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Anybody have a diagram of a K-Jet wiring harness? I'm trying to safely remove it but the previous owner's "Wiring Harness Rebuild" consisted of him replacing the biodegradable outer shell of it with nothing but electrical tape and in the process fused the starter circuit to the harness as well as other various dash spaghetti.
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Sep 4, 2010 21:51
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Xovaan posted:Anybody have a diagram of a K-Jet wiring harness? I'm trying to safely remove it but the previous owner's "Wiring Harness Rebuild" consisted of him replacing the biodegradable outer shell of it with nothing but electrical tape and in the process fused the starter circuit to the harness as well as other various dash spaghetti. KJet.org has them for a 1980 and a 1981 car under Documents --> Greenbooks.
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Sep 4, 2010 22:23
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TheJeffers posted:KJet.org has them for a 1980 and a 1981 car under Documents --> Greenbooks. Yeah, I've been looking through them but I was looking for something more specific in regards to the removal of the wiring harness itself. It's practically engine spaghetti right now because half of it is bundled together with electrical tape and the whole tape mess seems to run underneath the carpet into the chassis itself. I plan on separating everything into different looms so I can have an easier time splicing the wires together on the new harness but first I need to figure out what the hell is wrong with this thing. 
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Sep 4, 2010 23:16
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Sorry if you mentioned this earlier, but are you trying to replace the KJet harness or remove it completely to install LH or MS or something else? also, there should be a connector right where the harness goes into the firewall - usually you just need to replace what's under the hood. If that connector was removed and spliced together, you should consider cutting at that point and putting a connector back there.
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Sep 5, 2010 00:35
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stash posted:Sorry if you mentioned this earlier, but are you trying to replace the KJet harness or remove it completely to install LH or MS or something else? also, there should be a connector right where the harness goes into the firewall - usually you just need to replace what's under the hood. If that connector was removed and spliced together, you should consider cutting at that point and putting a connector back there. I'm putting in an LH2.4 harness but it's one garbled clusterfuck of wires from the previous owner's "rebuild". My friend is replacing his head gasket right now and soon he'll be coming up and helping me out with this since it's far beyond my comprehension at this point. I'm gonna take another shot at it tomorrow morning and see if I can't make more sense of it.
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Sep 5, 2010 11:20
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Just cut it off-it doesn't sound like it's worth saving at this point.
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Sep 5, 2010 17:58
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Yeah, probably not. But that's some easy money if I can salvage it. The wires and connectors are in great shape-- it's just that the housing itself for the wires is completely hosed up and covered in electrical tape.
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Sep 5, 2010 20:22
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It was remarked I was fortunate to have a load-cover that retracts.  That was nice while it lasted.  Is there a repair kit available anywhere? It's too useful to do without.
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Sep 6, 2010 20:16
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Which 15" 240 tires do people here like in tundra like environments?
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Sep 7, 2010 02:19
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Xovaan posted:Yeah, probably not. But that's some easy money if I can salvage it. The wires and connectors are in great shape-- it's just that the housing itself for the wires is completely hosed up and covered in electrical tape. So take the electrical tape off 
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Sep 7, 2010 03:02
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So I think my fuel delivery issue may have been harness-related as well. It finally gave up the ghost and won't start at all, and it seems the main computer is a bit fried due to a short in the harness between the computer/ignition/fuel pump. (The pushing/rocking/whatever the hell it was that "Fixed" it in prior occurances just wiggled some contact together slightly better, apparently.) So is it worth having my mechanic try and find me a new (rebuilt) computer? Or should I investigate other avenues like a swap to a turbo motor from a newer car? Any suggestions guys?
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Sep 7, 2010 23:14
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Ether Frenzy posted:So I think my fuel delivery issue may have been harness-related as well. What is the car, again? I have a couple used '92 740 Turbo computers laying around.
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Sep 8, 2010 04:46
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It's an '85 240 (I think LH 2.2 but I'm not really positive on that).. I also don't know much about the different versions, would a newer version computer work on the car as-is or would I need to make some other component changes? 5 hour later edit: Because if I end up needing to swap out bits, I might as well swap out the whole lump for something with some more guts and a non-30 year old degraded harness.... Ether Frenzy fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 8, 2010 21:19
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So it turns out the computer was actually okay - my old Volvo guru spent who knows how many hours taking apart the dash and tracing back a short in the ignition wiring that the stupid cowboy PO did (17+ years ago now??) that apparently eventually (I've put 160k+ miles on the car in that time, driven it for 30 hours straight, etc etc...) caused the fuel pump relay to burn up and ground out. There were apparently actual bare wires back there behind the ignition. No clue how the car has not caught fire and melted down at some point, and astonishingly enough, the computer survived this voltage issue. Frickin' PO's.  Still getting me 2 decades later!I guess it goes to the old car stereo adage: Wire it together in 30 seconds and it looks like poo poo? It will work forever. Spend the afternoon using solder and couplers and crimping it and running it all pro? Guaranteed to fail in the first 15 minutes. My mechanic really is a prince - he only charged me for 3 hours labor and the cost of the relay - I got out of there for under $300 and I *know* he probably spent 8 hours on it at least over the last two days.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:55
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I have a 1996 960 wagon that just gave up the ghost (timing belt broke, probably killed the pistons or valves or what have you). I've never had to sell a total non-runner car before. My options are junk yard or sell it to somebody for parts yeah? What ballpark figures should I be looking for from each option?
