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Veeb0rg posted:Most likely the sending unit that's installed is for the "idiot light" cluster as thats exactly what my oil gauge did when the wrong sender was installed. They look the same so its a very easy mistake. Interesting. I wouldn't have even thought of that myself. I'll check into the sender.
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Sep 24, 2010 08:47
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Just for clarification, the dealer is saying it's a bent shift fork. Being replaced, have to wait until Monday now.
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Sep 24, 2010 19:18
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Tsu posted:Also, I'm getting a puddle in the passenger floor area. I searched thoroughly and determined it's either a drain or the windshield. However, if it's the windshield, it has to be running behind the interior trim because it seems dry as hell everywhere else in the cabin around the windshield. The AC drains often get clogged. You can blow it out with a decent air compressor and a length of tubing.
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Sep 24, 2010 19:29
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I can't possibly be the only one that sees this whenever I look at a classic XJ.  Any way, went for a little joyride today (Olympic foothills, WA) and it turned into some minor wheeling. This is how I used to get myself into trouble, going off unknown trails by myself, but I've gotten a bit better about it. I did have to reverse probably about 200 yards down a really narrow trail up a hillside once it became completely closed in. Thank god for engine braking, if I couldn't just ride it out in reverse all the way down that would be a nightmare.    Zip-tied my camera to the roll bar, what the hell. Makes the trail look super flat. You can tell by my face in the mirror that it actually wasn't. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jsyt6kOv28g Now that hardtop season is coming around, I really need to add some extra interior lights. I carpeted my hardtop last year and painted the rest of it black, so the light doesn't have any thing to reflect off of any more. Thinking about mounting a junkyard dome light on the windshield plastic fascia and wiring it to the lightbar circuit. I regret not getting around to installing a sunroof in my hardtop this summer. I've only ever owned two vehicles without sunroofs, it feels so closed-in without that extra light, especially when it gets dark as gently caress here in Seattle in the winter.
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Sep 26, 2010 06:06
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Just finished installing a winch kit, bumper and skid plate kit on a JK Rubicon. Pretty cool but the instructions were poo poo, the fastener quality was poo poo, there was a few missing screws/bolts, and the kit's synthetic fairlead plate and included bolts interfered with the the included winch. I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get shorter M10 bolts to make it work. Smittybilt? More like Shittybilt... I thought I had the job done and started to clean up everything only to hear "Hey what's this cable for..." "..." "Oh .. it's the battery ground cable.... I told you it doesn't just ground to chassis"  gently caress and I didn't even drink any beers during installation. I'm telling my friends to stick with Warn or ARB or some poo poo from here on out. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Sep 26, 2010 |
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Sep 26, 2010 07:38
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Aside from those bits, did the winch look decent otherwise? Even Quadratec sells those Smittybilt winches cheap, they've been pretty tempting.
