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wormil posted:These are excellent suggestions but you'll also want some decent chisels. I have a set of Marples Blue Chip and I can make them sharper than a razor. The 3/8" gets the most use. Inexpensive table saws aren't very useful unless you're a carpenter hauling it from jobsite to jobsite, save up until you can drop $800 or more on a contractor or cabinet saw. I bought a super expensive set of chisels only to have my idiot roommate use my 3/8 for some auto repair that ruined it. Fucker still doesn't fully understand what he did.
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Sep 6, 2010 22:14
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wormil posted:I find this to be a significant advantage though. I started with a 7 1/4" and it just wasn't very useful for my projects. Then I bought a 10" saw and often wish I had a 12". Mine isn't sliding though, just a straight chop saw. Yeah? The only time I've only used the extra capacity in the past couple years was when I was chopping 4x4 posts for my fence. I guess it depends on what you do 
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Sep 6, 2010 22:38
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Need your guys input on something, I need to finish the backside of my cabinets which is going to be a breakfast bar. Instead of having a second lazy susan I made a cabinet which will have adjustable shelves and faced it toward the dining room. My plan is to make wainscoating for the dining room and something similar on the back of the cabinet. Here are the cabinets.  Here is the plan. I worried about whether the left and right need to be balanced. The right side is actually a door so the size is pretty much set. I guess my question is, how does this look or is there something else I could do here?  The red lines above represent the actual cabinets. Edit: my concern is that the panels aren't balanced. wormil fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 03:59
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The Narex 6 piece chisel set won outstanding reviews in fine woodworking and they're 6$ each or less, made in the czech republic. Got mine a month ago, fantastic. http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31448 get em at http://www.highlandwoodworking.com
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Sep 7, 2010 07:29
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wormil posted:Need your guys input on something I personally think they're fine the way you drew it up, but if you arent sure, did a quick dirty mock up in photoshop for you.  I think it looks pretty nice like that myself Also had a small question myself, anyone here had any experience with Tung Oil? Made a few small cutting boards at home, and while im more than happy to leave them clear, wouldn't mind trying one with it. Just not too sure how it'll come out. It sounds good from what i've found http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/technical-data-sheets/188-tung-oil-aka-china-wood-oil
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Sep 8, 2010 05:28
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ChaoticSeven, I remember seeing in an earlier post that you've got a Grizzly G0513X2 - what was it that made you decide on the X2 versus the standard model? I'm thinking about a new bandsaw and am seriously considering the G0513P since it's on sale now. The X2 has ball bearing guides, but honestly after coming from the bandsaw I have now, I probably won't notice the difference. The resaw fence is probably the only thing I'd miss but I can always either buy the Grizzly fence for $90 or pick up the Kreg fence for $110 from Amazon if I decide I want a better fence.
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Sep 9, 2010 00:56
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It comes down to the resaw fence, guides, and it has cast iron wheels and cast iron trunnions to support the table. The heavier wheels translate to more momentum, makes it harder to stall or slow it down. The guides and resaw fence alone are something like $160. I think those upgrades are worth it, obviously. I guess it depends on what you see yourself doing with it. Always impossible to predict. I never thought I'd be throwing huge chunks of log on mine but that's what I've been doing for the last month or so to cut out bowl blanks. Would the aluminum trunnions hold up fine? Probably. But I don't have to worry about it. It's cry once when you pay for it or possibly cry a lot more later if you get upgrade fever.
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Sep 9, 2010 01:31
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schmen posted:I personally think they're fine the way you drew it up That's good because that's probably the way I'm going to do it. My brain keeps saying "UNBALANCED!" but my wife is fine with it also. schmen posted:cutting boards The few cutting boards I've made were left unfinished but mineral oil is another safe finish. Shellac is also safe but leaves an actual coating.
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Sep 9, 2010 03:40
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wormil posted:The few cutting boards I've made were left unfinished but mineral oil is another safe finish. Shellac is also safe but leaves an actual coating. The wood whisperer goes through a few options at the end of his cutting board video http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/ http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-2/ http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/
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Sep 9, 2010 04:53
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I melt gulf wax into mineral oil in a 4:1 ratio. 4 parts oil, 1 part wax. Then I soak the entire board overnight in it. I decided to try a natural edge...something or other last night after work. I think it'll look really cool assuming it survives drying. Put a dab of glue on the pith on both sides. Sprayed it with water to get a little preview.  
