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Third post in a row, but screw it, I don't like content-edits that much. What is the absolute best most perfectest way to prep board for edge joining, how much of an investment would it take, and how hard is it? Up until now, I've just been joining after ripping on my tablesaw. Which works fine, but I can see where there would be plenty of room for improvement there.
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Sep 16, 2010 02:04
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A jointer is what you want. http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=552824
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Sep 16, 2010 02:12
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Oh, well, yeah, I guess that what I should have said is "half the time I just glue 'em after they come off the tablesaw, and half the time I use my jointer."  In my case, it mostly depends on how long the board is. I wasn't sure if that was actually considered "best," but I guess there we go.  Similar to the tablesaw maintenance, is there a "best of breed" book re: jointer care and upkeep?
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Sep 16, 2010 02:14
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Absolut_V posted:I have been meaning to ask since I saw this. It looks perfect. Where did you get the plans from? Thanks! I just threw it together from the photos I could find online. The top boards are 2 3/4 and I think the real ones are 2 flat. Pine top, oak bottom, used spray-poly because it's impossible to get in the ribs after you put it together. It's rough, but the wife was threatening to buy a coffee table from walmart, so I had to get it don quickly. Edit: .JPG) Click here for the full 1296x968 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1296x968 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1296x968 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1296x968 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1296x968 image. I need a buy/don't-buy on this lathe, lathe dudes. http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/1956251372.html iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 03:50
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Tried to resaw a 2x6 in half on my vintage Craftsman 10" table saw and failed miserably. I need a bandsaw
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Sep 16, 2010 06:51
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I need some staining advice as I've never done it before. I decided to build a desk out of some old fir we had kicking around the shop. I got the top stained pretty well, ready for a polyurethane coat. However, the front panels are still tacky (8-10hours later). I'm thinking I didn't do my due diligence in wiping off the excess stain. Am I screwed / should I start thinking about replacing those front panels, or should I just wait a little longer for it to dry?
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Sep 16, 2010 18:17
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These: Applied to this:  Makes this!  And from behind:  New miter, new fence, new belt. I think I just tripled or quadrupled the value of this 40-year-old table saw, and it was absolutely worth it. So excited! If I'd know it was going to be that easy to upgrade it so significantly, I would have done it a loooong time ago. When I put that new belt on, I fired it up and holy MOLEY it was smooth. Not an ounce of jiggle, even during spin up and spin down, which was historically the worst part, with lots of shudder. Also, before I could only run my fence out to 24", now I can go all the way to 31+! Woo! Also spent a couple hours sanding the table surface to get it nice and smooth and clean again. It needed some TLC after having been used a bit too much as a workbench.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:32
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Bad Munki posted:And from behind: Looks like the table saw I inherited from my dad except for the stand is solid with the body of the saw. I've got the short round bars and the long 8 foot ones though those are rarely used. The fence and such is still rock solid but I am liking the review of that belt, mine does the same on start up/wind down. Who's the maker?
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Sep 17, 2010 00:20
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Yeah, the stand in my case was built by one of the previous owners (no clue how many hands this saw has gone through...gotta be at least a couple.) The previous rails (the round bars you have) were themselves in fine shape. The problem was that a) there was no way to adjust the fence itself, either to make it parallel with the miter slots, or to make it perpendicular to the surface of the table, and b) at the far end of travel, furthest from the blade, the fence wouldn't grab down on the far bar, making for a lot of flex in the fence. Didn't like that one bit. Anyhow, regarding the belt, I don't know who all makes them, or if it's just the one company. All I know is they're popular and they do a great job. Odds are if you can find a place that sells it, they'll just have a bulk roll you can take off as much as you want. Like 400 or 4000 feet on a roll. At my local place they have it pre-lengthed to a "normal" belt length. I ended up taking out just a couple links until the motor was just not quite able to sit down to the end of its travel when I pressed down on it with a fair amount of pressure. I figure in a month or two I might take out another link, but probably not. As far as the brand goes, I think it's like "Fenner Drives Powertwist Plus" or something like that. Here we go, just googled it and I think this is the stuff: http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_performance_composite_vbelts/powertwist_home.aspx?gclid=CO-7h66OjaQCFVNY2godbFDnGg Go buy it. You will NOT be disappointed. That horrible shudder will almost definitely go away.
