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I'm having some fun with a scammer over at i-club if anyone wants to follow along. http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224017
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Oct 5, 2010 19:02
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| # ? May 14, 2024 02:34 |
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Sockington posted:I was looking at some WRX style fender replacements, but the rear is WAY too involved for my tastes. What about the diff lock switch? You must make the diff lock switch.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:03
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Ordered a set of Blizzak WS70s in 205/55/16 last night. Snow and Ice can't come quickly enough.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:06
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Blaise posted:Ordered a set of Blizzak WS70s in 205/55/16 last night. Snow and Ice can't come quickly enough. Be sure to get some action shots for us to show off how well those grip on snow covered parking lots/frozen ponds/lakes. All us poor california wrx owners don't get to play in the snow much.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:09
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Just Another XY posted:Hm. My '09 WRX needs new tires. After having made a great idea to move from San Diego to Chicago, looks like I'm going to be buying two sets of tires very soon. I went from DZ101s on my race car to Star Specs and gained nearly 20 seconds at Thunderhill, although 50% power increase and other things probably helped, thats a gigantic change in time on a 3.0mi course. The traction available was immense, and went from a car with lots of crappy tire to a car with lots of great tire, and they barely wore with ~16 hours of racing with aggressive suspension setup.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:24
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jamal posted:Sockington, your TS uprights/hubs/control arms etc are the same as a WRX wagon. To change the brakes you just need new caliper brackets and rotors. In the rear if you have drums it is better to swap the whole upright though because the hub needs to come out to change the backing plate. I was thinking of doing the uprights/hubs since 8ender mentioned he hosed one up somehow (and they are probably rusted solid). I NEED the control arms, because of this;  The other side (without bonus rust through hole on control arm)  As you can see, clean California parts would make this swap MUCH easier than trying to make the current stuff work.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:28
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don't have any of that stuff around unfortunately. Classifieds and car part out threads on nasioc in socal or southwest region would be your best bet I think.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:33
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I think I might just do SGP for mine. Be nice if I could get neato aftermarket ones but I don't think SPT ever made any that fit the wagon. Also related: http://www.subaru.com/content/static/fightmediocrity/game.html
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Oct 5, 2010 20:25
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yeah there are spt aluminum control arms for the wagon/gc. I've always wanted a set but they're like $350 ea. Could probably find some from a shop that imports JDM clips. I'll ask around a bit.
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Oct 5, 2010 20:49
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There's a handful of JDM places locally, but yeah, please throw me a PM if you hear of anything. I'm looking at like $181 plus shipping for a wagon LCA from SGP, which is ok but stretching the bounds of what I'd consider reasonable especially since I'd be throwing in the kartboy bushings while I'm under there anyway.
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Oct 5, 2010 20:59
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Sockington posted:I was thinking of doing the uprights/hubs since 8ender mentioned he hosed one up somehow (and they are probably rusted solid). The wheel bearing in the one hub (the side with the scar) got wrecked when I put the car in a ditch. I had the bearing replaced but about a year later I was getting that clunking around corners. Thinking axle I replaced it but the clunking returned. So either that replacement axle was a dud or the hub itself is messed up. Someone else here with the same year Impreza was complaining about the same sort of clunking and it ended up being the hub in the end. The last time I looked into this I found that the brand new hubs available from RockAuto were surprisingly reasonable. Something like $70 / Hub.
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Oct 5, 2010 21:17
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no way I'd pay $400 for some lovely steel control arms. I bent one, did an online junkyard search, and had one shipped to me for $35, and it was in perfect shape. If you got some wrx axles, and some used aluminum sti control arms, and new endlinks you could have a sedan front track of new steel arms. That would give you more camber, more caster, and a better handling car.
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Oct 6, 2010 01:52
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What's that in your back room with my name on it, Canada Post? I only need one control arm done, and I'm not even sure if that's the cause of my weird-rear end alignment problem, so the cheaper the better. I'll hit up car-part and see if they have any WRX LCAs.
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Oct 6, 2010 03:12
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So, what's more maddening than a new noise after getting a car repaired? The noise disappearing after you call and setup a time to demonstrate said noise (especially when it requires you to get up an hour earlier than normal.) So, now I don't know what to do. If I turn left at full lock, the rubbing/scraping sound is gone. I could reproduce it after work after I did a few circles in the parking lot. I swear I heard it pulling into my garage when I got home. I went and did some running around tonight after dinner and it's nowhere to be found. Does ANYONE have any ideas what it could have been? I crawled under the car last night and couldn't see anything odd. I couldn't reproduce it rotating the wheels in the air. I could find no evidence that the wheels were rubbing on anything. But I put the car back down last night and it happened right away. Now, nothing. I just, for the life of me, can't figure out what could possible make that noise only when the wheel was at or near left full lock. The last time I had anything remotely like this happen, my driver's side wheel bearing was going and the the opposite (driver's) side would make a rubbing/scraping noise when turning right (getting more severe the tighter the turn got.) What was happening in that case was the hub was being pulled away from the car causing the rotor to scrape the caliper bracket. I was almost convinced that the stress of removing and re-torquing the axle nut pushed a borderline wheel bearing over the edge on the passenger side, but now I'm not so sure anymore. I would have thought they would have inspected the wheel bearing (as much they could) while they had the axle out.