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Sep 9, 2010 21:14
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Heffer posted:I've never had to sell a total non-runner car before. My options are junk yard or sell it to somebody for parts yeah? What ballpark figures should I be looking for from each option? On a similar note I am finally getting rid of my 240 parts car because it has been taking up most of the garage. I've pulled the computers and a bunch of relays and the mass air meter. Anything else I should be sure to pull before it goes?
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Sep 9, 2010 21:56
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Heffer posted:I have a 1996 960 wagon that just gave up the ghost (timing belt broke, probably killed the pistons or valves or what have you). If the timing belt broke, the valves and pistons are almost certainly trashed. A junkyard likely won't give you more than scrap value for it (a few hundred bucks, if that.) Depending on the condition of the various interior and exterior bits, you might be able to make money parting it out and then junking it. Alternately, just throw it up on Craigslist for $1000 and see if there's some crazy Volvo person in your area who will buy it for the purpose of rebuilding it. It's hard to say exactly how much you'll get out of it without knowing the shape it's in, but you should probably be prepared to take anything you can get.
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Sep 9, 2010 22:42
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Heffer posted:I have a 1996 960 wagon that just gave up the ghost (timing belt broke, probably killed the pistons or valves or what have you). If I were you I'd verify the damage to the pistons, using a boroscope through the spark plug holes or similar. If it's just valve damage, you might be able to fix it yourself. And it's possible there's no damage (unless you heard it). Unlikely, but one of my team-mates broke the timing belt on her Neon (interference engine) at a stoplight and had no damage at all. Talk about a lucky rear end in a top hat. Ether Frenzy posted:I guess it goes to the old car stereo adage: Wire it together in 30 seconds and it looks like poo poo? It will work forever. Spend the afternoon using solder and couplers and crimping it and running it all pro? Guaranteed to fail in the first 15 minutes. gently caress you, this is why I don't have a car stereo. The PO's was a complete hack Kenwood that had AM/FM only, and I slapped a nice Kenwood in after it, so the plug matched. Decided I didn't like it so I returned it, took a whole day to clean the PO's bullshit up and make it all nice with good solder and heatshrink and poo poo. The next two (not Kenwood) units I put in burst into loving FLAMES within a week. Decided I didn't need a stereo.
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Sep 9, 2010 22:58
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Hey if you part it out, I'll take the tail lights (if they're red/clear/clear/red), spoiler, and tailgate handle cover. See, it's already making you money 
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Sep 9, 2010 23:13
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It's time for a new car, and after eyeing GTIs and WRXes I now find myself strongly considering a new Volvo C30. Is buying a C30 right now a good idea? I'm a little concerned about the Geely handover. I'm also not really up to date on Volvo or C30 reliability; I know the 80s models were tanks, but that's about it. Also, if I were to buy a C30, I'd likely take advantage of the European Delivery program as I've always wanted to see Sweden. Has anyone done that? How was it?
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Sep 10, 2010 22:21
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alakath posted:Also, if I were to buy a C30, I'd likely take advantage of the European Delivery program as I've always wanted to see Sweden. Has anyone done that? How was it? I got my set of 740 Greenbooks from a guy who got an XC70 through the Overseas Delivery program in '08 or '09, he said it was the best thing he'd ever done in his life. He drove it around for three weeks and toured Europe with his family. Volvo takes care of the insurance and road tax(?) and all the other bullshit you would need. I have read that you want to make drat sure you get everything out of the car before you drop it back off to get shipped, as US Customs can freak out and hold your car up if you leave a bottle of wine in the trunk or something. Swedespeed has a subforum for OSD with a ton of information. The "cards" offered through OSD are specific trip packages, IIRC. If I was getting a C30 through OSD, I'd probably do my damnedest to make it to the Nurburgring in it. Driving the Ring once is a bucket list item, why do it in a rental?  Read: "I don't give a gently caress how fast that rental Porsche is, this is MY CAR."As far as I have read (and hope), it looks like Volvo is just continuing to do their thing, and Geely bought them to leech tech and start making/selling Volvos in China. Either way, remember that cars are in the construction pipe for a while after design is final, the current C30 should predate the Geely Dealy. That said, I dunno anything about how good/bad they are. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 22:39
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How rare are the 240 turbo rims? Ive been looking for a while and now there are a some on craigslist 2+ hours from me for $150/4. The guy says that clear coat is in rough shape and need refinishing. Is refinishing even worth doing? Any advice on whether these are worth getting? e: Is there a good way to check the rims are round without any specialized equipment? ch1mp fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 02:56
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ch1mp posted:How rare are the 240 turbo rims? Ive been looking for a while and now there are a some on craigslist 2+ hours from me for $150/4. The guy says that clear coat is in rough shape and need refinishing. Is refinishing even worth doing? Any advice on whether these are worth getting? $150 is a lot if they need work. They can be had from a junkyard for $30 a pop in whatever condition. This is more like a good deal. http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/pts/1947315053.html
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Sep 12, 2010 04:36
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Splizwarf posted:$150 is a lot if they need work. They can be had from a junkyard for $30 a pop in whatever condition.
