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Nerobro posted:An hour? who did you hear that from. You run it till the water turns grey. Runnign brushed motors under water massively accelerates brush wear. The whole point of running them underwater is to seat the brushes. :-) It gives you the "broken in" brushes, without the "worn out" bushings. I just read this and then had to go wander around the old rc forums I used to read and didn't find any mentions of an hour. I seem to recall some of the older guys doing things like that. I've never properly broken in a brushed motor because I've never had to use them for any period of time.
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Sep 19, 2010 03:45
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if you go past 5 mins, you'll likely not have any brushes left :-) I painted my LXT body tonight. I should paint the wheel inserts. But I can't be bothered. I did find out my lxt stil has it's Teikin 410s in it, and the Ruby 16T Triple in it. And a reciever.. and I even found my transmitter.
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Sep 19, 2010 04:00
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Is this based on a mini-z ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eY5Vw_ejQSA
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Sep 19, 2010 20:32
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Nerobro posted:I fly. well I used to. Wow, you've been around the block a bit with the planes, huh? I just resurrected my old GWS Slow Stick with a 2200Mah Lipo and a Hobby King brushless system. I promptly fried the motor yesterday, because HK said it was good for 3S, but its not, THANKS HOBBY KING  So now I guess I'm going to run the stock brushed setup until I can find a good brushless system to replace it with. In other news, I love lipos and Traxxas battery connectors. I now run lipos in my plane and my Traxxas Stampede, they all use the same connector, they all get balanced by ye olde blinky balancer, and all of them work in either the plane or the truck. Deans plugs are dead to me now.
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Sep 20, 2010 02:29
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I"m in the process of building up a new set of cars for the local "local" track. Which means.. I'm ordering a lipo charger. I think i'm going to pay the "shop tax" on the battery, and maybe even the chassis for the FWD car. The dude there spent two hours talking to me. I also had the funny idea of just handing him $40. Maybe in addition to buying a few good margin items.
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Sep 20, 2010 04:33
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Nerobro posted:Which means.. I'm ordering a lipo charger. I think i'm going to pay the "shop tax" on the battery, and maybe even the chassis for the FWD car. The dude there spent two hours talking to me. I also had the funny idea of just handing him $40. Maybe in addition to buying a few good margin items. Don't do it! Chassis of the car, sure. Charger, maybe. Don't buy your batteries from the LHS, though, christ. You could buy FIVE LiPos from Hobbyking for the price of one equivalent battery stateside. If 60% of them exploded (not the case, I've had zero problems with their Turnigy stuff and thousands of good reviews say the same), you'd still be effectively paying half-price.
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Sep 20, 2010 04:57
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I just waited over a month to get a battery, esc and motor from hobby king. Their poo poo is cheap, but it's also on the slowest slow boat from china, quite literally. There are plenty of us retailers that have batteries cheaper than the lhs, and you won't have to wait for a month for them to ship. I generally agree on not getting batteries from the lhs though, the markup is insane. I make it up by buying about a million fiddly little parts per week that I can't wait for shipping on.
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Sep 20, 2010 06:17
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I rely on my LHS for my nitro, but that's only because I don't feel like waiting for shipping, and you can only ship 1qt at a time anyways  Besides... $15 for a quart of 20% Nitromethane or $35 for a gallon isn't too bad... right?
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Sep 20, 2010 06:31
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Phat_Albert posted:I just waited over a month to get a battery, esc and motor from hobby king. Their poo poo is cheap, but it's also on the slowest slow boat from china, quite literally. I ordered 3 LiPo's and a charger from HK on the 9th. It was delivered on Friday (the 18th) 9 days isn't bad from Singapore.
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Sep 20, 2010 07:19
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Yeah, I've made a bunch of orders through HK and I've never had them take longer than two weeks (to the western USA), and 10 days is about normal. No, the problem with them is that half the stuff they advertise is out of stock, and they usually just outright don't know when stuff will be back in. Of course, since it's China, they won't actually tell you that they don't know (not being racist -- it's just how business works there) and instead will leave things on "arriving in 3-4 days" for weeks or months at a time. Ask their support staff directly and they'll admit they don't know but that won't ever go up on the site. Frustrating, but the company is absolutely worth it for things that you don't need immediately or to stock up on parts for the future. I like to pad out my orders with miscellaneous things like glues, screws and plugs.
