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Pipkin posted:Exitlights, here is the best I can remember from the last time I did it: The piece all the way to the left next to the headlight switch pulls right out. Then take out the switch out by pushing in on the tab you uncover by removing the piece on the left, pull it straight out and unplug it. After that take the air vent out CAREFULLY by pulling it straight out, I use pliers covered with cloth to grab the horizontal vane to do it. Then remove all the screws that you uncover and take out the panel that is in the way. I think you have to unsnap it from the panel that goes around the gauge cluster, IIRC. After that you should be able to get to all the nuts that secure the RF module.  Bingo. Thanks for the help, that was a lot easier than I expected it to be.
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Sep 14, 2010 02:15
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Excuse my ignorance, but what does an RF module do?
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Sep 14, 2010 07:50
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Opensourcepirate posted:Excuse my ignorance, but what does an RF module do? It's probably the RKE module; listen for 315 or 433MHz communication from keyfobs, authenticate against the codes stored in memory, and then do things based on that data (unlock, lock, panic, remote start, etc). He could drop a uC on the K-Line or LIN-bus connected to the antenna or ECU and snoop data to do interesting things when certain signals are received.
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Sep 14, 2010 17:45
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I've got a 1993 Passat GLX. I first noticed a slight engine thumping yesterday when I started the car but it went away almost as quickly as I heard it and I The car is just shy of 170,000 miles on the original timing chain. Does this sound like a timing chain that needs replacing or something more sinister (headgasket, etc)?
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Sep 14, 2010 20:33
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movax posted:It's probably the RKE module; listen for 315 or 433MHz communication from keyfobs, authenticate against the codes stored in memory, and then do things based on that data (unlock, lock, panic, remote start, etc). Pretty much this. The whole setup is from a '98 Golf though, so I doubt there's any logic running through the lines coming out of the module. It looks to me like the parts of the car controlled by the RF module are just run right into the module itself, or back to the fuse box, and pulled high/low by the RF module. Since (for now) I'm just looking to duplicate the functionality of the fob with a microcontroller, I'm thinking that I'll just need to figure out what's getting voltage when I hit different buttons on the fob. I should then be able to put together a circuit to drive those voltages from the microcontroller's logic, and then round the whole thing off with a Bluetooth module I picked up. This is basically all speculation though, any outside knowledge here would be very welcome. Since it sounds like you've got some knowledge of what's going on with this RF module I found: if I snapped a picture of the diagram on it explaining what pin goes to what, do you think you could decipher it?
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Sep 14, 2010 21:17
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Local VW dealership refuses to acknowledge left front passenger speaker is blown. I'm loving sick of this and will never own another VW due to lovely dealership experience after another.
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Sep 14, 2010 21:46
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Hatebreed posted:Local VW dealership refuses to acknowledge left front passenger speaker is blown. I'm loving sick of this and will never own another VW due to lovely dealership experience after another. Sadly, lovely dealerships seem to be more the norm than the exception with VW these days.
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Sep 14, 2010 22:14
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veedubfreak posted:Sadly, lovely dealerships seem to be more the norm than the exception with VW these days. It's not just the dealership. I've had my MY10 GTI in for the shop for 2TSBs and 2 recalls so far and it's getting ridiculous. My sunglasses holder is broken so they'd need to order parts for that and the speaker when they test it again TWO WEEKS FROM NOW. Days of ownership: 109 Days VW in shop: 6 I never had to take my MK5 R32 in for a checkup. e: I've also owned a B5 A4 and B5 S4 so I know VWs don't have the best build quality, but goddamn the MK6 has been lovely so far. Hatebreed fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Sep 14, 2010 |
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Sep 14, 2010 22:42
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Hatebreed posted:Local VW dealership refuses to acknowledge left front passenger speaker is blown. I'm loving sick of this and will never own another VW due to lovely dealership experience after another. Have you tried calling the 1-800 VW customer service number? They've been pretty helpful when the vehicle in question is still under warranty.
