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Try Rhino Liner! 
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Sep 3, 2010 21:37
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eddiewalker posted:so I loaded it up with 48 plastic bottles. I assume plastic bottle are 2L each? So 96kg of water? Lets assume your ambient is 22', dropping to 4' inside the fridge. Yes, it will take a hell of a lot longer to drop 96kg of water by 18'. The freezer isn't working well because your system is trying to cool the fridge, until it does that satisfactorily it won't feed any cold air to the freezer. You would have been better introducing 10 litres every 48 hours. Finally, unless you're a horse by the time you get to drink the last of that water it'll be absolutely foul.
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Sep 5, 2010 11:34
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knuthgrush posted:Garage door issue, didn't think it warranted its own thread... When you buy new springs, you need to buy them based on the weight of the door and not the physical size. If the springs are too light they'll stretch too easily, break very quickly, and won't be much help in offsetting the weight of the door. Too heavy, and as you've already found, you won't be able to close the door against the increased tension. If you have a standard bathroom scale, you can unhook your springs and just let the door rest on it to get a fair idea of how much it weighs. The wire running through the inside of the spring is a safety cable, intended to be tethered on both ends and prevent the spring from summarily removing a windshield or an appendage in the event of breakage under tension. Older doors like yours might not have built-in places to tether the cables, but it should be easy enough to look up some pictures online and create a pretty good facsimile with some nuts'n'bolts. It's not a load-bearing system - it's just a retention mechanism for broken spring parts. I'm not an overhead door expert by any means, but I've installed my fair share of openers and springs in the past. I'll be happy to answer anything I can. 
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Sep 6, 2010 00:46
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nbzl posted:Hi! throw a black sheet over them, voila
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Sep 6, 2010 04:00
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I bought a nice skirt at a yard sale and the zipper decided to go off track on me after the second wear. The zipper itself is still attached, but the teeth remain completely apart whether I zip up or down. Googling has only given the advice 'try to line the teeth back up and slowly zip/rezip' but I literally cannot force them to come together again. The teeth are VERY tiny. Any tips before I give up and take it to a tailor? Edit: Before I waste anyone's time, I should probably mention I can just barely sew a button on, and not much else. MissFortune fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 11:55
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MissFortune posted:Any tips before I give up and take it to a tailor? Most dry cleaners will also do minor repairs. I had a zipper in my leather jacket repaired some years ago for a very small fee.
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Sep 7, 2010 09:22
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Someone tell me about sod! I have a bunch of bare spots that I seeded last year with "shady mix" and it all grew in pretty nice but now it's all permanently dead. I guess I should have watered it some after it grew in instead of just watering so it would grow in. I want to try sod this time and I've heard there are certain types for shade, certain types for sun and a certain time of year you're supposed to do each one. It's mostly shaded areas I need to cover. This is in oklahoma so it does get below freezing but usually not by much and not for very long. Any advice? Also I have maybe 1500-2000 sqft bare spots to cover, I was planning on just buying enough sod to fill my truck at a place on my way home from work for a few days. Anything wrong with this? Or should I have them deliver it all at once with a big truck? Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Sep 7, 2010 |
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Sep 7, 2010 22:25
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Do I need permits to gut and redo a bathroom? Not adding any footage on, just fixing what's broken. Going to replace some plumbing, electrical, tiles, flooring, etc.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:30
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BorderPatrol posted:Do I need permits to gut and redo a bathroom? Not adding any footage on, just fixing what's broken. Going to replace some plumbing, electrical, tiles, flooring, etc.
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Sep 8, 2010 06:38
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Hmmm, we're planning on moving out sometime next year. How much would permits like that cost?
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Sep 8, 2010 06:56
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Insulation Question: Over the past week my house has been accumulating house flies. I have tried everything to get rid of them, but more appear every day. A couple of days ago I went down to the basement and the fly population was like a Zerg rush. On top of that was a strong smell of something like piss and dead. My house was built is 1860 and the majority of it is expansion built surround the original basement. Where the house expands out they left just enough room for the duct work and wiring to run under the kitchen, which is where I believe whatever has died is located. I shined a flashlight into the crawlspace there were a lot of turds, to big to be mouse crap littering the floor. I think it is a groundhog, because I used to see one running along the side of my house when I left for work. I could also see a lot of ripped up insulation. The smell has gotten worse since then, and I want to take care of this over the weekend. From reading articles on line it looks like I will have to strip the insulation and dis-infect the area before putting new insulation in. Has anyone had an issue like this and if so, how did you deal with it? I have no idea if I can even get at most of the insulation in the crawlspace area without ripping up my floorboards. It is REALLY tight and scary in there. Suggestions?