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Sep 20, 2010 07:32
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orange lime posted:Don't do it! I do understand this. I think you missed something. nerobro posted:I'm ordering a lipo charger. I think i'm going to pay the "shop tax" on the battery, and maybe even the chassis for the FWD car. The dude there spent two hours talking to me.
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Sep 20, 2010 07:35
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Oh christ I think my Revo's tranny just ate itself  No more forward gear, then in the middle of trying to burn off the last of the fuel, it suddenly lost reverse and the engine went WOT and screamed until i rushed over, ripped the body off, and held the fuel cutoff until it died. gently caress
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Sep 23, 2010 06:00
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Fixed my Mini-Z tonight. .... I have no freaking clue why I kept buying xmods now. Time to sell them. Speaking of which? anyone wanna buy some xmods? :-) $25 each plus shipping for the two that have been used. They will come with all the upgrade parts appropriate for each.
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Sep 24, 2010 04:07
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 This thing just landed on my doorstep (Losi 8ight-t 2.0 RTR). Not really looking forward to breaking in the engine, but I can't wait to hit the desert with it to snap parts & lose bolts.
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Sep 24, 2010 04:10
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Nerobro posted:Fixed my Mini-Z tonight. .... I have no freaking clue why I kept buying xmods now. Time to sell them.  tuna posted:Just wondering if any non-racers actually like this body style?
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Sep 26, 2010 20:07
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krushgroove posted:I didn't want to harsh your buzz about your Xmods but I was wondering why you had them after experiencing Mini-Z cars I like it, but it needs different wheels and tires to be really cool (from a purely aesthetic standpoint)
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Sep 26, 2010 20:13
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Spatule posted:Is this based on a mini-z ? My guess would be one of these based on the Tx, wheels, and size. http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0241
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Sep 26, 2010 20:34
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krushgroove posted:I didn't want to harsh your buzz about your Xmods but I was wondering why you had them after experiencing Mini-Z cars I was enchanted by the price, and I hadn't actually driven my Mini-Z in two or three years by the time I bought the x-mods. it's the difference between a "real" r/c car, and a $50 pos from .. uh.. radio shack. So.. they're going on ebay tomorrow.
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Sep 26, 2010 21:15
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Sloppy posted:I like it, but it needs different wheels and tires to be really cool (from a purely aesthetic standpoint) Yeah it looks a lot better with spoked wheels and spikier tyres. The body shape is okay but I prefer other non-truggy designs better. However, I'll stay with whatever gets the most cooling to the engine head, because in the 90 degree Californian shade, these engines overheat quick. Telemetry data on the Spektrum gear is sort of gimicky, but its useful when it beeps at you, warning your engine is reaching 300F. I took it out into the hills for a bit of tuning today on a really dusty fire road. SO fun. This video shows how dusty it was getting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STMn0SxlJ88&hd=1  It got to the point where it was kicking up so much dust, it completely blocked visibility of the road. Time to dismantle and clean.
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Sep 27, 2010 02:56
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The local hobby shop here hosts some parking-lot racing every couple of weeks, and watching them has turned me from a lifetime of "Man, I wish I had a nice R/C car" to "OK, so which kit should I start with?" I'm torn between the Traxxas Slash or the Team Associated TC4. The truck looks like an absolute blast to drive, and the advantage of it is I'd be able to run it at home off-road... but I don't get quite as excited about the trucks as I do the 1/10 cars. I don't know a whole lot, so I'm reading up like crazy. I'll probably pick up whichever I choose in a couple of weeks (waiting on check from client). I'm leaning towards probably going with the TC4 now to get me past the "oooooh ahhhhh just what I always wanted" stage, playing with that, then maybe this spring getting a Slash if I'm still into it. If I go that route, I'm wondering: What are some of the first reasonable 'upgrades' to a setup like this? Are all 190mm bodies interchangeable (ie, is a 190mm body from HPI going to fit on the TC4 chassis)? Would I be better off with a different kit?
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Oct 3, 2010 04:50
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TremorX posted:What are some of the first reasonable 'upgrades' to a setup like this? quote:Are all 190mm bodies interchangeable (ie, is a 190mm body from HPI going to fit on the TC4 chassis)? quote:Would I be better off with a different kit?
