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stubblyhead posted:I cycled it a few times last night and it didn't leak at all, and my wife says it seems ok so far today. It seems to be bolted down tight, but it also seemed like it was before I unbolted it last night. How tight should I go with the nuts? I've read a few places that tightening unevenly or over-tightening can crack the basin, which I really don't want to do.
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Sep 22, 2010 01:21
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grover posted:Any rocking will open up gaps. It's not just tightening; you also need to shim it. If it's super-tight but still rocks, that's a recipe for cracked porcelain. You don't have to shim a toilet unless the flooring us uneven. You can shim a toilet to a floor and take out the rocking in it with out breaking it. Stubby head did you check the tank for wobble?
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Sep 22, 2010 02:25
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You don't have to shim a toilet unless the flooring us uneven. You can shim a toilet to a floor and take out the rocking in it with out breaking it. The tank is pretty well secured to the bowl, but I'll check for any wobble when I get home. The floor may well be uneven; it's hardwood that's been exposed to water repeatedly. I wouldn't be surprised if it were the original flooring in that room. Any recommendations for how to check for any rocking in the bowl without disturbing the wax seal, which seems to be holding?
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Sep 22, 2010 19:10
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Grab the bowl and move it left to right. It shouldn't move more then a 1/16th side to side. But if you flushed the toilet and no water spewed out its not the ring that's leaking. You can take a piece of toilet paper and starting wiping up the wall and around the toilet. I suggest toilet paper because it shows water really easily.
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Sep 22, 2010 19:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you up the dirty arm to 2 inch you can go 5 ft from the vent. Thanks, I'm nixing the idea of a jet shower now, it's just added cost for little benefit. I may just replace the water heater with an 80 gallon. Are there any issues with upgrading to an 80 from a 40? I have a question about my shower drain though. I plan to reroute the rough-in shower drain they put in. Right now it's all roughed in as shown in the pic with concrete poured and finished. I plan to break up the concrete and move the current shower drain to the otherside of the main drain line. In the pic, the current line is circled and I would like to change it to where I drew in green. The line in green will be a little longer than the current line as I need a bit more distance from the toilet line. Are there any code issues with changing this shower drain? Should i remove the shower line entirely or can I get away with leaving it capped off under the floor? I'm not scared to break up concrete and glue in new abs pipe, but I just want to make sure it passes code.
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Sep 27, 2010 03:20
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Ahz posted:Thanks, I'm nixing the idea of a jet shower now, it's just added cost for little benefit. I may just replace the water heater with an 80 gallon. Are there any issues with upgrading to an 80 from a 40? Ahz posted:I have a question about my shower drain though. I plan to reroute the rough-in shower drain they put in. Right now it's all roughed in as shown in the pic with concrete poured and finished. I plan to break up the concrete and move the current shower drain to the otherside of the main drain line. I'd just cap the old shower line and cut in a new Wye on the left side. And then with in 5 ft of the p trap roll another wye with 45 for the vent. If that doesnt make sense I can draw out a picture.
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Sep 27, 2010 06:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The flu size should be the lame depending on the BTU difference. You may need to redo some of the gas piping to accommodate the larger BTU demand. If you could please, I'm having a little trouble understanding how best to tie in a new vent to the new line? Also once I create a new vent, is it ok to tie into the existing vent that runs off the sink line. I would likely run the new vent up the perimeter wall and connect it within the ceiling of the basement bathroom.
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Sep 27, 2010 14:38
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Also, if I tie into the main drain where it's white, it that still ABS? or is it PVC? If I tie into that, what is the best way to connect ABS and PVC?