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Sep 9, 2010 15:06
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wormil posted:That's good because that's probably the way I'm going to do it. My brain keeps saying "UNBALANCED!" but my wife is fine with it also. I think it looks fine, too, for what it's worth. Even if it does look a little wonky, you're going to have a dining room table with chairs hiding it so nobody on the planet is going to notice your proportions. Then that inner voice chimes in and says "Yes, but I'll notice". schmen posted:Also had a small question myself, anyone here had any experience with Tung Oil? Made a few small cutting boards at home, and while im more than happy to leave them clear, wouldn't mind trying one with it. Just not too sure how it'll come out. I've used tung oil in the past, but am completely drawing a blank on what I used it on, so I can't say how it turned out. However, I do clearly remember the smell of the stuff - I didn't like it one bit. Not that the smell will matter once it has cured, but just the stink of applying it was enough to turn me off to using it. Now that I think about it, I might be getting tung oil confused with boiled linseed oil. One of them stinks. If you are planning on giving these cutting boards away as gifts, I think mineral oil is the way to go. In the future, the gift recipient can buy it right in a grocery store and it is a simple matter of wipe on wipe off. If I ever get a tablesaw that isn't the worst pile of poo poo on the planet with a spinning blade, I plan to make some end grain cutting boards. If and when I give these to my neighbors and friends, I plan to include some instructions on care and cleaning. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 16:47
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I would like to start doing some woodworking since I now have a functional garage to work and store tools in. Specifically I'd like to build some kitchen cabinets since what we have currently needs to be replaced badly. I have done some very basic carpentry in the past, but nothing of this magnitude. What I've seen on TV and read in books makes it seem like it's a lot of work, but not especially difficult. Am I totally foolish for thinking I can pull something like this off on a first project? What sort of tools would be absolutely necessary? I have the basic hand tools as well as a circular saw and a saber saw. I'm watching for a good deal on a table saw as well. I'm assuming a router would be a good thing to have? Could I get away with not having a jointer, or is that a necessity for something like this?
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Sep 9, 2010 21:57
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ChaoticSeven posted:I melt gulf wax into mineral oil in a 4:1 ratio. 4 parts oil, 1 part wax. Then I soak the entire board overnight in it. Is that spalted oak? It looks lovely. Spalted wood usually dries without checking, but it may be a good idea to turn it thinner if you can, just to make sure, especially as the pith runs right through it. Something else I have heard of people doing with green oak is to cover it in carnauba based paste wax and melt it in with a paint stripping gun. Never tried that myself, so I have no idea if it actually works. I usually microwave dry green turned bowls myself, but that is mainly because I am impatient. Amazingly, nothing I have ever done this with has split. Haven't tried oak mind, although that is about to change since I just acquired 3, 150 year old oak trees.
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Sep 9, 2010 23:07
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stubblyhead posted:...I'd like to build some kitchen cabinets... Building cabinets you'll be working with sheets of cabinet grade plywood which can come in either 4x8 or 5x5 feet. You could do it with nothing but a circular saw (with finishing blade) and a drill but it's even simpler with a table saw. I was going to tackle my whole kitchen but my shop is very small and it just seemed too massive of a project plus I was under some time constraints. The styles are out of date but this book has cut lists for standard cabinet sizes. http://www.amazon.com/Build-Kitchen-Cabinets-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558706763/ref=pd_sim_b_2
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Sep 10, 2010 02:46
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icky posted:Is that spalted oak? It looks lovely. Spalted wood usually dries without checking, but it may be a good idea to turn it thinner if you can, just to make sure, especially as the pith runs right through it. Something else I have heard of people doing with green oak is to cover it in carnauba based paste wax and melt it in with a paint stripping gun. Never tried that myself, so I have no idea if it actually works. Yep, spalted oak. Mind running down your usual microwave method? How thick do you turn down a piece you intend to microwave, how is the warping etc. You should post a few things you've done. For anyone looking for a small jointer...$225 shipped. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/0/30998/Rikon-6-1-HP-Jointer.aspx ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Sep 11, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 22:30
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Lacquering a project after 2 months of work is nerve racking. Pics to follow. MarshallX fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Sep 11, 2010 |
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Sep 11, 2010 00:54
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I found the site of a wood carver named Randall Rosenthal today. I could practice carving for a lifetime and still not be worthy of sweeping the shavings off of his shop floor. http://www.randallrosenthal.com/Pages/New%20Pages/cutting_board_page.htm
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Sep 12, 2010 12:38
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SkunkDuster posted:I found the site of a wood carver named Randall Rosenthal today. I could practice carving for a lifetime and still not be worthy of sweeping the shavings off of his shop floor. I scrolled through thinking "He just made a square cutting board, what's the big deal?" at least four times until I went "wait, what?"