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Oct 3, 2010 22:44
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Yeah, my local shop does mostly Traxxas and AE so I figured I'd stick with those - at least while I'm getting started. Any recommendations on a specific charger? I definitely want one that I can use my truck's battery so I can recharge when I'm not at home. I'm as excited as a little kid about getting into this! I fell in love with and have wanted a GOOD R/C car since I was 11 (and I'm 32 now).
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Oct 4, 2010 00:09
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TremorX posted:Yeah, my local shop does mostly Traxxas and AE so I figured I'd stick with those - at least while I'm getting started. Any recommendations on a specific charger? I definitely want one that I can use my truck's battery so I can recharge when I'm not at home. I recommend one of these if you can ever get it in stock. I have one and it's great -- I think that the NiMH delta-peak detection is a little wonky, so you have to manually set the capacity for those, but I have very few NiMH batteries as it is anyway. Works perfectly for lithium chemistries.
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Oct 4, 2010 00:16
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Sorry for more pics of the same truggy, but before, filthy and dusty and lots of plastic: Took off plastic parts, now spares (everybody needs spares).  1 week of dropping tiny screws and half a can of WD40 later... Shiny new alu/carbon parts!   Holy gently caress am I sick of tightening tiny screws 1/4 turn at a time in awkward cravesses. You seriously need 4 hands to work on these things.
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Oct 5, 2010 09:11
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So.. that's it. I'm going racing. I'm going Tamiya Mini racing. So far I have servos, a radio, and a charger. I am trying to get my hands on a 2c lipo that will fit in the M05 tamiya chassis. Thats a little harder than one would imagine. At least at a reasonable price. This weekend I'll be buying a chassis and assembling/painting it. I am pretty excited.
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Oct 5, 2010 21:10
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Nerobro posted:So.. that's it. I'm going racing. Run the car as low as you possibly can. The M05 doesn't suffer from traction roll as the M03, but it is still best to run it low due to the tall shells.
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Oct 5, 2010 22:38
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And I'll have it on the carpet track, so I can run it scary low. I think there's a 5mm ride height rule at the local track though. I am having some trouble finding batteries. If I didn't want to keep it TCS legal, I'd just grind out the battery tray, but you can't modify the chassis at all for TCS. I've got an e-mail in with the local shop. Something tells me they can match the tower price for the fiat 500 arbath M05 kit. Everyone at the track seems nice. So I'll be able to get setup tips. I also watched horizon hobbies review, and appearantly the hot ticket is to run soft springs on all the corners and run 450 weight oil in the shocks.
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Oct 5, 2010 22:46
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Don't the Orion stick pack shaped Lipos fit the Minis? All the Mini racers at my local club run 3200 stickpack shaped Lipos in their Minis.
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Oct 5, 2010 22:57
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Just curious... when you guys are referring to Tamiya Minis, are we talking the 1/32 scale 4wd ones that are like, under $20 that i'm seeing all over Amazon? Because if so... I think I might get into this too, these things look rad as all hell. EDIT: Apparently not. Seems you guys mean the 1/10 scale. Damnit, I was so stoked for the idea of 1/32 scale racing... T1g4h fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 02:59
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My LHS just ripped out their carpet road course to build another dirt track. Which is cool because I have 1/10th scale truck I can run on it, but sucks because thats one less place for the road guys to race and I dont want to see any part of the R/C hobby go away around here, since the chicago area is the socal of the midwest, we love our RC stuff. That was a big sentence. In other news, I plowed my slow stick into a tree at about 30mph, and I'm just finishing rebuilding it. This time I put a 3/8" dowel down the fuselage though, so hopefully that will make things a little tougher, as the stock fuse bends if you look at it wrong. Also reinforced the wings, elevator, and rudder with fiberglass rods. Hope to get it in the air in the next day or so to try my hand at some aerial photography.