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Oct 6, 2010 03:28
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probably just the dust shield rubbing on the rotor or something.
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Oct 6, 2010 03:31
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jamal posted:probably just the dust shield rubbing on the rotor or something. I was wondering about that, but I'm having trouble picturing how the dust shield would change position in relation to the rotor depending on steering angle. That's what is puzzling me, anything I can think of that would rub in relation to the spinning wheel shouldn't get closer as the wheel is turned (except the tire itself.) Edit: I let it sit outside for a few hours (45 degrees outside right now) so it could get to a completely cold temp and it's still not doing it. I guess I'll call off the appointment tomorrow since I have nothing to demonstrate. Hopefully it stays gone. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 03:46
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I know it was kinda linked above, but I *LOVE* the new Mediocrity campaign!!! http://www.autoblog.com/2010/10/05/subaru-launches-2011-mediocrity-marketing-campaign-w-video/
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Oct 6, 2010 05:53
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Blaise posted:I know it was kinda linked above, but I *LOVE* the new Mediocrity campaign!!! Heh. The videos ring a bell for how I feel about my Subaru. :| Gets me from point A, to point B without any excitement or flare. But it's gotten me there reliably. FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 07:13
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Ha, General Beckman from Chuck is now apparently doing Subaru commercials.
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Oct 6, 2010 12:51
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bull3964 posted:So, what's more maddening than a new noise after getting a car repaired? I had a strange metal rubbing noise on my '99 2.5rs that would come and go and sometimes correspond with turning. It took me forever to figure out what it was: the e-brake drum in my driver's side wheel had a bolt rust off and the pad was rubbing. I never saw it until I went and replaced my rear rotors, as the e-brake drum is located on the inside portion of the rotor. dyne fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 18:41
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jamal posted:no way I'd pay $400 for some lovely steel control arms. I bent one, did an online junkyard search, and had one shipped to me for $35, and it was in perfect shape. The problem with the fancy al control arms is that when you drive like a moron and run into a curb, you have to buy another $500 CA plus all the other poo poo you broke. When I did this (because i'm stupid) I was happy to have not done the Spec B upgrade.
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Oct 6, 2010 20:48
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Car-part seems to imply that the control arm off a 2005 9-2X is interchangeable with my wagon's control arm. This seems a little weird; I thought the NA Imprezas had different control arms than the WRX (at least, SGP seems to indicate as such). Are the 9-2X control arms different from the 04/05 Impreza control arms somehow? If I can throw these on, I get to save a few bucks.
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Oct 6, 2010 20:58
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So, how dangerous are spring compressors? I'm not liking the quotes I'm hearing for installing all 4 new struts on my car. I would much rather sink the money into the tools involved (electric impact wrench, etc.)
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Oct 6, 2010 21:00
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bull3964 posted:So, how dangerous are spring compressors? Thy aren't bad if you aren't accident prone. To be more cheap, Autozone loans these out.
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Oct 6, 2010 21:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Car-part seems to imply that the control arm off a 2005 9-2X is interchangeable with my wagon's control arm. This seems a little weird; I thought the NA Imprezas had different control arms than the WRX (at least, SGP seems to indicate as such). WRX wagon has the same track as the non-turbo. Only the wrx and sti sedan have a wider track, and only 1-2 years of the wrx got aluminum arms. The 04-06 sti got high caster spec-c arms and the 07 went to the wrx arms. bull3964 posted:So, how dangerous are spring compressors? I've used the cheapo spring compressors tons of times without issue. We have this at the shop and it's awesome:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 21:15
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Hrm, I may attempt it myself. I just don't like getting elbow deep in a wrenching project when this is my only car. If my new one was sitting in the driveway now, I wouldn't have any hesitation. Speaking of which, emailed the sales guy. 3 weeks since the order and it hasn't even been built yet. Looking like mid to late November before I get it.
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Oct 6, 2010 21:45
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Speaking of rust, should I tackle this, take it somewhere reputable to deal with, or just forget about it? It's the left rear wheel well on a '99 Impreza Outback Sport. It didn't look that bad before but I've neglected the rust spot all summer and now it looks like it's perforated. How much good could I do with a cordless drill, a paint stripper bit, some sandpaper, and some primer? I'm just afraid I won't be able to pull the rear bumper cover because the screws will be completely rusted to the surrounding metal.  I've had the car for more than five years and I was planning on keeping it at least through this winter though I may hold off on a new car until next winter. 