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Sep 12, 2010 05:09
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ch1mp posted:That is a good deal, but also 1000 miles away from me. I've heard a lot of people on the internet say that 15" are a big improvement over the 14" so I guess I'd prefer 15's. car-part.com does not list any close to me. They list some 5 spoke alloys from a 740 also 2 hours away for $35 ea but I'm not sure of the condition. I don't mean that kind of yard, sorry. I should have been specific, a U-Pull type is what I meant. Just gotta get in and explore. I see good rims for old cars as a "wait and pounce" game more than a "where can I find it asap" thing. YMMV I posted that ad because it's the next county over from me and the wife is close to letting me get them. I have the same rims currently, those look better, and then I can strip and paint my current ones.
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Sep 12, 2010 05:16
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Saw this on the Brickboard, thought you all would appreciate it. Can I have $16,000? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110582707114 Oh man it is so pretty.
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Sep 12, 2010 17:53
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alakath posted:It's time for a new car, and after eyeing GTIs and WRXes I now find myself strongly considering a new Volvo C30. Is buying a C30 right now a good idea? Get an S40 or V50... same car as the C30 but in AWD and better looking imo. It has the same 5cyl that they've been using since the mid 90's and its a tank of an engine, but I really don't know about the things built around it, so I can't vouch for that. Its not going to be like a 240 in terms of maintenance so just get that idea out of your head. I wouldn't worry too much about Geely. Production and design will still be Swedish. Also Geely doesn't want to gently caress with a good thing. This is their first adventure into the global auto world and they don't want to make a bad first impression. Honestly I think we will see a return to Volvo's roots (stupidly easy and dead reliable cars with comfort that rivals the best) instead of this Ford pushed goal to compete with Audi, BMW, and Mercedes... but that's just speculation/ talking out of my rear end on my part. They could gently caress everything up and kill Volvo... who knows.
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Sep 12, 2010 17:56
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Put on my Ecodes today: They look great and are pretty drat good headlights to boot.
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Sep 13, 2010 03:12
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ch1mp posted:Which 15" 240 tires do people here like in tundra like environments? I'm a big fan of Goodyear Nordic's. I believe they are called UltraGrip 500 outside of Canada. They are amazingly noisy but the grip (on loose snow especially) cant be denied.
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Sep 13, 2010 07:02
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I think you can get Hakkapeliittas in 15". There's no substitute for these as far as winter tires go, especially if you spend any time on ice. They're not cheap, though. I have Nexen ("Roadstone") Winguard tires on my car when winter hits currently, and they're "okay," especially for the price ($60 a corner for 17"). They freak out a little on ice, wear extremely quickly and they're very noisy on dry tarmac but they do really well on loose snow. Hankook iPikes are also pretty popular here. I will probably mount Hakkas when these Winguards are stripped; they were thrown in by the previous owner of the car. I had Nordics on my previous car (FWD J-body) and they were pretty good overall. They're extremely popular here. edit: Looks like the Hakka 5 comes in everything from 185/55R15 to 215/65R15 so you should be able to find something that fits, albeit perhaps at a crazy price. There are cheaper Hakkas as well. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 08:00
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My experience is that any dedicated winter tire is going to be better than an all-season. You get progressively better handling, wear and less road noise if you spend more money. Hell I had some super cheap-o generic Walmart winter tires that managed to pull my Escort wagon through two feet of snow but sounded like I was running 33" mud tires on tarmac.