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Oct 7, 2010 17:36
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I now own a swift bodied Tamiya M05, a brand new duratrax 4000mah battery, a 2.4 gig radio, reciever, and a nice forward only ESC. I got it used. The thing is A B U S E D. Yet it's hardly been run. That's to say the PO was an idiot. I spent two hours tonight redoing the wiring. Before it had 1/4lb of lead, and exposed positives! Thank god it is a plastic chassis. The rear is set so low that it drags under acceleration. Basicly, I need to rebuild, and clean the car. It's also missing about 10% of it's fastners. Say the least, those are gonna get replaced too. I picked up a Ti screw set for that purpose. The advantage of buying this abused kit, is I spent $130 for a good ESC, 2.4 gig radio, a decent servo, bearings, aluminum knuckles, ti universals, and oil filled dampers. For $30 less than a "new" kit. For $285 I walked out with servo tape, shock oil, a Ti screw kit, a set of deans plugs, 3' of 13ga high strand count wire, shock spacer clips, the car/radio/esc, and the battery. Now.. I need to learn how to drive it properly. And I think I need to buy sticky tires for both ends. This "medium on one end" poo poo is for the birds. FYI, 1/28 cars don't handle well on well worn r/c carpet. However, on the nicer parts, my Mini-Z ran pretty well. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Oct 9, 2010 |
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Oct 9, 2010 07:26
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So I went ahead and bought (the seemingly universally reviled) Losi Strike SCT. Honestly, I really like it so far, but I don't have a lot to compare it to. I've ordered a steel idler gear, CVD shaft, and a ball diff to upgrade it this week, which seems to fix most of the weak-spots that most people gripe about. It was dirt cheap and came with everything from my LHS... complete truck, 2.4ghz tx, 2 NiMH batteries (which I'll replace with LiPo or LiFe in a couple of weeks) and a charger. It's doing a great job of getting me over that "Wooo an ACTUAL R/C car! That wasn't bought at a retail store or Radio Shack! VROOOOOOOM" hump. My son and I set up an impromptu track in the front yard yesterday using some landscape timbers, logs, an old desk for a ramp, and whatever else we could find in the yard and had a blast. I'll be glad when I ditch these 2400mAh batteries, 10 minutes of bashing around in the grass just ain't enough.
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Oct 9, 2010 20:17
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So... august 7th I ordered a Syma S032 3 channel helicopter from somewhere in china. Oct 7 I got a refund from ebay because the item hadn't shown. I got my money back. Oct 8, a package shows up. The helicopter. I tried to fly it out of the box, like I could with my Syma S107's. It hovered for a minute, and then settled down to the ground. I pulled the battery, and went to charge it with my fancy lipo charger. I decide to charge it at 2c. About 5 mins into the charging cycle the charger said not connected... So I set the charge to go at 1c, and it completed a charging cycle. I put said charged battery into the helicopter, and it flew... for about 30 seconds at a time, at which point the heli would lose power, fall, then restart the motors. Figuring it was the battery, I scrounged a battery from an old mp3 player. Put on the right connector and hooked it up to the helicopter. It will now run full throttle for more than a minute without shutting down. Sadly this MP3 player LiIon battery is metal cased, and while three times the capacity, is beyond the helicopters ability to lift on anything but the very peak charge of the cell. That said, I have a new pack coming, and it looks like I"ll have an outdoor capable heli soon. Yey!
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Oct 14, 2010 07:18
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Since this seems to be the closest thing to a RC-megathread on SA, I‘ll have to ask here: When the heck did RC-planes become so cheap? I last flew 5 years ago with a Zagi foam wing plane and recall that it cost me around $400 all set up with a cheap 480 brushed motor. Now today I stumbled upon a Youtube channel by accident and found tons brushless EDF foam planes that look extremely awesome and seem to fly well too. Most of them cost <$200 RTF with 2.4 Ghz Radio, Motor, ESC and LiPo Battery.  F4A Phantom MIG 15 F-14 with working Sweepback Wings The F-14 looks freaking amazing in particular.     How am I supposed to not buy one of these? Or two, or three… 
eames fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Oct 16, 2010 |
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Oct 16, 2010 12:38
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eames posted:When the heck did RC-planes become so cheap? I last flew 5 years ago with a Zagi foam wing plane and recall that it cost me around $400 all set up with a cheap 480 brushed motor. When (1) brushless motors and lithium batteries got powerful enough to rival gas engines, and (2) Chinese sweatshops started mass-producing them. Best sources: hobbyking, hobbypartz. Hobbyking has better prices and more selection, but you have to just accept that the popular things like what I've linked below are almost never in stock -- set up a watch list and buy it the second you get the email. I have a couple of Chinese airplanes, and they're generally great with just a few caveats. First of all, don't get the RTF models; the radios are a waste when you can get this great fully programmable 2.4 GHz 9-channel JR knockoff (what I use) for $55. This is especially a good idea if you want to get into bigger things with extra channels, like gear or flaps or the F-14's wing sweep. The Turnigy I linked has a crapload of software mixing controls -- you can define v-tails and flaperons and elevons automatically, and there are a bunch of fully open programmable custom mixes as well, so you could do something crazy like tie the F-14's wing sweep to the throttle setting. I even managed to replace the cheapy included radio for a radio shack coaxial helicopter by putting both the main rotor motors on separate channels and programming one stick to adjust power equally (throttle), and the other channel to adjust differential power offset (yaw).  