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Slung Blade posted:Awesome find Jovial. I've looked into that, but I'm not actually using the track as a real anvil. I'm not doing any forging at the moment - I'm just tapping sheet metal into shape and flattening out some nails. The railroad track is absolutely perfect for that.
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Aug 23, 2010 05:05
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Slung Blade posted:Awesome find Jovial.  I was funny finishing the forge was like buying my first plasma cutter. But instead of cutting, we put every piece of steel we could find in there and bent it. Here is a small picture of how she turned out.  Also kind of metal work related, I finished the handle for a kitchen knife blank I had sitting around. I can't wait to start making my own blades and doing some tempering too. 
evilhat fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 23, 2010 |
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Aug 23, 2010 05:28
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Do all of you guys doing this live on a huge plot of land/middle of nowhere? This would be a fun hobby but it seems like doing it in a yard/garage in the suburbs would piss the hell out of neighbors within half a block (it's very loud).
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Aug 23, 2010 06:37
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hayden. posted:Do all of you guys doing this live on a huge plot of land/middle of nowhere? This would be a fun hobby but it seems like doing it in a yard/garage in the suburbs would piss the hell out of neighbors within half a block (it's very loud). That is a good point, though. I live in a pretty rural area, so there's no one around to be bothered by my hammering
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Aug 23, 2010 07:00
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jovial_cynic posted:I've looked into that, but I'm not actually using the track as a real anvil. I'm not doing any forging at the moment - I'm just tapping sheet metal into shape and flattening out some nails. The railroad track is absolutely perfect for that. Oh yeah, that would be perfect for that. Curves, trough, a little flat part, right on man. Evilhat, I love that forge. The clamped firebrick is loving genius, did you come up with that yourself? As for an anvil, if you can't find any track or large diameter round bar, there's always this: http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/4x4.html   If I was in the market for a small, inexpensive portable anvil, I think I'd just try to find some 6" round bar or something. Turn it on its side for a horn, leave it on its face for an anvil. Good for sinking into a stand for a knife making anvil too. Good job on that handle by the way, what's it made out of? I chose to live in the country specifically for my hobby. As a kind of ineffectual duck-squeezer, it gnaws at me that my commute is so long, but there's no way I could afford a place closer to work that would give me the space to practice smithing in the way that I want. I've seen people who do it in their garages though. A little insulation and good ventilation helps a lot. Keep in mind you'll be limited to how far you can grow, what with a tool collection, scrap pile, fresh iron pile, fuel dump, etc. HOAs are the enemy too.
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Aug 23, 2010 07:25
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I live in the burbs, but so far have forgiving neighbors, but I am still limited to what I can do here. That being said, I haven't done much work at home lately. I'm also into amateur radio now, so between my "dream antenna farm" I want to erect and metalworking, I really need to get my rear end a good job so I can afford to buy a large property somewhere out of the way. evilhat, I see you claim to be in TX. I'm in DE. I doubt your driving out this way anytime soon, but I got some railroad track, you are welcome to a piece. In other news, last Friday I had a chance to use 12 foot magnesium burning bars hooked up to an oxygen bank running at 120PSI. I had to cut up some train axles that are nearly 10" thick. The burning bar/lance is lit with a cutting torch, and after that the magnesium burns sustaining the heat necessary for oxygen cutting. I am not exaggerating one bit when I say, never before have I personally used such a destructive force. The amount of molten slag flying in the air, and sitting in a puddle in the ground was really something to behold. I felt like I was near a loving volcano, and I loved every minute of it. After burning 4 of those 12 foot rods however, it was time to get out of that full leather gear and drink some water.
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Aug 23, 2010 11:34
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A short length of railcar axle would make a pretty bitchin anvil. Just sayin'
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Aug 23, 2010 16:34
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I had fun today. I spent $2300 of my boss's money on some welding supplies and a Lincoln LN25 wire feeder to hook up to our Lincoln Ranger 305D (Diesel driven CC/CV welder).  Going to be using that bad boy to weld dumpsters outside using .045" self shielding flux core wire. This LN25 is a really neat unit. It doesn't require any control cables to hook to the welding machine. It works be sensing the voltage and current in the welding circuit. This also means not only does it work normally with Constant Voltage power supplies, it'll also work with Constant Current stick welding supplies too! (However the CV power supply still works better for wire feeding, especially if you are doing code quality work.) The wire feeder was about $1800, and the gun I chose is a self shielding flux core gun (IE it has no support for gas which means it weighs less and isn't as bulky) and that ran about $300. I ran a few practice beads. My god this wire feeder and machine are a nice setup, best FCAW setup I've ever used, except for the 3 phase machine at welding school. 