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Sep 27, 2010 14:40
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Ahz posted:If you could please, I'm having a little trouble understanding how best to tie in a new vent to the new line? Also once I create a new vent, is it ok to tie into the existing vent that runs off the sink line. I would likely run the new vent up the perimeter wall and connect it within the ceiling of the basement bathroom. Grade all pipe at 1/4 inch per foot. Unless grade is limited then do minimum of 1/8th per foot. I drew up an over head picture because I didn't have time to go to my work and lay out the real fittings. You will need a 3"3"x2" wye, a 2"x2"x1.5" wye, a 1.5" 45, 1.5" long sweep 90, 2" p-trap. two - 3" No hub bands. one 2" perm cap. You will have to cut open the floor with enough space for 2- 3" no hub bands and a 3x2 wye. Glue a short piece of pipe into the 3x2 wye (enough for the bands also, usually 1.5 inches out of the hub of a the wye is enough for the No hub bands) The 2 inch outlet of the wye needs to be slightly graded. Just roll it enough so its not completely flat or back graded. Run some 2 inch pipe. When within 5 feet of the shower drain put the 2x2x1.5 wye. Already have the 1.5" 45 glued into the wye where it is pointing straight also. This will make it so you have a 2 inch line and a inch and a 1.5" line pointing towards the wall. When you glue in the 2x2x1.5 wye make sure the 1.5 45 is rolled at a 45 angle. so the bottom of the 45 is above the 2 inch pipe (if you have room to do this). Now continue to run the 2 inch drain to the shower drain. Install the P trap and make sure you have the center correctly. Since this is basically make it or break it. You can add a card board box around the drain to block out the concrete so you can dig it up once the concrete is poured and plumb the p-trap then. This makes it easier to hit the center since nothing can really move then.) If you plumb the 2 inch drain right you shouldn't need anything more then a 45 and p trap to hit the center. Once you have the drain done bury it with dirt and make sure its properly graded. Build up some dirt under the 1.5" wye and run the vent (graded if possible to a wall and use a long sweep to stub the vent up through the concrete slab. Now bury the drain and vent with more dirt and make sure there is no sharp rocks under your pipe because it can cause issues in the future. Pour concrete and then once its cured you can run that vent to the vent on the lav with a couple 90's. To answer your question about material. ABS is black and PVC is white. I'd use what ever is easier to get. Make sure its SCH 40 pipe regardless of what material you find at your local hardware store. Also having a level that shows grade with 1/4, 1/8th and 1/3rds is nice.  Click here for the full 1280x959 image. I hope this explanation is better. The pic is a top view with circles being a vertical pipe coming through he slab.
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Sep 27, 2010 22:36
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Grade all pipe at 1/4 inch per foot. Unless grade is limited then do minimum of 1/8th per foot. Thanks! Right now the shower line is capped off already within a hole in the concrete. It looks like they boxed in the shower line, poured the floor, and then removed the box to keep the shower line accessible for a p-trap. Anyways it's capped with a plastic cap and I intend to just cover that area with laundry cabinets. That would be fine right? or would I need to abs glue a permanent cap before I put the cabinets over? I'm a little confused about the extra wye for the shower. I get that I need the wye on the line between the shower drain and the main line wye. I also get that the vent will be a 1.5" line rather than the 2" drain for the shower itself. I also see how you laid out the vent line to veer off from the shower drain and then run parallel to the shower drain until it hits the wall. But it sounds like you're describing another bend or wye in there somewhere? I understand I want the vent line on a higher grade than the shower right? Also can abs line be run within steel studs without a grommet? It's already studded on the perimeter wall and would just plan to connect the vents somewhere at head level within the wall framing vs. the joists. I also plan to cut the pvc portion of the main line to put in the wye, I intend to put in a pvc wye and then use abs for the rest of the shower drain lines, is that right? I am also assuming the 'bands' you're talking about are those coupler pieces I see? I'm not sure of all the terms, but this would be my second diy drainage job where the last thing I did was install a new kitchen and drain system under the sink.
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Sep 28, 2010 18:57
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Ahz posted:Thanks! Ahz posted:
Ahz posted:
Ahz posted:
Yes you will need to cut into the main line to add in that 3x3x2 wye. I suggest cutting out a section for a wye to fit in and room to roll bands. Now why do you want to mix abs and pvc. Just stick with one or another. You can use bands to Transition between them. As long as its SCH 40 pipe. If you go with pvc don't buy sch 20 (its thin and can be crushed with your hands).  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xim/R-100087334/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 They are also called a Fernco. I'd suggest getting a shielded band. Since it will protect it better then just a band out of rubber with no metal shield on it. Ahz posted:I'm not sure of all the terms, but this would be my second diy drainage job where the last thing I did was install a new kitchen and drain system under the sink.