Same goes for the chargers -- get something that can balance cells and charge multiple types, like this one for $22 (also what I use). So, get a plug-and-fly version where you supply your own radio set and battery instead and you'll be much happier in the future. Second, accept that one of the reasons the planes are so cheap is because they don't hire any QC inspectors; even if you get an RTF, you'll want to disassemble the whole thing and check for interference and poorly-set linkages, and loctite all the screws before you fly for the first time. My favorite little chinese plane required a fair bit of judicious xacto-knife work to get all the electronics to fit inside and to keep the aileron servo from binding, but it's fun. Oh, and while this has never happened to me, it's also possible that the servos might poo poo themselves sooner rather than later or the ESC could cook itself, but if you stay in the recommended specs you should be fine and a replacement is only a few dollars on Hobbyking anyway. Also, jets are sweet, but they are really fast, and these accurate models have all the problems of the real thing, such as high stall speeds and high wing loading. If you've been away from RC flight for a while and have never flown a jet, you're going to crash it, so get something made of EPO foam. Expanded polyolefin is an expanded foam like styrofoam, but it's much more flexible and rubbery in crashes. You can tear or puncture it with a really hard impact, but it'll usually just bounce and deform somewhat (fix with a hair dryer) in crashes that would completely shatter a rigid styrofoam model. Wall of text! So to sum up: 1) get the plug-and-fly version, preferably made of EPO foam, and supply your own radio 2) make sure you check everything for inscrutable Chinese weirdness before you fly 3) accept that it probably won't be as reliable as the "real thing" and you will have zero support outside online forums if something breaks, so you get to experiment (but that's half the fun of RC stuff!) If you can handle those things, they're great fun and I have trouble stopping myself from adding to the hangar whenever I see a new cool one. Right now I really want an F-104, which I imagine will have time-between-crashes of seconds to minutes :iamafag: [e] If you want an Accucel-6 charger, BUY IT NOW from the above link. They're in stock as of 1pm pacific time on October 16, and will sell out really fast, and how the hell can you justify NOT getting a 50-watt computerized battery charger/balancer for $22 + shipping? Seriously. orange lime fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 16, 2010 21:21
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I can already feel my bank account hating me. I used to fly a lot (raced cars/offroad also) and stopped for about 7 yrs. Lately I have been feeling some serious itching to start flying again. I've still got some of my planes and gear but will need to upgrade my radios (no more loving pin boards! holy poo poo yes!) I've got a Kadet LT-40 kit still in box that I'm going to put together to re-learn how to fly. Its the same model that I originally learned how to fly bigger planes with and it held up great. I had originally bought the kit so I could make some modifications to it mostly flattening out the dihedral and giving the bottom of the wing a tiny bit of curve. I'm going to make a second set of wing parts out of the originals so I can keep the original as templates to make those modifications with eventually. So here goes, time to puchase a bunch of glue and electronics and spend some happy times in the garage building planes again. woohooo!
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Oct 16, 2010 22:33
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orange lime posted:
Thanks a bunch for that writeup. I ordered that radio, charger, plane and a battery just now and ended up paying just under 100€ including shipping to europe. I knew that the RTF radios are useless, so I prepared to shell out the cash for a Hitech Aurora 9 which really would have been overkill. You just saved me a bunch of cash! It feels like all of these prices are off by the order of a magnitude. You go, china.  //edit: oh god, there’s an open source replacement firmware project for that radio going on at http://code.google.com/p/th9x/ //edit2: Maybe you could open a thread for RC aviation over at ask/tell with a high quality OP like that? eames fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Oct 16, 2010 |
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Oct 16, 2010 23:36
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Yeah, China has really changed the R/C game. What used to cost thousands to get up and running a decade or so ago can now be had for a few hundred. The thing that sucks about HobbyKing though is that the shipping takes forever, the quality can be hit or miss, and popular things sell out literally in hours. They did just open a US warehouse though, so the shipping thing may change. Some of the popular motors, esc's, and batteries can be had here: http://www.headsuprc.com They ship quickly from the US.