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Sep 13, 2010 14:44
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That's basically my experience as well. There are varying degrees of quality of winter tires (mostly in terms of wear/rubber compound and how lovely their tread design is) but I suspect even Ling Long winter tires will probably be better than voyaging out onto the ice in all-seasons. If you're really gung-ho, you can get studdable winter tires (such as my Nexens) and step up to a nice stud setup if you're finding the cheapo winters aren't doing it. Also, don't be like a lot of morons here and only put on two winter tires. "I'm saving money by fishtailing wildly at every intersection!" I'm not looking forward to the upcoming winter where I will see several Corollas with winter tires only on the front and all four tires massively underinflated "for traction." Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 18:34
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two forty posted:Saw this on the Brickboard, thought you all would appreciate it. Can I have $16,000? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110582707114 That's nice... but $16k? I'm amazed it's getting so many bids, I'm a nerd for pristine 240's, but.... this is a white automatic DL with the worst interior color. I've seen mint barn finds with fewer miles and more desirable models (242, GT interiors) go for more like $6-8k. Why would you spec this one and then museum it? (Also, what's up with Asian Volvo owners keeping these things so mint? If the ebay listing with the registration is the original owner, that is... I found an '91 in the Pick-a-Part in Sun Valley that was pretty close to as nice as this one - clearly garaged always, silver, black interior with almost zero wear/sun damage and brand new seats, even still had the owner's manual with an Asian name on the registration section (and all the maintenance records. Alas it had already had the speedo yanked when I found it on its first day in the yard, but I got just about all the rest of the interior. I think the guy must have died and his family just sold the car, not knowing it had been babied in such a way.)
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Sep 13, 2010 18:58
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Sviatoslav posted:Get an S40 or V50... same car as the C30 but in AWD and better looking imo. It has the same 5cyl that they've been using since the mid 90's and its a tank of an engine, but I really don't know about the things built around it, so I can't vouch for that. Its not going to be like a 240 in terms of maintenance so just get that idea out of your head. Thanks for the feedback. I took a look at the S40 and the V50, but I just love how the C30 looks. Also, as far as I can tell, neither one is AWD here in America. Also, thanks to Splizwarf. Driving the Nurburgring would be an absolute must if I end up doing OSD.
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Sep 13, 2010 20:14
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Disregard
VarXX fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 20:34
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alakath posted:Also, as far as I can tell, neither one is AWD here in America. Oh poo poo, I forgot about this. You can get all the Euro options on the cars; for example, if you get on Volvo's Euro website the list of exterior paint colors is like 4 times as long. US Volvos don't come factory in any shade of red this year.  e: I dunno if they come in AWD overseas, I didn't mean to imply that was a certainty; I wouldn't be surprised if AWD was only the 60 and up. Hmm, twin-turbo v8 AWD s80, I think I'll add that to my wish list. I bet it's not thrilling to work on. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Sep 14, 2010 |
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Sep 14, 2010 06:36
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8ender posted:My experience is that any dedicated winter tire is going to be better than an all-season. You get progressively better handling, wear and less road noise if you spend more money. Hell I had some super cheap-o generic Walmart winter tires that managed to pull my Escort wagon through two feet of snow but sounded like I was running 33" mud tires on tarmac. I ordered 4 x Pirelli Winter 190 Snowcontrol tires from tirerack for $300 shipped, it's supposed to be quiet, good performance especially for the money. I drove with Kumho-something all seasons last winter and it sucked. I couldn't -ever- get up my parent's driveway, and I got stuck over and over when I went skiing up in Vermont. The 850's trac control was useless for getting out of drifts. The ABS did it's job so at least I wasn't worried about hitting anything, but it's still a heavy car. I didn't use winter mode, the blogosphere claims it destroys the transmission, and it didn't seem to help the few times I tried it anyway. Speaking of the transmission, the internet also claims the ATM in the 850 (and other lines) is unreliable and tends to go past 150k, which worries me, mine has the original tranny at 184k, I bought it from the original owner - an old lady who owned a knitting shop (really) - and now I drive the poo poo out of it, tons of NYC stop-n-go warfare and now I put in at least 1000 miles a month through upstate NY. I've been reading about swapping in a transmission cooler to compensate, if anyone has any input on that...
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Sep 15, 2010 18:36
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NOTinuyasha posted:I've been reading about swapping in a transmission cooler to compensate, if anyone has any input on that... Wait, the 850 doesn't have one? I honestly figured all Volvos from that era did. My 740s do. Do it; while you're in there, put an inline filter, a flow+pressure meter and a thermostat on the return line.
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Sep 16, 2010 07:01
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Splizwarf posted:Wait, the 850 doesn't have one? They all still have the cooler in the radiator end tank (at least the x70 series do) but not a dedicated cooler. The best way to preserve a Volvo FWD auto transmission is to ignore the god drat recommendation and change the fluid out every 30k-50k miles. There are guys reporting 300k plus out of original transmissions because they did that.
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Sep 16, 2010 16:21
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Is there anything about manual trans 850s that needs to be done?
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Sep 16, 2010 16:54
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