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Aug 23, 2010 21:14
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Man dv6speed you better mean Denton,TX and not Delaware! I'm pretty sure you mean Delaware too  Cool new toy man that's really gonna put down some metal fast and deep. Does anyone needs some .035 ER70S-6 3# spools? I got some free ones laying around from work. Thank's Slung it was designed on the fly with no plans, I bought 10 bricks and played tetris till it looked acceptable. But I think someone else makes a clamped style forge. It also has some 1" Insboard 23 HD inside for efficiency. The handle material for the knife is East Indian Rosewood. I can't wait for this weekend to start practicing making blanks. Can anyone recommend a good flux for forge welding?
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Aug 24, 2010 03:50
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evilhat posted:Can anyone recommend a good flux for forge welding?
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Aug 24, 2010 04:14
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dv6speed posted:anhydrous borax Yeah, this. Borax is available in the laundry aisle at your local supermarket. If it's not anhydrous already, simply put it in the oven on an old cookie sheet and bake it for a while. Exact instructions are available online somewhere.
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Aug 24, 2010 16:48
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Yup, thirding. I've forge-welded a couple times, and all we used was spoonfuls of 21-mule-team Boraxo (or however many mules it is, I can never remember). It looks totally awesome, too. Take pictures! When you first strike the work pieces together to set the weld, molten glowing flux sprays out!
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Aug 24, 2010 19:56
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I want this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdCRCcwDeKQ
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Aug 25, 2010 06:38
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RealKyleH posted:I want this Holy poo poo. That is amazing. I love watching CNC things turn metal.
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Aug 25, 2010 12:28
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That is seriously impressive. Any idea how accurate it is? The motions look extremely complicated.
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Aug 25, 2010 17:56
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It has resolution to the .0001 so I am betting the answer is as accurate as your setup can get.
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Aug 25, 2010 18:02
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Manual machining of pistons and early NC (punchcard?) systems viewable in this vid
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Sep 2, 2010 02:35
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RealKyleH posted:Manual machining of pistons and early NC (punchcard?) systems viewable in this vid What vid?
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Sep 2, 2010 10:09
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RealKyleH posted:Manual machining of pistons and early NC (punchcard?) systems viewable in this vid Come on RealKyleH repost the link, I wanna see this punchcard nc. So with I tried making my first pattern welded blade this weekend. Forge welding is fun and a great workout on the arms, I really enjoyed it. I need to work on the basic's tho I have a ton of slag inclusion in my welds. I have no first hand knowledge just some reading. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here is before etching, in a crude knife shape.  And here is after etching. I lost the top piece in the etch/polish. oh well live and learn. 
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Sep 7, 2010 03:39
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Oops sorry I got caught up in a sexy weekend. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPBO8z4qPrU&feature=player_embedded
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Sep 7, 2010 03:43
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RealKyleH posted:I want this The programming for this must be insane. If I had a few hundred million laying around I would have a workshop full of this stuff just to play with. I'd probably rent/loan it out to others just to see it actually put to good use because otherwise they would sit around all day making the weirdest shapes I could come up with just to see if it could do it.
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Sep 7, 2010 17:24
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I'm interning at an engineering firm right now and the other day I was put in charge of the shop. None of the engineers can run most of the stuff, and my passing familiarity with CNC equipment puts me well ahead of them. I've got a manual lathe, a Bridgeport with EZTrack NC package and a Haas VF4 with 4th axis setup as well as assorted smaller stuff like an NC press brake and waterjet table. I've got no problem getting everything running and doing CAM and CAD stuff to get parts made, but I have no idea where to start on choosing tooling and deciding things like depth of cut on the mill and lathe, travel and stock RPM for the lathe or setting up cutting tools in the holders. Any recommendations for books that cover those topics while not dealing with the basics?
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Sep 11, 2010 04:40
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henne posted:I'm interning at an engineering firm right now and the other day I was put in charge of the shop. None of the engineers can run most of the stuff, and my passing familiarity with CNC equipment puts me well ahead of them. I've got a manual lathe, a Bridgeport with EZTrack NC package and a Haas VF4 with 4th axis setup as well as assorted smaller stuff like an NC press brake and waterjet table. I've got no problem getting everything running and doing CAM and CAD stuff to get parts made, but I have no idea where to start on choosing tooling and deciding things like depth of cut on the mill and lathe, travel and stock RPM for the lathe or setting up cutting tools in the holders. Any recommendations for books that cover those topics while not dealing with the basics?
