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Sniep posted:On the button itself no idea though. Don't ask me where to buy them, but something like this would be awesome if it was mounted right: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/291625679/LED_switch_push_button.html
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Oct 3, 2010 13:12
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I've found these, pretty similar. http://xoxide.com/illswitchmomredring.html
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Oct 3, 2010 14:21
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Gothmog1065 posted:You're right. Just pulled up your manual, only one of each. You can see about getting a fan control, but for a single fan, that's kind of wasteful. You can also try a fan splitter (Y Cable) to plug two three pin fans into your system fan. Fan splitter=now worried about overloading plug on motherboard, thank you Aleron. I looked up the fan control you were talking about. Isn't that just a simple potentiometer? IE: Could buy one for $2 from the electronics store? Would a potentiometer work? Edit: Looked it up and I think it will! To the electronics store! Landerig fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 15:05
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I work for a production company transitioning into a tapeless workflow. That means that our archiving needs have gone through the roof in short order- from a couple of gigs per project to half a terrabyte. I've been archiving projects & media to blu-ray discs for about a year now. But even the dual layer 50gb discs aren't enough. It's taking 10 disc sets to archive a single set of 4k footage (which I have to archive twice to ensure against failures). So, I'm seriously considering using bare SATA drives (each drive would have a clone for extra safety). I found a source for cases and I'll probably put them inside ziploc bags, too. I read somewhere that I need to pull each drive and "exercise" it once every 6-12 months to ensure against magnetic fading. I'll have to figure out a system for reminding me which ones need it. I recognize that hard drives aren't a permanent archiving medium, and I'm planning on rolling everything over to solid state once that stuff becomes more affordable. I've been arguing this very kind of plan for three years now, but I honestly can't see how we can continue using blu-ray, and linear tape options have proven slow, expensive and highly unreliable for us in the past. Here's my question: Is this crazy?
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Oct 3, 2010 16:26
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klem_johansen posted:
Maybe, but sometimes crazy works. If I needed a fast cheap option, I'd go for an idea like yours. There's probably a better more appropriate way though. Right now I backup my files to a spare hard drive. It's the quickest way I've found to make a complete and fairly quick backup. I think they have 3.5" drives over a terabyte by now.
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Oct 3, 2010 17:58
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My boss would like a KVM switch for his desktop and laptop. I'm looking at 2 port KVM's and I'm not finding any with universal praise. Anyone have a suggestion for a good usb port KVM that works with a wireless mouse keyboard (I know the wireless part sounds odd but I've read multiple reviews that say IOgear and trendnet KVM's only work with seperate usb keyboard and mouse)?
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Oct 3, 2010 18:00
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Bensa posted:I've seen lots of motherboards come out with EFI support, but this has mostly been prettying up the BIOS. Is there any implementation that delivers on the supposed lowered boot times?  But no, I've not seen any of our EFI PCs booting faster.
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Oct 3, 2010 18:02
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I'm looking to get a new sound card and looking around I can't really find something I can say would be worth it. (Mostly because I don't understand the difference in specs) Is there something that is cheap yet going to last a year or two until I upgrade? Budget is 150$ or so, but I'd rather pay closer to 100$ or less. Also my video card takes up a load of space so I don't know how much room I have on my other PCI-E slot. Help?
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Oct 3, 2010 21:11
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stackofflapjacks posted:I'm looking to get a new sound card and looking around I can't really find something I can say would be worth it. (Mostly because I don't understand the difference in specs) Is there something that is cheap yet going to last a year or two until I upgrade? Budget is 150$ or so, but I'd rather pay closer to 100$ or less. Honestly if you don't understand the specs, and don't have any weird wonk ways you need to connect, integrated sound is fine, otherwise buy any dirt cheap sound card that is compatible with your OS. Seriously, I'm a guy who likes to sit around listening to old records pushed through a tube amp to a set of klipsch towers hand built in 1974, and any old sound card is good enough for me.
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Oct 3, 2010 21:38
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stackofflapjacks posted:I'm looking to get a new sound card and looking around I can't really find something I can say would be worth it. (Mostly because I don't understand the difference in specs) Is there something that is cheap yet going to last a year or two until I upgrade? Budget is 150$ or so, but I'd rather pay closer to 100$ or less. What are you doing with, it, and what are you hooking it up to?
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Oct 3, 2010 22:04
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I currently use a logitech MK300 Wireless Mouse and keyboard for my system. But I've just started using a laptop that I keep next to my monitor on my desk for some minor multi-tasking as well. I'm currently using a wireless mouse for the laptop as well. Having two wireless mice on my mousepad isn't a huge deal but trying to fit two wireless keyboards on my lap would be a pain. Is there wireless mouse & keyboard combo that would allow me to effortlessly switch my mouse/keyboard control between my desktop and laptop on the fly? Like I just hit a special key on my keyboard/mouse and it switches control from my desktop to my laptop?