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Sep 9, 2010 01:41
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BorderPatrol posted:Hmmm, we're planning on moving out sometime next year. How much would permits like that cost?
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Sep 9, 2010 02:22
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Wagonburner posted:Any advice? I've been landscaping for the last decade, and when it came time to fix the grass at my house, I bought seed rather than using free, high quality sod. I recommend you spread a little nice topsoil, throw out some shade/sun seed, apply straw and actually water it so the fescue in the seed mix can take root. Unless you have an excess of money, time, and demand an instant lawn then there is very little reason to sod instead of seed. For your savings from using seed vs sod you could buy a seed spreader, several sprinklers, hose splitters, an automatic watering timer, and still have money left over. This isn't even taking into account the time savings. Doing the prepwork for sod so that it actually comes out proper is a huge pain in the neck. Think about it, but if you still want to spread sod(it'll be around 3-4 pallets) I could probably help out. Either way, do it soon since the first few weeks of autumn is a great time to do either. dinozaur fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 04:06
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MissFortune posted:I bought a nice skirt at a yard sale and the zipper decided to go off track on me after the second wear. The one thing you can try is running a bar of soap along the zipper to lubricate it a bit. I had something similar happen to a leather jacket but the zipper refused to travel at all, it just stuck halfway through - which was a pain in the rear end if I was wearing it. It was possible to force the zipper down one tooth at a time but time consuming. If the soap doesn't work, ask a tailor to replace the slide. If that doesn't work, you'll need to replace the whole zipper or skirt.
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Sep 9, 2010 04:44
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dinozaur posted:I've been landscaping for the last decade, and when it came time to fix the grass at my house, I bought seed rather than using free, high quality sod. I recommend you spread a little nice topsoil, throw out some shade/sun seed, apply straw and actually water it so the fescue in the seed mix can take root. Noted for sure. Maybe I'm gonna seed again. I have not even tried to do any math to see how much this would cost with sod sounds like it would be a lot the way you're talking. After all I did get it to grow once, I just have to keep it grwoing.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:59
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So I'm planning a table/shelving unit out of threaded steel plumbing pipe (and wood). We will be using it in our kitchen to provide much needed counter space and some shelves to store appliances. The unit will basically be a 4'x3' table with one foot shelves stacked on top of the table (against the wall). I got the idea, however, that we could make it a "drop leaf" table. I could probably make it 4'x4', but have two feet of the length drop down when not in use. It would free up kitchen space but allow ample counter space when we need it. I'm trying to think of a way to support the leaf when it is extended. I was thinking of a fifth leg that swivels around under the leaf. Do they sell steel plumbing pieces that can swivel freely? Any other ideas? I'd prefer a leg under the leaf instead of a rail/lock system since we may be putting some significant weight on it. Edit: This is what I'm thinking:  I think I'll just use normal pipe fittings and not screw the threads in all the way. That should give it enough rotation to swivel around (I think) polyfractal fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Sep 11, 2010 |
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Sep 11, 2010 17:26
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polyfractal posted:
If not, try some of these handrail parts. http://fence-material.com/hafiswflhr52.html as an example -- there are other parts here that might work, collars and whatnot.
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Sep 11, 2010 21:13
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polyfractal posted:Any other ideas? http://www.amazon.com/Drop-Support-tables-without-aprons/dp/B001DVTFBA Another idea although I like your swing out leg better.
