|
Runoir posted:Ok, I've been lured back to shooting film by Velvia 50, but this sounds too good to be true: "35mm - Mounted or Un-mounted, included two line imprint. $8.25" There's a very handy darkroom guide by John Hedgecoe out there, although it's not specific to slide film techniques.
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 02:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 00:21 |
|
|
Runoir posted:Ok, I've been lured back to shooting film by Velvia 50, but this sounds too good to be true: "35mm - Mounted or Un-mounted, included two line imprint. $8.25" Apparently you can use Walmart's send-out service and get it done pretty cheap. Samy's in Santa Barbara (where I send my 4x5 C-41, and by extension, everything else I can't do at home or get done at CVS) does E-6 at $5/roll, although that doesn't include return shipping. Anyone have cool and/or useful film-related odds and ends to suggest? It's getting to be about time for another Freestyle order. I was already thinking of something to replace the (rust-prone) binder clips I've been using to dry my film in the shower, for one. Should start wet-printing soon too: got a 135mm Componon in the mail, a bid on a 50mm Rodagon, and picking up a Gra-Lab timer and 11x14 easel this weekend from Craigslist 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2010 03:11
|
|
|
Been lurking and trying to decide whether or not to process my own film. Keep in mind that my dominant hand is wonky and my brain is eh... How difficult is it really? For say dummies?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 06:25
|
|
|
If you mean black and white film then it's literally so easy I could (and do) do it while watching TV. The only difficult parts are winding the film onto the spool and measuring out the chemicals. Winding is easy if you use a sacrificial roll to practice on and have a decent changing bag (I prefer this over a dark room). Measuring out chemicals is pretty easy but involves some math so if you're really stuck just come ask in here. After that it's just a matter of pouring in things in and out at predetermined intervals and turning the tank over a few times at a predetermined time. It's not even THAT important because something like HC-110 combined with Tri-X or HP5+ (Delta 400 too) is so forgiving that you'd literally have to go out of your way to overagitate to get an unacceptable negative. I'm not saying you shouldn't focus on what you're doing and try your hardest to do it right, but let's put it this way: I accidentally developed a roll shot at ISO400 at times meant for ISO1600 and I still got film that was mostly fixable after scanning. The difference between developing for ISO400 and ISO1600 is like 7 extra minutes (or something, I don't have it in front of me), so there's a LOT of leeway. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Sep 11, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 06:32
|
|
|
Thank you! I did mean Black and White. If it's that easy, I might just try it! I'm going to give it a few weeks to see if my "desire" (right word?!?) is still there. But expect lots of questions when/if I do begin.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 06:38
|
|
|
Got some Kodachrome back today. I took the shots a few weeks ago and for a few of them I shot them on Kodachrome and then reshot them digital just to compare the two. For the film I just touched it up and for the the digital shots I actually tried to get them to look like slide film. This would be a better test with prints though because my scanner sucks rear end.   I've got a few more but I'm going to have to dig out my external hard drive to get to them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 07:06
|
|
|
The wait for the roll of k64 I shot 3.5 years ago (just sent it in, obviously) is killing me. I can't commit to shooting any of the three new (2007) rolls I have right now, they have to be perfect.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 08:07
|
|
|
Just got an adapter in the mail to use the cheaper/easier to find M series bulbs in my canon rangefinder flash unit! The drat thing actually works, so now I can be blinding my friends and family with abandon. Nannypea posted:Thank you! I did mean Black and White. If it's that easy, I might just try it! I'm going to give it a few weeks to see if my "desire" (right word?!?) is still there. But expect lots of questions when/if I do begin. I have to confess, black and white seemed really daunting but this thread got me off my rear end and shooting/developing b&w just a few months ago. It seems like a lot to remember, but if you have a closet that is fairly light-tight, you can load the film in the dead of night with all lights out. The chemicals are pretty easy to mix and you don't have to worry too much about keeping them at different chemicals. This thread is honestly one of the best resources for how to easily process film.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 08:19
|
|
|
Anyone out there scan their color negatives with a v500 and vuescan? I'm wondering if anyone has any good tips with this combo because my scans are coming out worse with vuescan than the epson software :/
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 21:12
|
|
|
Only thing I can suggest is that when you select your frame, make sure you select JUST the actual photo content. Vuescan does some retarded levels normalization poo poo if you select the blank area around the photo or if you include too much of the sprockets or something. I haven't found any way to turn this off. There are some settings that look like they SHOULD disable it, but they don't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2010 21:23
|
|
|
Just got a Ricoh GR1s. Sweeeeeeet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 01:09
|
|
|