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Sep 11, 2010 05:22
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I got a pretty good job offer and start Monday as a machinist. Wish me luck.henne posted:I have no idea where to start on choosing tooling and deciding things like depth of cut on the mill and lathe, travel and stock RPM for the lathe or setting up cutting tools in the holders. Any recommendations for books that cover those topics while not dealing with the basics? Call a tool rep. They will provide all of this info and provide you with lots of information about what is out there. Valenite, Kennametal, whoever, but I'd start with whatever company you plan on buying most of the tooling for your shop from. Thats said, this should be your starting point: Dongsmith posted:I've got a copy of Machinery's Handbook and it is chock full of charts and tables and graphs. It's probably almost exactly what you are looking for, as it is way over my head. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 05:42
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What would something like this typically cost to have done:some website posted:1 inch bar stock. I'm looking to run a fuel-injection conversion on my Datsun 510, but I don't have the tools to make some of the parts I need. http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm Scroll down to "Injector Bosses" to get an idea. If I needed four of them made, what would the cost typically be, and is anybody in this thread set up to sell their services? * edit: Alternatively, I could go this route if it becomes cost prohibitive for me: Plumbing compression fittings are the cheapest way to go. The fittings in the picture are 3/8 compression fitting on one side and 1/2" pipe fitting on the other. These can be soldered or brazed to the intake or you can tap a large steel nut with a 1/2" pipe tap and weld that to a steel manifold. (http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/partslist.htm) jovial_cynic fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Sep 15, 2010 |
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Sep 15, 2010 20:52
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jovial_cynic posted:What would something like this typically cost to have done: If 1018 or 4139 is fine with you, I will make them and just charge shipping. That just looks like a 45 degree saw cut. Looks like less then an hour to make all 4. Anyone ever bought material thru Kelly Cupples for blade smithing? He has some outrageous prices but he wont answer any of my e-mails. I'm looking for some 15n20 and 1080. Also some powdered metal. http://elliscustomknifeworks.hightemptools.com/steel.html Is were I got the info but looks like the list is from 8-22-09
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Sep 16, 2010 04:02
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evilhat posted:If 1018 or 4139 is fine with you, I will make them and just charge shipping. Yeah - that metal is fine. Sweet deal on just charging shipping. Let me return the favor: pick a basic figurine from my shop and I'll make it and send it your way. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2467764 *** For that matter, if I sent a gasket for a template, could you also cut out a manifold flange? And if you want it to get really interesting, I know quite a few folks who would be interested in buying complete intake manifolds and would pay a decent price for them. If you or anyone else is interested, let me know. I can get exact specs and generate some business for anyone interested in taking up this kind of job. jovial_cynic fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 04:54
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Taught myself how to use MasterCAM in about 10 minutes, took like two days to get this drat part running though. First part made at my new job on the VMC with MasterCam. I love my new job, its extremely interesting and pays great/ Its a 4 man business run by an 80 year old engineer who is building things I don't understand. There are very few thins that once explained to me I still do not understand but god drat I guess microwave devices to detect heartbeats through walls on a HMMV are one of those things that I cant totally grasp the principles of yet. Also should expand my aluminum welding skills. I also get to work whenever I want and have a key. Unfortunately my school work and girlfriend keep me from working as much as I want. Girlfriend is more fun and school is more important, and no Susie I didn't just add that because I know you lurk my posts like a creeper. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Sep 23, 2010 |
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Sep 23, 2010 12:35
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I'm sure a lot of you guys hang out in AI as a matter of course, but just in case you missed it: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3336130 Only one page so far, some bloke in the UK restoring a camper van. Point is, he's got some really nice ironwork in there; I guess he makes ornate gates in his spare time, and he's just built a great big steel rotisserie for the van chassis so he can roll it over and work on the underneath/roof easily. Worth a gander.
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Sep 25, 2010 04:52
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I saw the thread where he found the van, I thought it was write off at first. But hey, looks like he's got the skill, and the van isn't as bad off as I thought. I like his gates.
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Sep 25, 2010 07:10
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Been a long time since I've done any hammer work. Winter's approaching, so hopefully that will change soon. My shop's a bit of a mess.  So I made some really crappy hooks that I can hang a bar off of, and get my grinders off the floor. The little one has virtually no clearance between the body and disk guard, but at least I can jam the 3/8th rod into the handle and hold it up that way.  Quick little experiment to see if I could make a decent circle in a flat bar. Result? uh, sorta. I think I need a mandrel or something to do it properly.  I also finally got around to sanding those letter openers I made about a month ago. gently caress this year is going fast.  These are for specific people, so I thought I'd stamp their initials in the spike head. 
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Oct 3, 2010 02:38
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A buddy of mine at work gave me this neat old bolt he found at an abandoned silvermine. Totally useless to him, and the nut is rusted to the bolt. It took some heat and some 'persuasion' but I got them apart.  I should have ground off the threads first, but oh well, gently caress it.   This thing is hard. drat hard. Not quite drill-rod hard, but harder than the spikes. I'm hoping it's 60-70 points of carbon. Polished lightly after quenching.  gently caress it's hard to get a good picture in a shed lit by a forge and a 1000w worklight.   First try at tempering it.  Ground down.   Perfect? Hell no. Not too bad for some nerd in his backyard with a beltsander though.   I also did two more spikes. These things are selling like crazy in the art-coop.   Not polished yet though.