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Sep 13, 2010 09:47
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Fall is officially here, which means I am behind on making my Halloween costume. This year, I'm a bit stumped as to what material I can use to make it. I want to go as Klaus Nomi, seen here: In action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gma5IUNMTn0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKYpepxGkyY&feature=related Obviously, the construction should be pretty simple. Might need some sort of wire frame underneath, but still pretty tame. But I can't think of what the hell to use for the actual suit or where to get it- I need some sort of rigid yet bendable plastic sheet, preferably already with a high shine. Any thoughts? Melicious fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 16:51
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Melicious posted:…But I can't think of what the hell to use for the actual suit or where to get it- I need some sort of rigid yet bendable plastic sheet, preferably already with a high shine. Any thoughts? Patent leather vinyl? Perhaps check Chicago-area fabric and upholstery shops? Wicked fun costume idea, btw. Have a Bowie to hang with during festivities? e: excised further off-topic sentence Arriviste fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 17:33
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Arriviste posted:Patent leather vinyl? Perhaps check Chicago-area fabric and upholstery shops? Wicked fun costume idea, btw. Have a Bowie to hang with during festivities? I actually conceived of it as a duet costume- my best friend is going as Bowie.  Anyway, I had thought about vinyl, but my concern is that it will end up looking wrinkly or saggy.
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Sep 13, 2010 18:37
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Melicious posted:I actually conceived of it as a duet costume- my best friend is going as Bowie. It's been forever since I've owned anything made with patent leather, but I recall it being somewhat stiff when used in shoes. I don't know if that's due to the thickness of the material or whether it was backed with cardboard or another material. It might be worth talking to a cobbler or upholsterer to learn more about grades of products available and what methods & materials are used to shape them. You might even get a good lead on scrap or inexpensive supplies! 
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Sep 13, 2010 18:52
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While remodeling I removed one door and need the hole bricked up and the brick to fit in with the old brick. In another spot I replaced a double window with a french door and need brick filled in around the door. I'm debating doing it myself or hiring a mason (which I'm told are very expensive). Anyone done brickwork? Advice?
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Sep 13, 2010 19:04
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My dishwasher is screeching at me. It sounds like a banshee. Help? [GE Triton XL]
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Sep 14, 2010 04:00
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wormil posted:While remodeling I removed one door and need the hole bricked up and the brick to fit in with the old brick. In another spot I replaced a double window with a french door and need brick filled in around the door. I'm debating doing it myself or hiring a mason (which I'm told are very expensive). Anyone done brickwork? Advice? Actual brickwork is pretty easy, the hardest thing is going to be finding brick that matches the old brick. Fortunately they sell used brick at home depot/lowes. You can also look for used brick on craigslist. As for removing the current brick mortar so you can put "new" bricks in, get out your hammer and chisel and gently work away until you have open spaces to fit the new brick. If you need to cut the brick to fit a certain size hole, use a circular saw or grinder with a masonry blade. You can do it by hand but if you have more than one to do, then it's worth it for the saw. As far as grouting, match the grout color up, mix the grout to what the bag says then get a trowel and other tools to work into holes from home depot. Also, get some latex gloves so you can work with your fingers, it's easier to do the final grout lines with just your finger to get it nice and smooth if you're filling in between bricks. I learned the latex glove trick the hard way. The first time I did it by hand and my fingers were dried out and cracking the next day from the chemicals in the grout. I've done this method on my own house without having to use muriatic acid and it worked out great and matched the old finish. Hope that helps out and answers your question.
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Sep 14, 2010 19:14
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JoeWindetc posted:My dishwasher is screeching at me. It sounds like a banshee. Help? [GE Triton XL] Did you get any resolution on this? Mine is too.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:25
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Zahgaegun posted:Did you get any resolution on this? Mine is too. Best I can find is a loose belt on the motor. Still researching, but I'll keep you posted if I find anything else out.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:55
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I remember reading a great post in here a while back about the best brands of power tools for each type. Well, I'm in the market for a drill - cordless or corded, doesn't really matter. I'll probably be searching craigslist to see if I can buy a decent one used, but I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. Thoughts?
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Sep 18, 2010 04:15
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moana posted:I remember reading a great post in here a while back about the best brands of power tools for each type. Well, I'm in the market for a drill - cordless or corded, doesn't really matter. I'll probably be searching craigslist to see if I can buy a decent one used, but I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. Thoughts? I don't know about 'best', I don't follow tools that closely but the brands I look at are Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt, and Makita among others. If this is for home use, I bought an 18 volt Porter Cable set (drill, 2 batteries, circular saw, sawzall, and flashlight) recently for use while remodeling. My only complaint about the set is that the torque adjustment on the drill isn't as consistent as my Makita.
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Sep 18, 2010 05:10
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moana posted:I remember reading a great post in here a while back about the best brands of power tools for each type. Well, I'm in the market for a drill - cordless or corded, doesn't really matter. I'll probably be searching craigslist to see if I can buy a decent one used, but I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. Thoughts? Dewalt. Hands down.