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Sep 26, 2010 08:45
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It looked fine, we wont' have a chance to test it out under load for a week or two yet. We'll go wheeling and see how it holds up. Honestly for the cost, even if it works only few times, for the most part a winch isn't used that often while. As long as it works when it's really needed 
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Sep 26, 2010 15:59
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I feel I must post this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXoZRe9cuZA Detroit Diesel 2 stroke Powered CJ 3 Cylinders might I add Towing a broken 3/4 ton truck out of a trail
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Sep 26, 2010 19:30
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I don't really care for full-width axle builds like that, but that's pretty cool otherwise. Though I'd get really sick of running that thing without some serious hearing protection and well-designed motor mounts. I don't think that Detroit makes any more power than the Jeep six would, so I'm not sure why he chose that swap. I guess he must have had one just laying around. Some of the older ships I work on have emergency deck generators coupled to a 2-stroke Detroit V12 diesel, supercharged and turbocharged. If you don't know about these things they can't run without some sort of forced induction, so with a supercharger it's considered to be naturally aspirated. The entire ship's house shakes when that thing spools up, and the cold-start exhaust can't be beat. Jeep is still retarded for never offering the 2.8 CRD in the Wrangler, or maybe even the Cummins 4BT, since it fits perfectly into the Wrangler and Chrysler is already in bed with Cummins.. incredibull fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Sep 26, 2010 |
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Sep 26, 2010 19:48
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Just got an '01 TJ.  Tires are bald, getting replaced. Also the soft top needs to go; I'm thinking about a tan replacement. Second thing on my agenda is a 2" lift. I'm specifically looking at this one http://www.quadratec.com/products/16117_109.htm I'm betwixt as to what kind of lift I want. I'm 17 and have a $9/hr job so I'm looking for a more economical approach. Also I'm looking for a CB antenna that flexes over and connects to the hood(the Jurassic Park build had one). Finally, I'm looking for one of those winch grills that looks like the prow to a boat. I want to remove the fender flares but I don't know what to do with the turn signals that are in the front ones. Edit: What is the name of the circle cover in the center of the rims? They're missing on the right side Shubs fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 00:06
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Shubs posted:Just got an '01 TJ. Nice Jeep! I would keep things simple and see how far the car gets you as is or with a small lift. A spring spacer budget boost like that seems like the best choice. Adding a bumper, winch, replacing the fenders, etc. can get expensive fast--I wouldn't worry about them yet. I'm guessing an antenna big enough to bend over the car is an old 108" metal whip antenna. If you're running through small wooded trails it's going to be a huge pain as it bangs off everything. I'd look for a smaller 4 foot or so antenna. For the wheels you're looking for the 'center caps'--check craigslist and you'll probably see some for cheap.
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Sep 27, 2010 00:41
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You could probably piece together your own 2" lift for a bit cheaper than that; kits always run more expensive than the individual components. The covers are called center caps. I've seen guys spray paint the little Country Crock butter containers and put them on there.
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Sep 27, 2010 00:44
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I have a quick question for you guys. My jeep has a 3.5" lift on it already, and I have purchased 2" spacers/shackles so I can make it a bit higher. I know there are a few things I need to do get before I lift it any higher, but what would I nee to get to do it the right way? I know I need an SYE, and so far I have gotten all new shocks, and a rustys steering box brace, what else do I need?
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Sep 27, 2010 01:12
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Bojanglesworth posted:I have a quick question for you guys. My jeep has a 3.5" lift on it already, and I have purchased 2" spacers/shackles so I can make it a bit higher. I know there are a few things I need to do get before I lift it any higher, but what would I nee to get to do it the right way? I'm guessing YJ from the mention of shackles. If you don't have a drop pitman arm for your steering box, you'll need one.
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Sep 27, 2010 03:48
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EightBit posted:I'm guessing YJ from the mention of shackles. If you don't have a drop pitman arm for your steering box, you'll need one. Sorry forgot to mention, its an XJ. Drop pitman arm, added to list. That is in addition to the brace correct?
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Sep 27, 2010 04:49
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I think he has an XJ, but a drop pitman arm is still needed otherwise the steering geometry will be all hosed. A steering brace isn't really required unless you're running over 31's or so, but it is awfully thin sheet metal in there so it's a smart upgrade.
