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johndoe7776059 posted:Your system takes full height cards, so no problems there. As for length, the 5670 is a pretty short card, and looking at the picture of the inside of your case, it looks like it should fit not problem. Cool. Now, I've looked into the 5670s and apparently there are a lot of different versions. Some are more expensive and have more memory than the one linked earlier, but as long as it doesn't need external power my 300W should be enough since it can only get so much power through the PCI-E interface, right? What about this one?. Older card, is that a good price? ClearAirTurbulence fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Sep 26, 2010 |
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Sep 26, 2010 01:53
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ClearAirTurbulence posted:Cool. Now, I've looked into the 5670s and apparently there are a lot of different versions. Some are more expensive and have more memory than the one linked earlier, but as long as it doesn't need external power my 300W should be enough since it can only get so much power through the PCI-E interface, right? The 8400GS isn't a gaming card. It has enough power to run windows Areo and playback HD video, but that's about it. Civ V lists a 7900gs as the minimum required graphics card, and a 8400gs is a lot slower than that. Once you get more than ~$20 or so cheaper than a 5670, you aren't going to get a gaming card anymore. There isn't a point to getting a 5670 with 1GB of ram, the card isn't powerful enough to take advantage of it.
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Sep 26, 2010 03:11
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Hey everyone, i have a quick question. Im in california right now but will soon be returning to Montreal in Canada for school. I need a "proxy" to post through to make it look like i'm still in california for business reasons. I have multiple computers i can leave on 24/7 here in california. Is there some software i could put on it to post on the internet through the CA machine? The only solution i can think of right now is full remote access programs but i would like something a little faster and simpler. Thanks in advance for any answers!
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Sep 26, 2010 06:54
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johndoe7776059 posted:There isn't a point to getting a 5670 with 1GB of ram, the card isn't powerful enough to take advantage of it. He could probably get a better card (5750 maybe?) 300W isn't that bad: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/display/system-wattage_6.html#sect0 It might be beyond $50 though.
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Sep 26, 2010 07:22
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JUST THE TIP posted:Hey everyone, i have a quick question. Im in california right now but will soon be returning to Montreal in Canada for school. I need a "proxy" to post through to make it look like i'm still in california for business reasons. I have multiple computers i can leave on 24/7 here in california. Is there some software i could put on it to post on the internet through the CA machine? The only solution i can think of right now is full remote access programs but i would like something a little faster and simpler. Thanks in advance for any answers! Setup an SSH server. Doesn't even have to be a GUI (so you can just install Ubuntu Server Edition on some crap box even). Make sure it's got a good, secure password, and change the default port to something random over 30k. Then you can use putty (google it, small few hundred kb app) to proxy through it, and set your browser to connect to putty's socks proxy. I do the same thing with my Dreamhost account every now and then when I need to look like I'm in California, so if you have hosting that might work too. Edit: http://www.ideaexcursion.com/2008/12/29/socks-proxy-with-putty-and-ssh/ <- example of what the tunneling setup for putty should look like Frozen Peach fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Sep 26, 2010 |
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Sep 26, 2010 17:25
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Anyone recommend a decent ~$100 external hard drive for backups? Reliablity is key, only needs to be 140GB to back up the old laptop.
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Sep 26, 2010 22:04
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Smiling Jack posted:Anyone recommend a decent ~$100 external hard drive for backups? Reliablity is key, only needs to be 140GB to back up the old laptop. Hard drive debates are almost as bad as religious debates, with everybody having their own annecdote of "I had a Brand X that failed within 6 months so it's crap, now I only buy Brand Y and haven't had any problems in 6 years!". Western Digital and Seagate are the largest manufactuers, so I'd stick with them. Find a drive that has the features and form factor in a price you like, and buy it. WD offers 3- 5 year warranties on their drives. http://support.wdc.com/warranty/policy.asp Seagate has a similar policy, either 3 or 5 years. Since you're using it for backups, if it breaks you're just going to buy a new one anyways. TL;DR All drives break, get one that looks nice and is cheap.
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Sep 26, 2010 22:35
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Quick question: Laptop looks like this at boot. Not sure what happened. I'm guessing video card or something went bad?  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  
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Sep 27, 2010 05:14
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Got a CD in the drive?
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Sep 27, 2010 05:30
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Yeah, Memtest 86 disc that is running right now. Display is still the same, with random characters.
