|
I've got a '99 Impreza Outback Sport. I bought it in 2005 (it's my third Subaru) and now it's approaching 150k miles. It, like my '95 Impreza LX before it, has a weird shudder/rubbing noise and feel in the steering when turning the wheel while stopped or at low speeds. It bugged me a little with the '95 but it never got any worse so I just tuned it out after a while. It was pretty steady on the '99, until last week when I decided I needed a little adventure and tried to take the back way home one day. Long story short, I was two-tracking in a really swampy area and had a bow wave coming up over the hood of the car a couple times. Ever since then, the rubbing noise and feel has been much worse. Is it a strut mount thing? Is it the steering rack? Is it the column itself? With the '95, I dropped it off at my old mechanic and he was "unable to duplicate the problem" because he only tried it in his gravel driveway. If you turn the wheel on pavement, it's really noticeable. I had tuned it out, but since it's gotten worse it's impossible to ignore.
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 02:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 10:38 |
|
|
TurboLuvah posted:Yeah I am in MA, I have heard EFI was good, Mike from TDC was the guy who initially tuned my car. Thanks! I've heard of the DSG shop, but don't know much about them. Definitely worth a look into. Thanks again! And yeah, coming up on 45k, the banjo bolts were coming back to the front of my mind as a concern. I was contemplating just getting a new set, but if people are just removing the filters, I can probably live with that too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 02:28
|
|
|
I'm going to hit 100kmi pretty soon at the rate I'm going on my 05 STi. So as such, I'm starting to budget doing the timing belt/water pump job. Given the work involved for that end of the business, is there any particular reason why I shouldn't get the headgaskets replaced while I'm at it? Are there any other points of wear that are worth taking care of as far as preventative maintenance go?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 03:14
|
|
|
There is a hell of a lot of difference in work between doing the timing belt and changing the head gaskets, the work doesn't really overlap at all. For the timing belt and water pump, you only need to remove the radiator, accessory belts, crank pulley, and timing belt cover. The engine stays put in the car and you don't even need to raise or lower it. Intake manifold and heads are untouched. You don't even do anything with the intercooler. About the only other preventative maintenance thing that overlaps with the timing belt are the camshaft seals.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 04:17
|
|
|
that and your sti won't have a headgasket issue really ever. cam seals are more trouble then they're worth unless they're leaking. timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump takes less than 3 hours to do. invidia exhausts tend to be loud as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 04:24
|
|
|
Bob Log posted:Has anyone heard anything about 2011 WRX aftermarket exhausts? Perrin. I had the Perrin exhaust on my 08, and I now have the Stealth Exhaust on my 2010 STI. It's the perfect combination of sound without being gently caress off loud or droning on the freeway. Here's a video I made shortly after I got it - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jalqE8PP8sg
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 09:31
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:In the general case, 1993-95 JDM WRXes (and especially STIs) that come here start having tantrums unless you tune them basically immediately. It doesn't help that almost all of them have damaged coilpacks and need an 02+ conversion. There's VERY good reason for that - Japan has 100 RON and ECUs are tuned to suit. You can -just- run a JDM car on Aussie fuel but it's not recommended. 100 RON is extremely good fuel to say the least so even 93 octane from the USA would be unsuitible immediatly. quote:Non-US ecus don't even like to run on our 93 from what I've heard. Wouldnt surprise me. OKAY With MUCH relief we sussed out the misfire on my car to not be the engine or wiring but to a dud coil pack. So I need to get myself some coil packs and while i have it all apart, change the plugs. Any recommendations? What we pulled out of the car was NGK-R PFR6G plugs and Diamond FK0186 coil pack. (Taking the plugs out was fiddly but not actually too bad with the right tools) CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Sep 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 11:54
|
|
|
I would guess this is the best place to ask this, I'm looking at a used 97' legacy outback later today and the current owner has told me that the fuel tank has some issue where you can't fill it over 3/4ths a tank, I believe he said their is a hole in it. Regardless I am not keen on driving it with said hole and am likely gonna have to get the tank repaired/replaced. How much of a pain is it to work on the fuel tank? I know parts alone might be $400 if I have to replace, will it also cost me a arm and a leg for the labor as well? Also front struts might have to get replaced as well after this winter, parts look cheap but how much of a pain is it to do your self?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 14:51
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:There is a hell of a lot of difference in work between doing the timing belt and changing the head gaskets, the work doesn't really overlap at all. jamal posted:that and your sti won't have a headgasket issue really ever. cam seals are more trouble then they're worth unless they're leaking. timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump takes less than 3 hours to do. I'm mostly going after this stuff out of paranoia; my standard of servicing is to try and do as much preventative maintenance as possible to keep the service life up. Unfortunately, most other Subaru 'enthusiast' sites vomit so much intentional disinformation I figure blanket maintenance would be the safest route. Heh this thing is slowly turning into another project car.  Are there any recommended online shops to buy a timing belt kit & water pump from?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 17:18
|
|
|
I just pulled the trigger for my 2011 WRX, put down my desposit and I'm stupid excited. Paid 600 under invoice which according to the dealer is the cheapest they've sold one. They're estimating 6 weeks for delivery! I can't wait!