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Sep 28, 2010 20:45
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I've loved reading this thread so far  , and wish to both share experiences and ask questions.I just bought a house. The Our water pressure was really high -- 115PSI. It blew the head off of an Ortho lawn sprayer bottle  . A buddy of mine installed a pressure reducing valve, currently set at 55PSI. Q: How much do those affect the flow rate? I believe I have a 1" main, but he used 3/4" PEX after the reducer. We also have hard water here (10 grain per gallon), so a softener is in the plans for the near future to help save the tankless heater. Q: When I install the softener, will the softened water break up or dissolve existing limescale in the softener? After seeing pictures of PEX manifolds online, and being a goonygoon, it's now mission-critical to change everything to PEX. This will happen at the same time as the softener. There are legitimate reasons to go PEX (not just because it's really sexy), like most of the pipes are tiny (my kitchen sink is fed with something like 3/8" -- it flows about 2GPM even without the limiter). Here's my plan for plumbing: The water inlet is on the opposite side of the basement as the heater. I want the water to come in from the main, and immediately hit my pressure valve. From there, it will go immediately to an expansion tank. After that, straight to a big passthrough 4-port PEX maniblock. 3 of the 4 ports will go to the hosebibs outside. The 4th port will be used as a bleed should I ever need it, and will remain turned off. The passthrough will go up into the rafters, to the other side of my basement (maybe a 20 foot run). From there, it will go into a 1" sediment filter. The output from the sediment filter will feed the water softener. The output from the softener will T (are there any good, high-flow PEXly T's? Am I doing this part wrong?). One side of the T will hit the cold side of the maniblock, the other will go to the cold input on the tankless heater. The output from the heater will be bent into a "U" shape into the input on the maniblock. My buddy used a lot of elbows when he installed our heater, and I really don't like them. They look like they completely nerf the diameter and flow rate. The maniblock will run 3/4" lines to all of the baths/showers, and 1/2" everywhere else. Thoughts? Should a sediment filter be placed before the pressure reducer instead of after it?
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Sep 30, 2010 04:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I would suggest using a glue on permanent cap, sice Speaking of shielded bands, does anyone know a way of adding a shield to an unshielded band without taking the pipes apart? There are two joining cast iron to PVC and back in my house and I'd much prefer they were shielded.
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Sep 30, 2010 04:55
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mcsuede posted:Speaking of shielded bands, does anyone know a way of adding a shield to an unshielded band without taking the pipes apart? There are two joining cast iron to PVC and back in my house and I'd much prefer they were shielded. Ya you can buy a No hub and just take it apart. Just unscrew the hose clamps and the shields usually pop apart.
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Sep 30, 2010 07:15
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insta posted:I've loved reading this thread so far I can't really say how it will affect the flow with out looking at the entire system and seeing all the variables. I don't think the softened water will dissolve the existing lime scale. You can use vinegar if you are really worried about it. I'd put the sediment filter before the PRV. Because you want to keep the sediment out of the PRV or you may get bits between the rubber of it and then you will get bleed through. Also put ball valves on the inlet and out let of the sediment filter. This way you don't have to bleed the entire house down to clean it out. I am not to familiar with the sediment filters but what size of sediments are you trying to catch? Because if its something as big as like 1/16th you could throw in a brass wye strainer that would handle the high pressure you have better then a cheap plastic filter from home depot. I can not say how you are doing is correctly on water sizing. I will upload some tables out of my code book. It basically tells you what size pipe can service what. Also I don't really like crimp pex any more. I don't like the fact that you put the brass fitting inside of the pipe which further limits the water flow. I personally like Uponor pipe but the expanding tool is expensive. And home depot doesn't sell it. How many bathroom house do you have? I imagine you are you a warmer client if water pipe is in the rafters. I obviously wouldnt do that if you lived in colder climates , but if the previous plumber did it and you haven't had any freezing issues then you should be fine.
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Sep 30, 2010 07:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I don't think the softened water will dissolve the existing lime scale. You can use vinegar if you are really worried about it. I've already found sediment (in like 6 weeks) that's clogging the inlet strainer of the PRV. So, I guess I'll be putting a big filter before everything (I don't necessarily care if my outside hoses are gritty though). Good catch on the ball valves, that was definitely something I had missed ... I guess I'll go find my local PEX store and wander around like a retard drooling everywhere. Thanks for the help
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Sep 30, 2010 13:55
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insta posted:I've already found sediment (in like 6 weeks) that's clogging the inlet strainer of the PRV. So, I guess I'll be putting a big filter before everything (I don't necessarily care if my outside hoses are gritty though). Good catch on the ball valves, that was definitely something I had missed ... Sediment could cause the hose bibs to leak after awhile. But its up to you. And I think home depot or lowes is the only one who sells pex fittings. Unless you can find a plumber who will let you use his account at a supply house.
