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Didn't see this posted before, but anyone having AC troubles where the compressor clutch not engaging unless prodded with a stick due to wear, look at this: http://www.lomaxelectrical.co.uk/Volvo/volvo_ac_pump_shim.htm The gap becomes too large and so under heat, the magnetic pull decreases and prevents engagement. It's possible to remove the plate by unbolting the compressor but without disconnecting any of the coolant pipes although it is a bit fiddly. I've done this procedure twice with my dad, firstly on my old 850 and secondly on my current V70 TDI. The gap was about 1mm on both and removing the .6mm shim fixed it nicely on both (there was a .3mm shim in there as well). Air con was nice and consistent afterwards in both cases. Now on to my recent problem. My aforementioned V70 TDI has just come down with a transmission problem (automatic). A few days ago, the transmission arrow indicator started flashing and the car became less responsive. I pulled in at the side of the road and found it difficult pulling out again, as if something wasn't gripping properly. Eventually I was able to pull away with a load of slip. I managed to limp the car back to my brothers where I couldn't pull up onto his driveway due to the incline so I shut the car off to cool down for a bit before eventually restarting and eventually driving it in. I checked the fluid, it was at the right level, a light red colour and didn't smell of anything unusual. Running a diagnostic unit on it came up with the codes P0733 and P0734 which are something like 'slipping in gear 3' and 'slipping in gear 4' respectively. I'm hoping this is something electrical/ECU or a faulty solenoid and that I don't have to replace the entire box. Any suggestions before I get it taken in for repair?
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Sep 17, 2010 21:10
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  New rims, $50 total woo! 3 of 4 of my current ones (same model) are bent beyond all hope. Now my spare doesn't have to be on a steelie either. The new ones are pretty scuffed around the edge, and one has a good gouge, but none of it looks like it'll affect the bead and they all rolled straight.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:27
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Splizwarf posted:Wait, the 850 doesn't have one? I honestly figured all Volvos from that era did. My 740s do. Do it; while you're in there, put an inline filter, a flow+pressure meter and a thermostat on the return line. I know that when I bought a new radiator for it, the thing had transmission cooler lines, which I had to buy extra clamps or whatever for to pinch off. For the life of me I can't find specifics on the turbo/non-turbo transmission cooling. But basically I wanted to install an aftermarket transmission cooler, the same kind usually used for towing, with the justification that I drive it harder then most people do.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:30
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Hey Volvo owners and gurus, I'm hoping to get your advise. I'm very close to deciding on whether or not I should buy this 1995 850. http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/cto/1951686984.html To sum up, for $1100: The facts: Green 332,000 km No collisions during it's life Automatic transmission Leather seats Traction control Power sun/moon roof Power windows, mirrors Radio You should know: AC is not working No Power locks I went and saw it today, after giving myself a crash course on Volvo 850 ownership via this thread, among other Volvo owners sites. This is what I learned and checked for during my test drive: - The odometer says 232,000km. - Tires new as of this May. They have loads of tread on them. - Brakes were all done about 1 year ago. They worked well and did not squeal at all. - No clicking from engine - During tight turns, no clicking from cv joints - or anything else. - oil has been changed regularly - He was unaware of the pcv valve. After the engine warmed up, I pulled the dip stick, and there was steam coming out of the spout. - By power locks not working, he actually means the remote door opener doesn't. - I don't care that the a/c doesn't work. - The exhaust was slightly louder than I expected. It may have a small hole in it. Otherwise, the car ran nice. Started easily, no hesitation with the engine and the transmission shifted smoothly. It handled well, and floated over the road. He said that the timing belt was replaced by the previous owner just before he bought it 2 years ago. The engine itself looked very clean, although there was a sizable oil patch around the oil filler cap. There no puddles under the car. There was near as makes no difference no rust on the car. A few scuff marks here and there, but nothing that removed paint and exposed metal. There appeared to be a seal or guard missing along the top of the windshield. He said that the car did not leak in the rain. He also said he wanted to change the sale conditions a bit. He wants to get rid of the car, but he doesn't want to certify it any more. He claimed his mechanic wanted about $400 in repairs to safety it. He is willing to lower the price to deal with the safety, and he insists on it visiting my mechanic before he sells it to me. So far, I'm really liking the car. It drove nice, the only extra sound was the exhaust, which was only noticeable with the windows down. It went through stop and go traffic comfortably and got up to highway speeds easily. I'm aware that repairs to this brand and model can be a little bit more than average, but the quality of the equipment is more than worth the price. I figure first thing to be done is take care of the pcv valve issue before it causes more damage. I don't care about the lack of a/c, I usually take side roads with the windows down anyway. Should I run to or away from this car? Anything I should be aware of? For many repairs and most maintenance, I'm not averse to learning how and doing them myself. Replacing a transmission, I'd have to pay for. Thank you in advance 
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Sep 18, 2010 20:33
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I would buy it right now. For the Americans in the thread, that's 206,300 miles for $1,065 USD. I think that if it doesn't need any major engine or transmission work it's a pretty good deal. For that price in my area, the tires will be bad and the paint will be hosed, or there will be a serious mechanical or electrical problem that makes the car a deathtrap or undriveable/smoggable/inspectable. Not that I check Craigslist for Volvos under $2000 within 200 miles of me every night or anything. I think my opinion is probably still an amateur's, though; see what the more experienced guys have to say.