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Sep 27, 2010 04:50
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Philip J Fry posted:I think he has an XJ, but a drop pitman arm is still needed otherwise the steering geometry will be all hosed. A steering brace isn't really required unless you're running over 31's or so, but it is awfully thin sheet metal in there so it's a smart upgrade. Wow, I did a really lovely job of explaining what I had, sorry about that. Its a 99 XJ, on 31's with a 3.5" lift. I have no upgraded steering components at all. I bought the lift and the recommended shocks for a 5.5" lift and have been slowly trying to get what I need to "do it right" (much to the dismay of all of my Jeep driving friends who want me to put the lift on now) so I don't end up breaking anything. It seems every person I ask on the jeep forums has a different answer on what is needed to do it the right way. Some people say an SYE is an absolute requirement, others say get a transfer case drop, and so on and so on. I know there is a lot of personal preference going on when it comes to modifying, but I know there are certain things that I really NEED to have to avoid poo poo breaking, my jeep being un-drivable etc. For reference: 
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Sep 27, 2010 05:04
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The problem with most Jeep forum guys is that they will try to do everything at a bare minimum of cost, looking for the cheapest this or that. I prefer doing it right the first time and saving up for bombproof stuff, no matter how long it takes. Most mfg's suggest a SYE for 4.5" and above. You can go the cheap route and get a hack-n-tap kit for $100 or do it right with a fixed yoke and custom CV shaft for $500~$600. You'd probably be fine with the HnT initially, but a full SYE is great peace of mind to have down the line and more harmonically sound. Don't bother with a t-case drop, you're just giving back ground clearance. I got a steering box brace plate from C-Rok for $45. It'll pair up with any aftermarket bumper for a stout foundation. You can probably find a used drop pitman arm on craigslist, guys are always upgrading their poo poo. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 05:34
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Philip J Fry posted:The problem with most Jeep forum guys is that they will try to do everything at a bare minimum of cost, looking for the cheapest this or that. I prefer doing it right the first time and saving up for bombproof stuff, no matter how long it takes. Im with you, I want to just have everything done correctly. I am trying to avoid being stuck somewhere in the middle of the woods with a broken whatever that could have been avoided by spending $100, instead of spending hundreds getting towed back from wherever my poo poo breaks, and THEN having to spend the money to fix it, and do it right. That being said, I do want to go the second route with the sye. That is what a fixed yoke is in reference too, right? This is my first Jeep, so to top it all off I feel like a total idiot when I am asking these questions. I have been hoping to find someone selling something used for a bit less but I honestly don't even know what I am looking for. A couple dudes said I need to get new lower control arms too, is that something that is required or is that a personal preference type of thing? Im not even sure if lifting it another two inches will look good with 31's. Thoughts?
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Sep 27, 2010 05:46
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The problem with a slip yoke is that it can fall out or you can blow up a u-joint or the yoke (if you're lucky enough to not shatter the tail housing or crack the case). Then you have to pull the shaft and are left with a hole in the t-case for the fluid to leak out. The SYE replaces the slip yoke with a fixed shaft inside the case that mates up externally with a CV joint and shaft. Some pics from my old YJ with 4.5" RE XD lift and an Advance Adapters SYE/Tom Woods shaft: Before:  After:  I'm not sure about the control arm 'requirement' (still learning all this coil/arm stuff after having used leaf springs forever) but all I can see is that it might limit articulation a bit since the travel radius is still stock. Essentially you are limiting their lower range of travel when you start articulating because some of it is already being used with the increased lift; they're already somewhat 'drooped'. I'm no good at this budget stuff though. I'm planning on a 7" TnT y-link lift with hi-steer and 36's. Overkill all the way! Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 06:11
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Philip J Fry posted:The problem with a slip yoke is that it can fall out or you can blow up a u-joint or the yoke. Then you have to pull the shaft and are left with a hole in the t-case for the fluid to leak out. The SYE replaces the slip yoke with a fixed shaft inside the case that mates up externally with a CV joint and shaft. Some pics from my old YJ with an Advance Adapters SYE/Tom Woods shaft: Oh I see now. So I would need to order this: http://advanceadapters.com/product/2464/50-7906.html and then a driveshaft. I went to the Tom Wood site and it is super confusing (being a noob.) Do I need to measure my current driveshaft or what? I really dont get it, and now I feel retarded for real.