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Oct 1, 2010 06:04
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Thanks again for your help! The wife and I are thinking of changing the plan a bit. Instead of running a new line for the shower, we were thinking of taking both the existing lines for the shower and toilet stack and shifting them both over about 12" to the left of that photo. No additional lines, no wye's etc. Just taking those two pre-existing drains, cracking open the floor and offsetting the placement of each drain. Is this something that's easily doable under code? I am thinking of maybe opening the floor and adding a slight bend in the line, maybe 45 degrees. Are there any issues with the toilet stack having a bend in it like that or the shower line? I'm not sure as the toilet stack is running in a straight line all the way out of the property. Thanks
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Oct 3, 2010 01:22
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Putting a 45 is completely fine. You won't have any issues as long as you keep the offset flat and don't have the 45 rolled up or down.
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Oct 3, 2010 17:29
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I can't quite tell with my pictures, but would a toilet stack like that be vented directly, or would it utilize the vents coming off the rest of the drainage lines for the home? My picture is fuzzy and I can't quite tell if the toilet stack is connected with a wye within 12" of hitting the ground level run. I'm primarily concerned if there is a wye there that it may limit my options for installing a 'street' 45d bend and having proper venting. Also is it common to have to deal with rebar when I rip up the floor?
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Oct 3, 2010 19:47
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Ahz posted:I can't quite tell with my pictures, but would a toilet stack like that be vented directly, or would it utilize the vents coming off the rest of the drainage lines for the home? My picture is fuzzy and I can't quite tell if the toilet stack is connected with a wye within 12" of hitting the ground level run. I'm primarily concerned if there is a wye there that it may limit my options for installing a 'street' 45d bend and having proper venting. Most likely the toilet is vented with a wye rolled. I wish you had another angle of that picture because I can't see the vent to well. And yes rebar can be common in a slab, usually by load bearing points. But it all depends on who built it. Its more common found in concrete walls.
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Oct 3, 2010 19:54
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Thanks, Also, for the laundry machine which is on its own stack/vent right now (upper right of my picture), what is the best way to reroute this drain line for both a small laundry sink and the washing machine? All I have right now is the washing machine flexible drain hose which is maybe 1"OD sitting in that long drain line as shown in the pic.
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Oct 4, 2010 21:51
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This was posted earlier but its also on GIS. This is one of the many ways you can do it.
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Oct 4, 2010 23:48
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I'm designing a small cottage that has no sewer connection. Toilet will be a composter and the sinks and shower will run as greywater to the garden. I'm thinking instead of a vent to the roof, I'll just have one vent on the outside of the cottage 8" above the highest drain. Since there's no sewer gases, I figure that's all that would be necessary, right?
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Oct 5, 2010 02:31
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dwoloz posted:I'm designing a small cottage that has no sewer connection. Toilet will be a composter and the sinks and shower will run as greywater to the garden. Is it going to be inspected at all? Because no inspector will accept a vent through a wall. But lets say its going to be in the back woods some where with out an inspection. I wouldn't suggest having the vent terminate outside of wall. If you do decided to, I would suggest atleast having the vent 6"+ above the flood level rim of the highest fixture, not just the drain. Unless its a suds producing fixture , then you will have a nice fountain of suds coming out of your wall. Also just because there is no sewage going through a line, doesn't mean it wont smell. A kitchen sink with food waste being washed down it will start to smell after awhile. So that also means you should put a trap on all sinks. Any other questions?
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Oct 5, 2010 02:46
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That picture makes sense. I see a vent for the washing machine right before the wye that connects the drain for the sink, that's a necessary vent right and they can't share the same exact vent line until above? Also is that layout correct as far as the two p-traps and height? Are there any issues that I should be concerned with, or just that the upper vent connection is higher than the highest drain?