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Sep 18, 2010 05:13
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moana posted:I remember reading a great post in here a while back about the best brands of power tools for each type. Well, I'm in the market for a drill - cordless or corded, doesn't really matter. I'll probably be searching craigslist to see if I can buy a decent one used, but I'd like to spend less than a hundred bucks. Thoughts? Whatchoo wanna do wid it?
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Sep 18, 2010 06:49
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Flay Minion posted:Whatchoo wanna do wid it? Checking out Dewalt drills on CL to see if I can pick something up for not that much.
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Sep 18, 2010 17:27
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Thought about posting this in CC, but there's no real place for quick questions, and this is more crafty/hobby related. I'm starting to make some art pieces in photoshop that I'm interested in printing, mounting and perhaps framing some. First of all, I have no idea where to print them. Would my local Kinkos/Staples/etc be able to print what I need? I guess I can mount it to some cheapo board with some contact adhesive. I was also thinking about coating the print in some lacquer with a small brush to mimic brush strokes. Anyone have any experience with this?
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Sep 18, 2010 18:53
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I need to drill two 3/8" diameter 3" holes in a block of 6061 aluminum. I started the endeavor with a 1/8" hss pilot hole on my flexy drill press. I guess I got carried away and now I have a 1" piece of broken drill bit ~1/2" in the block. How can I retrieve this piece and what is the proper way to drill these holes? Edit: I'm drilling at 2050 rpms and using 3-in-1 for lubricant macpod fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 20:40
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bunky posted:Would my local Kinkos/Staples/etc be able to print what I need? Kinko's should, although they tend to be expensive and the person doing the printing may or may not know what they are doing. I would suggest looking for a place that prints CAD drawings or an independent printer. There are a couple of goons on sa-mart that print posters for reasonable prices.
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Sep 18, 2010 20:51
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moana posted:Drill some loving holes in things. (just drywall and pine 2x4s, nothing fancy pants) Dewalt is a good name but generally when they are sold used, they are REALLY used. I've had decent luck in pawn shops tho. Also, these drills go for only about 60 bux brand new?
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Sep 18, 2010 20:57
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If one were to build a canoe, is it necessary to steam bend the ribs, or can they simply be cut from solid pieces of wood? Like the supports in the folding kayak thread, I guess. I know using strips and bending would save weight, but is there some other reason? Edit: Enough research now tells me plenty of canoes do not need any steam bending at all. Plywood Terrier fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Sep 19, 2010 |
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Sep 19, 2010 05:51
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Hi all Below is a picture of my workshop space with it's mostly concrete floor but with this one pictured patch of bare dirt  Disclaimer: this is the previous owners work. This is the crawl space of an addition they built and some of the concrete is overpour from the foundation and the rest is the original patio concrete (painted yellow) I'd like to have a somewhat level and uniform concrete floor. I've never worked with concrete before. What is the best approach and product to use here?
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Sep 21, 2010 20:01
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I'm renovating my house and we're getting ready to work on the basement. We ripped up the lovely old carpet and are in process of removing the disgusting foam/glue mixture that lurked beneath. As to my question, what type of floor covering should we go for? The basement floor is all concrete under the foam/glue and it's not really level. Would linoleum or peel-and-stick tiles be okay? Do I need a vapour barrier of some sort? I also have a large hole in the concrete because someone thought a sump pump was necessary when living at the top of a hill. note: the pump was removed years ago and I don't think it's been used in 15-20 years, to no adverse effects
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Sep 22, 2010 00:14
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| # ? May 27, 2024 22:55 |
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macpod posted:I need to drill two 3/8" diameter 3" holes in a block of 6061 aluminum. I started the endeavor with a 1/8" hss pilot hole on my flexy drill press. I guess I got carried away and now I have a 1" piece of broken drill bit ~1/2" in the block. step 1: Tighten visegrip on broken stub. step 2: turn visegrip counterclockwise. step 3: drill 2 holes with 3/8 drill bit. Just take it slow if you have a variable speed motor, and if you can, put the work as close to the drill as reasonable. Also, if you don't tighten the chuck nearly as much it wont break the bit, The worst thing that can happen is the chuck slips a little bit.
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Sep 22, 2010 02:37
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