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Oct 6, 2010 21:54
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jamal posted:guess what you just bought. Does it look like this?  Click here for the full 2032x1520 image.
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Oct 6, 2010 22:09
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bull3964 posted:So, how dangerous are spring compressors? It's really not bad. You just need a 2nd person for feeding the rears up to the strut mounts (at least in my wagon I did) and power tools are really nice for tightening/loosening the compressors (even though it says you shouldn't). Buy air tools btw. Electric is a waste.
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Oct 6, 2010 22:31
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I found a place that'll do the install for about $200 which is a far cry from the $550 I was quoted at a chain place so I'm just going to go with that.
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Oct 6, 2010 23:15
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jamal posted:WRX wagon has the same track as the non-turbo. Only the wrx and sti sedan have a wider track, and only 1-2 years of the wrx got aluminum arms. The 04-06 sti got high caster spec-c arms and the 07 went to the wrx arms. Strange thing is, I can't find anyone talking about why this is the case or if the change is superficial (materials) or structural. It looks like a few other Subarus (Outbacks) have a "from 7/21/05" on their control arms.
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Oct 6, 2010 23:52
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bull3964 posted:I found a place that'll do the install for about $200 which is a far cry from the $550 I was quoted at a chain place so I'm just going to go with that. 200 is what we charge. Seat Safety Switch posted:Looks like Subaru did something weird on my model; according to car-part, cars made past 7/21/05 have a different RF control arm. Mine was made February '06. probably added a tab for the wheel position sensor on cars with self-leveling hids (which don't even exist in north america). jamal fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 7, 2010 00:04
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Some guy was leaning on my WRX spoiler today. I have now spent the entire day wondering if there's any hidden damage done. I hate being so neurotic over cars.
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Oct 7, 2010 01:14
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Bob Log posted:If you're honestly looking for cheap, I would suggest making your own. Cut out a template with cardboard and use some tools to cut out some mesh/metal to cover the spot. jamal posted:I think grillcraft makes those or some just like that. Thanks for these. I like the DIY, but how the hell would I bend U edging to fit the mesh like in that pic? Probably need special tools? The grill craft is nice, but I feel it sits in a little bit too far. I'm gonna attempt a DIY when I figure out how I'll handle that edging... edit: actually if it's soft enough it should be a piece of cake. But I bet it's more rigid and may buckle when bent. itskage fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 7, 2010 03:08
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infrared35 posted:Speaking of rust, should I tackle this, take it somewhere reputable to deal with, or just forget about it? Ha, I have a lot of rust in that exact same spot on my '97 Legacy Outback and saw that same spot rusty on countless Subarus of this era in the junkyard. Mine's rusted clean through in the spot right above where the bumper starts. After considering grinding it off, using a rust converter spray, pop-riveting fresh metal over top, and then buying the two different colors of spray-on touch-up paint to make it look somewhat presentable, I said to hell with it and plan on just driving it like that indefinitely. I recommend you do the same, especially if you're planning on getting another car in a year or two anyways. By the way, you're right to fear removing any screws from below the belt-line of the car. Every bit of work I've done to mine has been complicated by rusty bolts shearing off, throwing rust flakes into my eyes, or otherwise slowing me down. Such is life in the Northeastern US.
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Oct 7, 2010 15:38
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Kageneko posted:I'm gonna attempt a DIY when I figure out how I'll handle that edging... There's a couple of ways to do it, but your best bet for a good fit and finish would be bending a flimsy piece of aluminum scrap around the edge then weld it to the grill or otherwise secure it. Bending the metal around the edge could be hard without the proper tools but it's your best bet IMHO. You could just screw the grille directly to the back of the respective opening as well if you wanted to save some money, time and headaches. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 7, 2010 15:52
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infrared35 posted:Speaking of rust, should I tackle this, take it somewhere reputable to deal with, or just forget about it? Yup, that is the stereotypical spot for our older imprezas. Plastic bumper rubs the metal part there wearing thru the paint. I guarantee, the rust you don't see is far worse. As stated earlier, if you plan on ditching it later. Just live with it.
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Oct 7, 2010 16:19
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c355n4 posted:Yup, that is the stereotypical spot for our older imprezas. Plastic bumper rubs the metal part there wearing thru the paint. I guarantee, the rust you don't see is far worse. As stated earlier, if you plan on ditching it later. Just live with it. Rock on. At what point did they fix the issue? Or have they?
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Oct 9, 2010 00:39
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infrared35 posted:Rock on. At what point did they fix the issue? Or have they? Imprezas since at least the 2002 model year have had two sized galvanized steel for body panels so they should be much more resistant to rust.
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Oct 9, 2010 00:45
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I'm just curious what you guys think of this car: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2037332 I can't decide if it's a good deal or a terrible catastrophe waiting to happen. quote:The only issue I’ve ever had is having intercooler pipe clamps pop off at night from the higher boost pressure.
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Oct 9, 2010 01:46
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