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Sep 18, 2010 20:46
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Depending on what 'safety' work it needs, it looks like a pretty decent deal if you want a 95 850. The fact that he's willing to drop the price to sell it makes me a bit concerned as to why he wants it sold so badly.. Depending on how fixed you want your car, there can be lots of small repairs that can cost. For example on my V70R right now the trunk latch isn't seating properly and the warning light is going off.. I've tried reseating the trunk latch and at least it closes and locks now but the light still isn't going off because there is a tiny amount of play. So little things like that can add up to repairs if it start bothering you. As for that AC, it could be multiple things, compressor, belts, refridgerant, etc..so if you ever do plan to get it fixed it could be expensive.
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Sep 19, 2010 17:13
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Oxphocker posted:Depending on what 'safety' work it needs, it looks like a pretty decent deal if you want a 95 850. I'm going to call my mechanic tomorrow and schedule an appointment for a safety inspection to see what it needs to pass, then go from there. I don't have any money invested in the car as of yet. If I can get it on the road for $1100 - including purchase price - I think I'll have done quite well.
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Sep 20, 2010 01:31
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So today my friend and I mapped out and tagged the entire engine harness with a multimeter on the LH2.4 harness. Is there anything I should watch out for or should do for the harness itself before I put it in the car?
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Sep 20, 2010 09:40
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drat, ABS/TRAC lights came on today (and now won't go off), when the Trac button accidentally got hit. I'm poo poo at soldering, anyone get a module from 'Matty Moo' on Volvospeed? edit: Nevermind that, at least for now. Pulling the fuse (which wasn't blown) and putting it back in cleared it somehow. zenless fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Sep 21, 2010 |
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Sep 21, 2010 00:27
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Does anyone know of a repair kit for a v70 retractable load cover? I swear I found one a while ago but can't find it again now I need it. Also, what does TRACS do? If I press the button once, nothing happens, press a second time the drifting symbol comes on.
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Sep 21, 2010 21:59
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Cakefool posted:Does anyone know of a repair kit for a v70 retractable load cover? I swear I found one a while ago but can't find it again now I need it. TRACS is traction control...automatic braking to stop wheel slip.
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Sep 22, 2010 01:38
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It's time for new rear shocks on my 244. The internet seems to be in agreement that Blistein are the way to go but price is a bit steep and honestly its just not that kind of car. I am thinking that any new shock will be a huge upgrade over the 21 year old ones that I have. Will I rue the day that I tried to save a little cash by putting Monroes on? Is there a big difference between oil and gas? As I mentioned in my intro post, I am learning wrenching as I go so any useful tips on doing this job myself are appreciated.
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Sep 22, 2010 06:16
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ch1mp posted:It's time for new rear shocks on my 244. The internet seems to be in agreement that Blistein are the way to go but price is a bit steep and honestly its just not that kind of car. I am thinking that any new shock will be a huge upgrade over the 21 year old ones that I have. Will I rue the day that I tried to save a little cash by putting Monroes on? Is there a big difference between oil and gas? As I mentioned in my intro post, I am learning wrenching as I go so any useful tips on doing this job myself are appreciated. Bilstein HDs are probably overkill, but have you looked at their Touring Class shocks? They're not expensive at all.