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Sep 15, 2010 00:14
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Exitlights posted:This is basically all speculation though, any outside knowledge here would be very welcome. Since it sounds like you've got some knowledge of what's going on with this RF module I found: if I snapped a picture of the diagram on it explaining what pin goes to what, do you think you could decipher it? 1998, eh? Probably not a CAN-connected module then. Yeah, if you snap some pics of the wiring connector and the PCB, I should be able to figure out a good deal of it. I think your hypothesis is fairly accurate though; it is either using relays to directly switch on/off stuff, or connected via a simple serial bus to the module that controls the door locks and such.
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Sep 15, 2010 05:48
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Hatebreed posted:Local VW dealership refuses to acknowledge left front passenger speaker is blown. I'm loving sick of this and will never own another VW due to lovely dealership experience after another. I'm smiling sadly and nodding as I read this post which also represents my experience with VW service. On a serious note, it's pretty drat easy to tell if one of your speakers is out - just shift sound output to that spot (left front for example) and listen to the speakers. Is yours completely out or just not up to spec?
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Sep 15, 2010 15:50
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I'm still convinced VWs are only good when they're built on a Wednesday. My 04.5 GLI has been perfect. Only issue i've had with it is the brakelight switch went out and the waterpump poo poo itself, both common and easily remedied. My last jetta had all kinds of electrical gremlins though. I'll ask this again since no one responded. My sunroof only seems to open about 90%, but if I close it and cause it to hit the pinch sensor, it will retract all the way into the roof. Any idea why it doesn't open all the way normally?
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Sep 15, 2010 15:57
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veedubfreak posted:I'm still convinced VWs are only good when they're built on a Wednesday. My 04.5 GLI has been perfect. Only issue i've had with it is the brakelight switch went out and the waterpump poo poo itself, both common and easily remedied. My last jetta had all kinds of electrical gremlins though. I'll have a look at a similar car tomorrow and let you know.
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Sep 15, 2010 22:46
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my1999gsr posted:I'll have a look at a similar car tomorrow and let you know. The funny thing is, if it hadn't bound up the other day for some odd reason (hasn't happened again on its own) I never would have even realized it could open as far as it does. Although I have always thought it was kind of lame that it didn't open all the way. I can take pictures of normal and pinched if you need.
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Sep 15, 2010 23:44
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Go ahead and post pics - it'll be good to have something to compare.
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Sep 16, 2010 01:15
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Maybe someone here can help me out with something my dealer couldn't. My 2010 Golf has no key slots on any of the doors (not even the driver's). Is there any way to get into the car if the electronic fob stops working?
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Sep 16, 2010 02:06
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DippingBird posted:Maybe someone here can help me out with something my dealer couldn't. My 2010 Golf has no key slots on any of the doors (not even the driver's). Is there any way to get into the car if the electronic fob stops working? MY GIRLFRIEND'S 08 jetta is the same way and I've always wondered the same thing. The inside door handles open the door regardless of if the door is locked, but that doesn't help if you're outside the car... Also, it doesn't have a key hole for the trunk, so if the keyfob dies you can't open the trunk either (unless you can get inside to the release lever, which makes for a fun catch-22).
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Sep 16, 2010 02:17
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DippingBird posted:Maybe someone here can help me out with something my dealer couldn't. My 2010 Golf has no key slots on any of the doors (not even the driver's). Is there any way to get into the car if the electronic fob stops working? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDevaVKo5Ro
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Sep 16, 2010 02:41
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.JPG) I'm just about done pulling my engine to replace my turbos and fix various other oil leaks. I've traced back some transmission issues to the neutral safety switch that has something to do with the gear shift interlock (I think? Maybe you can verify this) When the car was running, I would put it in reverse and it would pause for a while, before slamming into reverse roughly and all of the gears PRNDS would show up illuminated on the dash. Upon putting it in drive, it seemed as if the car was stuck in a higher gear. I would have to turn it off and on again to get it to engage in 1st gear in drive. Soon, it got to the point where I would have it in reverse, and if my foot wasn't on the pedal, the little foot-on-brake indicator light on the gear shifter would light up - I'd push my foot in and it would click and go away - as if the car was in park. So, since I have the engine pulled, I can access the transmission a bit easier. I'm wondering, however, if it would be possible to turn the car in accessory with the engine removed and shift through the gears, to help troubleshoot repairs. Keep in mind, the wiring harness is entirely removed from all the sensors on the engine, so I don't know if the car will poo poo itself. Also, I don't want to put it in gear and end up moving anything out of sync with the engine. The engine has been removed at the bellhousing. Might seem like a stupid question, but I wanted to verify before I hosed something up majorly. Also, if the problem I described sounds like something other than the neutral safety switch, let me know.