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Oct 5, 2010 06:33
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I missed this whole Slung Blade now has a shop thing. I guess I must have taken a break from the forums. On a somewhat related note, I still have the materials to make a crucible furnace... 2 years later and no furnace. What the gently caress is wrong with me? I guess I need the threat of violence or something to get off my rear end. Oh and yeah, I don't work at the scrap yard anymore if you hadn't figured it out. gently caress that guy, for reasons I don't want to get into on a public forum. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Oct 5, 2010 |
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Oct 5, 2010 07:04
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If anyone is going to be near Atlanta, Georgia around November 2-4, check this out. You can register for free until October 29.
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Oct 5, 2010 18:10
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Slung Blade, that carbon-steel bolt knife looks pretty good. One thing I was taught in knifemaking class is that a small detail adds a lot to a knife: try putting a ricasso on one.  In this picture, the upper blade has a nice gradually-curving ricasso. I've also done sharp little ones, just a little semi-circle cut into the knife body to separate the blade from the flat non-sharp handle part. Also in both of the shown knives, you see a sharply-defined transition from the blade to the handle and spine. Doing that requires that the flat of the blade be very very flat; if it's slightly lumpy, the transition from blade to spine will be wavy and uneven. Which means that it shows off how consistent and even your blademaking technique is. Anyway of course you're going for more of a rough, hand-finished look, so I'd never say you should or shouldn't do either of these things, but you might find it fun to try it out a bit.
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Oct 5, 2010 22:09
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Ah, ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the tip. Whenever I get around to making blades totally flat, I will do that. Kinda hard to make them nice and even when the original stock is also the handle. Well, I mean, I suppose it's possible, but then the blade would be more like a triangle looking at it from the top. What kind of sanders and grinders do you use for your blades? e: nevermind, you already answered that question previously 
Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 03:08
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Haha yeah actually I think there's a lot of 'knifemakers' out there who are doing entirely stock-removal with grinders. So I like the idea that with a forged knife, there's something to it that informs you it's forged rather than just a piece of stock you ground the poo poo out of. The knives in that picture have small tangs but you can definitely still do it with a full tang or even a fully metal handle. The key is that you want a clear transition between the handle and the blade - but not TOO sharp, because a really hard crease in the metal is a weak point where it is likely to snap if abused. So just a definite transition with a little bit of curve to it. There are of course a thousand and one different choices you can make with a blade, I find it fascinating. I don't remember if I recommended before, but I have this book, and I think it's great. Definitely one of those books-written-by-a-craftsman where the guy clearly didn't have a ghost-writer; the editing is alright but you still get a lot of dense sections, a certain amount of train-of-thought organization, etc. But it's got chapters on every step of blademaking, including handles and sheathes, loads of very clear drawings, an extensive discussion of steel alloys, basically every step from tools to finished blades. Oh and when I was talking about ricassos earlier, that little curved cut back into a ricasso is called a choil, I had to look it up because I'd forgotten the term. Here's a deceptively simple-looking full-tang blade with a very pronounced choil:  And here's a loving beautiful, simple little full-tang blade with a really small choil that I think makes the entire design really pull together:  This one doesn't have much visible transition from the sharpened edge and the spine, but that little choil transforms it from just a piece of metal with an edge ground into it, into a deliberately designed knife. It also lets you sharpen the blade all the way back, without having to pick an uncertain point where the edge stops but the narrowing of the steel keeps going back a little bit.
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Oct 6, 2010 04:41
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My wife wanted a cradle for the garden hose, and her criteria was "pretty" and "has stars." So I made this today out of some old bed frame, some 1/4x1/2" rod and some 16 gauge sheet:   I think it turned out pretty well for scrap metal.
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Oct 9, 2010 23:52
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Quick metal cutting question. I need to cut a bunch of 1x1 square tube for an upcoming project. I will need to make angled cuts along with straight ones. I have a pretty heavy duty miter saw, can I put circular metal cutting blade on it or do I have to get a saw designed for cutting metal? It's a Dewalt but a few years old (like 15) and I can't find the manual. The tubing is basic steel, not aluminium. Thanks.
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Oct 10, 2010 02:45
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It'll probably work fine if you can find a blade that's the right size with the right arbor. It'll gunk up the shrouds with the steel dust and blade ablations though. So I wouldn't use it more than a couple times. That poo poo is hard to get off once it cakes on. Jovial, cool stuff man. Still using O/A for welding?
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Oct 10, 2010 05:11
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