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Oct 3, 2010 23:27
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-Blackadder- posted:I currently use a logitech MK300 Wireless Mouse and keyboard for my system. But I've just started using a laptop that I keep next to my monitor on my desk for some minor multi-tasking as well. I'm currently using a wireless mouse for the laptop as well. Having two wireless mice on my mousepad isn't a huge deal but trying to fit two wireless keyboards on my lap would be a pain. Just use Synergy.
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Oct 3, 2010 23:36
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Long story short, a friend asked me to reformat her computer as she thought her OS was bugging out. I got it tonight and realize that it doesn't appear to be the OS, but a hardware issue. I took a video of the screen flickering at the bottom. What am I looking at here? A busted graphics card? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6LnFsu96Lc
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Oct 4, 2010 03:49
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Or your monitor is going out. Have you tested the monitor/computer on something else?
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Oct 4, 2010 03:50
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Boris the Blade posted:I took a video of the screen flickering at the bottom. What am I looking at here?
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Oct 4, 2010 03:51
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Gothmog1065 posted:Or your monitor is going out. Have you tested the monitor/computer on something else? Crap. Forgot to mention it was a laptop. I guess I could try to hook up the VGA output to my TV to see if I still get the flickering.
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Oct 4, 2010 03:52
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Boris the Blade posted:I guess I could try to hook up the VGA output to my TV to see if I still get the flickering.
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Oct 4, 2010 03:52
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Yeah do this. Just played with it for the last 20 minutes. I couldn't get anything to show up on my LCD TV via the VGA port. And before anyone asks, I know I was doing it right as I connect my laptop to my TV all the time. So I'm definitely going with something GPU related.
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Oct 4, 2010 04:17
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Zorilla posted:Just use Synergy. Thanks for this. Had to look up a guide to configure it, but now that I've got it working it does the job perfectly.
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Oct 4, 2010 05:51
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This definitely doesn't deserve its own thread. I've had 3 hard drive failures within the last 6 or so months. Two WD Black 500gb's and one seagate 1TB .12 revision that I got as a replacement like a week ago as I don't trust WD anymore.  What hard drive brand should I go with next that doesn't have the enormous failure rate I've been experiencing with the two giants of the HDD world. Are Hitachi's any good?
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Oct 4, 2010 07:16
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Anybody know why my computer seldom and inexplicably switches the boot order of my SATA and IDE HDDs? It should be noted that I have an old XP install on the IDE, but I am at a loss as to why it only happens on rare occasions and overwrites the setting in BIOS.
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Oct 4, 2010 07:16
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HollowYears posted:This definitely doesn't deserve its own thread.
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Oct 4, 2010 07:20
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This doesn't require it's own thread because it's ridiculously obscure, and I might be in the wrong section. What I've got is the TFT 160X144 screen out of a gameboy color. I want to make it work for me and display neat stuff on my wrist or something. My problem is, I don't know anything about how to program for or control displays on a hardware level in the first place. I don't want you to solve the problem for me. I'm just looking for a push in the right direction. If this post is in the wrong place, feel free to come to my house and punch me in the kidney. And I did manage to dig up a schematic for the Gameboy, which, according to source, is using essentially the same kind of screen as the Gameboy Color, except with colory powers or something.
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Oct 4, 2010 08:07
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unarmed1618 posted:This doesn't require it's own thread because it's ridiculously obscure, and I might be in the wrong section. Well the simplest way is to build the internals of a game boy color from off the shelf components and use a bootleg flash cart to run code off of. This should be possible with a little effort.
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Oct 4, 2010 08:26
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fishmech posted:Well the simplest way is to build the internals of a game boy color from off the shelf components and use a bootleg flash cart to run code off of. This should be possible with a little effort. Well, yes, thats true, but I'm more interested in information about Vsync and Hsync and how to kick them in the balls. I guess I'll just have to ask my circuit analysis professor.
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Oct 4, 2010 15:05
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I'm using a Dell 2405FPW and a Radeon 4800 HD series graphics card. This morning i noticed that there's a tear/lag of sorts down the left side of the monitor. As in, when i move an object like a window or play a movie i can see that there's a slight time delay with the section that's to the left of a certain point. This has pretty much appeared overnight (i watched a film yesterday and it was fine), so is this more likely to be some kind of graphics card fault and if so, what caused it and what's probably the best way to fix it. edit: i think screen tearing is what it's called, but it's happening when i'm just running windows, etc and not a game. A shutdown and 15 minute off period has fixed it, for now. Kin fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Oct 4, 2010 |
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Oct 4, 2010 16:01
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HollowYears posted:This definitely doesn't deserve its own thread. If you have 3 HDD failures in 6 months from 2 different manufacturers, I'd say you need to start trying to find out what might be killing your drives. What has failed on your drives anyways? No power, bad sectors, etc...