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Sep 12, 2010 14:50
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9" around 5" deep. Cherry. 
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Sep 12, 2010 22:01
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Oh man, that's a gorgeous bowl.
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Sep 12, 2010 22:20
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ChaoticSeven posted:Yep, spalted oak. Mind running down your usual microwave method? How thick do you turn down a piece you intend to microwave, how is the warping etc. You should post a few things you've done. It is actually pretty easy; Put the green wood in a ziploc bag and close it most of the way. Put it in the microwave at full power for 1 - 2 minutes. Take the item out of the ziploc bag, and cover it with an old towel. Turn the ziploc bag inside out so that it dries. Leave it for at least 10 minutes, depends on the wood, but I let it cool until it is warm and not hot to the touch. Repeat. You can weigh the item after each heating cycle so that you know when it is dry, or you can just look and see how much condensation there is on the ziploc bag. If it starts to check, use CA glue, or use titebond or whatever PVA based stuff you use, and the microwave will actually set it on the next heating cycle ... I bet you will find at least 100 different ways people recommend you should do this, but that is what has worked for me so far. As for how thick to leave the green turning. You can either leave it nice and chunky and remount and finish turning after it is dry, or take it down to it's final thickness, let it warp a bit, and sand by hand to get the ridges out where there has been shrinkage along the grain. It is down to the item and personal preference. On the theme of natural edged (and spalted) things: This is 9.5" tall and 7.5" at the rim, spalted silver birch.  And 2 tiny ash bowls I just made, both about 5" at the rim, 3" tall. I have no idea what is going on with the colour of the wood in the first bowl, but it looks impressive.   
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Sep 13, 2010 21:10
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I spent about 4 hours stripping the footboard and posts. Still have the siderails and headboard. I now hate stain and poly. I have been meaning to ask since I saw this. It looks perfect. Where did you get the plans from?
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Sep 14, 2010 04:50
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So, my HOA (of which I am unfortunately on the board) has finally decided to replace the wooden sign in the front of our neighborhood, since it's falling apart. It's actually two pieces held on either end by large square brick structures in which the signs slide into. I am considering offering to just redo the signs we have but I need opinions on what kind of wood to use so I can give them an estimate. The current signs (2 separate pieces of wood) are 144" x 8" and 4" thick (thickness was exact, so I imagine I'd have to use 18/4 and plane it). They just used straight outdoor paint on it, so it doesn't have a real ascetically pleasing grain pattern or anything. Plus I don't think I can talk them into buying 72bf of teak. Ideas or opinions? Anubis fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Sep 15, 2010 |
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Sep 15, 2010 16:14
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Anubis posted:So, my HOA (of which I am unfortunately on the board) has finally decided to replace the wooden sign in the front of our neighborhood, since it's falling apart. It's actually two pieces held on either end by large square brick structures in which the signs slide into. Are the signs routed or just painted? If they are painting it I wouldn't bother with wood, I'd use plastic or a composite deck board. Either way, build up the edges and leave it hollow, no reason to use a 4" thick piece. Other excellent outdoor woods: mahogany, ipe, cypress, redwood, cedar.