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Sep 22, 2010 18:01
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I have Bilstein TCs installed in the rear of my station wagon, and plan to do the fronts within the next couple months. They're a great shock-they're stiffer than stock, but not so much that they compromise the ride.
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Sep 22, 2010 20:33
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I'm on a doctor's order to stay-the-gently caress-at-home due to atrocious bronchitis. I'm on four different medications right now and for a while was barely able to walk.  But this means good news for the next five days! poo poo I have done this week with my friend: 1. Completely assembled the engine! 1.5. Turbo Cam installed with every shim in exact specification! (One is tight by .01mm but derp) 2. Wiring harness completely mapped out! 3. Friend ran to San Ysidro to get the last of the parts! I'll post some videos with my phone of the work-in-progress tomorrow while we're here. Many bong rips and beer binges into the night and the fucker should start. I might postpone it until next week while I wait for my new clutch cable to come in since I don't want to be running my old frayed one. Unless, of course, replacing the clutch cable is easily doable from an installed engine. Although I don't know why it wouldn't be, since I removed it while the engine was in the car in the first place.  I'm going to eventually get a new 89+ gauge cluster and matching rear axle because there is an additional sensor in electronic speedometers that tells the engine's computers when to lean the fuel/air mixture upon deceleration. Without it, lumpy idle and possibly stalling after fast stopping may occur. If anybody's down in the SoCal area and wants to risk catching a horrifying illness to check out the project, I should be working on the car all day.
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Sep 24, 2010 11:17
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Xovaan posted:stuff Your project is awesome, I'm very impressed - keep up the good work. The clutch cable is an easy task. I found the hardest part to be fiddling with connecting pin and clip on the pedal side. I'm 6'4 so I just don't fit in that space under the pedals. Luckily the guy that was showing me how to do it is 5'-something and he could get right up under there. I also routed mine on the wrong side of the steering column so keep an eye out for that. I found an awesome Volvo mechanic. I bought a map pocket from some volvo guy on craigslist. We ended up talking a while and he turned me on to him. I like to do work myself but it's an everyday car so I don't always have either the time or know-how. Anyways, he said he'd install rear shocks for $50. He only up-charges parts at $2+cost. I brought it in to him and it turned out the noise was actually from the rear support stay bushing being completely worn. I'm having the shocks done as well - I ended up going with the KYB oe replacement shock which are still about half the price of the Blistein TC's.
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Sep 24, 2010 17:59
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ch1mp posted:Your project is awesome, I'm very impressed - keep up the good work. The clutch cable is an easy task. I found the hardest part to be fiddling with connecting pin and clip on the pedal side. I'm 6'4 so I just don't fit in that space under the pedals. Luckily the guy that was showing me how to do it is 5'-something and he could get right up under there. I also routed mine on the wrong side of the steering column so keep an eye out for that. It's always good to get a mechanic that knows what he's doing and won't charge you ridiculous amounts for his work. Also, before this project, the biggest thing I've ever done to a car was an oil change. I'm lucky my friend Zach (tbricker ZVOLV) is such an awesome friend and is willing to help me learn all of this stuff. Here's a small video of the update: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUbzVEGkIYo Ignore my lovely jokes I'm on codeine and hosed up from bronchitis. 
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Sep 25, 2010 00:11
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It's been better than a decade but I Roll again. This evening I picked up a 85 240 wagon, 220K miles, for $1300 as a wintard rig. Seems my DD won't carry 2 people and their skiis, or snowshoes, or a canoe, or do the dump or tow anything. The body is in decent shape for a 25YO car, it runs good once you get it started over the objections of the totally dead battery, and I feel that weird sense of magic again as I drive it home. What it needs more than anything else are maintenence items done. The brakes feel a bit spongy and ready for a flush and bleed, the OD wasn't working at first but signed back on on the way home, it could likely do with an oil change and a new battery , for a rig that's almost a moon car it's doing nice. 2 sets of tires, a very nice set of studded snows and summer tires. I've had a past with Volvos. I used to do my 40 miles commute in a 244 and then I drove from office to office doing service calls, it was during one of those calls that I got T-Boned by a Pathfinder. Bought it back from the insurance company after they totaled it, all the while I had been driving it, swapped the running gear and front clip into a 245 which I then used as my next DD for a few years. Rebuilt the motor (it really didn't need it) and the front end, ended up selling it and still saw it driving around the local Wasilla area for years. And then I meet this girl who owned 240 wagons in the UK where she's from, who went from no mechanical ability to redoing the head on her 240 with nothing more than a Haynes to guide her. So I've got a 240 wagon and the girl who can fix it. I think I win.