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Sep 27, 2010 05:54
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I'd say its a bad videocard then, unless Memtest found any errors. Try the onboard video if present, if it looks good or doesn't have onboard video, try reseating the videocard and its power cables.
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Sep 27, 2010 15:37
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Lt Moose posted:Laptop looks like this at boot. Alereon posted:I'd say its a bad videocard then, unless Memtest found any errors. Try the onboard video if present, if it looks good or doesn't have onboard video, try reseating the videocard and its power cables. Could be tricky.
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Sep 27, 2010 23:19
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No errors in memtest. Once I shut it down (after the test ran for ~18hrs), it booted up normally and the display was fine. Looks like this will be an intermittent problem. If this continues / if I get any more info I'll probably just make a post in HOTS to not clog up this thread. Thanks!
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Sep 28, 2010 07:00
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Lt Moose posted:No errors in memtest. Once I shut it down (after the test ran for ~18hrs), it booted up normally and the display was fine. Looks like this will be an intermittent problem. If this continues / if I get any more info I'll probably just make a post in HOTS to not clog up this thread. You've got one of those problems that are difficult to pinpoint and can be costly to fix (Especially when you get the wrong part). It's either your motherboard or video card (Or both at the same time if it's onboard). BUT, the problem might be coming from elsewhere, like a fan that no longer works which is causing the video card to overheat, which begs the question: Is your laptop abnormally hot?
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Sep 28, 2010 11:27
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So a family friend has some computer problems, it's a dell dimension and every few minutes it'll freeze up and it'll be a good few minutes before it starts doing things again. It's clean in regards to viruses etc, and only 20gb of the 100 or so gig hard drive is being used, there aren't many programs installed and the pc is more than capable of browsing the net and word. Running crystaldisk info, I get a "Caution" and it states that there is an uncorrectable sector error. Looking online I get some vague posts about it being put there on purpose. Perhaps by dell to hold drivers or something like that. I have no idea if this is the case though, could the hard drive be the cause of this?
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Sep 28, 2010 20:50
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Rookoo posted:So a family friend has some computer problems, it's a dell dimension and every few minutes it'll freeze up and it'll be a good few minutes before it starts doing things again. It's clean in regards to viruses etc, and only 20gb of the 100 or so gig hard drive is being used, there aren't many programs installed and the pc is more than capable of browsing the net and word. Yep. Run a had drive diagnostic (some manufacturers provide their own) and see what it says.
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Sep 28, 2010 21:51
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Rookoo posted:So a family friend has some computer problems, it's a dell dimension and every few minutes it'll freeze up and it'll be a good few minutes before it starts doing things again. It's clean in regards to viruses etc, and only 20gb of the 100 or so gig hard drive is being used, there aren't many programs installed and the pc is more than capable of browsing the net and word. The drive is almost certainly dying. At the very least, back up anything important right now; you (or your friend, or whatever) should replace it as soon as possible. You might try putting your ear against the drive while it's freezing; odds are, you'll hear some unpleasant noises. Most Dells do have a hidden partition to store a system recovery image, so you can bring the machine back to the way it left the factory. However, it won't show up as an error, and it's set aside at a level much higher than sectors. Uncorrectable sector errors in the SMART data mean that the drive is seeing evidence of mechanical failures; at this point, complete failure's not a matter of "if" so much as "when" (and the "when" is almost certainly "very soon").
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Sep 28, 2010 23:02
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I have a strange problem. I run dual monitors and for some strange reason my secondary monitor will not display video. If I move vlc to that screen the picture freezes but the audio continues, when I move it back to the primary it works again. The strange thing is if I switch which monitor is my primary though windows then the monitor that works with video switches too. I'm running windows vista with a Radeon 4600 if that makes any difference.
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Sep 29, 2010 22:33
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Tried that with any other players?
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Sep 30, 2010 01:56
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I have a GTX 260 over a year old. The last couple weeks in TF2 or Starcraft 2 it seems to hiccup (screen goes black or freezes for a couple seconds) and then becomes really laggy. I have EVGA Precision installed with the overlay and it goes from 605mhz (underclocked from the stock, 626) to 400mhz. The only way to set it back to normal is to restart windows. I've googled around and some forums said to change the Power management mode from Adaptive to Max performance in the Nvidia control panel to fix the problem. Didn't work. I have the newest nvidia drivers 258.96, but when googling people had this problem on older drivers as well. Running Windows 7 x64, fresh install 2 months ago when I got a SSD. The video card hasn't been cool, but not super hot at full load. 65-78C and the max according to evga is 105C. No problem until recently, would it be the video card or power supply is about to go?
