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ari.gato posted:Thanks for the info! Gonna start getting ready to pain this weekend. One thing, what's surface flicking? Flicking: just my made-up term for going easy with the sandpaper. Half the purpose of primer is to help you identify surface imperfections you didn't catch in prep. You're not really sanding, you're gently hitting an area just to smooth it over. Think lighting a match. You really can't screw it up. Mine was all improv because I wasn't quite sure where I was headed with it. If it cleaned up well enough, I would have just polished it and called it a day. If you have the abilities/facilities, you might try the soda blasting option phil and sanchezz mention earlier in the thread.
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Sep 22, 2010 21:24
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Aaah. Makes sense. Many thanks! EDIT - One other question. How much paint should I be buying? I want to paint my engine, gas tank, triple tree, top of my forks, and the plastic rear fairings. I have no idea how much to buy. Thanks again. ari.gato fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Sep 23, 2010 |
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Sep 23, 2010 22:05
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ari.gato posted:Aaah. Makes sense. Many thanks! Don't know because I've never rattle-canned an entire bike and I'm not sure what quality you're looking for on the bodywork. Obviously the rest of the bike won't require the high temp stuff, but it won't hurt it if you want to make a can go further. Painting the motor will barely require any paint at all. If you're opting for PJ1 engine/case paint, I'd say pick up two, simply because you'll have to order it and you'll want to get the most out of your shipping costs. A can will keep for years, even with wild temp swings--just keep the nozzle clear. Also, you'll wind up using it to touch up areas of the bike you never thought of--calipers, rusted muffler tips, etc. For the other colors, start with one. If you run out, you know where to get more. If you come close to using a full can, get another--you'll have cheap, matching touch up paint on hand for as long as you own the bike. I guarantee if you go back six months from now all the formulas will be "new and improved" and won't look the same. PRO TIP: get yourself a roll of tinfoil to use as masking material to wrap around pipes, carbs, wires, chrome covers, anything you don't want hit with overspray. Conforms and sticks to any oddball surface, it's reusable, easily removed, etc. Enjoy!
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Sep 24, 2010 01:43
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Managed to strip not one but TWO allen head bolts messing with a new rear luggage rack for the KLR. Not sure how I pulled that off, but I also bent one of the drat bolts trying to finish backing it out with some vicegrips, and ended up drilling the head off and removing it by the threads. I have no idea what I did to the bolt hole to cause it to be so drat hard to remove (didn't even loctite it in true KLR fashion). The top 3 threads or so are hosed, so I'm debating on retapping it a size up or doing without. Gonna make a hardware store run tomorrow to get bolts that arent made of cheese. Also I need to figure out what to do about my old 12V jack that was bolted to the bottom of the old rack.
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Sep 25, 2010 03:05
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Proving that once you get one thing fixed another problem with crop up seems to be my speciality. Feeling right and good for figuring out and fixing my overheating problem I was on my way to work today when the left tailpipe decided it would jettison itself onto the freeway. I had the distinct honor of watching the truck behind me crush it to pieces. So now comes the fun part of finding an exhaust for an 83 vt750 that's not expensive. Atleast the bike sounds really cool right now!
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Sep 28, 2010 18:44
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threeskin posted:Proving that once you get one thing fixed another problem with crop up seems to be my speciality. Is that the one where the left pipe wraps under the swingarm and comes back over to the right? WHAT WERE THEY THINKING... If money's an issue and you don't mind hacking, Sportster mufflers are a dime a dozen and they turn up on all sorts of UJMs. Typically $50 for a pristine set.
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Sep 28, 2010 19:01
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Marv Hushman posted:Is that the one where the left pipe wraps under the swingarm and comes back over to the right? WHAT WERE THEY THINKING... I have a set of stock Sportster mufflers that I would be willing to give you if you think they'll work.
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Sep 28, 2010 19:10
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threeskin posted:Feeling right and good for figuring out and fixing my overheating problem I was on my way to work today when the left tailpipe decided it would jettison itself onto the freeway. I had the distinct honor of watching the truck behind me crush it to pieces. Same poo poo happened to me on the highway with my Maxim, except it somehow did both at the same time. Wasn't able to recover them.
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Sep 28, 2010 19:16
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Thanks Scrapez that's a super nice offer. What year is it? I'm checking with people on a shadow forum to see what would work. Marv, these aren't stock, they're aftermarket that the PO installed, apparently not greatly. But yea, the stock ones go behind the swingarm, which actually looks cool
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Sep 28, 2010 19:30
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threeskin posted:Thanks Scrapez that's a super nice offer. What year is it? I'm checking with people on a shadow forum to see what would work. These came off a 2000 so they'd be the style that fits the 86-03 Sportster.
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Sep 28, 2010 19:35
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I started noticing smoke from the lower part of the engine and saw some oil on the inside bottom of the fairing. Took a peak through the front of the fairing and it looks like I'm horrible at tightening oils filters (I hope). At least from the quick look I took at it before rushing to work. Going to pull the lower plastic off this weekend to confirm....... Bike is a 2001 Katana. So I guess this is what I will be DOING to me bike....