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Sep 15, 2010 19:25
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Finished the construction of my nightstand out of some pine:  I made it jelly cabinet-style, it has a door that needs a finish before I hang it. This is the second piece of furniture I have made, and I am extremely happy how it came out. I'm kicking myself in the rear end now for making it out of Lowes pine though, I always thought domestic hardwoods were much too expensive.. but I did the math and realized that it cost me $1.55/bf for my crappy soft pine. I then went to my local hardwood dealer and saw this:   For $10~ more I could have made it out of cherry..I guess it's time to save up for a planer.  BONUS Fedex was kind enough to drop these off for me today: 2x 6", 12", 18", and 24". Best $40.00 spent!
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Sep 15, 2010 20:13
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Carta posted:
That's a good price. Where from?
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Sep 15, 2010 20:27
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Harbor Freight. I was initially weary of their tools when I would see the prices, but I have a bunch of friends who have had 0 problems with the stuff they buy.
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Sep 15, 2010 20:36
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wormil posted:Are the signs routed or just painted? If they are painting it I wouldn't bother with wood, I'd use plastic or a composite deck board. Either way, build up the edges and leave it hollow, no reason to use a 4" thick piece. Other excellent outdoor woods: mahogany, ipe, cypress, redwood, cedar. It's done in 4" tall routed letters. I planned on picking up a nice template set to do this.
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Sep 15, 2010 20:52
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Carta posted:Harbor Freight. I was initially weary of their tools when I would see the prices, but I have a bunch of friends who have had 0 problems with the stuff they buy. HF is very hit and miss. Some of their larger power tools are essentially late model name brands with different paint jobs. They even share manual drawings and are built in the same factory. Others are complete pieces of poo poo that will break the moment you blink. While it certainly lasted awhile, I did recently break my first HF clamp over the summer. Still, you could break 3 or 4 of them and still be ahead of certain name brand clamps, so there ya go.
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Sep 15, 2010 20:55
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Anubis posted:HF is very hit and miss. Some of their larger power tools are essentially late model name brands with different paint jobs. They even share manual drawings and are built in the same factory. Others are complete pieces of poo poo that will break the moment you blink. I do like Bessey/Irwin clamps, but paying $10-$15 for one clamp that I can get for $3-5 on HF did not appeal what so ever. Maybe once one breaks I'll replace it with a higher quality equivalent.. but who knows. edit: $33 before shipping for the clamps I bought, to get the same amount/size at Lowes would have been just shy of $100 elegant drapery fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Sep 15, 2010 |
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Sep 15, 2010 21:04
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icky posted:It is actually pretty easy; Cool. So you didn't notice any "case hardening" after microwaving them? I'll have to give it a shot. Nice natural edge stuff, especially the last. I need to find some decent sized branches so I can make something more opened up, as opposed to the tall narrow thing mine is.
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Sep 15, 2010 21:40
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Well I put in my time with my cheapo table saw and kept getting inconsistent results. I can't depend on it for straight cuts or accurate angles, and a circular saw with a large straightedge does a much better job ripping plywood for me. I'd like to get a nice miter saw for building speaker boxes, making frames, trimming cabinets, etc. Anyone have a recommendation?
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Sep 16, 2010 00:19
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Carta posted:This is the second piece of furniture I have made, and I am extremely happy how it came out. I love pine and have intentionally made furniture from it but it gums up sandpaper, likes to move and takes care to finish. Nice looking nightstand. I want to see it when the door is finished. Edit: miter saws - I have a Delta 10", my only complaints would be that it isn't larger and doesn't have a laser sight; the latter being the less important of the two. wormil fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 00:46
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Just finished ripping some 8/4 maple. I needed to rip it all the way to down 3/4" wide sticks. After I shot myself in the chest with a piece of poplar earlier this year, I'm super wary of my old-as-dirt table saw with few--if any--safety features and so I decided I'm getting a bandsaw for real this time. Plus, a lot of the woods I like to cut burn so easily. But mostly I just dread using that saw every time I have to cut something and it's kind of ruining the experience. 
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Sep 16, 2010 00:51
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Bad Munki posted:Just finished ripping some 8/4 maple. I needed to rip it all the way to down 3/4" wide sticks. After I shot myself in the chest with a piece of poplar earlier this year, I'm super wary of my old-as-dirt table saw with few--if any--safety features and so I decided I'm getting a bandsaw for real this time. Plus, a lot of the woods I like to cut burn so easily. Not sure what happened in your other experience but don't stand behind the wood unless you can't help it. I prefer standing to the right of the fence. A sharp blade and good technique will do wonders to prevent kickback. I have no safety stuff on my saw and have never had a kickback but I am hyperaware of the position of my hands and of the wood.