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Sep 30, 2010 06:57
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My Logitech G5 has been acting weird. It will turn off every so often for about 5 seconds, and when it turns back on, it will be on the same "middle" sensitivity but it will be much lower than it was before it turned off. I've tried updating my USB drivers, chipset drivers, Logitech drivers, and I've tried every USB port on my computer. Is it new mouse time?  Edit: I should add that when I switch it to a new USB port, it works perfectly for a few hours then goes right back to it.
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Sep 30, 2010 16:38
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Acer AX1200-U1510A. The motherboard is AM2, but the form factor only is listed as "SFF" which really isn't a specific form factor. Nowhere I search actually names the form factor of this motherboard. is it mITX or is some proprietary poo poo that Acer has?
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Sep 30, 2010 17:35
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Gothmog1065 posted:Acer AX1200-U1510A. The motherboard is AM2, but the form factor only is listed as "SFF" which really isn't a specific form factor. This place has the board and it certainly looks like an ITX board, but it seems longer than a standard ITX board. I would say it's proprietary but an ITX board could probably replace it as long as the mounting holes match up. Are you looking for a replacement board? The place I linked has it for pretty cheap.
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Oct 1, 2010 04:26
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scuz posted:My Logitech G5 has been acting weird. Is it new mouse time? Your mouse has a 5 year warranty; more than likely Logitech will just mail you a new one if you call them. They replaced my MX400 after about a 2 minute phone call in mid-2008.
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Oct 1, 2010 06:02
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BorderPatrol posted:This place has the board and it certainly looks like an ITX board, but it seems longer than a standard ITX board. I would say it's proprietary but an ITX board could probably replace it as long as the mounting holes match up. Holy poo poo, I looked up the mITX on newegg, and they're better than $100 easily (AM2 chipset). I found that board before and it looks like I'll be going with it. Thanks!
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Oct 1, 2010 13:57
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Not sure if this is wrthy of its own thread, probably not yet Do any of the normal hardware sites(cdw/tech data/new egg, tigerdirect, etc) have a data switch finder or good searches for switch capabilities? I've been tasked with finding some switches in various small sizes(4/5, 8, 12, 16 ports) with POE and QOS features. Even searching on the manufaturer sites, they're poo poo for finding what offers those simple specs And then there's the issue that most of these smaller switches with POE are only powering 1/2 of the ports So, can anyone either direct me to a good resource for narrowing down switches, or give a recommendation on a line to look at? The primary application is VOIP phones, quantities of 4 to 10 per site, so an 8 and 12 port option would be great
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Oct 1, 2010 16:07
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Thanks to those that answered my previous question, replacing the HDD worked perfectly. Another HDD question though, I recently got a 1TB samsung spinpoint F3, and apparently it's a fair bit faster than the caviar blue. I don't really have the time to manually install all my programs, windows, etc again on this new one however. Is there a way to transfer the entirety of my HDD to this new one that involves me just leaving it to get on with it?
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Oct 2, 2010 11:34
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Rookoo posted:Thanks to those that answered my previous question, replacing the HDD worked perfectly.
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Oct 2, 2010 19:55
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Between Ninite and how fast the drive is already, it shouldn't take a long time to get Windows and all programs installed anyway
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Oct 2, 2010 20:28
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Rookoo posted:Thanks to those that answered my previous question, replacing the HDD worked perfectly. What version of Windows are you running? If you've got Win7, or Vista Professional, and another drive capable of holding everything, the easiest thing to do is just make a disk image backup. Restore it onto the new drive, expand the partition as necessary, and you're done.