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Sep 16, 2010 04:44
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Wankie posted:It's under a cap. Consider my mind blown.
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Sep 16, 2010 05:24
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My 98 Jetta TDI is leaking (what I assume is) diesel from the engine whenever it's running. I think it would be easiest to tell you where it's leaking from by telling you what it's near. On the side of the engine facing the front of the car, kind of near the top, there's a series of little braiding hoses going from injector(?) to injector all the way down the line. I've had those wear out and leak before, but the new leak is slightly below that. So slightly below that, there's a black plastic(?) thing that goes down to a little metal thing that looks kind of like a nut and goes into the engine. It's kind of bubbling up from where one of those meets the engine. That description was so lovely, I'll post a picture.  Click here for the full 1394x933 image. So what can/should I do about this leak?
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Sep 16, 2010 07:33
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Opensourcepirate posted:My 98 Jetta TDI is leaking (what I assume is) diesel from the engine whenever it's running. I think it would be easiest to tell you where it's leaking from by telling you what it's near. On the side of the engine facing the front of the car, kind of near the top, there's a series of little braiding hoses going from injector(?) to injector all the way down the line. I've had those wear out and leak before, but the new leak is slightly below that. So slightly below that, there's a black plastic(?) thing that goes down to a little metal thing that looks kind of like a nut and goes into the engine. It's kind of bubbling up from where one of those meets the engine. Its probably leaking where the nozzle screws to the injector body or the washer that seals the injector to the head (most likely). Either way the injectors need to be taken out. If they are still the original nozzles and you have more than 100k miles on it they should be replaced anyway, along with the washers. They wear out, the fuel doesn't atomize as well anymore, hot spots in the bowl in the piston can happen and things can get all melty.
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Sep 16, 2010 13:25
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Anyone got any experience with the 70's Sciroccos? Are they fun cars to drive/own?
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Sep 16, 2010 16:54
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Pipkin posted:Its probably leaking where the nozzle screws to the injector body or the washer that seals the injector to the head (most likely). Either way the injectors need to be taken out. If they are still the original nozzles and you have more than 100k miles on it they should be replaced anyway, along with the washers. They wear out, the fuel doesn't atomize as well anymore, hot spots in the bowl in the piston can happen and things can get all melty. So, my nozzles do need to be replaced, but I think where it's leaking from is actually a glow plug?
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Sep 16, 2010 17:55
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Normal operation [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/e740cdecd5644b02378c53c0e1eff562c0b4270c/t/IMG_0109[1].jpg[/img] Pinch censor fuckery [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/2bcc2041ec261822c34fa189547d8b7a7f0ca1dc/t/IMG_0110[1].jpg[/img] On a side note, she's due for 60k too.
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Sep 16, 2010 19:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:Anyone got any experience with the 70's Sciroccos? Are they fun cars to drive/own? I have an 87 16v Scirocco, an 81 Scirocco (for 15 years), and used to have an 83 Rabbit GTI. The 70's Sciroccos are fundamentally the same. They are super fun, really cheap and simple and fun to work on. All of the fellow owners you meet are really cool too, none of the pretentious d-bags you can get with other "nicer" cars. What do you want to know, are you looking at a specific one?