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 18:03
|
|
|
Bob Log posted:I just pulled the trigger for my 2011 WRX, put down my desposit and I'm stupid excited. Paid 600 under invoice which according to the dealer is the cheapest they've sold one. They're estimating 6 weeks for delivery! I can't wait! You have to take me for a drive in it once you get that sweet piece of uberu
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 18:40
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 19:55
|
|
|
jamal posted:skip the up-pipe and get an intake instead (also we have them in stock). There shouldn't be any change on exhaust fitment for the 2011 wrx and Invidia exhausts seem to be pretty nice. We make downpipes for everything but the only catback we have is for the sti hatch. Skip the up-pipe altogether or do you mean I shouldn't spend on it. I already have the up-pipe from my 02 which I was told will fit the 11 without issue. What intake are you recommending? Sounds like a plan to me but I dunno where you work so I dunno how to order it from ya. Edit: Still selling my 02 wrx parts on I-Club here: http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223033 Bob Log fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Sep 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 20:15
|
|
|
Alright, this isn't necessarily just Subaru related, but I'm going to do this to my '02 WRX. The PO had the side skirts painted. Like everything else the PO did, it's was pretty poor quality and the paint started to bubble off. I tried to sand and feather out the bubbled off portions prior to re-painting, but It wasn't going to happen like I envisioned, so I used some Citrus-something-or-other stripper and stripped it down to bare plastic. It looked pretty good, sans all the scratches I had just made trying to feather out the bubbled off paint  So I'm at a crossroads. I can choose to repaint the sideskirts the body color (I have two cans of stuff from Paintscratch.com), or I can try to get back to the OEM flat black using some Duplicolor Trim Paint that sounds like it will fit the bill as far as look/finish. I'm going to do this next weekend so I'll decide on the final color by then. Regardless of final color, unlike the PO, I'm going to use some adhesion promoter before I put on the color. Two questions dear goons: 1) Do I need to put on primer after I put on the adhesion promoter, or can I go directly to final finish (Google wasn't much help here) 2) Is there anything that will match the bare plastic look, but still cover up sanding/scuff marks better than Duplicolor Trim Paint? I have half a can of SEM Flat Black Vinyl Dye from an old X-Box controller project. Would that look better? Thanks
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 00:08
|
|
|
These are some wheels I got off craigslist, they look like OEM Subaru wheels, but can anyone tell me exactly what model they are? I want to find some center caps for them, and I got these five-sided legacy caps: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160478324262 but they're too big.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 00:25
|
|
|
Legacy wheels from '97-'04 http://www.wheelcollision.com/sub5.htm
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 00:41
|
|
|
Yeah, that looks correct. I just realized the ebay seller didn't even send me what's in the photo. The photo shows 2 different types of caps, the top 4 are what I think I need. The bottom 2 don't fit. He sent me six of the bottom type.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 00:51
|
|
|
You know, I think I like the fact that Subaru puts wheels on their cars that everyone says are "too small." 9 months after I bought my '02, I picked up a set of factory wheels with tires (that had less than 100 miles on them) for $500. Today, I'm looking at ebay and it looks like I could pick up some '08-'10 wheels for about $500 (sans tires). This is likely because everyone complained that 7" width was too small. Suits me just fine. I can get some cheap factory wheels that will look right on the car and slap some all seasons on them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 01:25
|
|
|
I like that Subaru tends to spec wheels of smaller diameter (just clearing the brakes), but they could use more width. 17x7 is good for snow, but that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 01:43
|
|
|
infrared35 posted:It was pretty steady on the '99, until last week when I decided I needed a little adventure and tried to take the back way home one day. Long story short, I was two-tracking in a really swampy area and had a bow wave coming up over the hood of the car a couple times. Ever since then, the rubbing noise and feel has been much worse. Does the problem happen when you're moving, or does it also happen if you turn the wheel with the car stationary? It almost sounds like the center differential binding up, since that wouldn't be noticeable on dirt, and running in a swampy area would work the differential quite a bit, which could exacerbate the problem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 01:59
|
|
|