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Sep 30, 2010 13:30
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I replaced the spark plug caps and magic happened! After stalling twice in the rain and having constant problems with the no.3 cylinder I checked the spark plug caps. I found horror upon horror. Pretty much all rubber boots were rotten and cracked.  Click here for the full 1575x1050 image. And lo and behold, the number three cylinder which has been fouling up the plugs and not running quite well displayed this atrocity of a plug cap:  Click here for the full 700x1050 image. Four new caps later and the bike runs much better. It seems to have more power, some of the weird engine noise is gone and even when I sprayed lots of water over the plugs the engine kept on truckin'. Although it is a Suzuki, this was a Triumph.
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Oct 1, 2010 18:03
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I ordered a later 4 pot Brembo caliper to replace the horrible 2 pot on my R100. All it needs is a little milling (which I have a machine for) and it'll be a drop in fit. No more horribly lovely brakes and scary death corners.  I also took my F650 for hopefully it's last ride, put a for sale sign on it and showed it to the first prospective buyer. also a
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Oct 2, 2010 07:31
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Put a headlight on my Ducati. Instead of going with a simple classy 5 inch bucket I went with what I had laying around Sorry for poor image quality, my dslr is being borrowed. But yes, its orange.
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Oct 2, 2010 21:49
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Put a headlight on my Ducati. Instead of going with a simple classy 5 inch bucket I went with what I had laying around Life doesn't get much better than having a ducati/KTM hybrid in your garage.
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Oct 3, 2010 03:34
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Z3n posted:Life doesn't get much better than having a ducati/KTM hybrid in your garage. This is all kinds of inspiring to me...
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Oct 3, 2010 03:39
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Spiffness posted:This is all kinds of inspiring to me... If you managed to swap the duc engine into the KTM frame you would be a god among men. Of course, then you'd have the least inspiring streetfighter ever, but...yaknow. Sacrifice.
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Oct 3, 2010 03:52
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There's a lot to be said for steel braided brake lines and fresh DOT4 A whole lot.
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Oct 7, 2010 05:28
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Gave the Strom its first plug change. The front center plug is kind of a grind but it ain't the worst thing in the world. Also I found out that even if a bolt runs through a rubber mounting, it in fact cannot be tightened an arbitrary number of turns! Go figure, eh. (Fortunately I didn't strip anything, it broke off with enough shaft sticking out that I could throw a vicegrips on it and turn it out by hand. Dodged a bullet.)
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Oct 7, 2010 06:26
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Spent more money on the stupid thing. This time gettting the rear tyre repaired after it copped a loving massive self-tapping screw. Fortunately it hit square-on so it was able to be patched, I really didn't feel like spending $400 to replace <3000km old tyre.
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Oct 8, 2010 08:40
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Spiffness posted:This is all kinds of inspiring to me... Just don't swap the open clutch cover onto the KTM anywhere near my tires.
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Oct 8, 2010 14:53
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Zool posted:Just don't swap the open clutch cover onto the KTM anywhere near my tires. You're tires are always flat anyway
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Oct 8, 2010 17:31
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I sold my F650 today!! Now I'm gonna start building my R100GS into the bike it has always wanted to be.
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Oct 10, 2010 02:27
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After selling my F650 I decided my old bike needs better brakes. I took a four piston Brembo caliper from a modern BMW GS, flipped it around and modified it to fit my forks. Pretty nifty huh? (yes I know my milling head wasn't completely square, but it works fine for my purposes) The old lovely caliper for comparison: 
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Oct 10, 2010 03:55
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Today I 12 oclocked a KTM 65 SX during a 3rd gear power wheelie. It was good times.
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Oct 10, 2010 07:00
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I found out the 636 hits about 60mph in first gear and was reading triple digits in 2nd.... oops! It was a long empty on ramp  .I think i'm ready for a 1000CC sportbike!
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Oct 10, 2010 10:00
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A while back I posted about breaking off an intake bolt on my '82 Seca. I pulled the head and had a shop unfuck the bolts, then life took over. I haven't been able to do much since then except occasionally clean stuff with steel wool, scotchbrite and solvent. Today I finally stole a few hours, got my poo poo together and remounted the valve head. It wasn't that hard in the end, but that's largely because there was a month of (intermittent) prep work already in place. Stuff like covering the top 1/4" of each stud with masking tape to avoid scraping the head deck, wire brushing each head bolt and washer, re-annealing the copper washers, testing the various sealants and prepping each bolt/washer with a combo of antiseize and Permatex aviation sealant. Then removing the masking tape with a dental pick and tweezers, applying the right torque in stages, realizing that nut #14 couldn't be installed with the other bolts in place, undoing everything and separating the goddamn head by 1/4", installing the fucker, then reapplying torque and hoping I didn't just ruin the new gasket. Next up: coat everything with assembly lube, drop in the cams and fit the cam chain. I also ran the whole exhaust system through an electrolytic rust removal process and plan to paint it with some VHT flame proof paint.