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Sep 27, 2010 06:19
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It depends on your t-case; there's the NP231 and the NP242. The 231 doesn't have a 4H full-time, the 242 does. AA and Tom Woods run the same deals with eachother's stuff, but I don't see the 242 output on AA's site. http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE_detail.html Once your lift is done, measure from where the diagram indicates with your current shaft in place. This will give them the custom length to make your new shaft since every Jeep is going to be a little different from t-case housing to axle yoke. Just give them a call and explain your setup, they're super helpful. Don't worry about the super short kits, just the base kit should be more than sufficient. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 06:28
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Philip J Fry posted:Then you have to pull the shaft and are left with a hole in the t-case for the fluid to leak out. Can you get a kit to plug that? I got a "limp home" kit which is a bunch of spindle/shaft plugs so if you mangle something on the driveline, you can remove it, plug it , lock the t-case/locker and drive home or off the trail in 3wd/2wd or 1wd 
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Sep 27, 2010 07:32
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Probably. I used a 32 oz. Gatorade cap, a sandwich bag and some duct tape.
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Sep 27, 2010 08:16
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Bojanglesworth posted:Oh I see now. So I would need to order this: The great thing about the XJ is that once you have that kit installed, you can get a front drive shaft from a junkyard XJ and run that as your rear drive shaft. It is the correct length and joints. Once you get the 4.5 lift in, if you find you need a longer one, the front shaft from a V8 ZJ *grand cherokee* is the same but about an inch or so longer.
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Sep 27, 2010 10:32
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Speaking of vibrations, I just had new 2.5" lift springs & stock shackles put on my '99 XJ to replace the sagging stock springs and 2" shackle lift. To prevent vibrations the shop put on a 6 degree shim for the axle too. I've noticed at 55-60mph there's a very slight vibration though, just enough to feel in my feet and hear (sounds like loud tires). Are there any cheap and easy ways to reduce vibrations? I don't think I'm ready to go for a full SYE--would lowering the transfer case ~1/2" be an option? edit: Thinking about it more and reading http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html I think I'm going to replace the driveshaft u joints first. The car has 150k miles and as far as I know the stock joints--I bet upping the lift and shimming to a slightly higher angle is putting more stress on old joints. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Sep 27, 2010 20:56
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mod sassinator posted:Speaking of vibrations, I just had new 2.5" lift springs & stock shackles put on my '99 XJ to replace the sagging stock springs and 2" shackle lift. To prevent vibrations the shop put on a 6 degree shim for the axle too. I've noticed at 55-60mph there's a very slight vibration though, just enough to feel in my feet and hear (sounds like loud tires). Are there any cheap and easy ways to reduce vibrations? I don't think I'm ready to go for a full SYE--would lowering the transfer case ~1/2" be an option? You install shims on a spring perch to do one of two things. If you have a driveshaft without a CV joint on it (just a simple upper and lower u-joint), then theoretically the output of your t-case and the pinion of your rear axle should be parallel to each other (though offset vertically obviously). For instance, if the output of your t-case was perfectly horizontal, your rear pinion should also be perfectly horizontal, not tilted up at the t-case. This way both u-joints assume the same operating angle and don't vibrate at speed. A shackle lift can throw off the axle's pinion angle, making it no longer parallel with the t-case output, so degree shims may help correct that situation. Also consider that on a leaf-spring rear axle, the pinion will tend to twist upwards a few degrees when power is applied moving forward, so your static angle is different than the normal operating angle at speed. On the other hand, if you have a cv joint on your rear driveshaft at the t-case end, then ideally your rear pinion should point up at the t-case output so that there is no angle on the driveshaft u-joint at the pinion. The CV joint should take care of all of the operating angle, and run smoothly. In this case, you'd again use degree shims to point the axle pinion up, but it's a different value than when you lack a CV joint (as described above). It's possible that the 6 degree shim was too aggressive, or it may not be enough, depending on all the other variables in your suspension/driveline. A slightly different shim might cure your problems, or you might just have to learn to live with a little vibration at certain speeds.