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Sep 17, 2010 00:36
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That's a Link-Belt, right? You just pop in/out links to fine tune the length? They carry that at Woodcraft and Rockler, Amazon might even have it. I know someone else makes it because my Dad brought home a length of it he found at the scrap yard. It was black instead of the red kind they market to woodworkers. Not sure if it's a different material or not but it looks the same.
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Sep 17, 2010 00:47
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You can even buy link belts at Harbor Freight, also red, probably all made by the same company.
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Sep 17, 2010 02:03
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iwannabebobdylan posted:Thanks! I just threw it together from the photos I could find online. The top boards are 2 3/4 and I think the real ones are 2 flat. Pine top, oak bottom, used spray-poly because it's impossible to get in the ribs after you put it together. The bench looks spot on. Thanks for posting the pictures. I would like to know how you did the legs in particular.
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Sep 17, 2010 04:18
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Absolut_V posted:The bench looks spot on. Thanks for posting the pictures. I would like to know how you did the legs in particular.  Easiest way possible. I sat on it this morning to put my shoes on and it rocked a bit. If I had built it to sit on I would've boxed the joints, but as it is, I just used glue and nails. Holds a vase and a drink like a champ.
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Sep 17, 2010 14:33
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If I put a board through a planer with the end grain up, such that the planer is effectively cross-cutting the grain, am I pretty much guaranteed massive blowout, or is there a way to minimize that? If it matters, it's hardwood(s) like maple.
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Sep 17, 2010 15:39
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Theory no practice: You could send it through longer by an inch or so than you need and send a chaser board pressed up against it. I'd test it on something else.
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Sep 17, 2010 16:00
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It's a bunch of blocks glued together, so it is what it is...ain't getting any longer. I'm actually considering sending it in, and shutting the planer off halfway, then pulling it out and sending it through the other way, and stopping it halfway again. Then just sanding any aberrations smooth. That way, it'd never get a chance to blow out at the end. Although from a little reading, it looks like a block plane would be the way to go, but that is a tool I currently lack. What would be a good size (or sizes) to get? Should I look for any particular brand? For this particular item, it's the end-grain cutting board linked a couple pages back, so it's a surface about 12x16 that I need to plane down a little. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 16:05
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Nice table saw upgrade. Here's the thing on planing end grain. I've done it, but I have a spiral cutterhead on my planer. I've heard of people having issues with this. Pieces blowing off, shooting out of the planer, and even damaging the planer itself. Really the best way to do it is not having to do it at all. Good glue up practices (cauls,alignment) which I skip because I run them through my drum sander now. I still have to scrape all the glue squeeze out off, that poo poo destroys expensive drum sander paper quick like. Block plane...Look for an old Stanley 60 1/2 with adjustable throat or take a look at Veritas or some of the other modern plane manufacturers.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:33
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ChaoticSeven posted:Block plane...Look for an old Stanley 60 1/2 with adjustable throat or take a look at Veritas or some of the other modern plane manufacturers. Ha, well that's good. I went to my local supplier this afternoon and talked to them about it for a while. They recommended a stanley 60 1/2, which I ended up getting, as well as a 1000/6000 stone and a honing guide cause I'm a sucker for buying stuff.
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Sep 17, 2010 22:34
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End grain planing I've never tried, but I saw a trick for planing pre-cut boards (like cutting boards) where you want to avoid snipe on the ends of the board. Your piece needs to be narrower than your planer. You then take two long pieces the that are the same thickness as your workpiece and carpet tape them on either side of your workpiece, making a big "H" with a fat middle section (that happens to be your workpiece). Run that through the planer and when it snipes, it'll get the sacrificial outriggers and not your workpiece. I've been thinking about a drum sander but they are some serious coin (even from Grizzly). Their baby drum sander isn't too bad, but it'd probably end up not being wide enough.