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Oct 2, 2010 22:50
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Alereon posted:It is possible using a disk imaging program, the problem is that since the old drive failed and corrupted data, imaging over the contents of the drive will just copy over all of the problems that caused. You definitely want to reinstall fresh. Oh, no this is an entirely different PC. Just ordered a Spinpoint F3 to put in my pc whilst I was ordering the replacement for the other PC seeing as how it was a pretty good deal. Space Gopher posted:What version of Windows are you running? If you've got Win7, or Vista Professional, and another drive capable of holding everything, the easiest thing to do is just make a disk image backup. Restore it onto the new drive, expand the partition as necessary, and you're done. Srebrenica Surprise posted:Between Ninite and how fast the drive is already, it shouldn't take a long time to get Windows and all programs installed anyway Rookoo fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 00:09
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Ah, perfect thread for my little question. Today I marched forward enough into the future to finally buy a PC case that has front mounted USB and audio ports, retiring my good built like a tank Antec case. This new case has two fan mounts that will take either an 80, 90 or 120mm fan. Cooler Master was nice enough to provide one 120mm fan for the back mount already. I put in a 120mm fan at the front mount as well. Both 120mm fans can run off the 3 pin system fan plug on the motherboard, while the fan in the front also has a Molex plug to allow it to run off of 12 volts directly from the PSU. The problem is I only have one system fan plug on my motherboard. The solution would seem to be to plug the front fan into the PSU, but that makes the fan spin way too loudly. I tried repinning the fan to run off the 5 volt line, but it barely spins. I'm thinking of getting a splitter cable so I can run both fans off the system fan plug on my motherboard. I believe this will screw up the RPM reading. What I'm wondering is whether or not this will also screw up the fan speed? Do motherboards base fan speed on the RPM data obtained from the fan? Or do they just use system temperature to determine fan speed?
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Oct 3, 2010 00:31
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Do you have another header you can plug it into? Motherboards usually have three or more. If it does work, the fan speed should stay the same, as the motherboard is either varying voltage or using PWM to reduce the power supplied to the fan, usually not to a target rpm but rather to preset power targets. The problem is you double the current being pushed through that header, which could overload it.
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Oct 3, 2010 00:36
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Alereon posted:Do you have another header you can plug it into? Motherboards usually have three or more. If it does work, the fan speed should stay the same, as the motherboard is either varying voltage or using PWM to reduce the power supplied to the fan, usually not to a target rpm but rather to preset power targets. The problem is you double the current being pushed through that header, which could overload it. Nope. Gigabyte GA-M61PME-S2P motherboard. Far as I know I have one CPU fan and one system fan plug.
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Oct 3, 2010 00:40
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Landerig posted:Nope. Gigabyte GA-M61PME-S2P motherboard. Far as I know I have one CPU fan and one system fan plug.
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Oct 3, 2010 02:03
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I'm currently going crazy putting keystone jacks all over, and I have this idea I should just keystone my entire tower, and move it downstairs. Is there any sane way to wire a physical power button about 10-15ft? Anybody done this before? I'm thinking I just need 2xHDMI keystone jacks, 2xUSB Keystone jacks, an RCA type keystone jack (for audio through coaxial port), and some way to wire a physical power button. Once monoprice restocks the HDMI jacks it'll cost me about $18 to do this, and then I'll never have to worry about noise again!
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Oct 3, 2010 05:06
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Triikan posted:I'm currently going crazy putting keystone jacks all over, and I have this idea I should just keystone my entire tower, and move it downstairs. Is there any sane way to wire a physical power button about 10-15ft? Any low voltage alarm wire pair will work fine for that, power switches dont carry any current its just a signal wire to the motherboard which tells it to turn the PSU on.
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Oct 3, 2010 05:16
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Sniep posted:Any low voltage alarm wire pair will work fine for that, power switches dont carry any current its just a signal wire to the motherboard which tells it to turn the PSU on. How about some leftover Cat5? Where can I find a decent power switch that looks good on its own? Maybe with a built in power LED? I've seen something exactly like I want on a mineral oil pc posted on this forum, but I can't find it (too many people have done mineral oil pcs apparently) edit: found it. I think its a goon, I'll try to contact him and see where he got them: http://www.parnassus.dk/Computers/New-computer/10327971_5A22X#725901643_j2iTc Triikan fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 05:27
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I've seen lots of motherboards come out with EFI support, but this has mostly been prettying up the BIOS. Is there any implementation that delivers on the supposed lowered boot times?
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Oct 3, 2010 11:50
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Triikan posted:How about some leftover Cat5? That's just modern alarm wire as far as I'm concerned. It's perfectly suitable signal cable. On the button itself no idea though.
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Oct 3, 2010 12:36
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