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Sep 28, 2010 00:19
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My ZX2s transmission poo poo the bed. I found an 89 Comanche with the 4.0 and a 5 speed 2wd with 140k on the clock for $1600. Is the 4.0 in the comanche as 'invincible' as the ones in the cherokee? I honestly just want a reliable beater to get me to/from work. Before you scream corolla, I'd like to put motorcycles in the back.
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Sep 28, 2010 03:31
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blugu64 posted:My ZX2s transmission poo poo the bed. I found an 89 Comanche with the 4.0 and a 5 speed 2wd with 140k on the clock for $1600. Is the 4.0 in the comanche as 'invincible' as the ones in the cherokee? I honestly just want a reliable beater to get me to/from work. Before you scream corolla, I'd like to put motorcycles in the back. 89 means its post AMC but pre Chrysler. They are about bullet proof as ever, the worse you have to expect is faulty injectors or bad maintenance
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Sep 28, 2010 03:33
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Veeb0rg posted:The great thing about the XJ is that once you have that kit installed, you can get a front drive shaft from a junkyard XJ and run that as your rear drive shaft. It is the correct length and joints. Once you get the 4.5 lift in, if you find you need a longer one, the front shaft from a V8 ZJ *grand cherokee* is the same but about an inch or so longer. So wait, i'm confused. Once I get the SYE installed (at my current 3.5" lift) I can use a stock front driveshaft, but in order to instal the other 2" lift I will have to get an aftermarket driveshaft? How do I know what length to get?
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Sep 28, 2010 03:53
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Bojanglesworth posted:So wait, i'm confused. Once I get the SYE installed (at my current 3.5" lift) I can use a stock front driveshaft, but in order to instal the other 2" lift I will have to get an aftermarket driveshaft? How do I know what length to get? nope, You should be able to use the stock front drive shaft with the extra 2 inches of lift. If it does prove to be to short, you can use a Grand Cherokee front drive shaft as its an inch or so longer then the XJ shaft.
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Sep 28, 2010 04:31
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blugu64 posted:My ZX2s transmission poo poo the bed. I found an 89 Comanche with the 4.0 and a 5 speed 2wd with 140k on the clock for $1600. Is the 4.0 in the comanche as 'invincible' as the ones in the cherokee? I honestly just want a reliable beater to get me to/from work. Before you scream corolla, I'd like to put motorcycles in the back. Corolla with a trailer?
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Sep 28, 2010 14:03
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Hi jeeps! Sorry to intrude but this has appeared on my street and I'm thinking about grabbing it:   I don't really know anything about cars. I'll be checking for rust and transmission fluid and stuff but is there anything Jeep-specific I should look out for here?
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Sep 29, 2010 21:27
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My Jeep decided to spew gasoline everywhere. Turns out mechanical fuel pumps aren't bullet proof, if the diphram goes it just shoots gas on the block and header. The friend who had it seems to not have been competent at anything mechanical, since simply starting it would produce constant drip. She really looks silly with the top on, either needs bigger tires or less lift.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Sep 30, 2010 00:56
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Less lift is never the answer...
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Sep 30, 2010 06:56
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Unless the question is "What does my vehicle that never leaves perfectly paved roads need? Oh, also I want more high speed stability."
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Sep 30, 2010 08:30
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LCOG is where its at. 40" Goodyear Kevlar MTR's on 2.5" Suspension Lift
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Sep 30, 2010 11:10
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god just build a buggy
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Sep 30, 2010 14:09
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gently caress. The Cherokee I was going to buy had a bent shift fork or whatever, and wouldn't go out of 4WD. Dealer said it was fixed. First thing I do is test out the 4WD and it won't go back to 2WD! Why say you fixed it if it wasn't? Maybe they were hoping I would forget to test it out?
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Sep 30, 2010 14:23
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incredibull posted:god just build a buggy You obviously don't understand Jeep things. 
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Sep 30, 2010 15:10
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