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Sep 18, 2010 02:08
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Yeah, I did that when I was planing the racetrack pieces for my poker table. Worked like a charm!
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Sep 18, 2010 02:13
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I ordered my bandsaw last week. Backordered until mid-October, which is a pisser because I was really looking forward to getting it. ChaoticSeven, what blade are you using for resawing? I've heard good things about the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking.
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Sep 18, 2010 02:26
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Built that cutting board someone linked a few pages back. I think it turned out nicely, and it is now the nicest thing in our kitchen! Considered changing the pattern a little, but in the end I liked it just the way it was originally presented. Maybe next time, or if I make some more for Christmas, I'll give them different patterns.
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Sep 18, 2010 02:35
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Bad Munki, my old boss had that incra miter and it is lovely.. he also had a fantastic modular aluminum face for it with tracks in it to do about 3 billion different things, might be the handiest thing in the shop besides the vacuum.
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Sep 18, 2010 16:51
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What is the best/cheapest way to round or bevel the edges of a newly built table without a router? Should I buy a handplane and just plane off the corner? Take my palm sander to the edges? Some other neat trick?
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Sep 18, 2010 17:00
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I've seen a little device that looks like a churchkey (you know, one of those little stamped pieces of steel with a bottle opener at one end and a can-piercing spike at the other) except that it has a cutout ground into it with knife-sharp edges. You just drag it along the edge and it cuts away and leaves a perfect radius. You can get them in various sizes. Not sure what they cost, or what they're even called, but I bet that's probably the cheapest way to do it and actually be exact (i.e. you know it's a 1/4" radius). Although of course the shape is limited with such a device.
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Sep 18, 2010 17:16
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Make your own scraper, plus a spokeshave.
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Sep 18, 2010 19:22
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Can anyone tell me how to go about making a clock like this? edit: Interested in understanding the process behind the wood/lcd combo edit2: veneer and super bright leds? kill your sons fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 19, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 22:53
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Saw this just pop up locally on CL http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/1961517915.html Delta 10" table saw I currently have a 70s Craftsman 10" table saw fairly similar to this Delta with cast iron top. Its worked pretty well although struggles with deep cuts but its main drawback is its pathetic rip fence. I was considering buying an aftermarket fence BUT for half the price of a fence, I can buy this entire Delta table with a fence I'm sure is leaps and bounds better than my Sears Do it?
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Sep 19, 2010 04:34
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kill your sons posted:Can anyone tell me how to go about making a clock like this? Could be a veneer, or you could use a sold block and use a plunge router to hollow out the back leaving a really thin front. Those are pretty cool.
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Sep 20, 2010 01:33
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, the stand in my case was built by one of the previous owners (no clue how many hands this saw has gone through...gotta be at least a couple.) As to the belt; my father told me those belts were intended for temporary setups as they wear down much faster than a fixed, regular belt and also stretch quite a bit over time. But he may have been talking about heavier machinery. Must have been 20 years since I last saw one so the details of the discussion are fuzzy. How do you think the saw would preform with a regular belt? One with the perfect length of course.
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Sep 20, 2010 10:43
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kill your sons posted:Can anyone tell me how to go about making a clock like this?
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Sep 20, 2010 16:22
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LordOfThePants posted:I ordered my bandsaw last week. Backordered until mid-October, which is a pisser because I was really looking forward to getting it. I tried Timberwolf blades but they didn't impress me. They supposedly last a lot longer than regular blades but I found the opposite to be true. So far the best resaw blade I've personally used is the something called a "Bladerunner" from Iturra. He has an awesome catalog (no online presence) dedicated mainly to band saws, band saw parts, blades, accessories, history. It's awesome. You can also check out Woodcraftbands.com. They have Starrett blades at decent prices. Iturra Design Jacksonville 904-642-2802 888-722-7078
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Sep 20, 2010 17:05
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Iskariot posted:Great work on the saw! I'm quite inspired by all the excellent repairs in this thread. Back home my grandfather kept a small woodworking room and I should probably go save some old tools before my uncle throws it all away. quote:As to the belt; my father told me those belts were intended for temporary setups as they wear down much faster than a fixed, regular belt and also stretch quite a bit over time. But he may have been talking about heavier machinery. Must have been 20 years since I last saw one so the details of the discussion are fuzzy. How do you think the saw would preform with a regular belt? One with the perfect length of course. While my baseline for comparison is admittedly skewed, I really like the belt. The old one was a standard solid belt, and while it had hardened up over time, there were no cracks visible and it was still quit flexible. The different between the two, though, is absolutely night and day.