azflyboy posted:Does the problem happen when you're moving, or does it also happen if you turn the wheel with the car stationary? It's at its worst when the car is standing still; it does it a little when the car is moving but only at lower speeds - of course, I'm not moving the steering wheel that much at higher speeds. The more I pay attention when it happens, the more it seems like it might be the steering column itself. The wheel can make more than one full rotation in either direction. Say I turn the wheel to the left; it makes that rubbing noise as soon as I pass through about 10 o'clock and then again when the top of the wheel comes up through 2 o'clock, and then if I turn it past 12 o'clock, it makes that noise as it passes through 10 o'clock again. And it makes that noise at those same points when I turn the wheel back to its starting position. Same goes for turning it to the right - it vibrates at the 2 and then at the 10, and then at the 2 again. Maybe I should shoot a video of it or something. But just to be clear, the car does it the worst when it's sitting still, and it doesn't matter what gear I'm in (even neutral). It always does it. And it's not a vibration like warped rotors or e drivetrain. It feels like two ill-fitting pieces of metal rubbing harshly against each other. Is there a bearing that's prone to failure somewhere on the steering column? And it does it on soft surfaces too, it's just not as noticeable. infrared35 fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Sep 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 02:15
|
|
|
quadpus posted:These are some wheels I got off craigslist, they look like OEM Subaru wheels, but can anyone tell me exactly what model they are? c355n4 posted:Legacy wheels from '97-'04 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/74726/488363953_wEfXE-L.jpg
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 02:18
|
|
|
syphon posted:Legacy GT wheels, specifically (I think they only came on the GT model). Yours are painted or something, but here's my old LGT with the same wheels. Yep, PO painted them black. I heard back from the ebay seller, he says he didn't know the difference, he just wanted to send me the ones that looked the nicest, and he'll exchange them no problem. I don't care if he sends me the rashed up ones, since I'm going to paint them to match the wheels.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 03:45
|
|
|
nm posted:I like that Subaru tends to spec wheels of smaller diameter (just clearing the brakes), but they could use more width. 17x7 is good for snow, but that's about it. I want a set of the 17x8 2011 WRX wheels for my 07 Wagon. So. Bad.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 04:13
|
|
|
Attempting to find a grille for my beater. I believe it is a 91. I've bought a grille for a 91 and a 93 so far, neither have fit. What grille will fit this drat car?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 20:45
|
|
|
Are you sure the '93 didn't fit? I believe those Legacy's are divided in 2 groups... "pre" and "post" facelift. The '89-'92 were pre-facelift, then '93-94 were post-facelift. A couple GIS links... look at the shape of the headlights for your biggest clue. Pre-Facelift: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/archive/7/7a/20071221220410!Subaru_legacy_rs-ra_02.jpg Post-Facelift: http://www.meekerautosales.com/user/car7/images/car7.jpg
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 20:58
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure it didn't fit. This is what I bought initially: The seller told me it would fit, even though I had a wagon. He was wrong and I'm stupid for not doing more research. I picked it up for cheap so I didn't care much. This is the second one I got, thinking it would fit:  At this point I don't know what the gently caress. Neither have come close to fitting. Feeling like a retard right about now. epic Kingdom Hearts LP fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 21:03
|
|
|
first grill you have is for an impreza, secomd is for a 90-91. here's one that fits
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 21:14
|
|
|
Thank you. Are you absolutely sure it will fit? I don't mean to doubt anyone, I've just spent a bit of cash so far and would like this to be the last time I have to. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
Picked it up today, can't wait for it to stop raining so I can take proper pics Click here for the full 1000x669 image.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 03:02
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:There's VERY good reason for that - Japan has 100 RON and ECUs are tuned to suit. You can -just- run a JDM car on Aussie fuel but it's not recommended. 100 RON is extremely good fuel to say the least so even 93 octane from the USA would be unsuitible immediatly. Totally different octane ratings. here its (RON+MON)/2. quote:Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON, Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, the octane rating shown in the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the rating shown elsewhere in the world for the same fuel. See the table in the following section for a comparison.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 04:14