Nannypea posted:Thank you! I did mean Black and White. If it's that easy, I might just try it! I'm going to give it a few weeks to see if my "desire" (right word?!?) is still there. But expect lots of questions when/if I do begin. Glad to see you back in the photo threads, Nannypea. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Sep 12, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 04:24
|
|
|
I want to get someone an analog camera, and it seems the eos 5 has about everything she'd want. Anything I should be careful about as I look for one?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 12:25
|
|
|
Ok, I wanted to run my final darkroom checklist by you guys before I put in my order at Freestyle on Monday. Am I missing anything? -4x5 enlarger w/ 4x5 condenser lenses and head (also have cold light head, but the light source is uneven as hell) -Schneider Componon 135mm (needs some work, not as high a priority). -Rodenstock Rodagon 50mm f/2.8. Will probably pick up an 80mm lens eventually, but not a huge priority as I don't shoot 120 anymore, just have some negs laying around I might want to print. -Contact printing frame (need to replace the kind of rotten foam, is this important or can I get by as-is?) - (2) Tongs -Safelight - (3) stackable drying screens (big, probably only need 1) -Trays: set of (3) 8x10 and (3) 11x14 -Grain Focusing Scope -Gralab enlarger timer (guy said it's better for developing film) -Spirotone electronic enlarger timer (recommended for prints, accurate to 1/10s) -Adjustable 11x14 easel -Double sided printing frame, 8x10 and smaller sizes on back -Set of Kodak Polymax filters, below the lens, with mount. Chemistry: -Aristadol paper developer -Kodak Fixer (just re-using what I use for developing negs, this isn't a problem, right?) -Kodak Hypo Clear To buy(?): VC fiber paper (probably just Arista to start out)
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 13:10
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:-Kodak Fixer (just re-using what I use for developing negs, this isn't a problem, right?) No, this should be fine. I don't know if you've done it before but throwing that paper into the developer is one of the greatest moments ever. It's magic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 13:33
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:I want to get someone an analog camera, and it seems the eos 5 has about everything she'd want. Anything I should be careful about as I look for one? If you want to spend less money, get the EOS A2E. It's the exact same thing except for the exposure display, which is a fairly minor thing in reality for most intents and purposes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 16:50
|
|
|
The A2e was for the American market, I don't think I've ever seen one here!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 17:52
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:The A2e was for the American market, I don't think I've ever seen one here! The A2e is the same as the European EOS 5. Edit: And I reed gud. Sorry guys. Most of the Canon cameras take a 2CR5 battery. Having one handy would help test long-neglected cameras. Also, bring a lens to test the contacts and make sure the camera's electronics are still good. pseudonordic fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Sep 12, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:-Kodak Fixer (just re-using what I use for developing negs, this isn't a problem, right?) You can use the same fixer for paper and film, but not the stuff you have already mixed and fixed film with. For one, the dilutions are different, and two, film fixer gets alot more silver in it and that can mess with paper somehow. I forget the details. Long story short: If you reuse fixer, you need a bottle for use with film, and another for use with paper.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 19:05
|
|
|
Stregone posted:You can use the same fixer for paper and film, but not the stuff you have already mixed and fixed film with. For one, the dilutions are different, and two, film fixer gets alot more silver in it and that can mess with paper somehow. I forget the details. D'oh, okay. Will add it to my order (and might as well toss in some replenisher for my old jug of film fixer). Anything else I'm overlooking?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 22:18
|
|
|
HPL posted:If you want to spend less money, get the EOS A2E. It's the exact same thing except for the exposure display, which is a fairly minor thing in reality for most intents and purposes. pseudonordic posted:Also, bring a lens to test the contacts and make sure the camera's electronics are still good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2010 23:45
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:Ok, I wanted to run my final darkroom checklist by you guys before I put in my order at Freestyle on Monday. Am I missing anything?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2010 04:29
|
|
|
So I've finally tried out my Spotmatic and Takumar 1.4, and... Is the uneven exposure caused by the camera or an error in development?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2010 07:39
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:My A2E has the -2 to +2 exposure scale. I guess the guy who had it before me must have had the firmware hack done? The camera's not for me (so I don't own a 50), but the girl it's for has a 35/2 which I'll take along.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2010 07:42
|
|
|
Zombotron posted:Is the uneven exposure caused by the camera or an error in development? your shutter curtain is laggy i think.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2010 19:07
|
|
|
PRO TIP: If your frame advance stops at the end of the roll and using just a little more pressure will get it to click into place- DON'T DO IT! You've already shot at least one more than the advertised 36, getting greedy is just going to end in heartbreak. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2010 19:37