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Sep 28, 2010 08:32
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I dunno man, my girlfriend doesn't need a manual for head. She's a natural.  That's awesome though and kudos to you. My girlfriend's family won't buy Volvos because they say they're expensive from all the maintenance. Of course they have a $5000 BMW, an $8000 Rav-4, and a $7500 pickup truck. I think the combined expenses for all three Volvos in my family is as much as the Rav-4, including buying the drat things.
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Sep 28, 2010 08:58
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zenless posted:drat, ABS/TRAC lights came on today (and now won't go off), when the Trac button accidentally got hit. I'm poo poo at soldering, anyone get a module from 'Matty Moo' on Volvospeed? ABS units from the 90s are all crap but the 850 units are also preety bad and guaranteed to fail after a few years, intermittently then completely. I pulled mine and posted about it in the old thread but I wouldn't recommend even opening it. Get it rebuilt by ebay on the cheap or pay a premium for the community go-to guy Victor. Oxphocker posted:TRACS is traction control...automatic braking to stop wheel slip. Specifically it brakes on the side where it detects slipping, it's similar to the ABS braking and you can tell it's working by that faint marbles-spilling-on-wood (fine, YOU tell me what it sounds like) noise made by the motor. It's not that useful, sometimes disabling it actually helped get out of snow drifts or up slippery hills. NOTinuyasha fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 22:45
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NOTinuyasha posted:Specifically it brakes on the side where it detects slipping, it's similar to the ABS braking and you can tell it's working by that faint marbles-spilling-on-wood (fine, YOU tell me what it sounds like) noise made by the motor. It's not that useful, sometimes disabling it actually helped get out of snow drifts or up slippery hills. Oh I know...I've experienced it first hand in a 98 S70. I agree though, it's hit or miss sometimes on how effective it is. After driving a rear wheel drive car as my first car..sometimes I miss the more predictable slide pattern. FWD slides are just annoying, RWD slides can be fun and useful.
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Sep 29, 2010 00:01
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I'm looking to upgrade from my 95 850 turbo with 200k on it. Budget is $6000ish. My local shop is selling a 99 V70 GLT with 50k (! - one owner) on it. I know that the 99's have problems with the electronic throttle. Assuming that car isn't having issues, is it worth checking out and possibly purchasing? Or is the whole deal with the ETM such an issue that I should walk away and wait for a good 98 to come up? Can I expect a 99 v70 to be the awesome workhorse that my 850's been? Edit: Should have searched! Went back 6 pages and found this: quote:Check for it to have a yellow tag. You can see it right below the intake manifold when standing in front of the car (right behind the dipstick basically). Original ones are white. Other than that look for any irregularities in throttle action, like surging when accellerating or bucking when you let off the gas. If it's been replaced, it'll still go out again but you have more miles than if it's original. When it fails it'll be about $500 to have xemodex rebuild it permanently. That said, it sounds like this may be an awesome car. Not sure that I need to replace my 850 yet (will this thing last forever?). pete0r fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 29, 2010 |
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Sep 29, 2010 01:11
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Oxphocker posted:Oh I know...I've experienced it first hand in a 98 S70. I agree though, it's hit or miss sometimes on how effective it is. After driving a rear wheel drive car as my first car..sometimes I miss the more predictable slide pattern. FWD slides are just annoying, RWD slides can be fun and useful. Any kind of sliding is bad to me, my first car was a 98 7-series but it had very hardcore snow tires and sandbags in the trunk and that was my dad's doing so I don't know the pros/cons. My experience with my 850 (and presumably the S70) is that it gets stuck easily in drifts and has a lot of trouble on icy hills. In the same theme, it's good at not moving in ways you don't want it to (sliding, lockups) so it's more annoying then dangerous. That didn't stop me from using it as a skiing beater but it got stuck everywhere, I had to drive around with a bucket of dirt and shovels to get out of 1ft deep salt+slush pits in parking lots. At least it doesn't rust.