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Sep 16, 2010 00:57
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Well, yeah, the one time I did get kickback, it was pretty much a solid effort on my part to make it happen. Standing directly behind the work piece, between the blade and the fence, with the blade tilted towards the fence at a full 45°, cross-cutting a 6" wide, 10" long piece of poplar...hit me just under my massive manly pec. "OW" I said in a deep, gruff voice, as I calmly shut off the table saw in order to assess the situation. There's enough poo poo wrong with this saw, though, that it bugs me even aside from that. Too much slop in the miter slide means I can never get a perfect 90 on cross-cuts, the fence isn't quite true with the blade (at least the direction it leans is away from the blade at the far end) and, as I just noticed tonight, if I slide the fence all the way to the end of its run, about 25" out, the far end doesn't even grab the bar when I clamp it down, which means there's flex in it at the far end. On that note, is there any reasonable way to retrofit a nicer fence on to this thing? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 01:02
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You can definitely retrofit a fence and there is a way to ping the miter guage with a metal punch to get a snugger fit. I was looking over my saw this weekend and noticing that I need to go through and do some minor up keep. One of the wings has dropped about 1/16" on one side, need to make sure the blade is still parallel to the fence. There are several excellent tablesaw books out there. I know Kelly Mehler has one. He gave a talk at our local woodworking club a few years ago, back when I still had time to attend meetings.
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Sep 16, 2010 01:20
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Bad Munki posted:Well, yeah, the one time I did get kickback, it was pretty much a solid effort on my part to make it happen. Standing directly behind the work piece, between the blade and the fence, with the blade tilted towards the fence at a full 45°, cross-cutting a 6" wide, 10" long piece of poplar...hit me just under my massive manly pec. "OW" I said in a deep, gruff voice, as I calmly shut off the table saw in order to assess the situation. Assuming your miter slot is standard width (3/4) a gauge with adjustments for fit will solve the slop problem. http://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV27-Miter-V27-Gauge/dp/B0007UQ2DW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1284596486&sr=8-2 On the fence, it can be adjusted for parallel to the blade, after the blade is adjusted for parallelism to the left miter slot. Most people, including me, leave some several thousandths of an inch...(wane?) at the end of fence. IE, the rear end end of the fence is further away than the front. This supposedly helps with kickback and binding. Finally, yeah you can probably just bolt another fence on there. I don't recall what saw you have, but that might be wasted money if you ever plan to get a new saw, since most of them come with a nice fence these days anyway. I use this one, have no problems that I've noticed and it locks TIGHT. http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-W2005-Classic-Standard/dp/B001UE7K1M/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1284596514&sr=1-8 I've been trying to talk myself into an Incra fence, you know, the ones that cost about the same as a brand new contractor saw. Or more. Been resisting for 2 years now.
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Sep 16, 2010 01:29
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Well, maybe I'll look into that. I wasn't suggesting that I was going to stop using the saw altogether. There are a lot of things it's good for. But I also know there are a lot of things a bandsaw can do bother better and safer. Also I'd like to be able to resaw without a) risking life and limb, and b) sacrificing a significant portion of the wood. As for the saw, it's...poo poo, I don't even know what it is. It's like 30 years old, though, so my biggest concern would be whether modern parts would fit or not. And yeah, I do plan on upgrading it some day to a much nicer saw, but that's many years out.
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Sep 16, 2010 01:31
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It's a Rockwell 34-400, is what's stamped on the table itself. Motor is something else. When I got it, it had the original wiring, which had a little toggle switch on the motor itself to control the on-off. Yes, on the motor, in the back, away from where you stand.  First thing I did was get rid of that switch and wire it up to one of those nice big safety switches with the stop signs, mounted on the front so I could hit it with my knee, instead of having to take a taxi around to the other side of the saw to access the power control. Pretty sure it's almost exactly this one, although mine has an angle marker on the near side where his looks blank. Also mine was in slightly prettier condition when I got it, but that's really only the table surface itself. The one at that link is circa 1965. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 01:34
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