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Oct 11, 2010 02:11
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edit: nevermind
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Oct 11, 2010 07:09
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Sold it - the 1980 Suzuki GS850L went home with someone else this weekend, and I pocketed 1300. Not bad for a bike I only paid 600 for.
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Oct 11, 2010 12:51
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Bought it! Picked up a red/white 07 GSXR 600 and rode it 2 hours home, so much more different than my Ninja 250 it's amazing. Pics later today when I get off work!
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Oct 11, 2010 13:03
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Spiffness posted:Today I 12 oclocked a KTM 65 SX during a 3rd gear power wheelie. It was good times. You: A) are a tiny, tiny man. or B) were sitting waaay the hell back. or D) have found the most powerful KTM 65 ever made. Speaking of KTMs: Today I fixed my 690SMC by breaking it. I disconnected the Lambda sensor (to see if it was causing my startup/surging issues) which throws an error code but still allows the bike to run. Night and day difference. Night and loving Day. It's like the bike it could have been all along. Snatchiness gone, no more surging when holding a level throttle. Everything feels much more together, smoother, and I've got way more confidence in the bike. I could get rid of the error code by just fitting a fat resistor across the sensor heater contacts like I did when I ripped out the secondary air system. The downside of that being that I'm probably burning through more fuel on a bike with an already miniscule tank. I'll monitor the fuel consumption for a couple of tanks and if it's reasonable I'll just disable the code, if it needs adjusting I can always get an adjustable O2 simulator like one of these.
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Oct 11, 2010 20:04
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I'm 6'4", I can only sit 'way far back' on the bike. Wheeling that thing isnt a matter of power, it's a matter of just lifting up on the bars like a small bicycle. It's tiny. That said though, when your a full grown man on the back of the seat it'll totally wheelie on its own on the power, which is just adorable- until you crash. Can you go into some detail on what and how you disabled the sensor? I'm liking what you are saying about smoothness, I'd like to give it a shot.
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Oct 11, 2010 20:38
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Well I bought a GPZ550.... I had a leaky carb, but it ran fine. So i stripped the carbs and cleaned them. When i put them back on (what a mare!) the bike wouldnt turn over. The lcd fuel gauge is connected to the fuel pump. This has a dodgy connection, so I stripped it today and will try the old oven reflow job on it. Just a pain that it was fine before i stripped the carbs.
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Oct 11, 2010 21:47
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I fixed my bike this last saturday. After trying 4 different frankenstein'd carbs, I finally broke down and shelled out a 100 bucks for a brand new Bing carb. Trouble was, it wouldn't fit in the intake by half a milimetre around and I couldn't fix either into the mill, so I had to sand it to fit by hand. A bucket full of elbow grease later and it fit nicely, but I had sanded it into a slight ellipse so it wouldn't seal properly anymore and the airleak made the rpm's run away. So some more sanding, adding an O-ring and applying chain grease liberally as a seal, and voila, it's an airtight fit and the drat thing runs properly. Too bad summer is almost over and I have to ride in the cold now, but that won't stop me.
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Oct 12, 2010 00:09
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Spiffness posted:Can you go into some detail on what and how you disabled the sensor? I'm liking what you are saying about smoothness, I'd like to give it a shot. Have you removed your air-box before? The sensor is on the inside of the header pipe where it curves sharply out of the engine. The cable (White White Grey Black) routes up to the left of the bike, under the airbox and connects to the wiring harness under the air-box with a waterproof 4 pin connector that comes from near the HT coil on the right side. All you need to do is leave it unplugged. What I did was route the cable from the exhaust up to the frame on the right side of the bike and leave both connectors accessible when the panels are still on, so I can plug/unplug on the fly without having to remove the side panels/rectifier/air-box every time. I can take pics/write a short walkthrough if you like. I was planning on writing up some step-by-step picture guides on basic tasks for this bike, as there doesn't seem to be a good repository for this stuff yet. I need to measure the resistance on the sensor heater (the two white wires) tomorrow, but internet research seems to point to a 330Ω resistor being the ticket for fooling the ECU and killing the FI code.
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Oct 12, 2010 00:22
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I finished the Seca head gasket & header paint project! I did the headers with VHT flame proof paint. I haven't done the mufflers yet, but they take 3 seconds to remove so that's a quick job when I'm ready. I started it up and it sounded great, not a bit of smoke or anything. The gas is a bit old so it wasn't as smooth as it could be but I was drat happy regardless. Then the VHT paint started smoking/curing and I had to shut down after it became unbearable. The curing process is 3 step so that's fine. I won't be able to tell if the lean running is fixed until later this weekend when I can get a real test ride in. Here's hoping...
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Oct 15, 2010 07:27
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filed a police report  . i bought my drzsm 15 days ago and its gone.
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Oct 15, 2010 22:19
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SpellEdge posted:filed a police report Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck; did you have insurance?
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Oct 15, 2010 22:24
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SpellEdge posted:filed a police report Who would steal a DRZ?
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Oct 15, 2010 22:25
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A goon or someone who has a hard on for bulletproof stuff
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Oct 15, 2010 22:43
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