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Sep 16, 2010 22:09
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Pipkin posted:Its probably leaking where the nozzle screws to the injector body or the washer that seals the injector to the head (most likely). Either way the injectors need to be taken out. If they are still the original nozzles and you have more than 100k miles on it they should be replaced anyway, along with the washers. They wear out, the fuel doesn't atomize as well anymore, hot spots in the bowl in the piston can happen and things can get all melty. All true. Corrosion can help ruin the seal between the injector and head and diesel leaks out as a result.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:44
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Neon Machete posted:
The short answer is that it's not likely a bad park/neutral switch that's causing your problems - when they go bad it usually results in a car that won't shift out of park. The symptoms you're having sound like something else. If the PRNDL display lights up and stays lit then there should be a fault logged in the TCM so check that out - odds are the transmission is going into limp-home mode when it sees whatever fault is being logged and keeps it in limp-home till you cycle the key off and on again. The very first thing (aside from pulling the fault codes) would be to dump out the tranny fluid and see how much you have and what condition it's in - checking the fluid and fault codes will go a long way in figuring out what's going on. Be sure to price out the tranny fluid before you dump it out - it might be expensive.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:53
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veedubfreak posted:Normal operation I was able to check this out today and your sunroof operates exactly as it's supposed to - full retract when the pinch protection is tripped but otherwise it only opens as far as yours does. I'm sure there's way to change that with VAGCOM or something but I can't do it with my dealership scantools.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:55
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Opensourcepirate posted:So, my nozzles do need to be replaced, but I think where it's leaking from is actually a glow plug? The fuel is pooled around the base of the glow plug but it looks like there's fuel all over the area. Maybe shampoo the area and see exactly where the leak originates and go from there.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:59
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Alright I need some help. I purchased a 2006 3.2L Audi TT (MKI) last January, and have been trying to find out things about it. (Can I turbo/super charge it, mods, exhaust, this that and the other). The problem I'm having is that almost all searches for a 2006 TT with a 3.2 turn up the MK2 styling, and the only reference I can find to a 2006 MKI TT with a 3.2L and unique ground effects/spoilers/S-Line badging is the 2006 Special 3.2L SE, which is supposed to have a 99 car run. I'm trying to figure out if it's a 2005 with the wrong sticker on the window when I bought it, or if it's a 1 in 99 model. Beyond that, I was looking for ways to up the 250hp.  (Pic for reference) Any Help? High_Life fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 02:57
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You don't have the 1 of 99 special edition cars. The coupes were 2-toned, and there would be a "1 of 99" badge on the glovebox handle. If you car has heated seats, Homelink, or the CD changer, that's more evidence as the special edition cars lacked all of that. There are some monster turboed 3.2 TTs out there. A guy on quattroworld was selling his turbo 6MT coupe recently. I'm honestly not sure about the 2006 Mk.I vs. Mk.II issue, but an online Audi VIN decoder says the 10th digit is the car's model year; 5 indicates 2005 and 6 indicates 2006. Edit: All 3.2 TTs carry S-line badges. What unique spoilers and ground effects are on your car?
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Sep 17, 2010 03:24
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High_Life posted:
Check the VIN. You can find a way to decode them intpmmodel year online.
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Sep 17, 2010 06:22
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veedubfreak posted:Normal operation Take a picture of your sunroof controls, please.
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Sep 17, 2010 07:08
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High_Life posted:Alright I need some help. I purchased a 2006 3.2L Audi TT (MKI) last January, and have been trying to find out things about it. (Can I turbo/super charge it, mods, exhaust, this that and the other). Haldex, turbo, DSG flash... where do you want to start? Keep in mind it will never be "fast" unless you're dumping 10k into a cobbled together HPA kit. Lose the wheels.
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Sep 17, 2010 07:29
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my1999gsr posted:The fuel is pooled around the base of the glow plug but it looks like there's fuel all over the area. Maybe shampoo the area and see exactly where the leak originates and go from there. Yeah, I removed the glow plug, put it back in, and then realized that it was just one of the fuel hoses running above that was leaking. Oh well, I'll be all set if any of my glow plugs goes bad.