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Oct 4, 2010 16:17
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BorderPatrol posted:If you have 3 HDD failures in 6 months from 2 different manufacturers, I'd say you need to start trying to find out what might be killing your drives. Are you sure your PS isn't putting more than 5V into the drives? That's "too much bad luck" if you follow me.
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Oct 4, 2010 19:14
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HollowYears posted:This definitely doesn't deserve its own thread. It's not the brand. Something in the environment is making your hard drives fail. Two hard drives from the same brand is possibly an issue with that brand. Three drives, with one being from another manufacturer tells me you have another issue. Check your PSU, check your cooling system, and maybe check your disk controller.
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Oct 5, 2010 01:54
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Just ran into a harddrive failure myself, on a tx2617ca HP tablet. The failure isn't an issue (3 years old, data's mostly backed up) but finding a replacement drive is! I've been looking for any 250-320GB drive, preferably from a local store (in Ontario) for quick replacement, but the connectors don't match the computer. The old drive was a Samsung Momentus 5400.4 and used some array of vertical pins to connect, while all the drives I'm finding use tabs. I've never purchased a laptop drive before so how should I distinguish which one will work, before I get something shipped?
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Oct 5, 2010 04:52
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Metroid48 posted:Just ran into a harddrive failure myself, on a tx2617ca HP tablet. The failure isn't an issue (3 years old, data's mostly backed up) but finding a replacement drive is! I've been looking for any 250-320GB drive, preferably from a local store (in Ontario) for quick replacement, but the connectors don't match the computer. The old drive was a Samsung Momentus 5400.4 and used some array of vertical pins to connect, while all the drives I'm finding use tabs.
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Oct 5, 2010 05:09
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Alereon posted:It sounds like your old drive was IDE and you're looking at SATA drives. Confirm this by Googling the exact model number (beginning with ST). Good idea but nope, it's definitely a SATA drive. Googling the serial number gets its product page (previously linked) and this newegg page: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148310 I'm wondering if maybe HP just did something weird with the drive? I have an HP pavilion that uses the same connector type, but its drive is something like 4mm longer so it doesn't fit.
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Oct 5, 2010 05:29
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Metroid48 posted:Good idea but nope, it's definitely a SATA drive. Googling the serial number gets its product page (previously linked) and this newegg page: Those vertical pins are just an adapter. Pull it off the old drive and install it onto the new one. 
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Oct 5, 2010 05:32
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Sometimes they put these little plastic adapter things on the connector so that they can slide in easier. Any chance you can take a picture of the connector on the drive?
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Oct 5, 2010 05:33
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BorderPatrol posted:Those vertical pins are just an adapter. Pull it off the old drive and install it onto the new one. Alereon posted:Sometimes they put these little plastic adapter things on the connector so that they can slide in easier. Any chance you can take a picture of the connector on the drive? Oh wow, I'm a moron - that's exactly it, it's just an adapter. New drive is installed, soon to have an OS on it. Thanks guys! Saved a lot of hassle.
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Oct 5, 2010 05:42
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Is 78-79C under load (and 37C idle) safe for a GTX 470? I tried googling and found a few posts suggesting it was OK but then you see other posts claiming their cards run at like 58C under load. It's a brand new card and the case was cleaned out recently so dust wouldn't be an issue. Is there any risk of heat damage if it stays that high?
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Oct 5, 2010 06:11
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Orgone Accumulator posted:Is 78-79C under load (and 37C idle) safe for a GTX 470? I tried googling and found a few posts suggesting it was OK but then you see other posts claiming their cards run at like 58C under load. It's a brand new card and the case was cleaned out recently so dust wouldn't be an issue. Is there any risk of heat damage if it stays that high?
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Oct 5, 2010 06:15
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Alereon posted:Yeah that's entirely reasonable. Here's Crysis and Furmark temperatures for modern cards from Anandtech's Geforce GTX 460 review. <80C is actually really good given the obscene power usage on GF100 GPUs. Awesome, thanks.
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Oct 5, 2010 06:32
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Alereon posted:Yeah that's entirely reasonable. Here's Crysis and Furmark temperatures for modern cards from Anandtech's Geforce GTX 460 review. <80C is actually really good given the obscene power usage on GF100 GPUs. Wow. And here I freak out when something in my PC gets above 60C. Still, running cooler is better, right?
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Oct 5, 2010 18:20
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I was just told to track down a whole bunch of shielded cat6 so that our company electrician can run it throughout the office and such. I have no idea what brand to buy or from where. Our electrician has no idea either. I'm assuming that we need like 500ft of it. My boss wants it to be shielded because the business is in a metal building. Anyone have experience with this stuff? I could really use some help. I'm assuming that I need to also buy all the plugs to go with it. We already have a crimping tool.
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Oct 5, 2010 22:35
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