asking for too much.
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Sep 7, 2010 18:48
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Commodore 64 posted:Here's something that's been bugging me for the past couple of days. I just had my 05 BEW Golf's timing belt changed about a week ago (the 28th) and everything was running fine until this past Sunday. Strange. If it was a timing issue it shouldn't have fixed itself. It's a little odd that it would crank easily and not start to the point of running down the battery. Your P0864 is "Communication to Transmission Control Module Range Performance" which is usually the result of ground problem but in your case, if the battery voltage got very low it could also trip that fault. My advice is to clear the fault and see if the symptoms return. Have a look at the fuse panel on top of the battery - from time to time they cook and strange electrical things start happening.
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Sep 7, 2010 23:35
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Buzkashi posted:As a followup on my question regarding my 2001 Jetta - I've decided to sell it, because I'm not nearly sentimental enough to drop nearly the blue book value on the car to keep it going awhile longer. I called a VW dealership in the area, and while they can't buy it for parts because they need everything to be under warranty, a few of the techs may be willing to buy it so they can fix it up themselves, saving the trouble of labor costs. Scan autotrader.com for similar cars in your area and use that as a starting point for price negotiation. Here's some things to keep in mind: The tech will be able to get a used tranny for much less than your quote. The tech knows that the car isn't of much use to you in it's condition and he will bargain hard. The tech will be doing the work himself so the labor price isn't as applicable. You're not being a dick if you come in at the blue book - it's only the start of negotiations - but if I were the tech buying it I'd be figuring it like this: I can find a tranny for $1000 or less. The labor means nothing since I'd be doing it myself. Honestly, knock $850-$1000 off what cars like yours are selling for in your area and go from there - you can always bargain down but never up. If your car is in better than average condition or if you've had some major service work done lately it adds to the value, especially if the tech interested in buying the car knows about it.
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Sep 7, 2010 23:54
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my1999gsr, I found this guide to fixing rear seat latch noises (which I seem to have, didn't try tape yet): http://www.my-gti.com/2337/rear-seat-noise-rattling-clicking-and-squeaking-in-volkswagen-golf Is this the only way to fix it? If I bring it up at the dealer, can they do anything about it short of doing the same tape trick?
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Sep 8, 2010 00:37
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