|
|
|
superdylan posted:Picked it up today, can't wait for it to stop raining so I can take proper pics I hate you only because I won't be able to pick mine up till nov 1st most likely. I think we're all going with the Dark Gray Metallic, hah. Make sure you clay bar that poo poo right away and get it nice and shiny! I have specific instructions for the dealer to not even remove the plastic till I get there and under no circumstances do I want their detailers touching it. The car is going from Dealer to Tuner to My house for a religious wash and wax. Ugh gently caress you I can't wait.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 04:24
|
|
|
superdylan posted:Picked it up today, can't wait for it to stop raining so I can take proper pics I'm having a hard enough time waiting for mine to come in without stuff like this. Looks great though, have fun.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 04:26
|
|
|
Baby Hitler posted:Totally different octane ratings. here its (RON+MON)/2. Yes I *know* that, which is why Japan got 100RON and the USA 93 octane. Point remains, the ECU's of JDM cars poo poo themselves on anything less than 98 RON and even then that's highly not recommended.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 06:02
|
|
|
superdylan posted:Picked it up today, can't wait for it to stop raining so I can take proper pics I really like the crazy face these new front ends got going on.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 11:57
|
|
|
I have a general question about WRX/STi's as it pertains to the ongoing discussion of gasoline grades in the US versus Japan. I know that there are turbo cars out there that can increase boost when you run them on e85. I know how the whole e85 higher true octane rating + charge cooling effect allows people to run higher boost. My question is this: I am thinking about buying an STi in the next few years. I live in the middle of corn field Indiana, and e85 is pretty plentiful around here. Can the WRX and STi fuel systems handle e85 stock, or do you need new fuel lines? And what kind of performance are people getting using e85? The idea of being able to put cheap, gubmint subsidised go fast gas into an STi excites me. Indiana also has the benefit of having no goddamn inspections whatsoever, so I was envisioning a new STi with a catless turboback exhaust, a new intake, and an Accessport with an e85 tune, and I wondered exactly how much power that might net someone?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 15:46
|
|
|
Can't say for certain but I'd be willing to bet the stock fuel system can't pump enough E85 for the requisite amount of boost you can run with it nor would the fuel lines be able to run the corrosive ethanol. Not sure what an STi can lay down with E85 but I think the 4G63 people all were able to put down north of 300whp while being "stock-ish"
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 16:00
|
|
|
If my memory is correct, the last E85 Impreza I saw had to replace the fuel pump, injectors and fuel lines in order to crank out that much fuel. You will also need a tune in order to take advantage, of course.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 16:02
|
|
|
Ethanol conversions for turbo'd Subarus are actually pretty well documented at this point I believe. I haven't heard of any problems with degradation of rubber components with ethanol and most of the time it just requires an injector and/or a fuel pump upgrade along with a tune to do a "switch" over to E85.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 16:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 10:38 |
|
|
Huge_Midget posted:I have a general question about WRX/STi's as it pertains to the ongoing discussion of gasoline grades in the US versus Japan. I know that there are turbo cars out there that can increase boost when you run them on e85. I know how the whole e85 higher true octane rating + charge cooling effect allows people to run higher boost. My question is this: I am thinking about buying an STi in the next few years. I live in the middle of corn field Indiana, and e85 is pretty plentiful around here. Can the WRX and STi fuel systems handle e85 stock, or do you need new fuel lines? And what kind of performance are people getting using e85? The idea of being able to put cheap, gubmint subsidised go fast gas into an STi excites me. Indiana also has the benefit of having no goddamn inspections whatsoever, so I was envisioning a new STi with a catless turboback exhaust, a new intake, and an Accessport with an e85 tune, and I wondered exactly how much power that might net someone? Bigger injectors and a 255 fuel pump are basically always required if you want to make big power. But to answer your question somewhat directly: Yes. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987903&highlight=e85  
Amandyke fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Sep 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 17:11
|
|