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Sep 20, 2010 17:12
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Bad Munki posted:Definitely do that. Throw away?! Yeesh. If they're actually going to get pitched at some point, post here and I bet there will be at least a couple people in your area would would give nut to get snag some of it first. I remember seeing at least a table planner, a band saw, a lathe, a big dust extractor and plenty of hand tools back home. I don't have room for all this (yet!) but maybe some day. For now I plan to do my woodworking with limited space and tools and just take it from there.
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Sep 21, 2010 08:49
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kill your sons posted:Can anyone tell me how to go about making a clock like this? It is a very, very thin veneer with a fairly bright Back light on the LCD. No real trick to it, just thin enough that it is translucent.
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Sep 22, 2010 00:03
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I'm making a cribbage board- do I need to paint lines and numbers/drill holes before staining and finishing the wood or after? I'm really inexperienced when it comes to stains and finishes and whatnot, all my stuff has been rough so far 
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Sep 22, 2010 17:01
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Maybe someone can give me a hand here since I cant get any answers from another aquarium forums. I need a stand for an 18x18x18 saltwater aquarium. I know a 2x4 stand will work but I think it would be massively overkill for it. Would 3/4 inch oak plywood hold it? Built in a similar fashion to this? 
TheUnforgiven fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 25, 2010 14:47
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I need some advice on what tools to buy. I am planning on building a bookshelf that looks something like this (not pictured, a small kickpanel underneath):  I reckon I'm going to use 1" hardwood for all the parts, the design isn't completely finalized yet. I'll need to cut my boards to the right sizes, cut those slits in the middle support and shelves, as well as dado the sides of the bookshelf to receive the shelves. I currently own just a drill and a jigsaw. These tools will obviously not suffice! Help me start amassing the proper amount of powertools a man should own by recommending the right tools (and brands) to complete this job. I assume a circular saw, a router, and a set of chisels right? I'd like to spend under $500 on equipment, but I'm pretty flexible.
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Sep 25, 2010 16:10
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TheUnforgiven posted:Maybe someone can give me a hand here since I cant get any answers from another aquarium forums. Well, an 18x18x18 aquarium is 25.2 gallons, and that would weigh ~210lbs in just water weight. Add another 20-40lbs of sand and another 50-100lbs of live rock, subtract a few gallons (8.35lbs/gal) for volume taken up by other stuff.. I'm sure that box will hold it all, but it seems like it'd be awfully flimsy. Make it so that the top covers all the edges and give it a face frame (mainly to square it all up) and it should be fine. Here's the stand I built for my 90G (48x18x24):  It used 3/4" hardwood ply on the sides and maple for everything else. Everything is screwed/glued and tied together with those 1" risers in the corners / middle just to make sure it doesn't ever want to move side to side. The face frame is actually integral and attached at all sides and the middle. Since I live in California, I didn't want this thing buckling or moving at all in an earthquake and we've had a few since I've built it. I've seen the water splash out of the tank, but not even a moan from the stand.
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Sep 25, 2010 16:28
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optikalus posted:Well, an 18x18x18 aquarium is 25.2 gallons, and that would weigh ~210lbs in just water weight. Add another 20-40lbs of sand and another 50-100lbs of live rock, subtract a few gallons (8.35lbs/gal) for volume taken up by other stuff.. The more I thought about it. The more I'm just going to say screw it and do a 2x4 frame and skin it up. Do I have to lay the 2x4s for the top and lower box frame "vertically?"? I dont know if that makes sense. But I'd like to lay the wood so the wider part is were the aquarium will rest on.
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Sep 25, 2010 17:48
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