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Oct 17, 2010 00:35
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I really do love my little Cessna  I was out flying it today. It's small enough that I can fly it at a local baseball diamond, and while I was there, a couple of kids showed up -- maybe 10 or 12 years old. I hear this "AWESOME!!!!!" and then a whole bunch of "THAT IS SO COOL THAT IS THE MOST AWESOME THING EVER" and so on. I turn around and the kids are pressed up against the fence staring at the plane. So I got kind of cocky and started doing knife-edges back and forth between the stadium lighting posts. It was going great and they seemed really hooked...then I pulled one too tight and clipped the edge of one of the little ladder handholds running up the side. SMACK and the wing comes flying off, fluttering down, while the fuselage spirals straight for the ground and smashes in nose-first. So I run up and collect the pieces, dreading buying a new motor and rebuilding the fuselage and pulling out snapped linkages...and this is the total amount of damage. (I fly it with the cowling off)  In detail -- one notch in the wing:  And a slightly crushed nose behind the motor mount:  The motor shaft got slightly bent as well but I already bent that out with pliers. No damage to the electronics, control surfaces or linkages -- this after a 30mph impact into a lamp-post studded with half-inch metal rods, followed by a hundred-foot lawn-dart! The wing will take about 30 seconds and a nickel's worth of packing tape to fix, and the nose will get gorilla-glued and reinforced with some thin styrene sheet, and it'll be good to go again. If I'd done this in the F-35 I'd probably have destroyed the wing and the nose completely, and I don't even want to think about what this would have done to the helicopter. EPO is great stuff Oh, and as to making an ask-tell thread -- eh, I'll think about it. I don't have a whole lot of extra time at the moment and I hate A/T threads where the OP only shows up once a week or something. Maybe later though! [e] compare the damage to my plane to the stuff at about 0:24 and on in this video. That's what happens with a traditional balsa or styrofoam airframe when you crash. I'm really not kidding when I say that EPO bounces! [e2] that woman (man?) at 0:38 is probably really, really happy that it was a glider. If that thing had a spinning prop,  would be pretty appropriatehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fs31uKdk4Sk [e3 mega-post!] it looks like the custom firmware you found is for the V1 Turnigy 9X, while what they're selling and what I have is the V2. I don't know if they're compatible -- I know that the V2 has a much better spread-spectrum algorithm, better than many of the $500+ Futabas and Spektrums and so on, and so their receivers are incompatible with each other. The V2 does have significantly improved firmware over the V1 though so you may not need the open-source stuff, as cool as the idea is. FYI these are the receivers that will bind with your new radio, since the official ones for the 9X are never, ever in stock. Like I've had them on my watchlist since early August and they haven't been in stock once. The official Turnigy ones are the only 8-channels (I know it says 9 on the transmitter box, but to get the 9th channel you need to use a modulation mode on your transmitter that isn't compatible with any of the receivers ) that I know of, but most planes take from 3 to 5 channels anyway so no prob. Some of the other hobbyking ones might also bind, but I haven't tried them so I don't know for sure.8-channel: this 6-channel: this or this 3-channel, for small planes or cars: this Compare the prices on those to Futaba-branded ones! It really is close to an order of magnitude. Ridiculous. You could buy 5, have 60% crap out (I have had zero problems) and still have paid half the price for twice as many receivers. /end rambling orange lime fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Oct 17, 2010 |
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Oct 17, 2010 00:53
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You should try to make a video of that little Cessna!  I’m going to fly its little brother in the 1:1 version next week as part of my my private pilot license training, yay! Anyway, all of those prices on hobbyking are completely stupid. Receivers for <10$ and you dont even need a crystal for it. And the planes! I’d be surprised if I have less than five lying around by the end of this year. Whether shiny and complete or in shreds is a different question. Was the expo/dualrate behavior fixed for version 2 of the transmitter? I keep reading that activating expo disables dual-rate (or vice versa) which seems all kinds of stupid to me. (You could also open a megathread in GBS if you don’t want to maintain the A/T thread. I would if I had the knowledge to write up a neat OP for it. Yeah, ok, I’m useless and lazy.  )
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Oct 17, 2010 02:17
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