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Sep 29, 2010 01:14
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ch1mp posted:KYB oe replacement shock which are still about half the price of the Blistein TC's. the KYB's are great in the back, but you should go with the Bilstein TC's (or HD's) in front if you end up replacing them down the road, they are much better for the minor variation between prices. I don't know why the KYB's in back are good and in front not so much, but it's definitely true.
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Sep 29, 2010 02:40
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Fuuuuuuuck! Volvo's getting out of the wagon business! The XC70/v70 is done and so is the v50. Welp, that's one dream shattered. (OSDed XC70 Euro-vacation)
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Sep 29, 2010 07:50
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That's a pity-the S40/V50 is probably my favorite of the current Volvo products. 
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Sep 29, 2010 08:17
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Volvo not making a wagon is like Chrysler not making a lovely car. This cannot be. 
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Sep 29, 2010 08:56
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 I always dreamed of being able to buy a brand new wagon some day when i 'finally make it'. That's pretty sad news.
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Sep 29, 2010 13:21
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Splizwarf posted:Fuuuuuuuck! They'll be replaced with SUVs  At least they'll still be selling them in Europe, so it's not like they're going away completely... we'll just have to all move there. That's all.
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Sep 29, 2010 13:49
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CornHolio posted:At least they'll still be selling them in Europe, so it's not like they're going away completely... we'll just have to all move there. That's all. European delivery program?
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Sep 29, 2010 15:00
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pete0r posted:(will this thing last forever?). At 200k, I'd say you're probably in line for some spendy repairs in the next year or two, but probably not $6000 worth. I'm a fan of the 70 series though just for the facelift on the body and interior.
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Sep 29, 2010 16:11
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Is this a 745 SE? 
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Sep 29, 2010 16:26
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Likely, yes.
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Sep 29, 2010 16:35
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zenless posted:
This, a thousand unhappy times this. My "made it" list was new (read: unmolested) XC70, house, kids, in no particular order. I've never owned a new car. CornHolio posted:At least they'll still be selling them in Europe Wait what? Where'd I miss that ray of sunshine?
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Sep 29, 2010 19:23
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Splizwarf posted:Wait what? Where'd I miss that ray of sunshine? The article states, Geely Sucks posted:Volvo also recently announced that it will no longer sell wagons in the United States, citing a declining market for luxury wagons over the last few years. It doesn't say anything about its European offerings, and since they love their wagons, I don't see them pulling wagons from Europe. Could be wrong, though.
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Sep 29, 2010 20:54
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So what's the deal with importing a car for road use that isn't sold in the US market? Wasn't there a big thing with imported Skylines getting taken off the streets for not meeting emissions standards last year?
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Sep 30, 2010 05:38
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Hey everyone! Working on an '83 240 DL. I decided to be SUPER SMART and remove a about 6 vacuum lines to replace without taking a photo. 2 from the fuel charcoal canister, one that feeds from the passenger side of the engine bay and a few more short ones right around the intake manifold. If anyone has a stock '83 240 that they can snap a photo of or access to a diagram of sorts that would be amazing. thanks!
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Sep 30, 2010 05:42
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Bonz0 posted:Hey everyone! Kjet.org may have the diagram you need in their Greenbook .pdf collection. I wish I could help more, 740s here. v  v
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Sep 30, 2010 05:55
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Splizwarf posted:Kjet.org may have the diagram you need in their Greenbook .pdf collection. I wish I could help more, 740s here. v right on, this will definitely come in handy for the future! I found one or two diagrams but not really showing all of what i need. still holding out that someone has a photo on hand 
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Sep 30, 2010 06:20
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NOTinuyasha posted:Specifically it brakes on the side where it detects slipping, it's similar to the ABS braking and you can tell it's working by that faint marbles-spilling-on-wood (fine, YOU tell me what it sounds like) noise made by the motor. It's not that useful, sometimes disabling it actually helped get out of snow drifts or up slippery hills. Ah thanks. So, if I press it once, nothing happens. If I press it again the 'going sideways' light comes on. Is this TRACS disabled? Is the required double-press to avoid accidentally turning it off?
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Oct 1, 2010 19:02
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