|
|
|
FasterThanLight posted:Maybe a burning tool, but you could just punch a hole into a piece of cardboard. I have one that came with my enlarger - the odd shapes that it gives are sometimes useful, but I probably wouldn't pay too much for it. Sounds like something I'd probably wind up making anyways. Put in my order with Freestyle last night, came to $150 (was due up to buy a bunch of film for an upcoming trip) 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 00:39
|
|
|
Local shop had an eos 50 for 50 bucks
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 01:14
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:PRO TIP: If your frame advance stops at the end of the roll and using just a little more pressure will get it to click into place- DON'T DO IT! You've already shot at least one more than the advertised 36, getting greedy is just going to end in heartbreak. I wasn't paying attention and almost had that happen to me the other day. I usually get at least 1 extra shot at the start of a roll though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 15:31
|
|
|
I HATE CARS posted:I wasn't paying attention and almost had that happen to me the other day. I usually get at least 1 extra shot at the start of a roll though. Yeah, I have an LCD counter on my body, but still a manual advance. I can usually get 38 from a roll, but I guess I loaded that one 1 or 2 sprocket holes deeper than usual and I ended up screwing it up. Had to go into my trunk and unwind the film from the takeup on the body and put it in a blacked-out container until I got home.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 16:42
|
|
|
Wait, you pulled it hard enough to take the film off the canister spool? You crazy bastard 8)
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 17:35
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:Wait, you pulled it hard enough to take the film off the canister spool? You crazy bastard 8) I did this, and in my infinite wisdom I somehow decided to open the back and throw out the film instead of waiting until I got home and salvaging the roll. My dumb knows no bounds.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 17:58
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:Wait, you pulled it hard enough to take the film off the canister spool? You crazy bastard 8) I don't half-rear end it when I screw up, ok? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 18:08
|
|
|
I used to do that on my Zorki 6 almost every time because it took so much force to wind the film normally that the tape holding the film to the reel didn't have a chance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 19:38
|
|
|
My Zenit E does it does it EVERY TIME i try to wind the film back or advance at the end of the roll. I've just given up and put it in a darkbag to rewind.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2010 23:11
|
|
|
I just got handed a whole bag of film, about 30 rolls. 15 rolls of Kodachrome, 12 rolls of Sensia (processing included which is amusingly still honored by the store they came from.), and a few rolls of Ektachrome. The sad thing about this bounty is that the rolls all range from 10-13 years old. It's been frozen the entire time, but is there any chance of it still being usable? I wouldn't mind if there was some slight color shift, as it might be usable for some weird effects. I do plan on shooting some test rolls real quick to see what it looks like, but I'm most concerned about the Kodachrome. Should I just toss it, or is it worth trying out?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2010 18:23
|
|
|
Bloody August posted:I just got handed a whole bag of film, about 30 rolls. 15 rolls of Kodachrome, 12 rolls of Sensia (processing included which is amusingly still honored by the store they came from.), and a few rolls of Ektachrome. The sad thing about this bounty is that the rolls all range from 10-13 years old. It's been frozen the entire time, but is there any chance of it still being usable? I wouldn't mind if there was some slight color shift, as it might be usable for some weird effects. I do plan on shooting some test rolls real quick to see what it looks like, but I'm most concerned about the Kodachrome. Should I just toss it, or is it worth trying out? No chance that Kodachrome is good, mail it over to me and I'll dispose of it for you.  If it's all been frozen, it's probably just fine - freezing slows film aging down to basically nothing. Keep it in a heavy ziplock in the freezer until you're ready to use it, set the film canister out the night before to defrost so you don't end up with condensation everywhere, enjoy. Be sure to shoot that Kodachrome up before the end of the year. Kodak discontinued the chemicals and Dwayne's is the only lab still processing it. It's a bit on the expensive side to process, but it looks great.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2010 21:14
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:No chance that Kodachrome is good, mail it over to me and I'll dispose of it for you. Yeah, I bought up the last few rolls of Kodachrome that we had (new) a while ago, and they're almost ready to be shipped out. Since I have a hard time using film over my 5DII, I won't possibly be able to burn through 15 more rolls of the stuff before year's end. Therefor, if anyone wants some of it, send me an email (engineskull @ gmail . com) and I can send you some. I'll probably only keep 2 rolls of it, leaving 13 that need use! I, of course, can make no guarantee that it's still good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2010 21:45
|
|
|
Sent you an email!
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2010 23:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 00:21 |
|
|
Sent ya mail Bloody August!
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2010 01:56
|
|