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Oct 5, 2010 03:29
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Ahz posted:That picture makes sense. I see a vent for the washing machine right before the wye that connects the drain for the sink, that's a necessary vent right and they can't share the same exact vent line until above? By 2003 UPC code the bottom of the washer box's P trap should be at least 6 inches of the ground. The standpipe (vertical section of pipe that connects to the washer box itself from the P trap) should be between 18-30 inches. It must be a 2 inch line with a vent of 1.5".Throwing a clean out above the dirty arm of the washer box isn't a bad idea either (but its not required). The laundry tray drain can be 1.5" but there is nothing wrong making the drain 2 inches with a 1.5" dirty arm and vent 1.5". The vent should be connected 6" above the flood level rim.* Vents should be graded towards the drain itself but can be run flat if grade doesn't permit it. If you can't offset the vent at least 6 inches above the flood level rim, it is still considered as a drain, and should be treated as one. (basically if you are offsetting below the flood level rim you have to use a long sweep 90 and graded , just in case water backs up and gets in there) * Flood level rim: The top edge of a receptor from which water overflows (the flood level rim is basically the top of a fixture. Basically the highest point that water could back up into it before over flowing. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Oct 5, 2010 |
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Oct 5, 2010 04:15
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I am about to make the call on drywalling, which will effectively seal off my entire basement plumbing system. As some of you may remember from earlier this year I was redoing stuff for my home theater finishing project. My home is CPVC. CPVC that I have seen other homes in the subdivision with TERRIBLE plumbing and poorly cemented joints. I redid most of the basement already, so I know my work is sound, but I am starting to wonder if I should save myself a huge headache down the road and redo the exposed work from the water supply on to the farthest reaches with PEX or something before I do drywall. Reason I bring this up now is I have a leak under my kitchen sink and noticed my dishwasher supply line is a cheap flexible PVC hose with a cheap plastic pull-to-close valve glued to at CPVC T-joint. To replace the hose I would need to replumb the loving thing which would require chopping off the thing in the basement right under the floor and bringing up a new section of pipe since there is nothing extra to connect to after the chopped off valve.  I dont want to spend money where I dont have to, but I really dont want to tear down expensive drywall in my theater room from lovely plumbing. If I play my cards right I might even be able to splice into the CPVC in the wall as it comes out of the basement, and get 100% PEX down there with a lead partially into the first floor. What am I looking at for 3/4" equivalent PEX for 50 feet of hot, 50 feet of cold, maybe 15 T joints, a few PEX to CPVC joints, and the needed crimp tools? edit: speeling dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 03:52
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dietcokefiend posted:I am about to make the call on drywalling, which will effectively seal off my entire basement plumbing system. As some of you may remember from earlier this year I was redoing stuff for my home theater finishing project. What is your water pressure, I would most likely run larger then 3/4 pex pipe, also what type of fixtures are you hitting, because this also determines your pipe sizing.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:20
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Was wondering what ballpark $ amount I was looking at to replace all the CPVC in my basement and what sticks up to first floor stuff (sinks/toilet). Basic rundown: Copper from the street through the foundation wall. I want to say its like a 3/4" pipe or something. I have 3/4 CPVC connected to the top of that feeding my home on the primary runs, 1/2" to areas with less demand (one sink/toilet vs whole upstairs). Right now in the basement I have the following poo poo connecting to the first floor: Toilet + bathroom sink Kitchen sink/dishwaser exterior water hookup (wouldnt mind another on other side of house) The last outbound through the first floor is 3/4" cold and hot that branches that supplies the whole upstairs with two showers, my fridge ice maker, and my utility closet with washer machine lines. The hot water heater is on a loop fed by 3/4" pipe in and out. I am only looking to replace what is easily accessed in the basement. This includes all exposed pipe from the primary feed, all the sink stubs that stick through the floor, the line that goes to the outdoor faucet, and the loop around the water heater. The branch that goes up through the floor that supplies the rest of my house I will try to connect to as far up as possible. If when I cut into the wall I see an easy access spot I will install a little door and get it joined above the first floor. If its screwy with lots of joints, I will connect it in the basement ceiling. I would prefer to copy the current runs as closely as possible keeping the current branch structure. Going to a manifold system with individual lines to each area is not my cup of tea.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:37
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dietcokefiend posted:Was wondering what ballpark $ amount I was looking at to replace all the CPVC in my basement and what sticks up to first floor stuff (sinks/toilet). Ok if it's run in 3/4 it should be fine for volume. I honestly can't give you an exact price because its been awhile since i have priced out crimp pex. Also add in the price of angle (or straight) stops for under the sink. Also New supply hoses for every fixture. If you take one off and the black rubber gasket in the leaves black residue on your finger then you should replace them.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:42
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Well right now the only thing that has supply hoses are the washer and dishwasher. Everything else is hard pipe. The sinks have gray rigid PEX with a tapered donut looking thing on the end of them that go into fittings and the toilet is a bent chrome pipe or something. I am just trying to guess ballpark figure. If I can do this for under 500 bucks with tools I might consider it, if its well above that I don't know if its feasible right now.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:51
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dietcokefiend posted:Well right now the only thing that has supply hoses are the washer and dishwasher. Everything else is hard pipe. The sinks have gray rigid PEX with a tapered donut looking thing on the end of them that go into fittings and the toilet is a bent chrome pipe or something. Have you tried home depot? They usually sell pex and let you rent the crimpers.