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Sep 17, 2010 07:52
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aventari posted:I have an 87 16v Scirocco, an 81 Scirocco (for 15 years), and used to have an 83 Rabbit GTI. The 70's Sciroccos are fundamentally the same. Thanks for the answer! I don't have a specific one in mind, except for the "Mark 1", i.e with round headlights and all. But I'm kinda at a loss when it comes to what I should pay, what to look out for (both good and bad stuff) and so on. I found a 1977 Scirocco GT with a 76HP engine. Looks to be in very good condition.    It's up for $1600 (and then I need to pay for shipping, since it's taken off the road and hasn't been MOTed for a couple of years. Shipping is about $350.). The engine seems a bit weak though. 76 BHP. Hmm.. Edit: gently caress forgot miles. It's done about 137000 miles. Also it's kept in a heated garage. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 11:07
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The perfect thread for me..... 2002 Jetta V6 PLEASE HELP...... BACKGROUND..... For the last few months my car has been kind of "stuttering" off and on. I got a tune up, new plugs, new wires, etc. It runs fine for a few days and then starts stuttering again. I do lots of internet research and discover it may be the MAF sensor. I clean the MAF sensor and again it runs fine for a few days, before stuttering again. I should mention that the stuttering would usually only happen during stop and go driving... once I got to the highway it was usually fine, but I would feel it every once in awhile on the highway just for a second or two. Finally I got an EPC and ASR light warning and the car would do the shut down thing were it has no power. I turned the engine off and restarted it immediately and then it ran like nothing every happened. But I thought ok this is serious and took it to the dealership. I tell them the above and they keep it for a day. When I go to pick it up they say they can't find anything wrong with it. I mention the MAF sensor again. They said that the MAF may be the problem, but they couldn't prove it. Charged me $40 and sent me on my way. It seemed like every other day it would run bad. A few times I would get the EPC/ASR shutdown, but I would just turn the engine off, and then restart the car and it would literally run like new for a few days. I've probably cleaned the MAF sensor 5 times... with the car always running great for a day or two after. TODAY'S PROBLEM.... (which may or may not be related to the above) Last night I drove home from work and it was acting up, but no more than usual. This morning on the way to work it didn't stutter at all, (par for the course). But as I got a block from work my battery light comes on and stays on. As I turn to park I realize I now have no power steering. I park, turn the car off, and restart it with no problem, but the battery light remains on and still had no power steering. I looked under the hood and everything looked fine. I looked underneath the car and it wasn't losing any fluids. The manual says the the battery light being on may mean the belt to the alternator belt may be loose or broken. (I haven't gone back to the car to check this yet.) The manual says nothing about a lose of power steering. I'll try to find the code that they pulled when I took it in and edit may post. Any info and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Sep 17, 2010 14:13
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Losing both the alternator and power steering at the same time is 100% certainly a belt snapping. It's probably completely unrelated to your other problem. I don't know how the Jetta's belts are laid out, but on many vehicles if you lose the belt with the PS and alt you've also lost the water pump, so do not drive the vehicle until you replace the belt unless you're absolutely certain the water pump is still being driven. Overheating will become very expensive very fast. e: If you're lucky the belt's just old and worn. If not, one of the devices driven by the belt is frozen up or putting a lot more drag on the belt than intended and will also need to be repaired or replaced. I know on E36 and E46 BMWs the most common cause of losing the alt/PS/water pump belt is the water pump deciding to commit suicide, in which case one has only seconds to get the car off the road and shut down to avoid major engine damage. wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 15:10
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wolrah posted:Losing both the alternator and power steering at the same time is 100% certainly a belt snapping. It's probably completely unrelated to your other problem. I don't know how the Jetta's belts are laid out, but on many vehicles if you lose the belt with the PS and alt you've also lost the water pump, so do not drive the vehicle until you replace the belt unless you're absolutely certain the water pump is still being driven. Overheating will become very expensive very fast. Thank you so much, that eases my mind a little bit. The VW manual says "you CAN drive to your nearest dealer since the engine coolant pump is by a separate belt. However since the battery will start to discharge, you should switch off all unecessary electrical equipment." My usual mechanic is 17 highway miles away. The closest dealer is probably a good 30 miles away. What do you think? Can I make it? There are a few garages within walking distance of me. I'm going out at lunch, checking the belt and then I'll ask them if they can do anything for me. It would be perfect if they could fix it by 5:00.... but I never have that kind of luck. EDIT: The serpentine belt was shredded. I went to a garage a block away. They are going to get back to me this afternoon. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 15:27
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