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Oct 6, 2010 05:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Have you tried home depot? They usually sell pex and let you rent the crimpers. Reading through plumber forums it seems like Lowes/Hd sell the lower grade pipe and fittings. Also not to excited when I see the Uponor lawsuit and stuff. What PEX is preferred these days?
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Oct 6, 2010 05:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Reading through plumber forums it seems like Lowes/Hd sell the lower grade pipe and fittings. Also not to excited when I see the Uponor lawsuit and stuff. What PEX is preferred these days? I think the uponor lawsuit was only for there brass fittings I believe. The uponor system is what my work uses for water pipe and infloor heating, but you cant get the fittings or tools at home depot.
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Oct 6, 2010 05:30
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I think the uponor lawsuit was only for there brass fittings I believe. The uponor system is what my work uses for water pipe and infloor heating, but you cant get the fittings or tools at home depot. Saw one of the kits for 300, but wondering if it is still considered one of the "pro" options on the market. Any reliability issues with the fittings on that system?
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Oct 6, 2010 05:36
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So I guess at the end of the day would PEX regardless of fitting/etc used still be better than CPVC?
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Oct 6, 2010 05:45
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dietcokefiend posted:So I guess at the end of the day would PEX regardless of fitting/etc used still be better than CPVC? The problem with the crimp pex is it limits flow with the fitting going inside the pipe. Over all its not bad except make sure the crimpers arent to loose or they don't really do any good. And you usually find each size of crimpers for about $100, so that's about average.
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Oct 6, 2010 05:48
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Ahh ok well that makes sense then. Also realized a small bummer with my plan of doing ALL the easily accessed plumbing. I thought my first floor bathroom came up through the floor into the bottom of the sink area. It instead comes in through the wall. I guess that one if I redo the pex will have a Pex to CPVC fitting in the floor joist area like the other branch. What is the lifespan of PEX in terms of flexibility? Are people able to take a 15 year old section of the tubing, use an expansion tool and connect a new fitting without splitting or tearing the pipe? It seems like doing this would be a very good thing (tm) since I can do it myself and CPVC has a shady loving background. I jsut wish I could do all of it, but I guess stuff hidden in the walls would be as easy to replace right now as it would 15 years from now. The basement stuff is where its at since it would take a weekend and its all exposed from the floor joists. Bends wise... can you just route it like a garden hose going to items? I know it has radius limits but could I just go from a joist-cavity PEX bracket to a soft radius bend pointing to the top of the water heater pipe-stack (copper sticking out a foot or so)? It seems almost too easy.
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Oct 6, 2010 06:00
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dietcokefiend posted:Ahh ok well that makes sense then. Only certain types of pex can be used with an expander. I believe its Pex-A. Pex-C is what home depot sells. You can use crimp pex on pex A or C. Pex A is cool because if you king it, you can heat it up with a heat gun to take out the kink. The pipe can do decent radius but not to tight of bends. Rolling it in a joist is fine but bending it in a wall doesnt work. You can get these plastic 90's that you put the pipe in and it makes it turn 90's inside a 2x4 wall. And yes it is easy, a monkey could be trained to do it. Also you can't have pex with in 18 inches of water heats inlet and outlet.
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Oct 6, 2010 06:17
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